The maf I borrowed fixed the problem! But....

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Projex240
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Thanks Brian for letting me use the maf. It runs great and the wastegate has it running at 10 psi with the cool air here. The car drives great and doesnt stumble at all. I noticed I have a misfire that caused a stutter at higher RPMS in 4th I think it has to do with my plugs though. We put the autolite equivilant of the NGK bkr7e-11's in and im gonna ge tthe NGK ones today. Heres the only problem now. When im boosting, it pulls good, but when i let off the gas and try to roll either to coast down or to even let of the gas after i wasnt boosting to just take a turn or something or roll toa stop, the cars idle slowly drops and the car dies. It doesnt stumble or buck or anything like that, it just drops the rpms and dies. Cant figure out why. The BOV is re-circed, and theres no vaccum leaks. I still get 20/vac at idle.Is it possible that im having a problem with the downpipe being a short one.. Mine exits about at the bellhousing. I dont think thats it though...The timing is right on, and the BOV is opening as it should, but even if it wasnt, it would re-circ back in. Maybe theres something im missing.

Anyone?

-Josh


Projex240
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up

Nismo_Freak
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Re-circing isn't the end all to idle correction after lifting.

Sounds like you have a lazy IACV ... clean it out and you should also look into raising your base idle about 250 RPM.

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WDRacing
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Just for geewizz, try blocking off the BOV all together. If thats possible for you. Duct tape if you have to. Just to rule that out as a problem. Also, what is your idle set to?

WD

Projex240
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Nismo_Freak wrote:Re-circing isn't the end all to idle correction after lifting.

Sounds like you have a lazy IACV ... clean it out and you should also look into raising your base idle about 250 RPM.
Its wasnt to correct the idle problem . The idle is fine when not driving the car. But i wanted to put it out there that ihad the ov re-circed, so no one would ask needlessly. The BOV isnt leaking.But i will try to clean it out and see if that helps--where can i get a new one and how much? Of course the dealership, but any other places?

-Josh

nissanfanatic
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I have noticed that I always develop idle problems when there's a boost leak somewhere. After I fix it, the idle is fine. It only drops to like 800 and then goes to 900 where I have it set. I would check for boost leaks. Good luck.

Projex240
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NO IDLE PROBLEMS!

The car idles fine, its only when driving and letting off the throttle. no leaks anywhere, I checked all the hoses, and the piping. The idle is great. I dont ahve a problem at all with idle. Im gonna clean/replace the aicv and see how it helps.

-Josh

EXIST tm
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check tps, and all electrical components, other then that i say get it to a shop and have somebody run a diagnostic on it. it's like a 50-60 dollar here to run a diagnostic of the engine.. or if you know anyone who can hook you up, get it on a scope and it will only take like 2 minutes to pin point the problem.

nissanfanatic
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I apologize. Thats what I meant. I have problems with the RPMs dropping lower than usual after I let off the gas. Boost or not, the rpms will drop to like 500 and sometimes it will die. It varies depending on the size of the boost leak. Good luck.

NateDogg
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Yo Projex to clean the IACV rev the engine to 2000 and spray a can of carb cleaner down the vacuum hose for the IACV (big one right beside TPS.

Good luck

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WDRacing
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Try bumping your idle up and see if that helps...

Projex240
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Gonna do all of the above. Im gonna rev teh car up and spray a whole can of that crap in there i think. Also, my idle is at about675-700, which is a bit oo low for my taste. IM gonna bring it up to about 900-1000 and then ill be a happy camper.

-Josh

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C-Kwik
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The Cobra MAF is much more sensetive than your OEM MAF. Make sure the BOV entry is smooth and angled in the direction of the airflow. Too much turbulence behind the Cobra MAF has been known to cause poor readings.

Projex240
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The way the maf sits is the maf is actually int he fender well. The BOV re-entry is just before the turbo inlet about 18-20 inches away from the maf. I dont think its too much turblunece, though it may very well be. I do think that if that was it, id have bogs and stutters between shifst as well, whic i dont, the car shifts smoothly. My first thing is to take off the IACV and clean it. Although, it looks like PIAT to get off.

-josh

KATwo40
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It is gonna be a PITA, but you gotta do it. That's most likely where to find your problem. Also, while you're cleaning, hit the TB, too...just to make sure.

NateDogg
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You don't have to take it off to clean it!!! Trust me I took it off my car and then my dads 240 had the same problem with a bouncy idle and I just said "F IM NOT DOIN THAT AGAIN" so I just sprayed the carb cleaner in the hose and it worked!! Save yourself lots of BS and at least try it aight!?

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C-Kwik
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check the pressurized pipes to make sure there are no boost leaks. This can cause a similar problem as an open atmo bov. Secondly, does it fave this problem when you rev up hard with the car being staitionary? if not, it might be an airstream problem. If the air filter is in it, then it might cause poor readings at speed.


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