The $15k car challenge.

A General Discussion forum for cars and other topics, and a great place to introduce yourself if you are new to NICO!
User avatar
elwesso
Posts: 30810
Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT
Location: Indiana
Contact:

Post

Bubba1 wrote:
The rule of thumb I heard with Boxsters is that the newer the better. They are great cars to drive, though the S version is what you'd want as it has more pep.

I agree with the Z33 over AP1 S2K, though the S2K (either AP) are a hoot to drive too.
I've heard similar, and actually the engines are pretty similar from the boxster to the 911. IMO, there's a reason why 911's cost more than a boxster.

Also, in those years (say early-mid 2000's), the 911 turbo is actually more reliable (from what I've read) than the standard 911.

Bottom line with those older Porsches, you can find something equally as powerful, equally as fun to drive, and overall fairly equal performance, for a lot less money and a lot less cost to maintain. Porsche parts are easily 2-3x more expensive than anything else.

IMO, I'd probably take a clean and lightly modded 944 turbo over a boxster.


Scott@FontanaNissan
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:38 am
Car: 08 Nissan Titan, 1993 Nissan Sentra, 2013 Nissan Versa, 2007 Kawasaki ZX6R
Location: Fontana, CA
Contact:

Post

I bought a 2007 Kawasaki ZX6R for $6000.00
New tires $300 for both
Fluid change $25
50mpg
Lane Splitting
Back Seat - if she doesn't fit - get a new girl!
Top Speed - to scared to find out...keeps pulling at 120mph...balls not big enough!

User avatar
PapaSmurf2k3
Site Admin
Posts: 19003
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

Post

but do you agree with Z33 vert over AP1 S2k?

User avatar
Bubba1
Moderator
Posts: 16082
Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2002 1:42 pm
Car: 2003 Nissan 350z
2024 Honda HR-V
2008 Toyota Corolla S
2001 Toyota Avalon XLS

Post

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:but do you agree with Z33 vert over AP1 S2k?

Good question as both are such good cars. One of the reasons I bought a Z33 over an AP1 S2K was because the S2K was only available as a vert. But choosing between both verts is more difficult. I suppose I'd lean toward a Z33 vert because of the better low end torque. What about you?

User avatar
BusyBadger
Posts: 3753
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2005 3:20 pm
Car: '92 Nissan 240SX
'05 Nissan 350Z
'13 Nissan Juke
Contact:

Post

I think the S2K is just too small to be livable as a DD. As bad as I think the Z33 vert looks I would still probably pick it over the S2K.

As a form follow function guy my larger concern would be chassis flex. Since the vert was designed after the fact (face it, those looks can't have been intentional!) Nissan had to shore up some weakness but i don't know that it's been completely taken care of. But since the S2K was designed as topless from the start all the inherent vert weakness could be mitigated, at least to some extent.

User avatar
krazy skwerel
Posts: 4488
Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2003 7:48 pm
Car: 1989 240SX Coupe down for the count
2005 Honda Accord
1974 Ford Mustang II
Location: Middle Tennessee
Contact:

Post

I would probably go MS3 or G35 since I need a back seat. The MS3 has plenty of cargo room and pep as well. I used to want a GTO or a CTS-V but they seem to have a lot of little problems that just build up over time.

User avatar
Kompresshun
Administrator
Posts: 3633
Joined: Sun May 10, 2009 7:41 am
Car: 2020 Nissan Pathfinder SV 4x4, 2017 Ford F150 4x4 SuperCab 3.5L Ecoboost/10AT, 2005 Nissan Pathfinder SE Offroad 5AT
Location: Louisville, KY
Contact:

Post

BusyBadger wrote:I think the S2K is just too small to be livable as a DD. As bad as I think the Z33 vert looks I would still probably pick it over the S2K.
Nope not here. I would much rather sacrifice the space to DD an S2K than have to drive a Z33 vert. Trust me, if I can DD a Miata then a S2K can't be that bad.

krazy skwerel wrote:I used to want a GTO or a CTS-V but they seem to have a lot of little problems that just build up over time.
Same reasoning for me. I used to majorly want a GTO and have driven one quite a few times - I fully intended to own one by now. That has faded the past couple of years though and i'm glad I waited to buy one, because obviously they're not standing the test of time very well. That seems to be a common thing with a lot of GM vehicles though, so I don't blame it just on the GTO or the CTS-V.

My Five Hundred was a fleet vehicle and is 8 years old. Other than a little wear on the seats everything is still solid on the interior. Nothing is brittle and nothing rattles. Yet hop in an Impala, Malibu, Grand Prix, or Bonneville from around the same year and it'll be worn out on the inside from the same treatment. Not all GM interiors suck, but back then a lot of them were utter crap.

User avatar
krash
Posts: 4836
Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2005 10:43 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx Convertible
Location: Memphis, TN
Contact:

Post

BusyBadger wrote:since the S2K was designed as topless from the start all the inherent vert weakness could be mitigated, at least to some extent.
Its still more flexible than it would have been if it were a coupe. But for a vert its pretty damn solid.

User avatar
nissangirl74
Moderator
Posts: 13910
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 1:15 pm
Car: 2014 Xterra Pro4X, '12 Titan 4x4, '98 240sx, '89 Pao, '77 620, '72 240Z w/RB25, '68 510, '67 WRL411, '67.5 SPL 311, '63 Bluebird, '63 NL320

Post

Let me know if you want me to go test drive either.

:naughty:

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale ... gId=0&mmt=[CHEV[CORV[]][]]&listingId=364644952&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale ... gId=0&mmt=[CHEV[CORV[]][]]&listingId=361202369&Log=0

If you're willing to spend $16K
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale ... gId=0&mmt=[CHEV[CORV[]][]]&listingId=365074629&Log=0

...or $17K...
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale ... gId=0&mmt=[CHEV[CORV[]][]]&minPrice=16000&listingId=355477007&Log=0

....0r 18K...
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale ... 17000&mmt=[CHEV[CORV[]][]]&modelCode1=CORV&searchRadius=100&showcaseListingId=0&showcaseOwnerId=0&startYear=1997&vehicleStyleCodes=CONVERT&Log=0

arizona cars FTW

User avatar
OriginalWheelman
Posts: 5668
Joined: Thu Apr 27, 2006 3:38 am
Car: '15 Ford Focus Electric
Location: Portland, OR (or what?)

Post

1, 2, and 4 are all autos. And I personally, will never own a red car if I can help it. The blue one looks pretty good on the 18k list, but it is 12 years old and would be hard to finance for 18k without good credit.

User avatar
RicerX
Moderator
Posts: 2703
Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 9:36 am
Car: '20 Titan Pro4X
Location: Southeastern US

Post

WDRacing wrote:Overweight and under powered?
You suggested a C4 Vette (3235lbs curb weight and 300hp - taken from a 1996 model) but discouraged a 350Z (3225lbs curb weight and 305hp - taken from a 2007 Track HR model) as being overweight and underpowered?

I know there's a fairly substantial torque difference man, but this comment would have been far less silly if the cars weren't so close in power at the high end and within 10lbs of each other. It's ok to say you just like Corvettes better ;)

User avatar
flohtingPoint
Posts: 3564
Joined: Tue May 13, 2003 2:46 pm
Car: 2004 Z16 Corvette Z06
Location: Washington DC
Contact:

Post

RE: Corvettes (Z06 vs Base)

For what it's worth, a base model Corvette is a MUCH better DD than a Z06. The gearing is much better for "street" driving (1st/2nd gear are way too tight, the base model's gearing is very good for it's HP output) and for highway gas mileage (my C5Z gets 5-6 LESS MPG than my FRC got). Dont think a base C5 is a slug compared to a C5Z, my FRC was an outstanding car and, at times, just as comparable as it's big brother. When it comes to NON-COMPETITION driving, I fully feel a base model is the correct choice here. The AC unit on a base model is also far better, as with a Z06 you ONLY get the digital climate control, which is annoying at best most of the time.

RE: Corvettes (Auto vs Manual)

When I was stationed in Europe, I specifically sought out an automatic Camaro Z28. For DD'ing, it's just really more comfortable, especially if you get instances of stop/go traffic. With a Corvette, it's worse, as that first gear will thump you back and forth in tight traffic and it REALLY gets annoying. LS motors also run HOT, then less revs you give a motor in traffic where you're not getting airflow, the better. My point? Getting an auto is not the end of the world, anyone that mocks you just send them my way and I'll deliver a :slap:

RE: Corvettes (what years to get, what to look for)

I could seriously TLDR you on this. Over the past two years, I've learned so much about these cars that it's sick. Competing nationally, you need to find every advantage you can get, so I've done way more legwork than you average car buyer to learn about these cars. I will narrow things down to what a DD would look for:

Years
----------
99-00 you had the FRC's (for fixed roof coupe). This is what I had. It's the lightest base C5 you can get, they ALL come with FE3 suspension (I will get into this later). The FRC body style is what became the "Z06". Between the 99 and 00, the 00 is a better car on a minor scale, the cats are better flowing and all aftermarket exhausts will be easier to apply, as there are NO "catbacks" that bolt up, only "axlebacks". The "catbacks" are cut and weld, as there are no flanges after the cats, and the 99 requires WAY more cutting and welding than a 00, due to cat placement and exhaust fitment. If you get a 99-00, I would look for an FRC instead of a coupe.

FRC: You can see that it clearly has a trunk
Image

Coupe: You can see that it has a hatch where the trunk should be
Image


01-04 no more FRC BUT these models produced 5 more hp and 15 more ft/lbs of tq due to a couple changes they made in the LS1. You CAN get these models with FE3 suspension, BUT you have to look for a Z51 model (FE3 will be on a sticker of option codes in the glovebox, you CAN NOT use VIN to ID a Z51).

FRC or 01+ coupe, cant go wrong =)

Suspensions
------------------
I've mentioned FE3, this is a suspension package code for Chevy. In Vettes, you had the following: FE1, FE3, FE4 (there were others, but lets stick to these).

FE1: Base suspension. This does NOT mean "base model" suspension, it just means this is the lowest level of stiffness you can have. The dampers are weaker, the springs are spongier and swaybars are smaller.

FE3: (found on Z51 and FRC). Stiffer springs, bigger swaybars, better dampers.

FE4: (found only on Z06). Stiffer dampers, stiffer rear spring. Stiffer front sway bar.

If you have further questions, feel free to ask me.

User avatar
RicerX
Moderator
Posts: 2703
Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 9:36 am
Car: '20 Titan Pro4X
Location: Southeastern US

Post

krazy skwerel wrote:I would probably go MS3 or G35 since I need a back seat. The MS3 has plenty of cargo room and pep as well. I used to want a GTO or a CTS-V but they seem to have a lot of little problems that just build up over time.
The MS3 is a fantastic daily, but DRINKS gas if you take it anywhere above 2800 RPMs (and where's the fun in it if you don't?). My 370Z was better on fuel around town than my MS3. On the interstate (below 80mph) the MS3 was great, but above 80, forget it.

That said, it's tough to find a nice enough MS3 for below $15k. They're usually high mileage (and likely ragged out) for less than $15k. The value retention on these cars is actually quite impressive and a lot of the reason why I bought new. In 2012, a new one could be had for $22k easily, but a used 2010 with 30k miles would fetch $20k. I would rather pay the extra 10% money at that point to have my own break-in.

User avatar
krazy skwerel
Posts: 4488
Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2003 7:48 pm
Car: 1989 240SX Coupe down for the count
2005 Honda Accord
1974 Ford Mustang II
Location: Middle Tennessee
Contact:

Post

Yeah I know the MS3 drinks gas, but my buddy fiot a washing machine in the back of his and after seeing a little hatch fit something that big I was pretty impressed. It just sucks because like any cheaper performance car most of them have been ragged out.

User avatar
Looneybomber
Posts: 9140
Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2004 3:05 pm
Car: 02 explorer sprt (grn)
10 G37S (white)

Post

I vote s2k if you don't need a back seat. Older M3 if you do. If MPG is a concern, 128i, but it's down on HP. The 135i is a better choice, but over budget.

For a luxury car, the Mercedes CL55 AMG's are approaching 15k, but I don't know if banks loan out for cars >7yrs.
Scott@FontanaNissan wrote:I bought a 2007 Kawasaki ZX6R for $6000.00
New tires $300 for both
Fluid change $25
50mpg
Lane Splitting
Back Seat - if she doesn't fit - get a new girl!
Top Speed - to scared to find out...keeps pulling at 120mph...balls not big enough!
My 600rr topped out at 157 and R1 topped out at 185. I somehow maxed out my bikes, but I never reached the top speed of my s2000. Too scary! Cars at high speed just feel...ehh...floaty and scary. I think I hit 120mph in my s2000 once. Bikes, I had no problem riding 120-150mph. Way more comfortable.

User avatar
JTR32gtst
Posts: 158
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 8:29 am

Post

Is this buy one stock, already going, or use the cash to make something cool?

S14 with LS swap. For 15K, you can have one heck of a nice S14 with great power for cheap....

If you could find a decent one, a GMC Syclone would be fun...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GMC-Other-2-door-/390768715291

User avatar
Kompresshun
Administrator
Posts: 3633
Joined: Sun May 10, 2009 7:41 am
Car: 2020 Nissan Pathfinder SV 4x4, 2017 Ford F150 4x4 SuperCab 3.5L Ecoboost/10AT, 2005 Nissan Pathfinder SE Offroad 5AT
Location: Louisville, KY
Contact:

Post

Can't finance old stuff. He's not paying cash.
OriginalWheelman wrote:Car must cost less than $15k.
Must be new / low mileage enough to get financed.

User avatar
OriginalWheelman
Posts: 5668
Joined: Thu Apr 27, 2006 3:38 am
Car: '15 Ford Focus Electric
Location: Portland, OR (or what?)

Post

Oh yeah there are tons of $15k projects you could make. I was looking at cars and found out what an interesting bracket this is. There are a lot of older cars that could be had for the money that are fun but impossible to finance. There are a lot fo nice cars that are easy to finance but cost way more money. Even going to$20k, as has been pointed out, opens a lot more options. That's why it's a challenge. :)

User avatar
Kompresshun
Administrator
Posts: 3633
Joined: Sun May 10, 2009 7:41 am
Car: 2020 Nissan Pathfinder SV 4x4, 2017 Ford F150 4x4 SuperCab 3.5L Ecoboost/10AT, 2005 Nissan Pathfinder SE Offroad 5AT
Location: Louisville, KY
Contact:

Post

^I had the same problem last time I was car shopping. It seemed like if I went a couple of grand over my limit, it was easy to find what I wanted but in my price range it was quite hard. I found a Mercury Marauder that I wanted BAD, but alas it was $2,000 too expensive. Then at the time I wanted a GTO more than anything, but none we're to be found for less than $13-15k.

User avatar
dgms240
Posts: 322
Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2007 12:31 pm
Car: '90 s13 hatch ka24det
Location: Atlanta, GA
Contact:

Post

2010 Genesis Coupe 2.0T

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/imag ... W-7P1I7s6D

PIcked up mine for 16K with only 19k miles and still under factory warranty. Finding one under 15k shouldn't be too hard.

User avatar
Extreme Dimensions
Vendor
Posts: 1036
Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2008 1:35 pm
Car: Nissan Maxima
Infiniti G35 x3
Honda S2000 x2
Acura Integra
Toyota Tundra
Nissan 350z x2
Toyota MR2 turbo
Nissan S14
Mazda Miata x2
GMC Envoy
Chevy Trailblazer
Jeep Cherokee x3
Location: Fullerton, CA
Contact:

Post

Twin Turbo. V12. 493HP, 590TQ.



























Image




BUT!!! you will never stop putting money into it.


Found one for 15.5k
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale ... 2003&Log=0


Return to “General Chat”