Thinking of getting another Q- need advice...

[jmatas]

I'm planning on giving my I30 to my wife and getting myself something new. Currently either looking at a '94ish Q, or a '99 Audi A4 Quattro. Anyway, since I've been ignoring the Q posts for the last two years, I need some Q buying advice. The particular one I've found is a 1994 t model with 81K miles and looks to be in good shape (it's on ebay right now if any one is interested).What can anyone tell me about the 94s? Ultimately I want a Pearl 94t, but this green one might have to do.What can I expect, performance wise, to be different from my old 1991 (no mods)? How long can I expect good things from a 1994 with 81K? Did 1994 have the timing chain problems of the earlier models? And trannys?I'd definitely bring it to T3 (I miss going there) for a once over before buying.Thanks for any advice!

[maxnix]

Take it to T-3 and they will inspect for as much as you will compensate them. Probably start with fluids after it passes visual inspection. Chain guides are not a problem. Go to a dealer (with VIN) and inspect service records. Omissions are big no-nos.

Might check other sites like autotrader.com and cars.com, besides local classifieds on the web. I think the best cars are offered by private parties. Budget $3K-$5K for maintainence even if the car is perfect. Third party extended warranties are also an option.

[greg_atlanta]

It is funny how all the ones for sale in Atlanta are green.

Timing chain is non-issue for '94 model. Still a good idea to add a trans cooler (about $150 installed).

A '94 T model has HICAS steering, so be sure and change PS fluid right away. ('95 and up T models do not have HICAS)

Is the car local? I'd be leery of eBay. Just a used car lot in the sky (in most cases).

The engine has slightly less power, but the big difference is the gear ratios are less aggressive. But starts in 1st on normal starts, so you're really only missing out on the fast take-off when the '91 drops into 1st.

[PalmerWMD]

The 94 and up have a bunch of reliabilty improvements over the 90-93's

-New style timing chain guides-Better cooling-transmission reliability improvements.-First gear start (started in 93)

Other differences:

-Are a bit heavier-Slightly less power (won't feel slower especialy around town vs a 90/92 due to fisrt gear start)-Lots more features-Look Newer/ritzier outside-interior freshend up as well, looks a bit more modern and less teutonic, friendlier.

I would consider putting in the Chip or the 4.08 rear diff to more than make up any performance differnece vs a 90-93.

Fred...

[maxnix]

Greg,

My 1995 Q45t has HICAS. I think the 1996 do also. It wasn't dropped until the Cima second generation 1997 Q45s (Q41).

[DenverQ]

I have a 94 T and I love it!!!!!! I have had minor problems but nothing the extened warranty didnt fix (cost 1200 taken as payment 75 bucks a month with a $50 decutable) I am in the middle of replacing the the worn out suspension and rubber parts.

I bought mine with 94k and have never looked back its been the greatest car I have owned, my friend is now looking at getting one because he likes mine so much lol

anyways I would say go for and definatly get the warranty it was a life saver for me!

[Q45tech]

As I pointed out earlier some where, we have a 94Q customer with 255,000 miles [which he acquired at 60k] in the 5 years he put on 195,000 miles . The car is in great shape but he is not very demanding of handling. He gets about a year on Michelin Pilots and brakes, 2.5 years on shocks. alignment every 6 months , complete annual fluid exchanges and transmission flush every 9 months.As best as I can tell he spends less than 8 cents per mile [$3000 per year] for maintenance and repairs...tires, brakes, suspension, oil changes once per month [3-4k].We are setting up a diff change for the next 60k service.

[jmatas]

The car I'm looking at is a one owner, all books and records (supposedly), and well maintained...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...77646

It's a local Atlanta car.I did find one in St. Louis w/ 67K miles and black/black for around the same price. It may be worth it to fly and drive back, but not worth the hassle of buying a car sight unseen.

My other option is a 1999 Audi A4 Quattro with around 37K miles. I'd like to have the 2.8, because from what I hear the 1.8t is a slug. I would spend about $7-8K more, and get a much newer car, but I figure would get about the same trouble free life out of either.

By the way, what would a JWT ECU cost for a 1994?

Thanks again!

[jpalm]

Mmmmmm....thats a good lookin car!:D

[maxnix]

Since this car is a replica of my 1995 Q45t (although it has more miles), it appeals to me. With six days on the auction, I would research the hell out of it. The main thing I would want to know about is fluid replacements. Do that and maybe some suspension work, a transmission cooler and you should be good to go. Check the operation of all accessories, sunroof, seat heaters, etc.

If you have $12K+ cash in your pocket, you should be in good shape.

[ardvarkus]

I like the 'no taxes' part.

Are they stupid, or do they assume you are stupid?

Near as I know, everybody pays sales tax to their state when they register it. Period. Car dealer MAY collect the tax for you, and submit it on your behalf. (I guess that is what their 'documentation fee covers'?)

Sounds clean though. Very lucky it is local. I'd say with T3 looking, you'll might get your mileage out of the warranty. (But read the warranty VERY carefully.) $700 for 12/12 is pretty pricey.

Adam

[AZhitman]

Greg,

My 1995 Q45t has HICAS. I think the 1996 do also. It wasn't dropped until the Cima second generation 1997 Q45s (Q41).

OK, I'm confused. My 95Q45t doesn't have HICAS, and I was advised that the 94t was the last 4WS Q built.

Was it an added option above and beyond the 't' package?

[greg_atlanta]

I like the 'no taxes' part.

Are they stupid, or do they assume you are stupid?

Near as I know, everybody pays sales tax to their state when they register it. Period.

I've never bought a private party car in Georgia, but I'm pretty sure it's not taxable.

Cars bought from dealers are taxed at normal sales tax rates. I live in Fulton county (where most of Atlanta is) and if I buy a car in another county, I still have to pay Fulton county sales tax of 7% (other counties vary).

My brother in Virginia said he pays a flat 3% tax on car sales whether through dealer or private party.

Guess it's a little different everywhere. Gotta consider the tax rates.

[greg_atlanta]

By the way, what would a JWT ECU cost for a 1994?

I think it's $500-600?? You have to pay a deposit if you don't ship the existing ECU.

Not sure if getting ECU only and not the TCU is a good idea?? Maybe others can clarify.

ECU opens up a lot of power on the high end, and TCU moves shift points beyond redline. So you're not getting the full benefit of the ECU without the TCU too.

Car looks nice, though the wood dash kit and quickie gold package kills me!!

:uzi wood dash

gold package :aug2

[jmatas]

Quote »Car looks nice, though the wood dash kit and quickie gold package kills me!![/quote]

My thoughts exactly. That leads me to wonder how I could remove that wood without doing too much damage. I suppose I could replace it with carbon fiber, which I'm partial to, but that would probably look pretty out of place in a Q. Oh well, time to wake up the designer in me.

As for the taxes, I'll ask the guy- I'm meeting him at noon. Wish me luck.

Went and looked at a 1999 A4 w/ 37K miles yesterday... total POS. It had wear in places that a 3 year old car should not. Plus it started to rain as I was going to test drive- that was God telling me not to buy a German car. :icesangel

[Aus94Q45]

That 94 Q will run the hell out of the 2.8 Audi with or without the ECU! Mine has 88K miles and is not driven hard, but still requires attention due to age. Think "under-plenum hoses". Although this should be about a once in 100K mi. service, the age of the car and heat exposure in that area likely has the hoses near the end or their useful life. You may want to ask T3 for an estm. on that job. Some of the guys here have done that one themselves. Unless you have an entire weekend to spend, have the tools, and a huge amount of patience, you will probably be happier leaving this one to the pros. Provided the car has not been wrecked and the transmission fluid has been changed a couple of times, that should be a fine car. Mine is excellent. I have never had a paint job hold up so well for an 8+ year old car in Texas. The interior and components all look great. Awesome ride for the bucks.

[maxnix]

Yeah, I have the wood application on mine, and it does not quite match the original. Nor does it fit the instrument and gauge openings exactly correctly. I wonder if any of them do. There are also some gaps where it does not adhere properly to concave surfaces and a slight buckle above the speedometer hidden by the wheel. One guy (Jason) who posts here owns Burtman industries, sellers of such kits, and I hope he will post some methods for removing such appliqués and their adhesives to restore the dash to original condition.

That being said, I think it is too bad Infiniti didn't offer it as an option to suck more sales away from Lexus back then. Since it doesn't interfere with function, it's removal is way on the back burner.

The gold package put on my car included the raised Infiniti "omega" on the grill, the door handles, and the Q45t and antenna base in back. The front omega has worn mostly away, the door handles appear almost a burnished bronzed as the gold coating is mostly worn and polished away. The rear is still intact. I personally don't mind the look of the gold on the pearl and green cars, but it is non-functional.

I think these dealer installed options cost the original owner another $1500! I will have to look it up.

[Aus94Q45]

Strange -- my ivory 94 has gold omegas on the front and rear, gold antenna base, but chrome door handles. Partial kit? Actually I really had to think about it without looking at the car, as it is really not that noticable.

[ardvarkus]

I've never bought a private party car in Georgia, but I'm pretty sure it's not taxable.

Cars bought from dealers are taxed at normal sales tax rates. I live in Fulton county (where most of Atlanta is) and if I buy a car in another county, I still have to pay Fulton county sales tax of 7% (other counties vary).

My brother in Virginia said he pays a flat 3% tax on car sales whether through dealer or private party.

Guess it's a little different everywhere. Gotta consider the tax rates.

Well knock me over...

GA has no tax on MV purchase from a private party according to the GA DMV!

I've purchased cars in 4 states, admittedly not GA, but it is always the tax rate WHERE YOU LIVE. Sure,a private party does not collect taxes and send it to the state...but the state will collect tax when you go to register it! (This is true in CA, CO, PA and NY (although the latter two are from 15 years ago).

Interesting SOME states will allow you to get a credit on your states' taxes IF the 'foreign state' already collected... BUT ONLY if the states have a reciprocity agreement... (fun facts..)

So, GA finally gets a tick in the plus column!

A

PS So, how'd it look?

[Jason B]

Yeah, I have the wood application on mine, and it does not quite match the original. Nor does it fit the instrument and gauge openings exactly correctly. I wonder if any of them do. There are also some gaps where it does not adhere properly to concave surfaces and a slight buckle above the speedometer hidden by the wheel. One guy (Jason) who posts here owns Burtman industries, sellers of such kits, and I hope he will post some methods for removing such appliqués and their adhesives to restore the dash to original condition.

To REMOVE the old kit, it would hellp to heat up the pieces with a hairdryer before you pull. This will make them less brittle when you pull them off. Take your time when prying it off. There will be some adheasive residue leftover that comes off easily if you rub it with your thumb. It will probably take you about an hour to remove the old kit. You just have to be very careful and remove small sections at a time. You can also use 3M adhesive cleaner. It will not affect the Oak or Gray areas, but does dissolve the black color, so you have to be careful to only apply it to areas you know you will recover with a new trim. Then you want to go over everything with the isoproply alcohol. Then put on the new adheasive promoter included in the new dash kit.

Hopes this helps.

I do have dash kits for cars that already have factory wood, with extra pieces that match the stock wood, and full blown kits for models without wood, as well as real carbon fiber.

More info/pictures here: http://www.burtmanindustries.com

[maxnix]

Jason, thanks for the informative post.

Is there any way to re-adhere an installed wood appliqué that is separating from the dash? Is there some kind of adhesive one could inject under the separated veneer to adhere it to the (usually concave) contour of the dash that will permit removal at a later date (per your methods)?

Thanks.

[jmatas]

Well, she drove like a charm. No detectible signs of abuse. I had it up to about 95 on the interstate and it seemed perfect- no vibrations at any point, no brake bucking under interstate braking, etc. The A/C blew cold and all electrics worked fine. There were a couple of cosmetic marks here and there, but nothing that would be a deal breaker. Consistent with age, I would say.Now it's up to my bank to make me an offer I can't refuse.

One funny thing I thought when driving- I remember when I had my G20 how meaty a Q45 steering wheel felt. Now after having driven my I30 for two years, the Q45 wheel seems small. But when I'm driving an I35, they all seem tiny. How big can they possibly keep making steering wheels???

[Jason B]

Jason, thanks for the informative post.

Is there any way to re-adhere an installed wood appliqué that is separating from the dash? Is there some kind of adhesive one could inject under the separated veneer to adhere it to the (usually concave) contour of the dash that will permit removal at a later date (per your methods)?

Thanks.

1) Superglue - The kind that comes with a brush. This should hold corners down, but if you remove it and don't replace the dash with another trim there will be marks.

2) 3M adhesive SPRAY - Found at Pepboys™, etc. Spray a small amount to a Qtip and put behind the piece and then press down.

3) If those don't work - replace with new pieces/kit.

[jmatas]

Well, I'm going on Friday to sign the paperwork and pick up the car. Got a good rate from the bank and everything checked out at T3. So I'm back in the Q family!!! :jump

[Q451990]

Welcome back!!

Heath

[maxnix]

Great to see another example of this marque will be preserved and enjoyed by someone who cares!

And you have T-3 as a resource too. Absolutely great.

[greg_atlanta]

Have you picked a name yet?

Since my car is The Mothership, yours can be The Sistership.