the 240 finally broke down!

[darens13]

let me start by saying, ive searched for quite a while.

so, im driving home from work yesterday, the car starts right up and idles fine. i let it warm up for a minute or two, as i finish a convo on my phone. get out on the highway and everything is going ok. a car in front of me turns so i slow down, when i sped back up it seemed like the car had less power, big deal i didnt think about it too much. i stop in at the store and the car is only running on 3 cylinders, explaines the lack of power.

i baby it the rest of the way home, i pull the plugs and determine that number 1 cylinder is dead. shut it off let it cool down, and go out pull the plug and test it for spark, sparks good, so i grab the compression tester, 150 psi on a still warm engine, ok looks good.

today i figured it might be a bad fuel injector, so i replace the injector and while im at it i replace the fuel filter with a z32 filter.

everything is put back together and ready to go, starts up and runs great for a couple of minutes. then it seems to bog down. i race the engine up to about 2k and let it idle down, it dies. pulled the plugs and they are covered in gas. explaines why it wont idle, its obviously flooding. it only runs when it is cold and as soon as it gets warm it bogs down and floods. im thinking a temperature sensor maybe?

your thoughts? thanks a lot guys

[ZOMG.SR20]

CTS is gone its thinks the coolant is cold so it compensates by richeing up the fuel mixture

Coolant Temp Sensor a 14$ part at autozone

[Brandon1605]

CTS is gone its thinks the coolant is cold so it compensates by richeing up the fuel mixture

Coolant Temp Sensor a 14$ part at autozone

If it is indeed the CTS, I wouldnt use a crappy a** Autozone part. I am a mechanic and run a small garage, and one thing I will not do is call Autozone for ANYTHING. I use Advanced's brake parts, but I will not use anything electrical from them. Go with Napa or Sumner for this stuff if you have them.

Cheap isnt always better....

[darens13]

Thanks a ton guys! Its just weird how it started flooding after i replaced the injector and fuel filter. It had run great up until the other day. I will replace the cts and hopefully that will do it.

[ricebike]

did you access the ecu/ecm for trouble codes 1st?

how about checking the wire/plug to the CTS before changing it outright???

[darens13]

i removed the old cts, it looked pretty rough, and may not have needed to be replaced, but i had already bought it and it was like 12 bucks so not too big of a deal.i changed the cts. it ran fine i thought it was fixed, i let it idle for about 5 mins then i opened the throttle a little bit, it fell on its face and started acting like it was getting too much fuel again. i kept it running, but it would only run above 1000 rpm.i was able to get it home, from my friends house, and it drove ok, but it still wanted to die at lower rpm.so, ive still got a flooding problem, but it will run, again only at higher rpm.

[Brandon1605]

Well, the next thing you need to do is check for a lack of air getting to the motor. I would check the air filter, see if it's clogged. If you cant see light shining through it, its no longer good.

[darens13]

air filter is ok, ive got a cone filter, and its still pretty clean.

[ZOMG.SR20]

umm autozone and all the other parts places are the same parts different package

[darens13]

umm autozone and all the other parts places are the same parts different package

youre right, there is nothing wrong with autozone, you just have to be careful any time you go to the parts house to make sure you get the correct part. ive been talking to some people at school and they think maybe the fuel pressure regulator, or the iacv(?). would that cause flooding at operating temp and an inability to idle properly at operating temp? i have to keep the revs up to about 1500 to 2000 just to keep it running.

[Brandon1605]

umm autozone and all the other parts places are the same parts different package

And this is based on what? Buying them? I use different parts from many different manufacturers and I can tell you now... there IS a difference. I can do a repair on O2 sensors using crappy a** Autozone Bosch parts and have a comeback, or go with Napa or Sumner and get an OEM equivalent and be able to guarantee the work. Its not an opinion... its fact.

youre right, there is nothing wrong with autozone, you just have to be careful any time you go to the parts house to make sure you get the correct part. ive been talking to some people at school and they think maybe the fuel pressure regulator, or the iacv(?). would that cause flooding at operating temp and an inability to idle properly at operating temp? i have to keep the revs up to about 1500 to 2000 just to keep it running.

The IACV is a possibility, but they usually dont cause a rich condition. FPR is also a possibility and would fit with your symptoms (higher rpms cause the cylinders to flood, fouling the plugs). Id check/change that first. Getting some diagnostics done would probably tell you alot.

[sldewyz]

tps maybe? sensing that there is more throttle pressure then actually present and dumping more fuel? what about ur pump and regulator? seems like ur regulator might be stuck open possibly?

try cleaning your maf sensor first since its the cheapest route out of them all. and check to see if your o2 sensors are all plugged in and not accidentally damaged in any way.

[darens13]

i wouldnt think that an o2 sensor would cause my problem, but it doesnt hurt to check. i hate shooting in the dark and just thowing money away, but i think if i cant find anything obviously wrong, then i need to take it to a shop and have someone run a diagnostic.

[darens13]

anyone have any ideas? right now its stuck at home and im really getting sick of having to drive my volvo wagon!

[horubeets]

I can do a repair on O2 sensors using crappy a** Autozone Bosch parts and have a comeback, or go with Napa or Sumner and get an OEM equivalent and be able to guarantee the work. Its not an opinion... its fact.

My OEM o2 sensor from nissan is a BOSCH o2 sensor.

[darens13]

a small update:

so yesterday i went out and started it up after not running it for a few days, it started right up, no problem. i let it idle and get up to operating temp, then i raced the engine, no hesitation, nothing to make me think there was anything wrong with it. i went down my road and came back and drove it in my driveway, parked and the idle fluctuated and it died.

today im going to go out and tear into it and see if i can find anything wrong, any suggestions on anything to look for would greatly be appreciated!

[rico05]

And this is based on what? Buying them? I use different parts from many different manufacturers and I can tell you now... there IS a difference. I can do a repair on O2 sensors using crappy a** Autozone Bosch parts and have a comeback, or go with Napa or Sumner and get an OEM equivalent and be able to guarantee the work. Its not an opinion... its fact.

I used to be a store manager for an Advance Auto, and I have friends that are management at Autozone and Napa. Really, 99% of it is just same part, different box. Wearever from Advance is Wagner from Napa. BWD is the same across the board. About the only difference are belts (Oreilly and Napa sell Gates, Advance sells Drive Rite and Auto Zone sells Kelly) and batteries.

[240pav]

a small update:

so yesterday i went out and started it up after not running it for a few days, it started right up, no problem. i let it idle and get up to operating temp, then i raced the engine, no hesitation, nothing to make me think there was anything wrong with it. i went down my road and came back and drove it in my driveway, parked and the idle fluctuated and it died.

today im going to go out and tear into it and see if i can find anything wrong, any suggestions on anything to look for would greatly be appreciated!

im having the same problem i think i have deceant cold starts but when i go to drive it it will die, and i try and crank it up, itll only go to 2000 or so rpms at full throttle, then when i step off, it dies.. im bout to take it in to get it checked out.. maybe i can give u feed back from the shop..

[darens13]

^try doing the self diagnosis in the ecm, im really not that great at troubleshooting, but its simple to do.

well i drove it today, everything was ok, the idle, after it had been driven for about 15 minutes, was weird, it acted like it wanted to die. i checked the self diagnosis on the ecm and it showed a code 55 so everything is ok there.

[Xj220gt]

Nissan uses a lot of BOSCH parts on their cars. 02 sensors being one of them.

[Graphfixz]

so, did you fix it?

I am having a simular issue. I am flooding and as a resault i have no power, it smells like gas and smokes. All of this after changing the injectors.

I have had to change the oring on injector 2 about 3 times now. I have caked it with lubricant to keep from tearing on install and it still seems to tear. I *think* i finally got it in but i have no differance... smells like gas, loss of power and some smoke.

I am sick of it!

[hboninc19]

Try checking The ecu side of the injector harness it might be grounding off some were. that might cause the injector to stay open. Try moving the injector to a different cylinder and see if the problem moves with it.

[OutToWinPAHC]

MAF will cause these issues.

[Graphfixz]

how would I check 'the ecu side of the injector'?

also, is there a way to check if the MAF is working correctly? I don't have $300 to play hit and miss with.

Thanks for your help on this!