THE ultimate Q45 maintenance schedule

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AlabamaDan
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There have been a large number of threads on maintaing a Q45 to NICO standards, which are high. As I'm reading through these I'm trying to compile ONE schedule that can qualify as NICO'S ULTIMATE Q45 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. Perhaps one that even Dennis would bless. This should be able to answer everyone what questions and leave only the hows.

With that in mind I have a few things that I need some guidance on before I release a 1st rough draft.

Please don't try and tell me what I've forgotten at this point. What follows is not THE list, but simply a few odd items that I'm trying to categorize. Of the following items, how often should they occur:

Replace Fuel PumpReplace BeltsReplace HosesBrake PadsReplace ShocksReplace TiresInspect Light Bulbs?Chain Guides (For 1st Gen Qs)Replace Wheel BearingsRepack Wheel Bearing GreaseReplace RotorsReplace the Idler PullyReplace u-jointsReplace Radiator CapReplace Gas CapReplace Water PumpReplace BatteryReplace Knock SensorsPlemun Hose ReplacementUse BG OIL CONDITIONERfuel rail flushReplace Transmission MountsReplace Motor MountsTranny filter/pan drop/Replace Thermostat Replace Valve Cover Gaskets

Happy New Year!


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elwesso
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dannymchale wrote:There have been a large number of threads on maintaing a Q45 to NICO standards, which are high. As I'm reading through these I'm trying to compile ONE schedule that can qualify as NICO'S ULTIMATE Q45 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. Perhaps one that even Dennis would bless. This should be able to answer everyone what questions and leave only the hows.

With that in mind I have a few things that I need some guidance on before I release a 1st rough draft.

Please don't try and tell me what I've forgotten at this point. What follows is not THE list, but simply a few odd items that I'm trying to categorize. Of the following items, how often should they occur:

1. Replace Fuel Pump2. Replace Belts3. Replace Hoses4. Brake Pads5. Replace Shocks6. Replace Tires7. Inspect Light Bulbs?8. Chain Guides (For 1st Gen Qs)9. Replace Wheel Bearings10. Repack Wheel Bearing Grease11. Replace Rotors12. Replace the Idler Pully13. Replace u-joints14. Replace Radiator Cap15. Replace Gas Cap16. Replace Water Pump17. Replace Battery18. Replace Knock Sensors19. Plemun Hose Replacement20. Use BG OIL CONDITIONER21. fuel rail flush22. Replace Transmission Mounts23. Replace Motor Mounts24. transmission filter/pan drop/25. Replace Thermostat 26. Replace Valve Cover Gaskets

Happy New Year!
1. When it starts making noise2. 30k (inspect every oil change)3,19. 100k4. Depends, usually OEMs can last 10k or so.5. 60k on stock springs, 30k on eibachs6. 20-25k7. Whenever you think about it 8. ASAP.... never too soon, we saw Paul's Q had failed guides at a mere 70k9. not sure?10. the bearings are sealed11. Every 3 resurfacing (20-30k?)12. If they start squealing.. maybe every 2 belt changes (60k) would be safe.13. U joints are not specifically replaceable but driveshaft is considered 120k14. 30k should be safe, or when it starts leaking a little (on hot days you may see it spew on the engine)15. I dont know why you would do this unless its broken?16. 100k or when it starts leaking17. 3 years18. Whenever your under the plenum (100-120k)20. Use quick clean once a year or so... Really you shouldnt have to if you use good oil, it should stay clean21. 60- 100k?22. 60k23. 120k is when they seem to be completely shot, more of a function of age (10 years)24. 30k, basically every other transmission flush, which should be 15k 25. 30k with belts (its a 10 min job)26. when they leak

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gniknave
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I made a few revisions from what I see in our Service Advisors manuals, but most were pretty accurate...

1. Replace Fuel Pump When it starts making noise2. Replace Belts 30k (inspect every oil change)3. Replace Hoses(incl. under plenum) 100k (thermostat also recommened at same time)4. Brake Pads Depends, usually OEMs can last 10k or so5. Replace Shocks 60k on stock springs, 30k on eibachs6. Replace Tires 20-25k7. Inspect Light Bulbs? Before every trip (for exterior) is recommended8. Chain Guides (90-93 Q's) Best replaced ASAP9. Replace Wheel Bearings 90-100K10. Repack Wheel Bearing Grease see 911. Replace Rotors Every 3 resurfacing (20-30k)12. Replace the Idler Pully Every two belt changes or 60k13. Replace u-joints Goes with driveshaft at 120k (recommended)14. Replace Radiator Cap 30K, or whenever cap is removed (says Infiniti)15. Replace Gas Cap Every other year (all cars - recommended in California)16. Replace Water Pump 100k or if leaking17. Replace Battery Every 3 years18. Replace Knock Sensors 100k or when plenum is removed19. Plenum Hose Replacement 100k 20. Use BG OIL CONDITIONER Once per year21. fuel rail flush 60-100k (should be done earlier in California & Arizona)22. Replace Transmission Mounts 60k or 5 years23. Replace Motor Mounts 120k or 10 years is average24. transmission filter/pan drop 30k (after every other 15k transmission flush)25. Replace Thermostat 30k with belts, or with any hose replacement/coolant flush26. Replace Valve Cover Gaskets (reseal 90-93) 120k or as needed


AlabamaDan
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gniknave, Thanks for the reply! We'll get this thing going. Let me ask some questions.

As far as the fuel pump goes, I was wondering if it's recommended to replace it at say 100k even if it isn't making noise. I'm guessing your answer is no.

So, you're saying replace the belts every 30k and the idler pully ever 60k! Wow that seems agressive to me. That could be like every other year for some folks.

You only expect to get 10k out of a set of brake pads? I hope to get more than that. But then Q45Tech is pretty adament about changing those pads and rotors.

Tires every 25K! At first I was like no way, but if we use a soft compound I guess you could be right. Is that about how many miles we'll get out of the Mich. Pilots? Aren't those the best tire for the Q?

For replacing the shocks you said 60k on stock springs, 30k on Eibachs. Does that mean if you're running OEM springs to replace the "shocks" at 60k and if you've replaced the OEM springs then replace the shocks at 30k?


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gniknave
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I'd have to bump those questions to Wes. I revised Wes' list to make it more legible to the newbies that are new to their g50's. As far as I know the average replacement point is 20k on front pads, and 25k on rears. However that's depends on your standards for replacement. Most dealerships say replace at 4mm, while some independents say 2mm. It also depends on your style of driving - are you one that brakes all the time (I like to call a nervous driver), or do you maintain a safe following distance and use much less brake when slowing down? Do you live on a hill? Do you brake while coasting downhill instead of downshifting? All of those play a part in brake wear.


DAEDALUS
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It's related to miles driven, but the criteria for replacement should only be thickness and possibly the pad's condition. Factory spec is 2mm thickness. Changing them before that is like changing your oil every 3000 miles vs. 5000 or 7500 miles.

qship96
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my last set of factory pads lasted 70,000 on the fronts,and 39,000 on the rears.

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elwesso
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Another factor is if you like to spontaneously (i use that term loosely) slam on the brakes like I do!

20k would be for grandma, i go through pads more like 10-15k
dannymchale wrote:gniknave, Thanks for the reply! We'll get this thing going. Let me ask some questions.

1. As far as the fuel pump goes, I was wondering if it's recommended to replace it at say 100k even if it isn't making noise. I'm guessing your answer is no.

2. So, you're saying replace the belts every 30k and the idler pully ever 60k! Wow that seems agressive to me. That could be like every other year for some folks.

3. You only expect to get 10k out of a set of brake pads? I hope to get more than that. But then Q45Tech is pretty adament about changing those pads and rotors.

4. Tires every 25K! At first I was like no way, but if we use a soft compound I guess you could be right. Is that about how many miles we'll get out of the Mich. Pilots? Aren't those the best tire for the Q?

5. For replacing the shocks you said 60k on stock springs, 30k on Eibachs. Does that mean if you're running OEM springs to replace the "shocks" at 60k and if you've replaced the OEM springs then replace the shocks at 30k?
1. The reason you dont want to live by that rule is sometimes they last longer, sometimes they dont... Dennis said that his Q ate a fuel pump in like 50k or something like that..... Sometimes they may last longer... However 100k usually seems to be the max they seem to last... When you cna hear it humming inside the car at idle, you know its bad...

2. The belts are definitely 30k, however the idlers could go longer... Most times they squeal before they completely seize.. Maybe 100k would be better, maybe every 3rd belt replacement... A set of idlers is like $100, and belts are like $30.....

3. Like i said above I am (and assumably dennis is) hard on the brakes, thus the increased wear......

4. Yes, hard to beat..... basically even if you get tires that "last" longer than 20k, theyre traction and speed reliability have drastically reduced... So even though you have tread to 50k or so, the tires will not perform half as good, whereas tires that wear fast should perform similarly thoughout their lifespan..

AlabamaDan
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Ok everyone, here is the first past at documenting THE ULTIMATE Q45 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE which will pass NICO's standards.

I'll tell you as I'm compiling this list I'm learning that I have alot of work to do. Ahhhh, time in the garage

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elwesso
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Looks pretty good!!!

Also, i prefer to change my air filter yearly...

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szh
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elwesso wrote:i prefer to change my air filter yearly...
I'd say every 12000 to 15000 miles depending on your climate and dustiness conditions (which is about a year for most people) ... the manual calls for 30000, as I recall, but I think that is a bit too long.

Z

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elwesso
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szhosain wrote:I'd say every 12000 to 15000 miles depending on your climate and dustiness conditions (which is about a year for most people) ... the manual calls for 30000, as I recall, but I think that is a bit too long.

Z
A new air filter is $5... I see no exuse not to replace yearly.. I think under most anyones driving conditions yearly is enough...

AlabamaDan
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I agree with you about the air filter. For $5 why not?

Hey Dennis aka Q45tech! Can you look this over and see what you think?

AlabamaDan
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Can anyone else look this over to see if we're covered?

LongBeachQ45
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I didn't see anyone cover the fuel filter. I do mine 1-2 times a year (California crap ethanol fuel)

maxnix
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LongBeachQ45 wrote:I didn't see anyone cover the fuel filter. I do mine 1-2 times a year (California crap ethanol fuel)
Smart guy for $11 a pop.

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GseaQ
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Danny, good job. I have never been able to get a third turn on my brake rotors - front or rear. They're just too thin. I turn them twice and replace. The rears last about 30% longer than fronts. All rotors warp faster the thinner they get. So I get new rotors about every 18 months (F) and 22-24 months (R).

I made my own schedule - actually modified one I found somewhere, but it's not as comprehensive as yours. It's also excel so I can send it to you if you like for comparison. I also included BG44K on my schedule.

One thing I think you could clarify - the '90-'93 timing chain guides only need to be done once - ASAP. The replacement guides are all metal-backed and should last the life of the engine.

Cheers,Glenn

DoinkMobb
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Very cool. I need something like this. I've got so many projects to take care of with the house and the cars, my weekends are booked for the next 3 years at least.

AlabamaDan
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I've actually been modifing it somewhat as I read more, get feedback and do more. I'll try and post the most recent version. It's a team project.

Q45tech
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My first fuel pump lasted 150k the next one was done in <50k [because I didn't clean gas tank], after removal and total cleaning the 3rd one now has 117k.

As to oem front pads I've never worn a set out in less than 22k front or rear some have lasted 28k..............guess I brake consistently.

All oem and Powerstop rotors have lasted 40-50k. I have 82k on the front Powerstops but they are below minimum by 0.8-1mm so I have not been bad but I'm experimenting on warps vs thickness..............cannot tell difference and they have been retrued over 12 times [[IMPORTANT to change pads before minimums [to make up 1mm difference] and I have rebuilt fronts with new orings and hoses]].

I know the majority don't change rotors when they should so I want to see what happens...............but I don't drive over 80 since the rotors went below mins.

The point is somethings you can slip on IF you understand what the downsides are. I would much rather have below mins on rotors than pads! Both would be asking for it especially without rebuilt calipers.



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