The BigBoss Rb20 S13 Rebuild/semi-build thread*UPDATED*

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BigBoss
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:12 am
Car: 1991 240sx Hatch RB20DET

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Well. Here we are. i finally have a decent car and decent engine(to some people) and I've always wanted to start a build thread so here we go. This will be an in progress build thread so you will see what I have do to the car and engine as it happens (Cuz we do it live :naughty: ) hopefully i can learn a lot and maybe i can teach you all a thing or two. i do plan to do a few write ups soon we'll see and hopefully I'm not breaking any rules or anything by starting a build thread without clearance form mods or anything. zilvia had wayy too many rules. anyway:
The Setup
after all my researching on this forum, GTR Canada and Skylines Australia, it seems that the limit for an RB20 is about 350-400 horse power. To be a little on the safer side i want to aim for 350 hp.
a lot of this came with the car so not all of this is with my choosing
what i have so far is as follows:
-Obviously an rb20- the original owner says that it had around 60k miles on it but we all know that's a bunch of BS because that's what everyone says they have on an engine swap :chuckle:
-AEM wide band- nuff said.
- 760cc injectors- no name on these, just black. possibly Bosch.
- SDS EM4 standalone tuning system- not of my choosing. but i can work with it. its quite easy to tune and from all my research on it it is quite reliable has a built in 2 step and launch control which is pretty fun to use. You can advance and retard your timing and apparently you can build boost while using it which I don't know how to do but ill learn eventually.
-Nismo Fuel pressure regulator, nuff said
-T70 turbo- again DEFINITELY not of my choosing lol. Takes years to hit boost and by the time you do you already have to shift
What is needed
-First on the list is a smaller turbo. going by what i have researched, a turbo with a smaller exhaust housing spools quite nicely on an rb20. so a gt30r sounds just about right, and if its vband that will be even better, as my down pipe is a vband.
-better clutch i was gonna get a better clutch but wait till you see what i found in the bell housing of this rb20 :biggrin:
-new differential: i was told this had an lsd and i believed the previous owner. i finally lifted it and checked and while turning one side, the other should turn the same direction, right? not on this one lol turned the wheel and the other wheel did not spin which i believe means the clutches are screwed. so i plan on either q45 or j30. it will happen when it happens.
-New intake manifold: probably just going to get a knock off one and have the welds checked and straightness checked, that crossover intake s*@t has gotta go lol. i eventually wouldn't mind getting a Plazman or a RIPS. we shall see.
-Walbro 255: previous owner said there was one in there. straight up lie but what else is new
-a bunch of interior and exterior look. car is going to be repainted and the interior is going to be refreshed/updated, new seats new or just cleaned carpet, ect.
probably a bunch more stuff. but ill get to it in the build, sorry to talk your ear off. lets get started.

Engine pulling.

*note* sorry for the lack of pictures it was kind of hectic.
started tearing off the front end. hood fenders bumper and so on.
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ended with this and began the pull
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bro disconnecting the exhaust and and turbo manifold. just the size of the turbo and where the bolts were to get it off were a pain in the butt to get off but he finally did
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here is my other friends getting the chain read to mount to the engine. they welded it together because there was no balancer, we had to work with what we had lol
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we began the pull and had some friend kinda balancing the engine and guiding it out.
*note: i know it was stupid to put the chain around the intake manifold but I'm putting on a new intake anyway as noted so it worked out
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at this point I kinda stopped taking pictures, not because i forgot to but as many of you know, pulling an engine gets really involved lol. everything went without a hitch. pulled the transmission out with the engine and for my first engine build, though really involving was surprisingly easy. my only problem was that the rear output shaft seal stayed on the drive as we pulled and the gear oil began to pull, stinking up my garage severely. little bit of absorbent took car of that. Remember what i said about that clutch? i pulled the transmission off and and this is what i found:
first here it is on the tires
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then a closer look i was like wtf is this!
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I had no clue what clutch this was. All i knew was that is was a twin disc and my first thought was that it was some Ebay knock off so i went and did some research. they don't twin disc knock offs on Ebay for an rb20 so i just started typing in what colors it was and what it looked like and so on. after some searching i found out that it could be a Nismo clutch. of course i was like "there's no way I'm that lucky"... well i was wrong. sure enough it was! its Nismo Twin disk GMAX clutch. (correct me if im wrong) according to my search it can handle 550 to 600 horsepower and close to the same amount in torque. for once i got lucky!

so i got everything situated and got the engine on the stand and that's how i left it for the night.
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The next day i began the dis-assembly. it went pretty smooth minus a few hiccups along the way.

now people always asked me why my engine ran so rich, like really rich, 10.1 at idle found out one of my reasons.
huge intake leak.
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now that's all that was on the surface of the lower plenum. there was nothing on the the upper part and if that's was unsettling...
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barely any gasket material on the intake manifold runners or the head. now i know why it ran so weird lol

Started taking the rockers off.everything went smooth.
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Head bolts came out easy. started putting everything into plastic bags like this to keep everything organized.
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keeping the garage warm
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pulled the head off and blown away by the carbon build up
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close up
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head looks good minus the carbon build up, bloacked water passages definitely help with water flow :tisk:
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definitely needs a hone but the block looks good, no deep scoring or anything like that
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here is one of those hiccups. i started pulling the pistons out one by one. at first glace they looked good. then I actually started cleaning them up and what i found didnt make me too happy :mad:
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definitely unusable. pressed forward though. second hiccup was getting that timing gear off. what a pain in the a$$! ended up having to cut it and chisel it off, not what i originally intended but oh well.
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Removed the griddle
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i didn't get any pics but had got the oil pump off and the rear oil seal and finally got it down to the bare block
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and that's about how it sits today. plan is to have the block hot tanked and honed and to have the extended crank collar installed within the next few weeks, then i can start the reassembly. After reassembly i can document other plans like upgrading interior and bodywork, paint and so on. stay tuned!
Last edited by BigBoss on Sun May 12, 2013 3:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.


supersayianjim
Posts: 308
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 6:02 am
Car: 89 240sx(s13)

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kudos mr boss. i actually have a rb20 in my s13(see my sig). but iam upgrading to a rb25det. so all my goodies are for sale. have detchwerks 650cc injectors for sale $300.00

and my long block. so if you need something lmk.

and i have a holset hx30 for sale. shoot me a pm in you are interested. and i will watch this awesome rebuild.

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BigBoss
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:12 am
Car: 1991 240sx Hatch RB20DET

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for some reason it wont let me send pms to anyone. i got a message from one of the mods and wasnt able to reply lol but you if you dont mind me asking what did your hx30 spool at on your rb20? i dont want it to take forever like it did with my t70 but i dont want it to be too quick either. like i said im aiming for a garret ball bearing but that wont be till like spring anyway.

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BigBoss
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:12 am
Car: 1991 240sx Hatch RB20DET

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and an update:
sorryi havent updated with anything big yet :/ but tomorrow im going to pick up a set of oem pistons from someone locally and an new timing gear to replace the one that we messed up. also had the cylinders measured today to check all of my tolerances and what not and everything was in spec! so ill be having the blcok dipped hopefully this weekend if not next. stay tuned!

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Razi
Posts: 28373
Joined: Sun Dec 31, 2006 9:52 am
Car: Moo

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You need 10 posts to send PMs, if I remember correctly.
Good luck with the build!

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BigBoss
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:12 am
Car: 1991 240sx Hatch RB20DET

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Well I'm Finally back into the build. sorry for the delay, few things happened this winter but i was basically trying to gain enough material to continue this thread so without further ado, let me bring you up to speed:
I left off right before dipping the block. Got that all done and painted was gonna do black but i kinda liked the iron metallic. anything but lime green or florescent orange lolImage
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i also had the cylinders deglazed. there was no need for a bore (surprisingly considering the condition of those pistons :ohno:)
i then started acquiring the parts
ARP Rod bolts (dont worry, the rods were re-sized)
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ACL Rod and main bearings
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Fresh set of piston rings
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Tomei springs
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and of course...the crank collar
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which i was kinda worried about getting installed. I started asking local machine shops about how the install would go but but as soon as i asked them about a crank collar install they were all like "wtf is a crank collar". everyone around here is all for chevys and fords so luckily the last person who i asked who happens to be a machinist and the only reason i asked him last was because i dont like to rely on friends all the time. he told me yeah, bring it over. no problem. he had it all done for me in about 1 hour and even let me take a couple pictures, hes a real talented guy.
as soon as i got there, getting the metal lathe setup
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threw the crank on and fired it up, made sure everything was center
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started taking metal off mm by mm
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pretty much got it done, it was really rough so we smoothed it out
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all done and off the lathe
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heating the collar so we could press it on. the pressing process was a bit involved and we needed an extra set of hands so I wasnt able snap a pic
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and here's how it sits today
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also don't know what happened to all the pics of disassembling the head but those are gone i did get a couple of the carbon buildup on the valves
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:tisk: so i took the none the less i took the head and the valves to get cleaned. got a 3 angle and all the goodies. got the head back looking fresh :biggrin:
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also got my head studs and the full gasket set
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started putting the seals back in
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and as many of you know putting in the springs and retainers is a b**** if you don't have the correct tools so camera was off for that but here is the product. i did however completely disassemble the hydraulic lifters and cleaned them. Quite the involved process...
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and here's how it sits currently
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got the lower end assembled and put the head studs in, oil clearances and new pistons and ring gaps were all within spec.
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so now I'm playing the waiting game to assemble everything. i went to put the oil pump on and i noticed i would not spin at all... com to find out while we were getting that seized timing gear off i somehow bent the oil pump housing, causing the gear not to turn :mad: so i ordered a new one a few days ago. should be here on Wednesday. I'm also sorting out all of this:
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wiring harness for my car.what a rats nest.there were so many taped off wires and unused relay with power going to them I'm surprised my car didn't just spontaneously combust. I want on my standalone ecus website to see if I could get a full wiring diagram and sure enough they had it in their manual, along with info on how each competent should be routed, whole lot of information and it all definitely helped me out. Found a more suitable turbo than a t70 as well. behold the wonders of Craigslist!
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only thing bad is that the guy said it was a .63 ar, upon further inspection, its a. .48 ar, not too bad but i think i can find a 63 housing. He also said there was no shaft play but there was. I took it anyway and took it home. found the problem:
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compressor plate is chewed to s*** but the bearings, turbine and compressor wheel was all good, one good thing i did find was that its a hybrid ball bearing turbo, should have quite a nice quick spool. i ordered another compressor plate from from Turbonetics and it should be here the same day the oil pump comes in. all in all i think I'm in good shape. if everything goes as planned i should have the car back on the road in about 2 weeks. then i can focus on giving it a street tune since no one wants to tune ecu. i will update when i get the final parts in. I'm also going to be looking into a different intake manifold made, maybe trying to replicate a Rips style who knows. ill keep you updated and sorry for the delay! :biggrin:

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BigBoss
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:12 am
Car: 1991 240sx Hatch RB20DET

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i keep on forgetting about this build thread! the oil pump did come in and i had finally got it on and bolted up. I finally got the engine dropped in without a hitch. started it up and it ran great!
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i thought everything was going great, until the down pipe wouldn't bolt up lol also the flange was too angled and was causing the turbo to hit the valve cover:
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so my buddy did some welding for me and we got that on. after running it for a bit the noticed some coming from the exhaust and the smell of burnt oil... you guessed it, the turbo i had purchased was indeed bad. instead of chancing it on a rebuilding it, i decided to just get a new "no name" one. After waiting a few days for that, I got the new one and purchased the and installed, then we had to re-fabricate the down pipe (fun). and i thought i was good...again... I let the car sit over night with a piece of cardboard under it to see if there were any leaks, kinda like a pre-flight check before her maiden voyage lol. good thing i did because the water pump was fried :/ didn't notice any other leaks. so rb20 water pumps were back ordered everywhere i called so i got an rb26 one instead. i don't know why i just didn't get a new one back when i put the engine in but oh well you live and learn. so had to take apart the front of the engine, installed it and got everything back together and started her up and drove it down the road. 2 things: One thing i noticed was a weird metallic ticking noise coming from the transmission. I thought obviously i installed something wrong like the clutch or something but what was weird about it was that it only made the sound when i moved, which leads me to believe it has something to do with the drive shaft. problem number 2: when i got back from my test run my radiator was smoking!, thought it was from coolant i may have splashed on it while filling it, doesn't look like. seems like when the aluminum gets hot, it expands, opening up some cracks. so i was going to put the car on the road this week...not gonna happen. decided to keep it off the road for another year. that way i can do the bodywork and rebuild the suspension and a few more goodies. so this is how it currently sits in my garage:
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new water pump!
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the new wiring for the ecu. not much of a rats nest anymore. little messy but way better than it was. excuse the lame house wiring connectors, i ran out of terminal connectors that night.
So now that the actual engine rebuild is done i have to tune it myself which is gonna be really hard :/ which brings me to my next statement
Anyone who has experience in street tuning or tuning with sdsefi, get in touch with me! would like some input on how to go about doing it. i would pay for a tune but that's a whole other story.
and now that I have an extra year to work on this thing its time to roll out with the new plan:
Addition to original plan
I wanna do a daily driver, road racer, occasional drifter all rolled into one. any thoughts or ideas are much appreciated.
Suspension and wheels
-I plan on completely rebuilding the suspension. new tie rods, ball joints etc.
-also going to get a new set of coilovers. although the e-bay ones are doing ok, wanna get a better set. (any ideas? Was leaning towards PBM's but idk yet)
-Energy suspension Hyper Flex poly bushings or equivalent- Are there any different companies that make complete bushing sets?
Braking
-300zx front calipers, and although i want to do the rear calipers as well, apparently you cant use the oem e-brake?
-Might as well do the 5 lug conversion. probably ichiba, but before i install them, press out the ichiba bearings and install oem bearings... just a bit of preventative maintenance from what i hear.
-since I'm getting bigger brake calipers probably going to need new wheels (not to mention 5 lug). wanna go with either 17" or 18" for these. with a tad bit wider in the rear
- considering doing a brake booster delete. as you can see my master cylinder runs a bit close to the down pipe.
Drive train
considering i just rebuilt the engine were good there.
gotta find out what that ticking noise is. hoping its the output shaft dust cover hitting the shaft or something because the trans was fine last year. here's to hoping :ohno:
-new differential. one wheel peels getting old. wanna get a vlsd setup or an lsd setup. maybe j30 or something.

in the end ill probably be adding to that list. i also have to do the body work and repaint it. probably gonna keep it white and do the gold wheels again. something about that combination is sexy lol

drifteds14
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Jul 31, 2013 6:14 pm
Car: 1998 Nissan 240sx sr20det
1995 Nissan 240sx se ka24det

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Sweet wish i had time to rebuild my motors :)

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BigBoss
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:12 am
Car: 1991 240sx Hatch RB20DET

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lol the rebuilding part was easy, the hard part was acquiring the parts to do it


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