the "no break in" break in method: results so far

[fiznat]

Just thought I'd share some of my experiences with the break in procedure I decided to go with on my KA-T engine. As many of you are aware, I decided to go with the "no break in" method. I built the motor, drove it to the dyno (23 miles away), and tuned the sucker right away. I spent probably about a half hour on the dyno at first (probably a total of another 20 miles or so), just applying different amounts of load and RPM to give it a LITTLE break in, and then we started doing full on WOT pulls.

Once my car was tuned I drove her home, and did pretty much whatever I wanted with the throttle. I go WOT all the time, trying things out and getting used to the car.. make no mistake I have made NO effort to "go easy on her" or anything like that.

I did a compression test yesterday, with 523 miles on the clock since the rebuild: 165, 165, 165, 165

Note that this is with 8.5:1 compression pistons as well, and NO added oil to the cyls of course.

I am very happy with the way things are going right now... I just thought I would share my experiences with you guys about this break in procedure since there is often a lot of hearsay and opinion with no actual, real results. Well here they are: no break in seems to be working just great.

EDIT: I have been using 10w-40 Castrol GTX oil, which I have changed (along with the filter) 3 times so far:

1st change: at the dyno after the initial 30 miles or so2nd change: at about 200 miles3rd change: at 450 miles


Modified by fiznat at 3:48 PM 5/11/2005

[DRIFTEADOR]

you never changed the oil?

[fiznat]

Yeah I've changed the oil and filter 3 times now, sorry I forgot to mention that. Still using dyno oil for now, I'll switch over to synthetic after a little while I think.

[DRIFTEADOR]

good stuff. thats what i've heard before too: change the oil after a few minutes of running then break in the motor like you intend to run it.

[Nismo_Freak]

Fiz... get ahold of a leakdown tester.

That will give you a better indication of the break-in

[somthin240]

yep, I had the same great experience with my "no break in" on my Subaru, I bought it right off the boat so no cheesehead kid could test drive it. from the first minute I got off the lot I got on it and have ever since. I haven't done a compression check yet but after riding in my car with less done than my friends they all think mine is faster. which I know is subjective but it's all I got.

[slipnfall]

Bump one for the lack of break-in. I have roughly 1300mi on a stock DE rebuild. Compression is all above 169-170, only 2-3 psi difference(don't remember the exact #'s). Unlike you though fiz I didn't have a dyno near me to ensure a proper tune. I too 'went easy' for the first 20+ miles just to be sure everything else was hooked up/running properly. I had some vaccuum issues that became apparent, but after everything was fixed I didn't hold back. I'v only hit redline once or twice, but that's because I know my valve adjustment is a little off, and don't want to push it *too* much. Otherwise I'v been taking it WOT whenever I feel like it.

Compression test only really tells the condition of the rings' seals, correct(and block-head seal)? Leakdown would show valve seals also?

Glad to hear it 'fiz. I'm assuming this wasn' t just a stock breakin?(turbo too?). What psi did you tune for?

Cheers,-Slip

[HolyShiznit]

Fiz, I thought you had a brand new clutch? Did you not break that in? Cause I was going to do the no break in break in, but I am gonn ahve a brand new 6 puck.....

[WDRacing]

If you refrain from maxing out the torque rating of the clutch and don't launch or drop the clutch at to high of an RPM you'll be fine. I just went through this myself. Just don't take it to the drags and beat it up.

Fiz, what oil and how often were you changing it? Add that to the original post so members don't miss it.

WD

[HolyShiznit]

Thanks WD, my only fear is that I will take my new SPEC stg 4 (thanks again WD) out to the dyno and make (safe guess) 450whp and do some damage to it. That's what I don't want.

And Fiz if you could tell us when you changed your oil that would be good too.

[fiznat]

oil information added to the first post ^^

I have been using 10w-40 Castrol GTX oil, which I have changed (along with the filter) 3 times so far:

1st change: at the dyno after the initial 30 miles or so2nd change: at about 200 miles3rd change: at 450 miles

[deezlins]

I was talking to Ben Strader (super experienced professional tuner) at a class one time and asked him about the whole break-in procedure thing. He said that if you look at the clylinder walls like under a microscope they will be kind of jagged and pointy and if you dont run hard enough that the heat will kind of make them harder and they wont really wear away, but if you run it hard enough it will wear the walls smoother before they have a chance to harden like that, and i guess seal better. Atleast thats what I think I remember him pretty much saying.

[DRIFTEADOR]

i hope he didnt use the same terminology

the walls should be cross hatched to retain some oil for lubrication. if they glaze over, or smooth out, they won't seal better, but apparently that ~43 miles was long enough for the rings to seat.

[chad_KAT]

Well thats cool... when my motor is done im going to atleast give it 100miles of babying before the dyno.

[deezlins]

i hope he didnt use the same terminology

the walls should be cross hatched to retain some oil for lubrication. if they glaze over, or smooth out, they won't seal better, but apparently that ~43 miles was long enough for the rings to seat.

haha, no he used better terminology

I think he meant just wearing off the peaks at a microscopic level, so the cross-hatching would still be fully intact.