Thicker Fel-pro or OEM headgasket?

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
blownhemi
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So, my water starts to boil after I do a pull. Normal cruising, no problem. I have no idea if the head is cracked or only the gasket blew (Cometic MLS). There were some occasions, where the engine went without enough coolant (definitely none in the head), the first one was a couple of years ago, when the OEM radiator cracked on the highway while doing a pull.
Right now, there's no oil in the water, and no water in the oil, so I'm thinking, if it's not the gasket, probably the head cracked between combustion chamber and water jacket, and gases escape into the water under high load.

Long story short, we're gonna try retorquing the Cometic, but I'm not getting my hopes up, I have a feeling this is going to end in a head swap, so I'm researching that option.

I need a 1.6mm headgasket (that's +0.3 or +0.4 from stock), because the block is a tad short. I'm not going to disassemble the block to have it decked again (already too short for my taste), and I just don't have the time/place/patience anymore for that kind of job, so I'd rather put on something less sensitive to surface finish, like the Fel-Pro, or the OEM.

So, does anyone know of a thicker HG from Fel-Pro, or is there an OEM one? Where can I find the correct Fel-Pros, by the way? Google only turns up OZ sites, or articles with pictures, that are not the DET gasket.

Failing to find one, how good an idea is it to just have the new head decked, and put it back together with the old Cometic, after rubbing off any leftover Viton, and copper spraying both sides? My goal is 30 psi on E85 in the long run.

Thanks for any insight!


tommey
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I am not aware of any thicker OEM style gaskets for the CA.
Why do you want a thick gasket?, is it because of clearance or compression?
If iit's about compression that's not a valid argument, especiall on e85.

I am no fan of re-using gaskets but I have a couple of friends who has re-used headgasket's on CA's without issues.
Copper spray and resurfaced head of course.

I would consider a new gasket anyway.

Have the head pressure tested, cracks in CA heads are rare, I have only heard of one that cracked under the cams.

Running ARP?, I would consider stock bolts.

blownhemi
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tommey wrote:I am not aware of any thicker OEM style gaskets for the CA.
Why do you want a thick gasket?, is it because of clearance or compression?
If iit's about compression that's not a valid argument, especiall on e85.
Clearance. Piston tops stuck out of the block 0.3mm(~ish). Lacking any specs on how much they are allowed to come out, I went by a used bone stock engine I had here with the head off, which had zero piston stickout. So, stock thickness plus 0.3mm it was.
tommey wrote: I am no fan of re-using gaskets but I have a couple of friends who has re-used headgasket's on CA's without issues.
Copper spray and resurfaced head of course.

I would consider a new gasket anyway.

Have the head pressure tested, cracks in CA heads are rare, I have only heard of one that cracked under the cams.

Running ARP?, I would consider stock bolts.
ARPs. As for cracks, do you think, that in a no-coolant scenario a steel headgasket is more likely to let go, than an aluminium head?

tommey
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The head will warp and cause the gasket to leak, that's also a scenario where the head COULD crack.

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sjbsuperman1425
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let me ask, are you using just "WATER" or a 50/50 mix with coolant?

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float_6969
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Boilover sounds like a popped headgasket into the combustion chamber to me. My friends SR did the EXACT same thing. Was always fine until he beat on it, then it would boil the coolant. If you overheated it at all, I'll bet the head is warped and the cometic is no longer sealing. As for a thicker OEM type gasket, you won't find one. A metal HG is the only option. You also need to be prepared for at least running a MACHINISTS straight edge along the block and making sure it's not warped and for sure having the head resurfaced. What piston are you running that the piston comes up out of the block?

blownhemi
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sjbsuperman1425 wrote:let me ask, are you using just "WATER" or a 50/50 mix with coolant?
Yep, sorry, I meant coolant, mixed for -35 *C.
float_6969 wrote:Boilover sounds like a popped headgasket into the combustion chamber to me. My friends SR did the EXACT same thing. Was always fine until he beat on it, then it would boil the coolant. If you overheated it at all, I'll bet the head is warped and the cometic is no longer sealing. As for a thicker OEM type gasket, you won't find one. A metal HG is the only option. You also need to be prepared for at least running a MACHINISTS straight edge along the block and making sure it's not warped and for sure having the head resurfaced. What piston are you running that the piston comes up out of the block?
I'm running CPs. This stickout caused me some serious headscratching back then.
topic512656.html
Brought it to a more competent machine shop (old guy w/ glasses, as always) who could bring it down to an even 0.5mm stickout.

Should I bother at all with the retorquing of the studs or just go ahead and take the head off? As I read, some of you here needed retorquing ARP+Cometic combos on occasion, some didn't.

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float_6969
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Re-torquing has no cost associated with it, so it won't hurt anything to try, but the chances of the HG leaking and not having burnt out are pretty slim.

silvios
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Sorry to hijack Thread - but what would you say if a head gasket is leaking out the side of the block (small drops from cylinder 2, exhaust side) but the car is not overheating?

Should i re-torque or replace?

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float_6969
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Always try to re-torque first. It doesn't cost anything and it can't hurt anything.


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