You will be maxing out those 34lb injectors around 12-14psi on the T25. 444cc injectors will allow for more head room of around 280hp.

Gotcha.

The 444s are quick sellers , but I'm looking.

Finally, an update:

I'm going to have to get a shorter oil return line, fun.Coolant stuff is done.Oil feed is done.IC piping is done.lots of things are done, actually.

Anyway, the not done list is as follows:1. New oil return line (shorter)2. Downpipe, getting flanges this week, probably make it Sunday if I can get the chance3. Boost gauge install, need a hose for this, going to order it with the new oil line later today4. Pre-turbo intake setup. It's close, but my massive recirc hose is too durn big outside, and very very tight on the inside.5. Injectors, still. Fortunately, I just fired my previous supplier and located one who actually can get me my injectors, and for something like $12 cheaper PER INJECTOR! Why didn't I go to local places first?

Is that it? I think it is! Just refill with fluids, reconnect the battery, drop the car and start her up! Wow. Monday or Tuesday next week I should get the injectors. So, hopefully, that day will be the last day of waiting. It's a lot easier to get motivated to work on her when I know that my injectors are going to be here soon.

So, a question:Seems like I've heard of a tube running off the tranny on 240s that ends in just open air and is a "tranny breather."

While connecting my BOV->intake mani vac hose, I noticed that the old hose was attached via a plastic clip to one with a open end that runs back down to the tranny. It had no clamp on the open end, so my guess was this "breather" thing. Is this correct?

Just making sure I didn't knock if off something else.

BTW, I still have no idea what this connects to...What's the torquoise one? You mentioned that it goes somewhere on the intake mani too, but there was no such line on the stock setup...

Vrooom...

edit: The stock wastegate actuator is set for 7psi on this setup. I'll need to have a drivable fuel setup to limp to my tuning shop, any idea what sort of correction factor (SAFCII) to use (besides keep it below 10% throttle, haha) so that I can keep up with traffic on the way over? I doubt I'll hit boost on the way over, but I'd like to be safe, so I figure I can just run rich on the way over.

Did some hunting and found out that it was for highports, has to do with the idle. Goes to the intake mani, as RED said. The lowport doesn't have it for whatever reason. Plugged it shall be.

Thus, vac routing is done.

I can't seem to find a 3 bolt flange to match up with my exhaust turndown from the Avenir (same as stock exhaust mani flange from my Sentra stuff, still can't). Any idea? I Googled a few things and located a couple custom flange shops, I'll contact one I guess.

Just make sure that there isn't a vacuum source running underneath the throttle body for the torqouise connection. So you are telling me on your stock intake tube, there isn't a larger vacuum hose connection?

Yes the line on the tranny should be open air breather tube. Connects to the tranny, but just lays in the engine compartment.

Autozone normallys carries those 3 bolt flanges.

I would say 10% rich across the board on low throttle settings should be fine.

Alrighty. I was thinking 10-15%, sounds like I was close.

On my stock intake/on my old intake system there were two. One large, one small. The very small one was the line running to the back of the intake mani right behind the TB. The larger ran to the VC, where I will now simply have a small filtered breather.

^old pic

Kinda hard to see, but you see the larger line clearly running to the VC. Opposite it on the back of the pipe is a smaller one. Just those two.

They say a picture's worth a thousand words:

Finishing over the weekend, dyno tune on Monday, if at all possible.

I can't wait till you get that thing running and tuned out. You will be happier than a pig in sh*t, trust me.

Well, we're so close it hurts.

The boost gauge is pretty much installed. I don't have a screw long enough to reach my mounting point, but other than that it's ready.

I'm having a nagging oil pan problem, I've worked with it off and on during all this downtime and I'm not sure how to fix it. There's a plate, presumably a gasket-ish thing, between the tranny and oil pan/engine assembly, it provides a seal. For whatever reason, it seems to have cocked forward a little so that the hole in the plate doesn't quite match with the holes in the two pieces it is between, so I can't get a bolt to completely thread, it gets really tight really fast, but only on the rearward side, the front bolt goes through and locks down great. I'm wondering if I've mixed up some bolts, the rear bolt is notably longer than the front. Then again, the unthreaded/threaded portions line up as they should for their respective holes, so I'm not sure what's up. I can get the bolt in quite a bit, but I'm not sure I trust it to not leak oil.

The injectors are still in their bags, waiting. It's been recommended to me that I get everything else done and start it up, then install the injectors, which kind of makes sense, it will probably start/idle really rough when I first put the injectors in, but maybe I'm making things up in my head.

Lastly, the downpipe is still awaiting assembly. The problem lies in the fact that 1. Mike (navysnail) can't get ahold of his buddy who can weld it for me and 2. that this same welder is going to have to make me a flange, which isn't a problem except for the fact that, as stated, we can't get him today.

So, I could put oil in it (coolant/water/water-wetter mix is already in) and start it, barring said oil pan seal issue, but I'd go deaf, and I couldn't drive it... and I'd probably kill a few woodland creatures with my dirty exhaust. Personally, I would like to start it anyway (after figuring out the oil pan seal), but I'm not sure how well that would go over with parents/neighbors.

This is a great thread! Post up more pics and I can't wait to see what #'s you gat out of it!

This is a pretty blurry pic, but I think you'll figure out the problem:stock on left, MSD on right

How is it that I read about guys running MSD 72lb'ers if the connectors are different? Where can I get an adapter?

I knew that MSDs were Bosch style, but everything I could figure out said they'd fit. I assume that this is where the difference between Bosch and the other one that I can't remember the name of shows up.

I think I'm in Hell.

After all that crap about injectors, I discovered last night that plug issue.

Today, I drop in to Autozone to see about an adapter.

Of course, one of their guys points out something much more damning than a simple wrong kind of plug, something I should have seen very easily.

The MSDs are physically the wrong size. It would require some changes at least to the fuel rail bolts (make them longer) and possibly to the input holes on the fuel rail themselves to make these 34lb'ers fit.

How this happened, I don't know. I know there are guys running MSD injectors on their Sentras. Whatever, now I need to find SOMETHING that fits ASAP.

Edit: Mr. Autozoneman fooled me into being blind, the injectors are longer, but the holes in which they slide are the same. Apparently Nissan has spacers. Two of those per bolt, coupled with some longer bolts, and voila, we have fitment... that is, once I figure out this whole deal with the different kinds of plugs.
Modified by nametakennow at 7:22 PM 10/13/2005

Yeah it's not super easy to bost a N/A car. Good Luck and keep pounding it out.

Where ever you bought the MSD's at should sell the new harness connectors too.

RED_DET wrote:Where ever you bought the MSD's at should sell the new harness connectors too.

Yep, you just need to switch connectors.

Kuah at SPL might be able to help you with those.

Got the connectors figured out. I asked around and finally got a part# at Autozone, got 3/4 yesterday and will be getting the last later this week.

I also finally found that weird flange. It matches up with the Z32 downpipe flange, which I've sourced from JWT... should be here late Thursday, if I'm thinking correctly (3-day shipping). I should have the injectors done by then, and I have school off on Friday, so if it all works out we'll have a dyno tune on Friday, and pics/vids galore.

Once all that gets done I'll buckle down one night over the weekend and make a full write-up and upload some more of the install pics, maybe send it to the Articles crew and throw a link to this thread in it for reference.

Sounds great!

Write up will become a sticky as well!

Check NICO Gen for full details, but basically the car runs, though it has a small oil leak at the oil return line. The compression fitting isn't quite square on, I'll work with it tomorrow.

It idled beautifully, threw a code or two, presumably the lack of O2 sensors and EGR, haha.

But it runs! Amazing. My parents are amazed and thrilled, of course.

More complete info later!

edit- idle vid: http://www.q45.org/gallery/d/60-1/108-0883_MVI.AVI
Modified by nametakennow at 11:19 PM 10/20/2005

Good job! Now get that piece tuned.

Hey Mike, I'm putting in a set of VERY conservative fuel maps... I know we said 10%, but Geo says his turbo KA with 370s has 10% at low throttle and that's tuned, so I bumped it to 13 or so, sound good?

Also, should I just make it 13 up to 15 by 2000rpm or so and then 15 across the board? I won't be hitting more than 2.5k til I get it tuned, do I need more fuel in that area?

You want need anymore fuel than that if you aren't going into boost.

Thought so, I'm just paranoid.