So D U think that I should check Airflow meter and connection and then go from there? MAF was my first guess but, the strong fuel smell threw me off. I have a couple of these in my trunk anyway so I will try this and pull codes there after. Any other suggestions welcomed D and others. Just wish this rain would lift . I'm trying to avoid towing my Q home but, I will see once I get back to where it's at.Q45tech wrote:MAF connector or MAF internal...................Of course biased since we never see injector oring or injector failures.
Wes it was at Idle after I had released Fuel pressure with fuse removal and priming and restarting. Yes MAF got it started and back on the road just curious about the fuel pressureelwesso wrote:did you just check it with priming the fuel pump? or was that at idle?
so it did end up being the MAF?
2.5 ±.5 turns out regardless of ECU, which don't change anything below 2500 rpm.PopPop wrote: Plus what is the proper setting for the IAC turns out on adjustment screws on a bone stock Q and does this change if using a Nico ECU. I'm stock as of now!
maxnix wrote:2.5 ±.5 turns out regardless of ECU, which don't change anything below 2500 rpm.
If It takes more than 3.5 turns out from the bottom to acheive what D? I know on some other models I have worked on they don't recommend U adjust IAC until 10 minutes or more has passed at initial start up and depending on air temp. U are probably like me in that when I take something apart especially my own I take extra care in replacing or atleast cleaning all dirty parts before reassembling.Q45tech wrote:If it takes more than 3.5 turns out from bottomed, then there is not standard [low air] flow under the closed throttle plate [dirty TB].
The air has only 2 normal ways into plenum at idle [under Throttle plate or thru IAC]........... at cruise PCV and EGR are additional air paths.
Actually PCV can add a small amount of air at idle [kind of rpm dependent] fast idle could be like cruise vs warm idle minor amount.