They said one of the rotors was blown, which was probably true considering it wouldn't reach redline until they had it going for a while, at which point the extra heat probably worked to create a seal in the blown rotor.AltiNate wrote:Seems to me that it was a perfectly good motor. Why they decided it would be worth blowing I don't understand.
Actually, it's the opposite. Rotaries are underdriven, meaning that if the crank is going 3000rpm, the rotors are going 9000rpm. The reason rotaries can do this is that there are no reciprocating parts in the engine, ruling out fatigue due to shock loading on connecting rods, and also because there are 3 total major moving parts in a 2-rotor rotary block. That is why rotaries can do that.InsanityInc wrote:This really isn't that impressive. You have to understand something about rotaries. They're inherently overerdriven due to the design of the eccentric shaft, so if the flywheel is going 9000, the rotors are only going 3000.
That doesn't make sense. The crankshaft is smaller than the rotor's drive gear. Go look at a bicycle. When a big gear and a small gear are connected, the smaller one must turn more rapidly to match up.Also, if rotaries were underdriven as you said, they'd be about the torquiest and lowest-revving engines around--which is exactly the opposite of what they are.AmoebAssassin wrote:Actually, it's the opposite. Rotaries are underdriven, meaning that if the crank is going 3000rpm, the rotors are going 9000rpm. The reason rotaries can do this is that there are no reciprocating parts in the engine, ruling out fatigue due to shock loading on connecting rods, and also because there are 3 total major moving parts in a 2-rotor rotary block. That is why rotaries can do that.
You're right, my bad...it's been a while since i looked at that howstuffworks articleMinisterofDOOM wrote:That doesn't make sense. The crankshaft is smaller than the rotor's drive gear. Go look at a bicycle. When a big gear and a small gear are connected, the smaller one must turn more rapidly to match up.Also, if rotaries were underdriven as you said, they'd be about the torquiest and lowest-revving engines around--which is exactly the opposite of what they are.
The rotors rotate once for every three crankshaft rotations.
Google "wankel 3:1 gear ratio" and you'll find reputable sources confirming this.
Uhm... you do realize that reduction gearing can easily be used to change the torque output of an engine, yes? And that they ARE, right? Just look up the gearing for an RX7 or RX8, you'll see. And rotaries aren't particularly failure prone when compared to other engines, they just tend to wear out faster, but considering it costs like 50 bucks to rebuild them, it's not too much of a problem.s13rb25det wrote:either way , rotary engines suck!! they have zero torque and and explode all the time!! I work at a ford/mazda dealership and we are always working on rx7s! even the new rx8s are falling apart!! and parts are not cheap either! $185 bucks for 4 plugs for the rx8!!! super stupid!! if I wanted to have low torque and high revs Id get a super bike!
Hello Mr.Misinformation.... do you own an RX-7 or any other rotary powered car? Are you an ASE and Mazda Master Rotary Certified Technician? If 'no' was the answer to these two than you need to withdraw your comments now because you have no right to slander a motor you know nothing about.s13rb25det wrote:either way , rotary engines suck!! they have zero torque and and explode all the time!! I work at a ford/mazda dealership and we are always working on rx7s! even the new rx8s are falling apart!! and parts are not cheap either! $185 bucks for 4 plugs for the rx8!!! super stupid!! if I wanted to have low torque and high revs Id get a super bike!
Good work on the gearing info. As for rebuilds, they are indeed quite costly, its just the number of *main* parts is low. Bearing rate is almost null due to the low side-to-side force impossed on them. The main cost is the seals, which is costly from the dealer however aftermarket (Rotary Aviation) kits run about $800-1000 in constrast to the almost $2000 price tag of a rebuild when going through a stealership. Time-wise they are very cost effective as the rebuild can be done in under an hour without breaking a sweat.InsanityInc wrote:Uhm... you do realize that reduction gearing can easily be used to change the torque output of an engine, yes? And that they ARE, right? Just look up the gearing for an RX7 or RX8, you'll see. And rotaries aren't particularly failure prone when compared to other engines, they just tend to wear out faster, but considering it costs like 50 bucks to rebuild them, it's not too much of a problem.
Please, tell me how many you have R&R'd. I'm curious to know -- did you do the removals alone, or were you assisting another technician. Typically a dealership has a specified heavyline tech or in particular with Mazda dealers a 'Master Rotary Tech' who handles all drivetrain specific concerns of that magnitude. I'm also curious what the R&R time paid is on an RX-8. I know it can go upwards of 18hrs for an RX-7 (93-95). R&R time on the old FC's is less since its less 'PITA' work involved.s13rb25det wrote:ooohhh, so all the rotarys I have removed and replaced really didnt blow up!! because on paper you say they are great engines! and $50 bucks for a rebuild!!! whaaaat!!!!! mabye for a oil pan gasket!!! the rx7 owners would be thrilled if parts only cost that much!!! any way Im not here to argue Im just saying AGAIN, that rotarys suck!!!!
Rotaries are more known to blowing a seal compared to those other motors but the reason is almost always due to miscare. Even in my situation I had a bad tune and ran lean at the top of 3rd. Proper warm up and cool down is a big deal in the FD's as is maintenance and a proper tune. If these things are kept in check its not impossible for a rotary to see 200k+. There are TWO FD's (The most trouble prone of the rotaries) that are well above 150k on their ORIGINAL motors from the factory.d!ck wrote:the mazda tuning shop owners and techs next door to me would disagree with you. the engine is exotic so yes, parts are more expensive, and i have seen just as many chevy 350s, honda b18's etc... blow up. theyre not crappy engines if you know what youre doing, or else why would they still be making them.
Congrats on being ASE certified and completing the ASSET program.s13rb25det wrote:o.k mr dopefish, here are the answers to your questions no, I do not own a rotary powered vehicle why would I be hammering on them if I owned one! yes I am a ASE tech in most fields of a car I have been out of the ford ASSET 2 year training program for about a year now. I do some of the engine R+R my self but mostly with another tech. we do not rebuild any engines at my dealership we just black box them! and yes, dealerships are very expensive! now to the reliability of the rotary motor, do people purchase rx8 and rx7 to pamper them? NO they go out and drive them like crazy!!! almost any other non turbod car should be able to handle this kind of driving but the rx8 does noT!!! believe me I see them all the time!! but hear me out on this, the wankel rotary does have hope and it WILL get better! think of it this way, when was the first rotary car mass produced? it was in the late 1970s. now when was the first piston engine mass produced? it was a 100+ years ago so the way I look at it the rotory is about 1940 technology! do you want to disagree about that!! every thing has to evolve! some day the rotary will be a great, well built, depenable engine, but for now it just makes me money!!!!!
Did you just pull that our of your ***? I have family that works in all parts of the big 3 in Michigan. To touch a car at any dealership you need to have a basic auto certification (like an ASE) then you must complete the manufacturer required training for a specific job title. Example, the front end alignment guy has over 18 months of training. Not only does he do the alignment he has to inspect the structural integrity of the frame/mounts and everything that connects to the frame from the suspension. That guy makes 85-125k a year depending on the dealership. The factories require the dealerships to have their tech's certified by them. Please don't ever spread false information again, you just make yourself look bad.d!ck wrote:i just recently had a fun experience at a ford/mazda dealership that confirmed what i suspected: there are no minimum requirements to be a tech or even a supervisor/manager at the dealerships, but they absolutely WILL NOT hire you if you are intelligent, helpful, or posess any basic motor skills at all...
I use to work for a Ford dealership in my area, left because the rednecks I worked with kept pissing me off. I'd consider a Mazda/Nissan dealer again but I'll never work for a domestic shop again unless its like Cadillac (Where my brother works) or some other luxury brand dealer. I went into ASSET straight out of high school, it was a good program but it started out VERY slow and VERY basic. In either case I'm kinda far from cars at the present moment I'm a network systems analyst.s13rb25det wrote:dopefish do you work at a dealership, or auto shop also? just wondering because you seem to know all the stuff about it! if you have any questions about the ASSET program or any other apprentice auto programs shoot me an email
I for one feel a litle stupider 90% of the time I read d!ck posts... but hey we can keep him around 10% of the time he has something semi inteligent to say..d!ck wrote:ya dude im sure you do feel stupider!!! and im not surprised you have no idea what im talking about!! WYOTECH is in Texas now?!! You do sound like a real estate guy so i wouldnt expect more from ya!!
I can tell the "stupidness" is taking an affect on you. Forgot your 2nd t on little and the 2nd l on intelligent. I don't know if it was intentional but, it only adds to the comedic goldmine here!Kenrik wrote:I for one feel a litle stupider 90% of the time I read d!ck posts... but hey we can keep him around 10% of the time he has something semi inteligent to say..
(like i'm one to talk LOL)