After months of no prevail, I am asking all of you for your help.
My car has under gone a KA24DE swap by the previous owner. I bought it off of him being informed that the conversion was complete, and the car came with a turn key motor... Well this was not the case. Here is my story.
I bought the car with the engine out of it, believing it was going to be a simple drop in and drive. Long story short, the engine was installed to find out it was seized in the bottom end from incorrect assembly. I thought it was just tight, so i cranked at it with the starter until it fired up. It ran to blow its head gasket very shortly, and developed a gigantic bottom end knock. I removed the spark plugs to find the cylinders were completely hydrolocked in #1&4 from gasoline. *Discovery #1* The fuel rails O-rings were leaking 40 psi of gasoline into the cylinders. Its a god damn miracle it even ran. Well oh s***, may as well pull the engine and see WTF is going on. Long story short, I got the engine onto a stand and pulled it apart. *Discovery #2* The connecting rod caps on 2 of the rods were installed backwards, and 2 connecting rods were bent into banannas from the hydrolocking. *Discovery #3* The oil passages were plugged with silicone gasket sealer
Anyhow, I purchased new rods, brought all the internals including the engine block to an engine shop and had it all checked and cleaned up. Multiple hundred dollars later, the engine was re-assembled and put back into the car. Should run fine right? No.
*Discovery #4*
The engine runs, but the idle is shaky, high, rough, and stalls.
Absolutely guttless in all ranges of rpm until around 4000
RIDICULOUSLY bad on gas
Ignition timing fluctuates
The wiring harness was missing the main ECU ground on the block by the TPS, etc.
Okay, fixed that, it runs a bit better. But I am still experiencing all of the same symptoms.
So I checked the ECU for codes, what do you know, Code 34... the knock sensor.
Since I found that code, I have:
1 - Replaced the knock sensor
2 - Tested the wires for continuity
3 - Tested the voltage (came out at 4.8V( YES, I know its suppose to be 5V)
4 - Checked the voltage from the knock sensor pin at the ECU (4.8V)
5 - Tested the Body - Battery resistance (1.7 ohms)
6 - Tested the resistance from ECU harness to battery (1.7 ohms)
7 - Opened up the ECU to look for corroded board tracks
After all of this, I still get a code 34, and have all the same s*** going on. Although I have concluded that it is not a problem with the wire, because the voltage is not being lost through it.
Does anyone have any idea as to what the hell is going on?
Why is the voltage reading 0.2 volts low?
Are there any walk throughs for testing every single engine electrical ground?
I am extremely suspicious of this code 34 to be the problem, especially because of the fluctuating timing.
None of my dash instruments or wipers work until after I rev it up a bit just following start up.
Please, Discuss.