Thinking of buying a '97 Maxima: what should I look for?

[Cyman]

found someone selling a '97 maxima locally on craigslist. didn't list the mileage, but he's selling it for $1000, so I'm guessing it's somewhat high. any problem areas I should be looking for? common leaks? maintenance, ect. I don't know much about these cars specifically, so any help going into the sale would help out.
and just an fyi: I'm a member on nico, so I'm not just going to jack your help and leave.. I'll stay active in the community if I end up getting the car.
Thanks!
-Cyman

[Jay85]

I just bought a 94 Nissan Maxima with 96k miles a few months ago off of craigslist. One of the things I did to make sure that I'm not getting into a sucker deal was take a mechanic, if you can that would be your best bet if you don't know too much about cars like myself. I've had friends who bought lemons, terrible situation. Here are a few common tips, do research on the car. Get a carfax, check the car history to see if any tickets accidents odo rollback etc... Make sure the car has been smog checked and up to date with registration. IMO I wouldn't recommend you buy a car with high miles, for $1000? I would say that you are dealing either with a high mileage car, or a car that has had its time and probably needs tons of mechanical work.

Some of the things my mechanic did:
1. Put the car in drive, then put it in reverse, then back in drive several times. I think that was his way to test the transmission and motor mounts on the engine.
2. Let the car run for 20 - to 30mins to see if any overheating or any leaks, smoking or anything of that nature.
3. Check the suspension and tires.
4. Test drive the car to see if gears are switching properly, brake a few times to see if the braking system is functioning properly.
5. Check fluids, oil, transmission, power steering, etc...
6. Make sure all gauges is working, check the cabin electrical functions... Windows, head lights, windshield wipers, blinkers, odo meter, brake lights, etc...
7. Make sure that you do not have a "Check Engine" light present... if on, that's signs of problems with the engine and may want to ask why that light is on.

It was more, but these are only common, I hope this helps... Good luck!

[loystock]

Very good suggestions from 'Jay.' In addition, make sure the Check Engine Light comes ON then goes OFF once the engine is running. Some people deliberately disable the CEL to cheat buyers.

Watch out for signs of collision damage (uneven paint job or alignment issue) as well as flood damage. Test drive the car on city streets, those with potholes/humps preferably, to see if suspension is till good and listen for unusual rattle. Then take it to the highway and listen for unusual wind noise, engine vibration at higher speed and then do a high speed braking (>45 MPH) and check for vibration (warped rotor or bad suspension).

[Cyman]

Well, I got the info for the car today. I doubt I'll get it unless you guys still think it's a good idea.
the good: the car runs and drives perfectly. tires are good, the suspension and transmission are both in great working order. no fluid leaks that I can see, and no warning lights. seems to be in perfect mechanical order.

the bad: the car has 227,000 miles on it. I know that these engines are pretty much bulletproof, but if I own a car with this many miles I would prefer to be the one that put the miles on it, so I know how the car has been driven.
the owner put a CD player in the car and lost the ability to change the temperature setting for the heater. (also, because of this he is unsure whether or not the AC works properly)
one of the rear electric windows doesn't roll up, and the rear bumper/door has some collision damage. not enough to make the car unusable, but enough to lower the value of the car significantly.

any more input? I'm personally not too worried about the cosmetic damage. I'm going to use this as my DD if I get it, and will most likely drive it into the ground (not too worried about the resale value). the owner made it sound like the heater control getting disabled because of the cd player installation was somewhat common, and was a simple fix.

[schmellyfart]

I would be hesitant about buying one with 230k miles unless the seller has service records. Sounds like the seller screwed up the climate controls when he took apart the dash for the cd player. The rear window probably just needs a new motor and/or regulator.

The heater control is not a common issue when installing a cd player. I think the issue here was an incompetent installer.

Personally, I'd skip it.

[loystock]

Mileage too high for comfort. Transmission, if original and not serviced regularly, is bound to fail soon. Find another car.

[Cyman]

thanks for the advice, guys. I'll move on. quick question for you maxima folk: for longevity do you prefer the 89-94 maxima (VG30E) or the 95-99 maxima (VQ30DE)?
I'm a Z32 guy, so I'm partial to the vg. just wanted to get your input.

[loystock]

It would be difficult to find a J30 (89-94 Max) with solid body-paint and in good running condition. You have better chances with A32 (95-99 Max) and from what I've seen, 97 & 98 model years are very reliable, assuming of course not abused by PO.