Day 1:Got started this afternoon about 3pm. First we found the right wire for rpm for my SAFC, then calibrated the knock sensor.
Then, we got the car up in the air and started pulling stuff off. I forgot to bring up the camera, so I'll post pics tomorrow.
First, we removed the Injen intake I'd had before. It seems to have been mauled somewhat by my rough cutting of the hole where the intake goes down behind the foglight to pull air. We're going to get some foam to put around this hole to protect the intercooler piping during our parts run tomorrow.
Next, we started pulling off the midpipe. Low and behold, we found that my stock cat has a 2.5in inlet and outlet. It doesn't appear to be terribly restrictive either. However, it will be replaced when I get $155 to get Greg to send me one. For now it will function without causing too much of a problem in the backpressure department.
Then we set to work on the exhaust manifold. After unbolting the heatshield, we found that it was somewhat trapped by the O2 sensor. I simply unhooked the O2 from it's clip connecting it to it's wires that run to the ECU, and, not wanting to risk damage to the O2 and not in the mood getting the tool from Autozone, we did a little bit of pulling and playing with positions and it popped right out.
Next was the mani itself. Some of the bolts were hard to get to, but none of them were too terribly rusted in.
Once again, we ran into a problem: the EGR tube was contacting the distributor when we tried to pull the mani. We finally managed to move the nut on the end of the EGR tube out of the way, towards the manifold end of the tube, and with some grunting and gentle manipulation, we got it out.
While Mike was working with the oil pan (below), I set to work on removing the old oil and coolant fittings from the turbo and installing my ATP Turbo coolant banjos and oil return flange.
So, having drained the oil when we first got the car up, we began working on removing the oil pans for the drill and tap. We unbolted the entire upper oil pan, then decided to drop the lower one first to see if there were bolts inside.
Good idea, there were.
So, we pulled those, then set to work on getting through the sealant on the upper. After 15 minutes or so we had no luck, and it was already 10:30, so we plugged all the open holes in the engine (intake and exhaust mani), closed the garage, and left it for the morning.
Soooo...
Questions of the day:1. Any advice on removing that pan?2. Most people use a 1/2in NPT tap, my tap is 5/8". Most people use a 23/32 drill bit to make the hole. What size should I use for the 5/8"? I'm sure the hardware store guy will be able to help.
Problems of the day:My injectors and IC piping kit are being quite slow to get here. I'm not excited about that. The injectors should definitely be here tomorrow, but I haven't gotten word on the kit, and that really concerns me.I need a conversion from a barb-type fitting to a male 5/8" NPT. I also need a double-sided male 5/8" thread fitting. Lastly, I need a -3an double-sided male fitting. All of these should be attainable tomorrow.
So, thus far, this has been one of the lower-pain installs I've ever had. I hope it stays this way... I really hope that.
Pics and an update tomorrow!
The Turbo Install...
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
Day 2 was the day of money spending.
In total, I spent $89 today in various fittings, goos, fluids, filters, and crap. I need to buy one more fitting and possibly yet another drill bit. A friend of mine has a few large bits that may do the trick.
Removing the oil pan was a beast. First we unbolted every bolt on there, and there are lots, anyone doing this should definitely find an FSM to show you where they are. You also need to fill the open bolt hole to make the pan seperate from the rest of the engine, and, of course, make your way through the sealant.
After that, make sure the passenger is off. While we did this, Zach got the fun job of unbolting the beam that runs from the center of the front of the engine bay to the back, it has 2 motor mounts on it. After unbolting it, we unbolted one or both of the motor mounts (we unbolted the rear) to slide the bar out of the way enough to get the pan out. Lastly, we unbolted the oil pickup and the pan slid right out. Having the wheel off may not be necessary, but it gave me an angle to hold the pan and keep it from mauling Zach's face as he got the last pickup bolt off.
Anyway, after that we looked at what we had. I grabbed a small steel drill bit and Zach threw it in the drill while I got under the car. I came from behind for drilling, here's why: if you come from the radiator side, you will likely have issue with the drill hitting the radiator. We used a piece of tape as a guide, and Zach spotted my position from up front. The first drill was very difficult, but after that (we moved up sizes, we'll end up with 4 or 5 drillings) it was pretty easy with the guide hole. Shavings were everywhere, my dad, of course, freaked out when he dropped in, but I explained that that's how it's done and he didn't say anything else. Anyway, the 1/2in bit we used on the last hole of the day would simply burn up the motor if we tried to start it on the block, so we got a few revs and did an in and out deal on it, chewing bit by bit, it worked quite well. My tap is pretty decently off center, but not so much as to mess with function. The key is making sure you keep it high and toward the driver's side enough, if coming from the angle I did. I'll have to drill one or two more times tomorrow to get the final hole, then we screw in the tap and VOILA! Ready to go.
Now, before all that mess, we pulled the coolant lines off the throttle body (which are used in heating the TB during starts/warm up in extreme cold. GA has no such weather, and I hate cold weather, so I'll likely never need this feature) and putting some new line on there to wrap back up to where the turbo will be. The lines we used are actually fuel lines from NAPA, but they're made for much higher pressures that my coolant feed will need, so they work perfectly.
While the coolant work was going on, Zach and I (Mike was on coolant duty) got down below and finally got the oil sender off. It has a major sealant on it, so we just torqued it, rested, then torqued again til the seal broke. We made sure to make a new seal on every part of my oil sending adapter from SPL before putting it into the threads.
Sadly, that's about all that happened today. We spent 4ish hours just getting parts and tools and such, but with the last couple drillings we'll be very much on our way to finishing, after that it's time to start putting the car back together.
So...Questions:None.
Problems:None.
That's what I like to type.
Tomorrow I'm off to get a couple fittings in the morning, then it's drill time, and finally we'll get everything put back together.
A few pics from Day 2:edit: Can't post pics? Hmm... weird. I did it just like normal... must be a weird error. I'll get them up eventually.
In total, I spent $89 today in various fittings, goos, fluids, filters, and crap. I need to buy one more fitting and possibly yet another drill bit. A friend of mine has a few large bits that may do the trick.
Removing the oil pan was a beast. First we unbolted every bolt on there, and there are lots, anyone doing this should definitely find an FSM to show you where they are. You also need to fill the open bolt hole to make the pan seperate from the rest of the engine, and, of course, make your way through the sealant.
After that, make sure the passenger is off. While we did this, Zach got the fun job of unbolting the beam that runs from the center of the front of the engine bay to the back, it has 2 motor mounts on it. After unbolting it, we unbolted one or both of the motor mounts (we unbolted the rear) to slide the bar out of the way enough to get the pan out. Lastly, we unbolted the oil pickup and the pan slid right out. Having the wheel off may not be necessary, but it gave me an angle to hold the pan and keep it from mauling Zach's face as he got the last pickup bolt off.
Anyway, after that we looked at what we had. I grabbed a small steel drill bit and Zach threw it in the drill while I got under the car. I came from behind for drilling, here's why: if you come from the radiator side, you will likely have issue with the drill hitting the radiator. We used a piece of tape as a guide, and Zach spotted my position from up front. The first drill was very difficult, but after that (we moved up sizes, we'll end up with 4 or 5 drillings) it was pretty easy with the guide hole. Shavings were everywhere, my dad, of course, freaked out when he dropped in, but I explained that that's how it's done and he didn't say anything else. Anyway, the 1/2in bit we used on the last hole of the day would simply burn up the motor if we tried to start it on the block, so we got a few revs and did an in and out deal on it, chewing bit by bit, it worked quite well. My tap is pretty decently off center, but not so much as to mess with function. The key is making sure you keep it high and toward the driver's side enough, if coming from the angle I did. I'll have to drill one or two more times tomorrow to get the final hole, then we screw in the tap and VOILA! Ready to go.
Now, before all that mess, we pulled the coolant lines off the throttle body (which are used in heating the TB during starts/warm up in extreme cold. GA has no such weather, and I hate cold weather, so I'll likely never need this feature) and putting some new line on there to wrap back up to where the turbo will be. The lines we used are actually fuel lines from NAPA, but they're made for much higher pressures that my coolant feed will need, so they work perfectly.
While the coolant work was going on, Zach and I (Mike was on coolant duty) got down below and finally got the oil sender off. It has a major sealant on it, so we just torqued it, rested, then torqued again til the seal broke. We made sure to make a new seal on every part of my oil sending adapter from SPL before putting it into the threads.
Sadly, that's about all that happened today. We spent 4ish hours just getting parts and tools and such, but with the last couple drillings we'll be very much on our way to finishing, after that it's time to start putting the car back together.
So...Questions:None.
Problems:None.
That's what I like to type.
Tomorrow I'm off to get a couple fittings in the morning, then it's drill time, and finally we'll get everything put back together.
A few pics from Day 2:edit: Can't post pics? Hmm... weird. I did it just like normal... must be a weird error. I'll get them up eventually.
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
We teflon-taped every fitting we've used. It's like 99c per roll, so why not?
At this point the oil tap is definitely in. We're going to seal it real well in a few minutes to be sure. I'm currently employed taking the sealant off the bottom of the block, which is somewhat difficult after you start getting woozy from the scent of carb cleaner (which seems to loosen the sealant quite well).
After I finish that up we'll re-seal and re-bolt the pans and pickup, then it's time for the fun stuff again.
I need to find an NPT to BSPT converter quick, I forgot that my oil feed line to turbo fitting was National. Since my IC piping has an at-best ETA of Saturday, I'm going to see if SPL can express-ship me a converter fitting tomorrow. Unless someone has any idea where I can pick one up tomorrow.
My injectors are still MIA too, so the car likely won't be ready til early next week.
All the same, better late than never.
At this point the oil tap is definitely in. We're going to seal it real well in a few minutes to be sure. I'm currently employed taking the sealant off the bottom of the block, which is somewhat difficult after you start getting woozy from the scent of carb cleaner (which seems to loosen the sealant quite well).
After I finish that up we'll re-seal and re-bolt the pans and pickup, then it's time for the fun stuff again.
I need to find an NPT to BSPT converter quick, I forgot that my oil feed line to turbo fitting was National. Since my IC piping has an at-best ETA of Saturday, I'm going to see if SPL can express-ship me a converter fitting tomorrow. Unless someone has any idea where I can pick one up tomorrow.
My injectors are still MIA too, so the car likely won't be ready til early next week.
All the same, better late than never.
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
Day 3:
Today started with some more manipulation of my oil return hole. Eventually we got the fitting in and sealed it nice and tight with some Teflon Tape and a quick squeeze of RTV on the edge, just for some extra assurance.
This was after a run to an aircraft supply shop nearby for some more fittings. We eventually put together a set of fittings that takes my -5AN threaded coolant banjo and ends with a barb of the same inner diameter which will attach to the coolant hose once the turbo is in (which will be sometime within a couple of hours of starting work tomorrow).
Somewhere in there Brian and I mounted my intercooler. I'm using a JohnnyRaceCar new-style 6in core intercooler, as per the recommendation of RED_DET. It has 2.25in end tanks which will mate to 2.25in IC piping which will narrow to 50mm (roughly 2in) at the exit from the turbo and at the BOV. Eventually I'll get a larger turbo intake exit pipe and a larger BOV to match the larger piping - this will accompany a boost increase.
Well, I think.
Here's the strange thing, this wastegate actuator doesn't seem to say Nissan anywhere on it (I didn't look too closely, I'll check tomorrow and ask the original seller of the turbo if it's stock). Of course, Garrett made the turbo, so that could make sense, but I'm not sure how to tell if this actuator is set for stock boost or something higher. I'll figure that out by the time the car is running again. I'm pretty certain my 34lb (360.4cc) MSD injectors (had to have something to fit my top-feed lowport rail that was very low impedance) will be able to handle it if that actuator is set for some higher PSi, but I'll have to check that too.
Anyway, after mounting the IC and making sure it sat pretty in the bumper (which it does, I'll have to trim a little of the bumper brackets where it bolts to the lower support, but it's not more than a little corner to remove, which is nice, and that's only to get it off the IC bracket, so trimming isn't even entirely necessary), we pulled it back off and painted the holes we'd just made in the bumper. We needed a right-angle attachment to get the upper holes drilled. By the way, the bumper support seems to be steel, so it was a beast to drill, but it can be done with some determination. Then the self-tapping screws became an issue since we didn't have a good angle to get them to bite. Once again, a little determination and elbow grease goes a long way.
It turns out that the lower bumper hole is almost exactly the size of this IC. We'll be able to see the silicone joint between the end tanks and the piping, but not more than a sliver of piping, and vertically the IC doesn't interfere with airflow to the radiator, while also not getting cut off from air by the top of the bumper.
In short, this size intercooler is absolutely PERFECT for a B15.
Anyway, after getting the oil return hole the right size, we used a combination of a shop vac, compressed air from an aerosol can (shoot me), and a sliver of sock drenched in carb cleaner to make sure all the shavings were out of the hole. Then, after scraping the surface of the bottom of the block and all the oil pans with a PLASTIC scraper. I can't stress using PLASTIC enough, at least on the aluminum pan and block, because a metal scraper will scratch the surface and possibly lead to a nasty, frustrating, messy, and destructive oil leak that will be equally painful to fix, we RTVed both the upper pan and the block and seated that, bolted the oil pickup in (making sure not to forget the gasket), bolted the mid-plate between the two pans in, then RTVed the lower pan and the upper pan's lower surface and bolted the lower pan back in.
Then we bolted the front-to-rear motor mount brace back in, and started working on the previously unbolted rear motor mount. It isn't tightening all the way, and made a popping sound after a few more turns of the ratchet (it was definitely in the threads), so, to avoid stripping it, I stopped turning it and left the jack in it's place under the engine so that we can figure that issue out tomorrow (it was already 11pm).
So, while my exhaust ports are still plugged with socks, I have no intercooler piping or injectors, I can't attach the oil feed line even when I get the turbo on, I'm missing 3 lower oil pan bolts (though I used a small screwdriver to clear the RTV out of the hole so I can put them in when I find them), am having trouble lining up the upper pan's transmission bolts, have a weird motor mount bolt, and am altogether exhausted, but happy, it's getting there.
Questions:None.
Problems:Listed earlier, but all figure-out-able.
If anyone has any idea where I can get an NPT (female) to BSPT (male) converter somewhere nearby (hardware store?), please let me know, otherwise I'll get SPL to mail me one.
Anyway, I'll try again to post pics here in a minute, and maybe even take the time to upload pics from Day 1 and a few other pics from Day 2 that aren't in my gallery yet, then make a huge pic post (labled, of course) for reference.
My parents think I'm insane. My dad just figured out today that I was actually drilling my block, not my oil pan, he wasn't terribly excited, but remained silent, probably waiting to pass judgement until I try to start it. My brother says the car will never run properly again.
They may be right.
No matter, I'm having a damn good time.
Today started with some more manipulation of my oil return hole. Eventually we got the fitting in and sealed it nice and tight with some Teflon Tape and a quick squeeze of RTV on the edge, just for some extra assurance.
This was after a run to an aircraft supply shop nearby for some more fittings. We eventually put together a set of fittings that takes my -5AN threaded coolant banjo and ends with a barb of the same inner diameter which will attach to the coolant hose once the turbo is in (which will be sometime within a couple of hours of starting work tomorrow).
Somewhere in there Brian and I mounted my intercooler. I'm using a JohnnyRaceCar new-style 6in core intercooler, as per the recommendation of RED_DET. It has 2.25in end tanks which will mate to 2.25in IC piping which will narrow to 50mm (roughly 2in) at the exit from the turbo and at the BOV. Eventually I'll get a larger turbo intake exit pipe and a larger BOV to match the larger piping - this will accompany a boost increase.
Well, I think.
Here's the strange thing, this wastegate actuator doesn't seem to say Nissan anywhere on it (I didn't look too closely, I'll check tomorrow and ask the original seller of the turbo if it's stock). Of course, Garrett made the turbo, so that could make sense, but I'm not sure how to tell if this actuator is set for stock boost or something higher. I'll figure that out by the time the car is running again. I'm pretty certain my 34lb (360.4cc) MSD injectors (had to have something to fit my top-feed lowport rail that was very low impedance) will be able to handle it if that actuator is set for some higher PSi, but I'll have to check that too.
Anyway, after mounting the IC and making sure it sat pretty in the bumper (which it does, I'll have to trim a little of the bumper brackets where it bolts to the lower support, but it's not more than a little corner to remove, which is nice, and that's only to get it off the IC bracket, so trimming isn't even entirely necessary), we pulled it back off and painted the holes we'd just made in the bumper. We needed a right-angle attachment to get the upper holes drilled. By the way, the bumper support seems to be steel, so it was a beast to drill, but it can be done with some determination. Then the self-tapping screws became an issue since we didn't have a good angle to get them to bite. Once again, a little determination and elbow grease goes a long way.
It turns out that the lower bumper hole is almost exactly the size of this IC. We'll be able to see the silicone joint between the end tanks and the piping, but not more than a sliver of piping, and vertically the IC doesn't interfere with airflow to the radiator, while also not getting cut off from air by the top of the bumper.
In short, this size intercooler is absolutely PERFECT for a B15.
Anyway, after getting the oil return hole the right size, we used a combination of a shop vac, compressed air from an aerosol can (shoot me), and a sliver of sock drenched in carb cleaner to make sure all the shavings were out of the hole. Then, after scraping the surface of the bottom of the block and all the oil pans with a PLASTIC scraper. I can't stress using PLASTIC enough, at least on the aluminum pan and block, because a metal scraper will scratch the surface and possibly lead to a nasty, frustrating, messy, and destructive oil leak that will be equally painful to fix, we RTVed both the upper pan and the block and seated that, bolted the oil pickup in (making sure not to forget the gasket), bolted the mid-plate between the two pans in, then RTVed the lower pan and the upper pan's lower surface and bolted the lower pan back in.
Then we bolted the front-to-rear motor mount brace back in, and started working on the previously unbolted rear motor mount. It isn't tightening all the way, and made a popping sound after a few more turns of the ratchet (it was definitely in the threads), so, to avoid stripping it, I stopped turning it and left the jack in it's place under the engine so that we can figure that issue out tomorrow (it was already 11pm).
So, while my exhaust ports are still plugged with socks, I have no intercooler piping or injectors, I can't attach the oil feed line even when I get the turbo on, I'm missing 3 lower oil pan bolts (though I used a small screwdriver to clear the RTV out of the hole so I can put them in when I find them), am having trouble lining up the upper pan's transmission bolts, have a weird motor mount bolt, and am altogether exhausted, but happy, it's getting there.
Questions:None.
Problems:Listed earlier, but all figure-out-able.
If anyone has any idea where I can get an NPT (female) to BSPT (male) converter somewhere nearby (hardware store?), please let me know, otherwise I'll get SPL to mail me one.
Anyway, I'll try again to post pics here in a minute, and maybe even take the time to upload pics from Day 1 and a few other pics from Day 2 that aren't in my gallery yet, then make a huge pic post (labled, of course) for reference.
My parents think I'm insane. My dad just figured out today that I was actually drilling my block, not my oil pan, he wasn't terribly excited, but remained silent, probably waiting to pass judgement until I try to start it. My brother says the car will never run properly again.
They may be right.
No matter, I'm having a damn good time.
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
Pics:ECU modification...
MAF wire cut, ready for SAFC re-routing...
Make sure to put the white cover back on and clamp that black thing back down, otherwise your engine will make nasty sounds and not start. Don't ask me how I know.
Day 1:Goofing off is necessary...
Day 2:Demounting the rear motor mount...
Nissan is full of crap, you don't need a special wrench to get to these two nuts (near pan/transmission meeting), just a weeny socket and a dropped motor mount crossmember...
Holy crankshaft Batman!
Drilling (tape is a guide)...
When the hole was still centered...
Day 3:Turbo fittings and crap...
Prepping for mounting IC with self tapping screws... steel is a beast...
IC bolted in...
Fine-tuning oil return hole.
edit: Still won't let me post pics, what's going on guys?
MAF wire cut, ready for SAFC re-routing...
Make sure to put the white cover back on and clamp that black thing back down, otherwise your engine will make nasty sounds and not start. Don't ask me how I know.
Day 1:Goofing off is necessary...
Day 2:Demounting the rear motor mount...
Nissan is full of crap, you don't need a special wrench to get to these two nuts (near pan/transmission meeting), just a weeny socket and a dropped motor mount crossmember...
Holy crankshaft Batman!
Drilling (tape is a guide)...
When the hole was still centered...
Day 3:Turbo fittings and crap...
Prepping for mounting IC with self tapping screws... steel is a beast...
IC bolted in...
Fine-tuning oil return hole.
edit: Still won't let me post pics, what's going on guys?
in the link in your sig it says you did something to your brakes, just wondering since i dont see it here what you did to them...
in other news...you suck at teh internets!
host the pics online...members rides or something
get the url for the picture, if its in members rides you have to right click --> properties and its there
copy paste the link, the around it put image tags, like so:
in other news...you suck at teh internets!
host the pics online...members rides or something
get the url for the picture, if its in members rides you have to right click --> properties and its there
copy paste the link, the around it put image tags, like so:
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
They are hosted in member's rides.
I've been here 3 years, I figured out how to post pics , though it took Rex's tutorial for me to do that...
I think there's gremlins with all the changes going on.
Brakes- Brembo slotted rotorsHawk HPS padsTechna-fit SS linesATE Super Blue juice
Stops like a whore who found out I was broke.
I've been here 3 years, I figured out how to post pics , though it took Rex's tutorial for me to do that...
I think there's gremlins with all the changes going on.
Brakes- Brembo slotted rotorsHawk HPS padsTechna-fit SS linesATE Super Blue juice
Stops like a whore who found out I was broke.
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
Day 4, Part 1:
Ahh yes, the surprises.
First, my oil return fitting doesn't fit the turbo, only the line. I've found a guy in town who can modify the end of the line to make it fit, there goes a few more bucks.
Anyway, a few minutes ago I was bolting in my intercooler for the *final* time. After that I started working with the oil feed line to get it removed from the oil sending unit so I could take it to the guy tomorrow morning.
I was not-so-pleasantly surprised to find some VERY deep looking cracks in my oil pan. I'm not certain they go all the way through, if not, some JB Weld may suffice until I can get a few more bucks and the patience to pull the damn thing off again and replace it.
We'd heard a few somewhat nasty sounds while bolting it in. It makes contact with an alternator bracket (that it's actually bolted to as well), and Zach and I had heard some nastiness while getting the pan off, so I figured it was that.
I guess I was wrong.
I really don't want to put a new one in, and I don't feel like buying it, either, but, obviously, it's gotta be replaced.
I had some cracks before the install too, but they were all dents from, presumably, contact with foreign objects, these cracks are around the bolts on the rear side, move one bolt over from the steel pan, the next two bolts have cracks around them.
This.Sucks.
Okay, so the lesson learned here is don't overtighten the bolts on the pan, you'll crack it, which means you have to partially drop the motor AGAIN, pull both pans and the pickup AGAIN, scrape the block and the lower pan AGAIN, then RTV all that crap+ the new pan.
I really hope they just looked deeper than they are, they may just be strange scratches, it's hard to tell.
I've yet to find anywhere online that actually has a listed price of an SR oil pan.
On the good news side, the intercooler is in, the motor is back on it's own rubber feet, and the oil pan is mostly bolted in. A lot of that will go away if I do indeed need to replace the pan.
I think I'm going to go have a good cry now...
Ahh yes, the surprises.
First, my oil return fitting doesn't fit the turbo, only the line. I've found a guy in town who can modify the end of the line to make it fit, there goes a few more bucks.
Anyway, a few minutes ago I was bolting in my intercooler for the *final* time. After that I started working with the oil feed line to get it removed from the oil sending unit so I could take it to the guy tomorrow morning.
I was not-so-pleasantly surprised to find some VERY deep looking cracks in my oil pan. I'm not certain they go all the way through, if not, some JB Weld may suffice until I can get a few more bucks and the patience to pull the damn thing off again and replace it.
We'd heard a few somewhat nasty sounds while bolting it in. It makes contact with an alternator bracket (that it's actually bolted to as well), and Zach and I had heard some nastiness while getting the pan off, so I figured it was that.
I guess I was wrong.
I really don't want to put a new one in, and I don't feel like buying it, either, but, obviously, it's gotta be replaced.
I had some cracks before the install too, but they were all dents from, presumably, contact with foreign objects, these cracks are around the bolts on the rear side, move one bolt over from the steel pan, the next two bolts have cracks around them.
This.Sucks.
Okay, so the lesson learned here is don't overtighten the bolts on the pan, you'll crack it, which means you have to partially drop the motor AGAIN, pull both pans and the pickup AGAIN, scrape the block and the lower pan AGAIN, then RTV all that crap+ the new pan.
I really hope they just looked deeper than they are, they may just be strange scratches, it's hard to tell.
I've yet to find anywhere online that actually has a listed price of an SR oil pan.
On the good news side, the intercooler is in, the motor is back on it's own rubber feet, and the oil pan is mostly bolted in. A lot of that will go away if I do indeed need to replace the pan.
I think I'm going to go have a good cry now...
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
Apparently the master welder nearby may be able to fix my oil pan. Otherwise I can get one from Midway for $68+shipping, not too bad.
Anyway, I've relaxed about that issue.
Other things that happened today...
Day 4, Part 2:
We flipped the coolant hose on the driver's side of the engine to allow for the intake tube leading to the turbo to fit better. I'm not sure how I'm going to make sure that tube doesn't flop around, especially with that heavy MAF and filter setup on the end. I may resort to zip ties until I can locate something better.
We also got the manifold on. We took the turbo off of it to slide it in. There's an AC hose that contacts the mani when we tried to slide it in. Eventually we made the rubber hose accept defeat to the iron manifold and get out of the way. We'll be wrapping said hose in a heat shield to keep my AC from being too hot.
If it were up to me, I'd ditch the AC. I rarely use it. However, my mom demands it, as does my girlfriend on occasion, thus, it stays.
Before we took off the turbo, we took off the wastegate actuator to try to slide it in, as the actuator contacts a tube that I don't remember the function of. When I bolt the turbo on, I'll make sure to bolt the actuator in beforehand, as once the turbo is on it would be beyond a PITA to get the actuator in.
As far as the oil feed line, I've located a nearby shop that can change the end of it to fit the larger turbo oil inlet fitting. We'll be adding a 1/4in female fitting to it. In the process of doing all this, I'm going to get my oil restictor in. I'd originally skipped it under the logic that as long as exit is larger than entry, no backpressure will cook my turbo. However, restrictors exist for a reason, and I'm darn well going to use mine.
Other than that, Day 4 was decently wasted. I had to get my school schedule. It's going to be kinda sad not having a car on the first day of my senior year. Whatever, it's worth it, and highschool is overrated anyway.
I think that's all from today.
Questions:What is my wastegate actuator set to? I'm waiting for a response from a previous owner of the turbo.
Problems:Cracked oil pan - get it welded for now, plan on replacing it in the near future. Supposedly a tig weld is as stong as new, since it replaces the material lost, but I have my doubts, thus I plan on ordering a new upper pan as soon as I get some cash and replacing it whenever I get the time/patience to, probably over a weekend, preferably a long one, as it's at least an hour long job, and I know it'll take longer.
We made sure to tighten the exhaust mani bolts in the right order to spec. We'll be doing the same with the repaired and new pans.
Oil feed line fittings - getting line modified.
Still a decently painless install, I think I've only drawn blood 4 times.
Anyway, I've relaxed about that issue.
Other things that happened today...
Day 4, Part 2:
We flipped the coolant hose on the driver's side of the engine to allow for the intake tube leading to the turbo to fit better. I'm not sure how I'm going to make sure that tube doesn't flop around, especially with that heavy MAF and filter setup on the end. I may resort to zip ties until I can locate something better.
We also got the manifold on. We took the turbo off of it to slide it in. There's an AC hose that contacts the mani when we tried to slide it in. Eventually we made the rubber hose accept defeat to the iron manifold and get out of the way. We'll be wrapping said hose in a heat shield to keep my AC from being too hot.
If it were up to me, I'd ditch the AC. I rarely use it. However, my mom demands it, as does my girlfriend on occasion, thus, it stays.
Before we took off the turbo, we took off the wastegate actuator to try to slide it in, as the actuator contacts a tube that I don't remember the function of. When I bolt the turbo on, I'll make sure to bolt the actuator in beforehand, as once the turbo is on it would be beyond a PITA to get the actuator in.
As far as the oil feed line, I've located a nearby shop that can change the end of it to fit the larger turbo oil inlet fitting. We'll be adding a 1/4in female fitting to it. In the process of doing all this, I'm going to get my oil restictor in. I'd originally skipped it under the logic that as long as exit is larger than entry, no backpressure will cook my turbo. However, restrictors exist for a reason, and I'm darn well going to use mine.
Other than that, Day 4 was decently wasted. I had to get my school schedule. It's going to be kinda sad not having a car on the first day of my senior year. Whatever, it's worth it, and highschool is overrated anyway.
I think that's all from today.
Questions:What is my wastegate actuator set to? I'm waiting for a response from a previous owner of the turbo.
Problems:Cracked oil pan - get it welded for now, plan on replacing it in the near future. Supposedly a tig weld is as stong as new, since it replaces the material lost, but I have my doubts, thus I plan on ordering a new upper pan as soon as I get some cash and replacing it whenever I get the time/patience to, probably over a weekend, preferably a long one, as it's at least an hour long job, and I know it'll take longer.
We made sure to tighten the exhaust mani bolts in the right order to spec. We'll be doing the same with the repaired and new pans.
Oil feed line fittings - getting line modified.
Still a decently painless install, I think I've only drawn blood 4 times.
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
Internally all SRs are very much the same, externally there are a number of differences between RWD and AWD.
At one point, before I learned that you can't tap the oil pan for oil return on an SR, I was searching for an aftermarket pan to tap and replace the stock one. I didn't find any, but I always searched under FWD SR20 terms. I'd have to see a longitudal SR's bottom to know if it would fit a transverse.
Thus...
Day 5, Part 1:Mike hasn't been able to get ahold of the welding experts, so the oil pan fix isn't happening yet.
I took the oil feed line to a local supply shop, it was too small to have a larger end put on it, so I had a new line made.
I tried to put my new line ($50, jeez) in, and I couldn't get the threads to grab because there was too much conflict between the turbo/mani flange and some couplers on the line.
Brian came up with an interesting solution.
The aircraft supply shop has fittings of the weeny size that I need, so I headed back over there to see if they had a -3AN -> -4AN converter.
They didn't have one like I need in stock, and don't have enough demand to warrant ordering a bulk of them, and can't order just one, so they gave me the number of a guy in nearby Newnan who is more likely to have it, or know for sure where I can get one. Of course, I didn't think of that simple $3 solution, so more cash down the drain.
The turbo is about to get bolted in once Brian gets here, then I'll be hooking up coolant feed/return, oil return, and pre-turbo intake parts. I'm not sure how I'm going to brace the MAF in it's new position so as to keep it from shaking and taking a dump on me when the car finally runs. I may resort to a zip-tie setup until I can come up with a bracket or something. Actually, I just got an idea for a bracket, sweet.
nismofly - This would all be easier on a B13 since its engine bay isn't as crowded. Being in NY, you could more easily do without AC as well, whick would solve some other problems. I've heard B13 owners who keep their AC have to have a different downpipe setup than non-AC ones. My AC should be well clear of the DP, and we'll heatwrap the AC hose that is quite close to my exhaust mani.
Anyway, once I get all that done we'll work on my downpipe. I have a 90* 2.5in SS bend as well as some straight SS pipe. I'm pretty sure between that we can make what I need. I also got a 2.5in ID SS flexpipe to keep that in order. I'll take the car to an exhaust shop once we get it running and tuned and have a hanger welded in place, as well as possibly have an O2 bung welded into the exhaust after the cat so as to pass emissions. The other option is to get an O2 sim.
As far as EGR, I think I'm going to cap it for now, then sometime between now and December I'll get a pipe made and welded in to my DP to serve for EGR, or at least look like it. That depends on my emissions guy, I'm not sure if the shop I get tested at really does a visual. If they do, I may have to do some talking for them to ignore the capped EGR. I'll probably pay them a visit after the car is running and see if I can make a few friends.
I still say that if my car is polluting less than an H2, it should be legal, but what do I know?
Another update later...
At one point, before I learned that you can't tap the oil pan for oil return on an SR, I was searching for an aftermarket pan to tap and replace the stock one. I didn't find any, but I always searched under FWD SR20 terms. I'd have to see a longitudal SR's bottom to know if it would fit a transverse.
Thus...
Day 5, Part 1:Mike hasn't been able to get ahold of the welding experts, so the oil pan fix isn't happening yet.
I took the oil feed line to a local supply shop, it was too small to have a larger end put on it, so I had a new line made.
I tried to put my new line ($50, jeez) in, and I couldn't get the threads to grab because there was too much conflict between the turbo/mani flange and some couplers on the line.
Brian came up with an interesting solution.
The aircraft supply shop has fittings of the weeny size that I need, so I headed back over there to see if they had a -3AN -> -4AN converter.
They didn't have one like I need in stock, and don't have enough demand to warrant ordering a bulk of them, and can't order just one, so they gave me the number of a guy in nearby Newnan who is more likely to have it, or know for sure where I can get one. Of course, I didn't think of that simple $3 solution, so more cash down the drain.
The turbo is about to get bolted in once Brian gets here, then I'll be hooking up coolant feed/return, oil return, and pre-turbo intake parts. I'm not sure how I'm going to brace the MAF in it's new position so as to keep it from shaking and taking a dump on me when the car finally runs. I may resort to a zip-tie setup until I can come up with a bracket or something. Actually, I just got an idea for a bracket, sweet.
nismofly - This would all be easier on a B13 since its engine bay isn't as crowded. Being in NY, you could more easily do without AC as well, whick would solve some other problems. I've heard B13 owners who keep their AC have to have a different downpipe setup than non-AC ones. My AC should be well clear of the DP, and we'll heatwrap the AC hose that is quite close to my exhaust mani.
Anyway, once I get all that done we'll work on my downpipe. I have a 90* 2.5in SS bend as well as some straight SS pipe. I'm pretty sure between that we can make what I need. I also got a 2.5in ID SS flexpipe to keep that in order. I'll take the car to an exhaust shop once we get it running and tuned and have a hanger welded in place, as well as possibly have an O2 bung welded into the exhaust after the cat so as to pass emissions. The other option is to get an O2 sim.
As far as EGR, I think I'm going to cap it for now, then sometime between now and December I'll get a pipe made and welded in to my DP to serve for EGR, or at least look like it. That depends on my emissions guy, I'm not sure if the shop I get tested at really does a visual. If they do, I may have to do some talking for them to ignore the capped EGR. I'll probably pay them a visit after the car is running and see if I can make a few friends.
I still say that if my car is polluting less than an H2, it should be legal, but what do I know?
Another update later...
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
Day 5, Part 2:
Pretty much nothing got done after I last updated. We tried to bolt in the turbo, but it's contacting the front motor mount. If it were on the studs and bolted in, there would be no contact issues.
So, I think tomorrow when I drop a mount to get the oil pan out, I'll let the engine down a tad before I actually pull the bolt on the mount, so as to have it sit lower in the mount since the crossbeam is not bolted in, that should allow the extra little bit of clearance I need to get the turbo in. For clarification, I mean the motor mount bracket coming off the block to the bushing/crossbeam setup is in the way of the turbo sliding onto the studs. I'll take a pic tomorrow, and I assume that at some point pics will work in this section again.
I attempted to modify the rubber hose that came with my BOV so as to put it at an angle more towards the hole in the corner where the IC piping will come up from the IC. That really didn't work, I just FUBAR'ed the hose. I'm going to get a straight hose, since the bov pipe turns a bit anyway, and cut the hose to a length that will use that turn to put it in the right direction. It's hard rubber, so there won't be a support issue.
Questions:None.
Problems:General issues, nothing that requires a note, as I've covered my solution in the body of the update.
Pretty much nothing got done after I last updated. We tried to bolt in the turbo, but it's contacting the front motor mount. If it were on the studs and bolted in, there would be no contact issues.
So, I think tomorrow when I drop a mount to get the oil pan out, I'll let the engine down a tad before I actually pull the bolt on the mount, so as to have it sit lower in the mount since the crossbeam is not bolted in, that should allow the extra little bit of clearance I need to get the turbo in. For clarification, I mean the motor mount bracket coming off the block to the bushing/crossbeam setup is in the way of the turbo sliding onto the studs. I'll take a pic tomorrow, and I assume that at some point pics will work in this section again.
I attempted to modify the rubber hose that came with my BOV so as to put it at an angle more towards the hole in the corner where the IC piping will come up from the IC. That really didn't work, I just FUBAR'ed the hose. I'm going to get a straight hose, since the bov pipe turns a bit anyway, and cut the hose to a length that will use that turn to put it in the right direction. It's hard rubber, so there won't be a support issue.
Questions:None.
Problems:General issues, nothing that requires a note, as I've covered my solution in the body of the update.
-
RED_DET
- Vendor
- Posts: 5335
- Joined: Tue May 13, 2003 5:07 pm
- Car: 2004 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6 spd
2011 Infiniti G37x
1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R SR20DET
Chevrolet Corvette Z06 - Location: Louisville, KY
- Contact:
t25 actuator should be set to 6-7psi. T28's are around 7-8psi. I don't recall having to do anything w/cross member to get the turbo and manifold bolted back on. I just know it was a PITA getting those hardlines screwed back in the turbo. Lot of cussing and wrench throwing. Finally a buddy watching gives it a try and within minutes he has it threaded.
P.S.No a RWD SR oil pan will not work.
P.S.No a RWD SR oil pan will not work.
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
I can't use any of the hardlines anyway. You should see the contraptions I have coming off that thing, astounding ways of converting sizes to get what I need. It ends up looking decently clean though.
All fittings are attached to the turbo already, and the oil return line is dangling from it, so I won't have too much of an issue getting those in.
I think it's the Avenir manifold, it turns towards the block a little bit at the studded flange. It'll be a GREAT fit once I get that turbo in, tight and clean, but til then it's just a pain. If I had a flange more parallel to the ground I'd have issues clearing the radiator fan shroud with the lines.
My other option is to take off the mani, bolt the turbo back on it, then put it in.
We actually trimmed the wastegate actuator bracket to get clearance for it.
I'm pretty certain this actuator is set for 7psi, my research gave me 7psi for a stock Avenir. However, I'm not sure this actuator is stock. Given the rusty pin that held it in, I'd say it probably is, it looks like it was never taken off til I took it off yesterday working with clearance issues dropping the turbo in. There's no Nissan symbol on it anywhere that I can find.
The B15 engine bay is a bit more crowded than yours, Michael.
Like I said, once it's in it'll fit like a dream. The only real clearance issue I'm concerned with is the IC piping and the AC lines, as well as the foglights. I think I can sneak past both with some effort.
All fittings are attached to the turbo already, and the oil return line is dangling from it, so I won't have too much of an issue getting those in.
I think it's the Avenir manifold, it turns towards the block a little bit at the studded flange. It'll be a GREAT fit once I get that turbo in, tight and clean, but til then it's just a pain. If I had a flange more parallel to the ground I'd have issues clearing the radiator fan shroud with the lines.
My other option is to take off the mani, bolt the turbo back on it, then put it in.
We actually trimmed the wastegate actuator bracket to get clearance for it.
I'm pretty certain this actuator is set for 7psi, my research gave me 7psi for a stock Avenir. However, I'm not sure this actuator is stock. Given the rusty pin that held it in, I'd say it probably is, it looks like it was never taken off til I took it off yesterday working with clearance issues dropping the turbo in. There's no Nissan symbol on it anywhere that I can find.
The B15 engine bay is a bit more crowded than yours, Michael.
Like I said, once it's in it'll fit like a dream. The only real clearance issue I'm concerned with is the IC piping and the AC lines, as well as the foglights. I think I can sneak past both with some effort.
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
Day 6:
After about 4 hours of work, the turbo is on, coolant feed/return is complete, oil return is almost ready, as is oil feed (need fittings for both). The intake turndown (post turbo) is in. The exhaust turndown isn't (yet).
Sooo, how did it happen?
Brian and I dropped the front-rear motor mount crossmember down a bit, effectively making the engine sag on it's two lateral mounts. This allowed for more clearance putting the turbo in.
That wasn't enough.
The wastegate actuator was still contacting the metal tube I've mentioned earlier, I want to say someone said PCV, but I forgot the name of it and it's function.
So, out came the Dremel again.
We trimmed that tube then flared the end by making a set of grooves, then bending the metal back a little. The rubber tube running from there up to the valve cover isn't going anywhere now.
That of course makes a problem.
We looked at a picture of a stock Avenir engine bay and noticed that was the location of the oil catch can. It appears that the previous user of the parts neglected to use the can, as there is some oil in the bov and intake tube. We, however, have a solution.
There is a small filter you can buy that will fit that tube, according to Mike. I forgot exactly what the filter is actually for, but it will work.
The metal tube coming off the block was hard to cut because of it's location and my very brittle Dremel cut-off wheels. We cut it as best we could, then used some careful persuasion to get it to come off.
(socks used to keep metal shavings from the cutting from getting into the exhaust ports)
We made sure to smooth the cut after that with another Dremel attachment.
Before that we'd taken off the manifold, which I bolted to the turbo while the cutting was going on. We then dropped that whole unit in from the top, connected the intake turndown, and set to work on the pre-turbo intake setup.
(you can easily see our apparently pointless actuator bracket modifications)
The stock Avenir intake tube is too long and has strange bends, so I may have to use some "persuasion" to get it to work right too. It turns too far to the back of the engine bay and too far up, so it ends up pointing the MAF/filter arrangement into the strut tower/strut tower bar. I need the inputs on the intake tube though, so I'll have to come up with something.
Questions:How should I fashion this intake tube to make it fit? just cut and clamp it to the MAF?How should I keep the pre-turbo intake assembly in a decent state of non-floppiness? MAF's don't like lots of movement.
Problems:Nothing much, just gotta take more time and energy to fix stuff. A few more bucks in fittings will, hopefully, be the last dollars I have to spend on that.
edit: Tried to post pics again, no worky still. Geo is doing the webmaster stuff, right? I'll let him know.
After about 4 hours of work, the turbo is on, coolant feed/return is complete, oil return is almost ready, as is oil feed (need fittings for both). The intake turndown (post turbo) is in. The exhaust turndown isn't (yet).
Sooo, how did it happen?
Brian and I dropped the front-rear motor mount crossmember down a bit, effectively making the engine sag on it's two lateral mounts. This allowed for more clearance putting the turbo in.
That wasn't enough.
The wastegate actuator was still contacting the metal tube I've mentioned earlier, I want to say someone said PCV, but I forgot the name of it and it's function.
So, out came the Dremel again.
We trimmed that tube then flared the end by making a set of grooves, then bending the metal back a little. The rubber tube running from there up to the valve cover isn't going anywhere now.
That of course makes a problem.
We looked at a picture of a stock Avenir engine bay and noticed that was the location of the oil catch can. It appears that the previous user of the parts neglected to use the can, as there is some oil in the bov and intake tube. We, however, have a solution.
There is a small filter you can buy that will fit that tube, according to Mike. I forgot exactly what the filter is actually for, but it will work.
The metal tube coming off the block was hard to cut because of it's location and my very brittle Dremel cut-off wheels. We cut it as best we could, then used some careful persuasion to get it to come off.
(socks used to keep metal shavings from the cutting from getting into the exhaust ports)
We made sure to smooth the cut after that with another Dremel attachment.
Before that we'd taken off the manifold, which I bolted to the turbo while the cutting was going on. We then dropped that whole unit in from the top, connected the intake turndown, and set to work on the pre-turbo intake setup.
(you can easily see our apparently pointless actuator bracket modifications)
The stock Avenir intake tube is too long and has strange bends, so I may have to use some "persuasion" to get it to work right too. It turns too far to the back of the engine bay and too far up, so it ends up pointing the MAF/filter arrangement into the strut tower/strut tower bar. I need the inputs on the intake tube though, so I'll have to come up with something.
Questions:How should I fashion this intake tube to make it fit? just cut and clamp it to the MAF?How should I keep the pre-turbo intake assembly in a decent state of non-floppiness? MAF's don't like lots of movement.
Problems:Nothing much, just gotta take more time and energy to fix stuff. A few more bucks in fittings will, hopefully, be the last dollars I have to spend on that.
edit: Tried to post pics again, no worky still. Geo is doing the webmaster stuff, right? I'll let him know.
-
RED_DET
- Vendor
- Posts: 5335
- Joined: Tue May 13, 2003 5:07 pm
- Car: 2004 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6 spd
2011 Infiniti G37x
1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R SR20DET
Chevrolet Corvette Z06 - Location: Louisville, KY
- Contact:
If the avenir intake tube is like the blue bird, its a hard plastic right? You should be able to cut some off and still be able to get the maf to slide in and clamp it down. You should be able to get the fit tight enough in the engine bay to not have to worry about the maf flopping around. If not, fabricate a bracket that runs from one of the bolts on the maf adapter plate and run it to one of the 3 top strut bolts.
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
Yeah, that was the plan. There's a ribbed portion of the Avenir intake tube that's flexible enough to clamp to the MAF.
As for securing it, I think the hard plastic of the tube will do well, but it has a small bracket on it that I may attach something to, but I was thinking of using a MAF plate bolt too. I may use both for extra stability.
I hadn't thought of using the strut tower for support though, good call.
As for securing it, I think the hard plastic of the tube will do well, but it has a small bracket on it that I may attach something to, but I was thinking of using a MAF plate bolt too. I may use both for extra stability.
I hadn't thought of using the strut tower for support though, good call.
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
Days 7-9:
School started on Monday, which has severely messed with my ability to work on the car much.
No matter, I've got the oil pan patched together well enough to last me til I can get a new one and a patience to get said new pan in. I'm having trouble with one of the bolts that goes into the transmission though, it gets real tight real quick and I'm afraid I'm cross-threading it. I'll play with it some more, I definitely need that bolt to get a good seal.
My intercooler piping arrived yesterday. It looks like I'll need two straight cuts and a somewhat tricky angle cut, but it's quite easy to put together, definitely a good kit and cheap. I could use one more silicone clamp though. I'll use a rubber one in a non-hot area til I can order another silicon one (or get a union or two welded). It looks like the intake will fit quite well too underneath some of that. The bumper even slides on pretty easily, foglamps and all.
I've got a fitting on order to fix my oil feed line issues. The turbo actually has a -4an input (1/4"), my line is -3an (3/16" or 1/8" not totally sure), bolts great onto the oil sending tee from SPL, but doesn't get onto my oil feed fitting on the turbo. A -3 to -4 converter will be here Friday.
My injectors are still MIA. I ordered them 16 days ago. I emailed Overboost Store yesterday and have yet to receive a response. This doesn't make me happy. I got an order confirmation email, but not shipping email or anything. I didn't make an account with them when I ordered cause I doubted I'd ever use them again and didn't want to take the time.
I definitely won't order again.
I can't access order status because I don't have an account, and I can't establish an account that could access that order now.
This is what I get for not ordering from a sponsor.
Anyway, I've got some little stuff I've got to get, another fitting and some heat wrap, screw clamps and some hard rubber hose.
Questions:The tube coming from the valve cover has two points on my intake setup where it could go in. There's one on the Avenir intake pipe, and another on the Avenir BOV. Which should I hook it to?
Also, the other one will then be open. I know it's not exactly well, within regulations, but could I hook my EGR to the open one and just suck fresh air for my EGR til I set up a more legal one, then plug the unused hole?
Problems:Crappy injector provider selection.
School started on Monday, which has severely messed with my ability to work on the car much.
No matter, I've got the oil pan patched together well enough to last me til I can get a new one and a patience to get said new pan in. I'm having trouble with one of the bolts that goes into the transmission though, it gets real tight real quick and I'm afraid I'm cross-threading it. I'll play with it some more, I definitely need that bolt to get a good seal.
My intercooler piping arrived yesterday. It looks like I'll need two straight cuts and a somewhat tricky angle cut, but it's quite easy to put together, definitely a good kit and cheap. I could use one more silicone clamp though. I'll use a rubber one in a non-hot area til I can order another silicon one (or get a union or two welded). It looks like the intake will fit quite well too underneath some of that. The bumper even slides on pretty easily, foglamps and all.
I've got a fitting on order to fix my oil feed line issues. The turbo actually has a -4an input (1/4"), my line is -3an (3/16" or 1/8" not totally sure), bolts great onto the oil sending tee from SPL, but doesn't get onto my oil feed fitting on the turbo. A -3 to -4 converter will be here Friday.
My injectors are still MIA. I ordered them 16 days ago. I emailed Overboost Store yesterday and have yet to receive a response. This doesn't make me happy. I got an order confirmation email, but not shipping email or anything. I didn't make an account with them when I ordered cause I doubted I'd ever use them again and didn't want to take the time.
I definitely won't order again.
I can't access order status because I don't have an account, and I can't establish an account that could access that order now.
This is what I get for not ordering from a sponsor.
Anyway, I've got some little stuff I've got to get, another fitting and some heat wrap, screw clamps and some hard rubber hose.
Questions:The tube coming from the valve cover has two points on my intake setup where it could go in. There's one on the Avenir intake pipe, and another on the Avenir BOV. Which should I hook it to?
Also, the other one will then be open. I know it's not exactly well, within regulations, but could I hook my EGR to the open one and just suck fresh air for my EGR til I set up a more legal one, then plug the unused hole?
Problems:Crappy injector provider selection.
-
RED_DET
- Vendor
- Posts: 5335
- Joined: Tue May 13, 2003 5:07 pm
- Car: 2004 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6 spd
2011 Infiniti G37x
1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R SR20DET
Chevrolet Corvette Z06 - Location: Louisville, KY
- Contact:
The line running from the valve cover needs to be run to the intake pipe and the BOV needs to be run to the intake pipe as well so it is then recirculated.
I don't think you can hook the EGR that way, it is looking for Exhaust Gases, just leave it un hooked until you can fabricate another way to hook it up to the manifold if you choose. It will only throw a CEL, won't effect driveablility.
I don't think you can hook the EGR that way, it is looking for Exhaust Gases, just leave it un hooked until you can fabricate another way to hook it up to the manifold if you choose. It will only throw a CEL, won't effect driveablility.
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
A ha, I thought it would suck whatever it could find.
But there's the issue - the BOV has several outlets, Mike and I tried to figure out exactly what matches with what.
The tiny one up top is the same size on one as the wastegate actuator. I assume that this is how the actuator gets a pressure reading and opens.
The one on the back that you can't really see matches up with a weeny one coming from the intake mani, I can't remember the exact name at the moment, but whatever. This line coming off the BOV T's into two, I gather that one goes to the intake mani, and the other matches up with the small tube from the intake pipe?
The gold one matches up with the VC outlet, as well as one of the intake pipe's hoses, that's the one I asked about earlier.
Lastly, there's the biggest one (lower right) that isn't part of the plumbing of the path to the intake manifold, there's a large opening on the intake pipe that I thought matches up, and I thought that was the recirc.
Then again, that doesn't leave an open hole for release, duh.
So the largest BOV opening (right middle) is the vent, the gold bov opening is the recirc, the back one goes to the intake mani and T's to the intake pipe, and the weeny (green) one goes to the wastegate actuator?
Probably not smart that I didn't figure this out before starting the project.
But there's the issue - the BOV has several outlets, Mike and I tried to figure out exactly what matches with what.
The tiny one up top is the same size on one as the wastegate actuator. I assume that this is how the actuator gets a pressure reading and opens.
The one on the back that you can't really see matches up with a weeny one coming from the intake mani, I can't remember the exact name at the moment, but whatever. This line coming off the BOV T's into two, I gather that one goes to the intake mani, and the other matches up with the small tube from the intake pipe?
The gold one matches up with the VC outlet, as well as one of the intake pipe's hoses, that's the one I asked about earlier.
Lastly, there's the biggest one (lower right) that isn't part of the plumbing of the path to the intake manifold, there's a large opening on the intake pipe that I thought matches up, and I thought that was the recirc.
Then again, that doesn't leave an open hole for release, duh.
So the largest BOV opening (right middle) is the vent, the gold bov opening is the recirc, the back one goes to the intake mani and T's to the intake pipe, and the weeny (green) one goes to the wastegate actuator?
Probably not smart that I didn't figure this out before starting the project.
-
RED_DET
- Vendor
- Posts: 5335
- Joined: Tue May 13, 2003 5:07 pm
- Car: 2004 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6 spd
2011 Infiniti G37x
1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R SR20DET
Chevrolet Corvette Z06 - Location: Louisville, KY
- Contact:
The line coming from the top of the BOV runs to the back of the motor just underneath one of the intake runners. The opening coming directly from the BOV is the recirculate line, which runs to the intake tube. You can leave that hose unhooked to vent to the atomosphere, but you more than likely have stalling issues. The big opening on the opposite of the black elbow needs to be plumbed into the intercooler piping. The gold bottom line runs to the intake manifold as well.
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
There's a line on the back side that is the same size as the intake runner line, you can see the hose sticking out to the right. That was my confusion with the top one and that.
This is the actuator input I was talking about...
Yes, that trimming of the bracket became unnecessary once we cut the pipe covered in the white-ish hose, oh well.
I don't intend on venting to atmosphere if that's a recirc, recircing is smart, and atmosphere vents sound retarded, IMO.
Here's the intake pipe from the Avenir.
There are 3 inputs. I reasoned that the one on the left goes to the VC pipe. The one on the right matches up with that small hose on the back of the BOV, size wise. The one in the middle matches up with the 2nd largest opening on the BOV (right, just above the pipe that is the inlet from the IC piping).
Oh wait, I just re-read the part about the gold one in your post. Where on the intake mani does it go? I didn't have an input that size running from my CAI to my intake mani, it was simply connected to the VC outlet and the small tube on the back (firewall) side of the intake mani.
edit: That back line T's with a very small hose on it, would the top of that T go into the top of the BOV outlet? That would make some sense. Then what would I do with the small outlet on the intake pipe?
This is the actuator input I was talking about...
Yes, that trimming of the bracket became unnecessary once we cut the pipe covered in the white-ish hose, oh well.
I don't intend on venting to atmosphere if that's a recirc, recircing is smart, and atmosphere vents sound retarded, IMO.
Here's the intake pipe from the Avenir.
There are 3 inputs. I reasoned that the one on the left goes to the VC pipe. The one on the right matches up with that small hose on the back of the BOV, size wise. The one in the middle matches up with the 2nd largest opening on the BOV (right, just above the pipe that is the inlet from the IC piping).
Oh wait, I just re-read the part about the gold one in your post. Where on the intake mani does it go? I didn't have an input that size running from my CAI to my intake mani, it was simply connected to the VC outlet and the small tube on the back (firewall) side of the intake mani.
edit: That back line T's with a very small hose on it, would the top of that T go into the top of the BOV outlet? That would make some sense. Then what would I do with the small outlet on the intake pipe?
-
RED_DET
- Vendor
- Posts: 5335
- Joined: Tue May 13, 2003 5:07 pm
- Car: 2004 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6 spd
2011 Infiniti G37x
1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R SR20DET
Chevrolet Corvette Z06 - Location: Louisville, KY
- Contact:
Lets try this again. The line on top of the BOV runs to the back of the intake manifold. Its a PITA to get too, trust me. The opening on the BOV runs to the intake tube, so that it is recir. The other opening on the intake tube runs to the valve cover. The othe opening by the black elbow runs to intake manifold as well, around the throttle body. The line running from teh actuator needs to run into the intercooler piping, preferably before the bov. The way you are holding the bov and pipe in your hand, turn it the other way and that is how it should set. That pipe and bov is a small piece of an actual tmic setup that has been cut. The pipe normally looks like a U. The other small line coming off the intake tube can be blocked off with a screw. That is how mine is setup along with the others in this area that used the intake pipe from a blue bird or avenir
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
Alright, I think I've got it now.
The only thing is, there was no line going from my old intake to the intake mani except the very small one (you're saying the gold one on the BOV must also connect to the intake mani near the TB). I'll take a look, I'm sure it's there. By the way, why do I have that rubber hose of the same size as the small one on the intake tube that is to be blocked off on the back of the BOV (you can't really see it in that pic, I'll get a better one if needed) that T's into two seperate hoses if the opening on top of the BOV goes to the intake mani? That line seems to have no purpose.
Almost done with this thing, I can't wait .
Got my oil feed 3-to-4 adapter in yesterday afternoon, so I'll be able to put it on hopefully today or tomorrow, depending on what else happens. I'll need to make another little parts run this weekend as well for some hoses, clamps, and heatwrapping.
I've finally got my oil return setup fixed too, so I'll be able to put fluids back in the car in the next day or so.
My injectors are still MIA. This is really frustrating.
Just out of curiosity, would it be okay for me to start the car without my new injectors in yet?
I want to start it and run some oil through it for a few minutes, then change the oil and filter again to make sure any miniscule shavings and such that may have somehow escaped us get caught in the filter and oil before they have a chance to go flying through the engine on full boost and cause major problems. I figure since there will be no load, that should be fine, but I also figured I'd ask the expert.
The only thing is, there was no line going from my old intake to the intake mani except the very small one (you're saying the gold one on the BOV must also connect to the intake mani near the TB). I'll take a look, I'm sure it's there. By the way, why do I have that rubber hose of the same size as the small one on the intake tube that is to be blocked off on the back of the BOV (you can't really see it in that pic, I'll get a better one if needed) that T's into two seperate hoses if the opening on top of the BOV goes to the intake mani? That line seems to have no purpose.
Almost done with this thing, I can't wait .
Got my oil feed 3-to-4 adapter in yesterday afternoon, so I'll be able to put it on hopefully today or tomorrow, depending on what else happens. I'll need to make another little parts run this weekend as well for some hoses, clamps, and heatwrapping.
I've finally got my oil return setup fixed too, so I'll be able to put fluids back in the car in the next day or so.
My injectors are still MIA. This is really frustrating.
Just out of curiosity, would it be okay for me to start the car without my new injectors in yet?
I want to start it and run some oil through it for a few minutes, then change the oil and filter again to make sure any miniscule shavings and such that may have somehow escaped us get caught in the filter and oil before they have a chance to go flying through the engine on full boost and cause major problems. I figure since there will be no load, that should be fine, but I also figured I'd ask the expert.
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
Annnnnd...
an update!
By the end of this weekend I should be able to start the car and find out if it runs, but not drive it.
Intercooler piping is almost done, we found that we had to do some more work up top to get it to line up with the throttle body. I'll post pics of how it's routed with explanations of what we cut and such when we finish the last bit.
After that, with a couple more connections in place, it'll be time to put fluids back in the car.
I'll also be making the measurements for my downpipe, then having it cut and welded to fit.
After that, we'll drop the car, reconnect the battery, and give it a shot. If it runs, we know everything is set up right and then it's just time to wait for the injectors.
Now, the injectors.
Overboost did not respond to the email I sent last week. Wednesday night I sent them another email asking about what was going on.
No response.
So yesterday, upon finding no response, I called them and, of course, got their voicemail. I left a message.
I then decided to take it to the experts.
I talked to my mom and she volunteered to call and write them another email. She also got the voicemail and left a message.
Sooooo...
Finally today I got a response. They say that the MSD 34lb/hr injectors were out of stock at the time of my order, and that they began doing system upgrades right after, so their shipping system is still down and they can't send me anything.
Personally, I don't see why they can't use pen and paper til their system is back up.
I hate cliche, but I'm going to use one.
"A mess up on your part doesn't constitute an emergency on mine."
Personally, I feel that they should find them in their warehouse and express ship them to me, and do the same for all the other customers getting this response, if that's really the case.
I have a vague suspicion, however, that this has nothing at all to do with a system issue and everything to do with a laziness or a lack of the product altogether.
Therefore I contacted my local shop a few minutes ago and asked them to locate the same injectors for me. Monday they will be calling me with a price. If I don't have a shipping email from Overboost by then (they said they would inform me when they ship), I'll have Allspeed get them and cancel my order with Overboost.
I could be entirely wrong, they may be being completely honest, but I need to get this car running, so I've got to do whatever is going to be the fastest.
That said, I will have the car running and drivable middle of or late next week.
an update!
By the end of this weekend I should be able to start the car and find out if it runs, but not drive it.
Intercooler piping is almost done, we found that we had to do some more work up top to get it to line up with the throttle body. I'll post pics of how it's routed with explanations of what we cut and such when we finish the last bit.
After that, with a couple more connections in place, it'll be time to put fluids back in the car.
I'll also be making the measurements for my downpipe, then having it cut and welded to fit.
After that, we'll drop the car, reconnect the battery, and give it a shot. If it runs, we know everything is set up right and then it's just time to wait for the injectors.
Now, the injectors.
Overboost did not respond to the email I sent last week. Wednesday night I sent them another email asking about what was going on.
No response.
So yesterday, upon finding no response, I called them and, of course, got their voicemail. I left a message.
I then decided to take it to the experts.
I talked to my mom and she volunteered to call and write them another email. She also got the voicemail and left a message.
Sooooo...
Finally today I got a response. They say that the MSD 34lb/hr injectors were out of stock at the time of my order, and that they began doing system upgrades right after, so their shipping system is still down and they can't send me anything.
Personally, I don't see why they can't use pen and paper til their system is back up.
I hate cliche, but I'm going to use one.
"A mess up on your part doesn't constitute an emergency on mine."
Personally, I feel that they should find them in their warehouse and express ship them to me, and do the same for all the other customers getting this response, if that's really the case.
I have a vague suspicion, however, that this has nothing at all to do with a system issue and everything to do with a laziness or a lack of the product altogether.
Therefore I contacted my local shop a few minutes ago and asked them to locate the same injectors for me. Monday they will be calling me with a price. If I don't have a shipping email from Overboost by then (they said they would inform me when they ship), I'll have Allspeed get them and cancel my order with Overboost.
I could be entirely wrong, they may be being completely honest, but I need to get this car running, so I've got to do whatever is going to be the fastest.
That said, I will have the car running and drivable middle of or late next week.
-
nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
Return to “Sentra Forum / Infiniti G20 Forum / Pulsar / NX Forum”