This cold weather is wreaking havoc on my Q-weird coincidences-need some replies

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Q-less
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Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2004 12:01 pm
Car: 1999 Honda Accord Coupe EX

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I went to a play the other day and as I got off the exit ramp the Q started to idle funny at the red light, then it stalled. Just before it did I noticed the message 'low charge battery' or something. Great, I'm like 45 minutes from home in a small snow storm with ice all over the road. I crank her up and continue to the theatre. After the show (couldn't really enjoy it as bad scenarios regarding the Q ran through my head) I headed back on the interstate after more surging and headed back home.

Sidestory - some bunghole is driving below the speed limit in the middle lane and the left lane is covered in ice, so I flash my lights as I approach him and obviously they let blind people get licenses wherever the bunghole was from, nothing, no courteous lane change to the right lane as I think it is against the law to pass on the right....why should I get a ticket for wanting to pass someone going below the speed limit. Aaargh, so I wip it in the right lane and pass him on the right get back in front of him and slow down thinking I will force him into his right lane. Nothing the guy slows down to 40 mph with me and resumes with his stubbornness. I digress and feel ashamed for stooping to his level feeling secure though as I see the state line just ahead...sucka.

I get to Advance auto to get my battery checked and it comes back 'bad battery' so I skedattle over to Sears to get a DieHard battery just as they close. I buy a $75 battery and they want to charge an additional $10 to install it and I have to wait for the technician to get back from wherever the hell is to do it. Screw it, I go buy a 12 piece craftsman tool set to do it and I get to keep it, so fooey on you Sears. I put the new battery in and expect ot see my Airbag light to flash but it doesn't weird, anyway. I start my car with a fresh battery and pull out and the Q stalls right in front of the garage bay doors and I'm sure the tech is laughing at me while the door closes behind me. WTF, then I think the weird interference I heard a week ago may have something to do with it....or maybe it wasn't interference at all maybe the dreaded buzzing from a dying fuel pump. But, then why the split second message of low charge. I do hear a buzzing now and am convinced it is not interference as it is intermittent. How can a fuel pump flicker and not just die rendering my car undriveable. Could it be the popular poor MAF connection....or all above?

I am taking of work 4 days at the end of the month and am doing the valve covers, spark plugs, manipulating the MAF connection for a better one. Should I go ahead and find a fuel pump and be ready for the current one to completely die. Please don't tell me I need to start saving to a $350+ alternator. Help me pinpoint the culprit please

I plan on taking lots of pics on everything I do during the four days and hope to post some in-depth DIYers for everyone.


DAEDALUS
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Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:50 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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Sounds like a complex multitude of issues might be going on there. Alternator first. Measure the battery voltage with the car off. Should be about 12.6V. Then start the car and measure the voltage again at idle with all electrical accessories on (lights, etc.). Should be 13-15V. If it's anything else then the alt could be going out or maybe there's a bad connection somewhere.

Q-less
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Car: 1999 Honda Accord Coupe EX

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Can I check that with a WallyWorld voltohmeter?

DAEDALUS
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Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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As far as everything else it could be MAF or fuel. But check the alt first. All bets are off if system voltage isn't sufficient.

Q-less
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Car: 1999 Honda Accord Coupe EX

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Should I drive it under its urrent condition? I'll go get a voltohmeter first thing tomorrow and check the alternator. IS thst the correct term - voltohmeter?

Q-less
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Car: 1999 Honda Accord Coupe EX

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Daedalus: There is an alternator on Ebay right now http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WD1V should I buy this one, the price seems right or can I get mine rebuilt at an alternator repair shop for way less. Just thinking ahead. Please noone buy this until I find out tomorrow morning!!

DAEDALUS
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Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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Cheap multimeters can be fine if they're fairly accurate. Off by .1-.2V but consistent is fine for this. I wouldn't drive it. Regardless of what it is, sounds like you could get stranded. Voltage spikes aren't good for circuits. Driving with a bad pump isn't good for the controller.

Q-less
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Car: 1999 Honda Accord Coupe EX

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I've also had those strange gurgling sounds when I first start it up. Is that normal in the cold season? I remember another Niconian found out his raiator had a pinhole in it when he heard this.

This is depressing, I really like my car and it has been trouble free up until now.

Q-less
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Ok, I'll update you tomorrow so look for me if you can. Thanks!!

DAEDALUS
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Make sure the reservoir bottle has enough coolant in it and the hoses to the bottle are hooked up right and in good shape. When the car warms up the coolant expands and excess pressure is bled to the bottle. When the coolant cools it contracts and coolant from the bottle is allowed to be sucked back into the system. If the bottle is low or if there's a leak in the reservoir hose, the system will suck in air bubbles that cause the gurgling you hear.

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vicQ45
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this same thing happened to me driving from san antonio to houston about 2 months ago. i was on teh freeway going ~75 and it jsut shuts off and displays "low battery charge". after coastinng for about 2 seconds it fired back on and then off again. then off. then onn. i got off the freeway and pulled over and teh motor could hardly stay running. i disconnected the battery terminals and cleaned them and the posts off with a can of CRC electric parts cleaner. it worked fine after than and hasn't done anything like it since..i'm crossing my fingers it had nothing to do with the fuel pump because i'm having my chain guides done in about a week.

Q45tech
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Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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The proper battery voltage to denote full charge varies with the batteries internal temperature. An important fact to know.

Yes a 0.1 volt matters especially in cold conditions so a junko VOM is a nono. Spend at least $20-$30...........ebay has some decent to quality ones.

Peak hold is great for reading MAF [1.12>4.44 volts], same with min/max function............learn to measure alterntor ripple [the ac component riding on the dc voltage ~~< 100 millivolts on 13.6 volts to check alternator rectifier diodes.

Accurate low resistance [injectors 12 ohms] is the most difficult part as this may vary with VOM and its battery condition........at least a 5% [+-2.5%]accuracy +- 0.3 ohms.

A 10 ampere internal shunt is valuable in fuel pump, coil, injector, fan motor [low speed].............an external 25-50 ampere shunt for big electric circuits.

I keep thinking of making a tiny digital display that would read multiple resistive sensors with a rotary switch: head temp, coolant temp, transmission temp, diff temp,......... fuel, oil, coolant pressure............tps voltage, etc

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JT_MONEY_2004
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Car: 1990 Q45, Pearl

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Lack of fuel will display that warning u saw. When i was replacing my fuel filter on my '90 i pulled the fuel pump fuse and as the car died that warning popped up in display window... that's the only time i've seen it personally.

Q-less
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Ok, The battery with ignition turned off is 12.62 and running at idle is 14.58

The whine isn't high pitched like others have described, rather like engine noise coming in through the rear speakers and it just started doing it during the past week.

If the car started to idle funny, wouldn't that give me a bad reading on the VOM since the car is trying to shut off? IT didn't do it though while I was testing it. Come to think of it the lights never went dim or no flickers like im used to on other cars when the akternator is dying...I think advance just tried to make a sale (I don't think their tests ever gave me a 'good battery' in the past. I could understand the low charge warning with no fuel in the system with the car trying to shut off while it is moving, there should be a message for the fuel system.

Can Joe get me a fuel pump and filter delivered by friday to east tennessee? I'll just add that to the DIY projects planned.

Q-less
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Can I just add water to the full mark on the resevoir until I do a flush?

Q-less
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I'm pretty sure its fuel related now. Could the fuel pump relay intermittantly go out and can that be tested as well?

96Qowner
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I think I recall that someone had pulled a fuel pump apart for signs of failure and only noticed corrosion on the rotor - no real failure. I don't recall if it was also commutator. If commutator, perhaps it could cause that buzzing in the sound system?

Anybody know?
Modified by 96Qowner at 11:21 AM 12/22/2004

DAEDALUS
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Joe can overnight it I'm sure, if it's in stock, but there's a cutoff time, maybe noon his time? Not sure how the holidays might play into delivery time/schedule. You can add water to the reservoir; it won't change the ratio much.The relays usually start sticking when they go out. Never heard of a relay causing such weirdness. They can be tested, but a one-time test may not uncover an intermittent problem.

Q-less
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True...I'll go call Joe and take a look at the relay just in case. Can I remove it and put a charge on it so it will 'pop' a few times to see if it sticks?

Q-less
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IT couldn't be the fuel regulator since I have pressure to start the car and start driving until the car is under more load right?

I want to check the FPCU just in case but there is three types in the FSM SEF882J, SEF883J, and SEF884J. How do I know which one to test for, I see no markings on the unit itself to compare it to?

Q-less
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Ok, now im almost positive its the pump as the FCPU appears to be fine. Called Joe to get the pump, filter, and o-rings about $270 shipped overnight. Now one last thing, I know a few of you are driving around not knowing how much gas is in your tank because something was bent. How do I not do that? I'll add that note in the DIY with pictures.

Q-less
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Moderators: Since this is no longer general, and the problem is pinpointed, feel free to move this to the Mechanical Forum.

Thanks Everyone!!

911/Q45
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1996 Porsche Turbo

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If you take out the back seat and rear deck and remove and install your pump from above instead of the trunk, you won't bend the float for the sending unit.
Modified by 911/Q45 at 11:37 AM 12/22/2004

96Qowner
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JT_MONEY_2004
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CherryPoppinQ45 wrote:The whine isn't high pitched like others have described, rather like engine noise coming in through the rear speakers and it just started doing it during the past week.
Is the sound actually playing thru the stereo system or just coming from that area?

Q-less
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I have come to the conclusion it is not interference as I would hear other interference as well such as the horn, turn signals, heater. I had a car once with bad stereo install and heard all the above. My stereo installl was better than professional (because I did it haha).

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vicQ45
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yep... guess it's time for a new fuel pump for my Q as well . what exactly are the sounds that you hear when the pump is going? when i have about >1/2 a tank then i hear a sizzle and a slight hum from the trunk. when theres about <1/2 a tank i just hear a humming noise. are those the sounds of a near death fuel pump?

EQwhipD
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Car: 1994 Q45 (Totalled)/ 1994 Q45a (SOLD) / 1990 Z32TT

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Vic,Once you start hearing a humming sound, that is your car begging you toi replace your fuel pump. The opportunity cost of waiting is way too high than trying to save a couple of bucks. I just ordered my fuel pump from Joe for my '94, and it came out to be a little over 200 bucks. That is a good deal if one calculates the costs of towing a car with a dead fuel pump, and even more the costs of a fried FPCU. That's when the big bucks start coming out of your bank account. It hurt me too to get the fuel pump, but you have to do what you have to do! Good luck, and please read the testimonials of fuel pump failures using the "search" option. Also pleas eread the instructions of how to replace your own fuel pump by reading "tangalora"s account and the directions just given to me by Wes in my "94 Fuel Pump Diagram" thread just put up this morning.- EQwhipD

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vicQ45
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Thanks EQ! i'll do it this weekend.. now i know what to give myself for christmas! i was just looking over tangalora's guide today.


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