r3b wrote:Also for the car sitting so long, I would get new spark plugs, oil flush out everything and then put oil in everything from general oil to diff oil. Maybe even use a bit of seafoam. Just replace or check general engine maintenance stuff like oil filter, air filter, belt, and pads.

sounds good thanks for the input.

r3b wrote: One thing I never understood was the brake booster, how come lots of people T of from there for boost gauge? How does that boost pressure end up there? Isnt everything vacuum related supposed to be connected to the intake and manifold?

We T into the brake booster hose because it is the strongest boost/vacuum signal you can get (the biggest hose, going DIRECTLY into the intake manifold). It sees both boost and vacuum before the check valve. The checkvalve should be between the vacuum distribution block and the booster. You don't want your booster seeing positive pressure.

givengift wrote:

r3b wrote:Also for the car sitting so long, I would get new spark plugs, oil flush out everything and then put oil in everything from general oil to diff oil. Maybe even use a bit of seafoam. Just replace or check general engine maintenance stuff like oil filter, air filter, belt, and pads.

sounds good thanks for the input.

Put fresh gas in it and fire it up!
...actually you might want to pull the plugs and shoot some oil down the cylinder walls first. Changing the oil is cheap insurance too. Was it sitting outside or inside?
You'll probably have to prime the fuel system via turning the key to "ON" a few times before cranking.

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:

r3b wrote:Also for the car sitting so long, I would get new spark plugs, oil flush out everything and then put oil in everything from general oil to diff oil. Maybe even use a bit of seafoam. Just replace or check general engine maintenance stuff like oil filter, air filter, belt, and pads.

Put fresh gas in it and fire it up!
...actually you might want to pull the plugs and shoot some oil down the cylinder walls first. Changing the oil is cheap insurance too. Was it sitting outside or inside?
You'll probably have to prime the fuel system via turning the key to "ON" a few times before cranking.

car was in a climate control storage this is my baby after all.lol i never thought of shooting oil in the cylinder wallls first sounds like a damn good idea to do. thanks for the help guys.

sounds good thanks for the input.












bmw service

A few years ago I hit a drain cover straight on taking the blow to the driverside rim. It cracked my rim and I thought everything else was ok. My cars been down for a year while I'm replacing bushings, balljoints, etc. when I removed the driverside tension rod(strut rod) bracket I noticed it was loose. Apparently when I took the blow it completely took out the front nut and the one in the rear is f*** beyond repair. They are the ones inside the frame rail. Everything has been replaced so now I need to get this figured out. I read somewhere through the web the nut came loose so they cut the frame to access them for a spot weld. Is this the only way? And what would be the safest way to go about it?

Say what? The tension rod bolts in to the control arm and the front radiator support brace. All these parts are replaceable.

Then I guess it's my radiator support brace. The two bolts that go into the frame rail.. The nut got knocked out of one and terribly damaged the other. So now I have no way to bolt this bracket back up. It mounts to the radiator support fine it's just the frame rail mounting location that's f***. I was goin to run a tap through it but then I realized there's no nut to tap.

Ah, I smell what you're cooking. Yeah one should be a stud I believe, the other is a bolt. Kinda like pictured here:


I once watched a Xtreme 4x4 or something where they were doing a repair on a weldnut inside a frame. They basically drilled out a big hole, welded a nut to a washer, put the washer flush with the frame, then welded the washer in and ground it smooth.

Hi guys, first time poster here. My subaru is dying sooner than later and I've been hunting around for 180sx's in my area for the past month or so and I was just wondering if there is anything I should especially look for or check before I purchase. Most of the ones i am looking at are between 70k-130k km (42k-84k miles) and most of them have basic mods: front mount ic, coil overs, exhaust, but nothing too serious. I am new to nissans in terms of ownership so and don't really know what to watch out for, if anything. Also i am specifically looking at the Type X, preferably the kouki but zenki info is always welcome.

Sounds like frame rape. Lol that sucks man I really didn't wanna go that route but it's looking like I have no choice. Well... Thanks for the input papasmurf, and you were right about the camber plates. Before I set them close I had all kinds of stupid neg camber so I'm def glad I purchased some with the plates.

xephyrus wrote:Hi guys, first time poster here. My subaru is dying sooner than later and I've been hunting around for 180sx's in my area for the past month or so and I was just wondering if there is anything I should especially look for or check before I purchase. Most of the ones i am looking at are between 70k-130k km (42k-84k miles) and most of them have basic mods: front mount ic, coil overs, exhaust, but nothing too serious. I am new to nissans in terms of ownership so and don't really know what to watch out for, if anything. Also i am specifically looking at the Type X, preferably the kouki but zenki info is always welcome.

Typically rocker panel rust, strut tower rust, cracked dashes, and rot under the spoilers of hatchbacks is what we look for around here. The mechanicals are usually pretty solid outside of A/C usually not working. Also, if it has power mirrors, see if they work as well (another common failure item).

rwlesher wrote:Sounds like frame rape. Lol that sucks man I really didn't wanna go that route but it's looking like I have no choice. Well... Thanks for the input papasmurf, and you were right about the camber plates. Before I set them close I had all kinds of stupid neg camber so I'm def glad I purchased some with the plates.

Unfortunately yeah. If it were the stud that was bad, there's other things you can do about it, such as this:

I'm looking for an exhaust system for my 240sx. What material is best? I see ceramic,stainless steel, even some carbon fiber.
I just want the best Flow out There!!

So good news! I jacked my car this weekend to check my starter and its basically blown apart. Long story short, I think one of my injectors was leaking and caused my engine to hydrolock and when the starter tried to crank it exploded and locked the crank. I thought I had a bent valve or snapped rod but it looks like its just the starter that died.

Any idea other ideas why my starter would shatter like this? http://i.imgur.com/pHDwDAD.jpg

At least now I dont have to rebuild the bottom end and now I can use my money to get a proper turbo setup, new injectors, and another tune.

Gundam240sx wrote:I'm looking for an exhaust system for my 240sx. What material is best? I see ceramic,stainless steel, even some carbon fiber.
I just want the best Flow out There!!

Material doesn't necessarily change flow, diameter, bend smoothness, length, and muffler restrictions are what does.

Material affects weight and rust resistance.

r3b wrote:So good news! I jacked my car this weekend to check my starter and its basically blown apart. Long story short, I think one of my injectors was leaking and caused my engine to hydrolock and when the starter tried to crank it exploded and locked the crank. I thought I had a bent valve or snapped rod but it looks like its just the starter that died.

Any idea other ideas why my starter would shatter like this? http://i.imgur.com/pHDwDAD.jpg

At least now I dont have to rebuild the bottom end and now I can use my money to get a proper turbo setup, new injectors, and another tune.

I've seen that before, but I can't remember where. Maybe it was some kind of thermal shock? Who knows.

I'd spin it over by hand via the crank pulley as well just to make sure.

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
I've seen that before, but I can't remember where. Maybe it was some kind of thermal shock? Who knows.

I'd spin it over by hand via the crank pulley as well just to make sure.

Well everything cranks over fine, luckly the previous owner left his recpt in the center console and the starter had a life time warrenty. He got a "new" one in December so within a couple months a starter just shattered? I mean I got a free starter no questions asked and the car cranks over perfect with no noises and issues at all. Its even running now!

My whole engine was flooded with gas and it turns out when I let my dad take out the injectors he was a bit rough with one and broke the smaller o ring and the injector would just leak out gas while the car was on ignition. I did the flood method and even syphoned out some gas in my throttle body since there was a back up gas in there. Today we went to adavance auto, got some e3 spark plugs which my dad says are better than NKG which I doubt but wouldnt hurt to try them and we got an o ring kit and swapped out the broken o ring.

Car starter to crank, opened the throttle a bit and car ran! After idling a bit, it started to idle better than before but still a bit high.

Since its a turbo ka should it idle any higher than n/a, it starts around 1500 and then drops to 1000-900. I also notice one of the connectors for the iavc is broken so it might even be that. Im just going to a junk yard clip one off an old ka.

Also I think my transmission harness is messed up for my VSS and thats why im not getting anything for my speedo. So im waiting for wiring specialist to get back in stock with ka24de engine wiring and also order the transmission which should be in the next month or two. The one in the car is so beat up and looks disgusting.

Looks like everything is running good, just need to do some general maintenance stuff, fix up my interior, and ill be set! Thanks for the help PapaSmurf

Good to hear!
Be sure to check your oil too and see if it smells like gas. With that much flooding, you very well could have contaminated the oil. If it smells, change it out immediately. Gasoline mixed with oil doesn't have anywhere near the lubrication properties of non-contaminated oil.

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Good to hear!
Be sure to check your oil too and see if it smells like gas. With that much flooding, you very well could have contaminated the oil. If it smells, change it out immediately. Gasoline mixed with oil doesn't have anywhere near the lubrication properties of non-contaminated oil.

I will sometime this weekl, today was just seeing if she could start and was running for the most 5 minutes. Tomorrow doing a compression test and then replacing with some 10w40 for a bit then flush out the whole engine and change oil filter. What should I use to flush out the engine besides seafoam?

I wouldn't even do that... just fill it with fresh 5w30...

what can cause the CAS timing to go out of spec? (SR20DET if it matters)

Crank angle or cam angle?
In either case, if there's a bunch of trash/shavings on the pickup, that can cause bad stuff to happen.
I'm not sure where either sensor is located on the SR20, but the crank angle sensor is in the distributor on the S13 KA.

gamepro56 wrote:what can cause the CAS timing to go out of spec? (SR20DET if it matters)

I was actually getting the code on my ka for cas and thought that was werid since before my engine flooded I got code 55 which means all is good. I got some other codes like 11,12,21,34 which was strange, so I ended up resetting my ecu and now all the codes went away. Not sure if thats a good thing or bad thing, im thinking my wiring is all sorts of f*** up, im waiting for wiring specialist to come back in stock with ka harness and swapping a brand new one in asap.

My CX Racing tur-

Nah;
I own an imported 1991 240sx s13 in a country which got the 180sx (renamed 200sx for no reason)
At present I am looking to buy coilovers along with rucas and what not, and wondered: are there any differences suspension-wise between the 240sx and 180sx?

I am pretty sure the only difference is the engine and transmission (and some interior electronics), but I need to know for sure before spending a lot of money.

Yeah there aren't any differences in suspension that you would buy.
From the factory there might have been one or 2 differences based on the region (stiffer springs/dampers or something), but really minor stuff.
Coilovers and sway bars, etc from a 240sx will bolt on to a 180sx.

Anyone know where I can buy this fuel injector spacer (BLUE in picture circled in green) Having a hard time finding the right part.

That looks more like a filter than a spacer. You really shouldn't need it.

Wentry to change my brake pads yesterday and we'll it didn't go so good (don't use jacks in gravel lol). I purchased the car and it had a brake upgrade. I was told they were 300zx calipers. That is not the case. I have no idea what brakes are on my car. The fronts are a large single piston caliper and the rears are semi loaded single piston calipers I believe. The only thing I could find that looked similar to them were nissan rogue calipers. However the pads are a different shape. Fun stuff...

Take a pic, would be the easiest for us to identify.

About the only upgrades I would expect are Z32 or J30 on a S14.

Most likely I'd guess they are stock, but a pic will confirm.