Ryantzer wrote: ↑Fri Jul 17, 2020 4:50 pm
Your oil system has nothing to do with the extended cranking you're experiencing. I would start by testing the coolant temperature sensor and checking it's wiring.
Update: problem solved! It WAS the PCV valve. I was wondering why a previous code scan was reading bank 2 system lean or something like that.
I took both of, the one under the air filter was still jiggly, and I spray cleaned it. The one on the battery side had no jiggle. I cleaned it too, but it would still only move a little bit. Went and got 1 new one as a test, and the jiggle was significantly noticeable. Installed it right away on a hot engine, and made a few stops. Cranked up right away each time.
I had already did both coolant temperature sensors to no avail. Fuel filter, spark plugs, etc. I think the oil change and adding seafoam helped by slightly clearing whatever debris was inside temporarily. Hence why it always seemed to work fine the first 1,000 or so miles after an oil change. Then the hard starting would come back especially after warmed and sitting awhile. But now it was getting to where it would be hard to start as soon as I shut off the engine.
Sorry for answering my own question lol. But if anyone hasn’t changed their PCV valves (there’s 2), do it. I had already changed mine 80,000 miles ago...but I just forgot to think of it because it’s simply not in the manual as a maintenance item. But it will drive you crazy trying to figure out.
I have a Nissan Maxima that had given me the same trouble for years too, I changed the PCV valve but can’t recall if it helped right away. But I’m going to change it again as well. Glad I didn’t have to go the leaky injector or fuel pressure regulator route (which I previously brought and returned as it didn’t make sense that it would start right away when cold or sometimes and not others).