TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Wed Jul 25, 2018 4:57 pm

At 79K miles my 2016 Nissan Altima S has failed and dealer is replacing tranny.
Dealer tried to make me understand that the normal cost would be 4200 to replace but to make it seem more appealing to me they said they would discount it to 3300. But I know it will be a reman and it is still too expensive

Nissan consumer affairs is absolutely no help whatsoever. The only proof they will accept for maintenance on a Nissan product is maintenance by a dealership. It does not matter if you have maintenance logs and receipts to show proof that you have maintained your Nissan, consumer affairs will not take this into consideration and therefore will not help you at all with the cost of the repair.

Think about it, the reason that they guarantee the transmission to only 60K miles, is because they know that they will not last much longer than that.

Have you seen the videos on youtube Nissan CVT transmission failure analysis part 1 and part 2?
After seeing these videos, I will never buy another Nissan product or any foreign car that has a CVT.

The TEXAS heat is inconsistent with a smooth CVT operation. This is because Nissan CVT does not provide cooling of the tranny fluid. It actually has a CVT oil Warmer to warm the fluid. Since the CVT functions will oil pressure, the warming of the CVT fluid to the temperatures in Texas actually thin the fluid out too much. When it is too thin, the amount supplied by the oil pump to the chain or belt is insufficient therefore causing the belt to slip and causing internal transmission damage and failure.

Another thing that I have an issue with is that Nissan will put out TSB's even saying that the TCM needs to be reprogrammed or you will have transmission failure, and yet they do not notify owners of these vehicles they just let they owner have to suffer the high cost of replacing the transmission.

All of these foreign car manufacturers, Toyota, Honda, Nissan etc. are all using this CVT.
Here is the trade off. If you drive a vehicle with a CVT, you will save on fuel and it is a fun vehicle to drive.

This comes at a high cost. YOU WILL SUFFER CVT FAILURE. it is inevitable.. I have Dodge vehicle also. It has 330K MILES on the original motor and transmission. I challenge you to prove to me that any Nissan with a CVT has lasted that long with the original transmission.
.

Post by **AZhitman** » Wed Jul 25, 2018 9:20 pm

Lots of complaints documented here about the Nissan CVT.

I'm not convinced it has anything to do with the climate (trust me, it's consistently hotter here than in TX) - but check out the long, long list of Nissan CVT owners here who have had nightmarish dealings with NNA over their cars.

mst3kpimp · Post by **mst3kpimp** » Wed Jul 25, 2018 9:30 pm

I'm curious did you ever change the cvt fluid & if so when. the fact that nissan uses the "you did'nt have it serviced by us" caveat is absurd.

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Thu Jul 26, 2018 2:28 pm

Yes, I changed it at 50K. Nissan North America Absolutely says that If there are no Dealership Maintenance records for them to look at, even if you have your own maintenance records, that they will not take your records, receipts or proof that anything was ever done to your vehicle and will not assist in a replacement.

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Thu Jul 26, 2018 2:31 pm

AZhitman wrote: ↑
Wed Jul 25, 2018 9:20 pm
Lots of complaints documented here about the Nissan CVT.

I'm not convinced it has anything to do with the climate (trust me, it's consistently hotter here than in TX) - but check out the long, long list of Nissan CVT owners here who have had nightmarish dealings with NNA over their cars.

It absolutely has a lot to do with heat.
watch this video
https://youtu.be/jnkplutrJR0 Heat is just part of the problem. I want to install a fluid cooler for my fluid but i do not know how it will affect the engine when the winter comes. I am going to pick up my Altima today, dealer called and said it is ready. The warranty now is only 12k or 12 mos., It is a reman for 3300

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Thu Jul 26, 2018 2:32 pm

mst3kpimp wrote: ↑
Wed Jul 25, 2018 9:30 pm
I'm curious did you ever change the cvt fluid & if so when. the fact that nissan uses the "you did'nt have it serviced by us" caveat is absurd.

Sorry I did reply but not to you directly, in a hurry got to go pick up my Altima

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Thu Jul 26, 2018 5:09 pm

mst3kpimp wrote: ↑
Wed Jul 25, 2018 9:30 pm
I'm curious did you ever change the cvt fluid & if so when. the fact that nissan uses the "you did'nt have it serviced by us" caveat is absurd.

Yes, I changed it at 50K. Nissan North America Absolutely says that If there are no Dealership Maintenance records for them to look at, even if you have your own maintenance records, that they will not take your records, receipts or proof that anything was ever done to your vehicle and will not assist in a replacement.

Post by **amc49** » Thu Jul 26, 2018 9:57 pm

The problem is likely not the fluid warmer. The fluid flows best and works shift valves and such at the radiator temperature of 200-230 degrees. If anything it would be the cooling system not being able to remove enough heat from the CVT oil in the worst cases. The linked video proves nothing except that the rookie there who builds turbo does not understand how a positive displacement oil pump works. They automatically make up for thinner fluid by pumping more of it, how the pump bypass works. It functions to automatically make up for any difference in temperature.

The second half of the vid mainly covers the CVT not playing well with sudden power hits and that is true of ALL CVT designs on the planet, some just have better electronic software overhead to prevent it from happening. ALL CVT needs to be able to roll a bit to self adjust and the difference in the drive type from normal ATX, which can change gear sitting still. A CVT CANNOT, it MUST roll at least a bit to readjust the ratio if a major change is called for like a sudden stop and stand in the throttle again. That requirement is well known to people like me who rebuilt CVT drives 25 years ago, every piece of equipment using one will have the strong warning somewhere on it 'DO NOT ADJUST the drive while it is NOT rotating, can cause instant damage!'. Why if you suddenly lock the brakes in a panic stop your Nissan suddenly will not pull away, it is readjusting the drive ratio to be able to go again. It will lag for a second then go back to running right.

Another problem with CVT is that they can require up to 800 psi oil pressure for the pulley halves, normal ATX never needing more than about 250 max ever. That is a LOT of pressure and pressure being what it is will find all kinds of ways to fault there and why the pulley roller bearings tear up to then let the pulley slip from drag, the pulley must work smoothly around its' perimeter and the roller balls used there tend to flatten and then it's scrap.

One thing you do see working with Japanese design is that they tend to heat treat and harden cheaper steels to do the same job we do over here with much stronger steels to begin with and killer heat treats on top of that. I think the roller balls and the pulley shaft they fit to need to be made of much stronger steel, they beat up like made of molasses, American parts do not do that. Similar to the crap exhaust valves the Japanese use that we laugh at over here. They replace almost all valves as they are surface hardened only and cannot be cut, ours commonly cut always as the steel is hard all the way through.

Post by **AZhitman** » Thu Jul 26, 2018 10:20 pm

THROWAWAYCAR wrote: ↑
Thu Jul 26, 2018 2:31 pm
It absolutely has a lot to do with heat.
watch this video

Heat is just part of the problem. I want to install a fluid cooler for my fluid but i do not know how it will affect the engine when the winter comes.

I don't need to watch a YT video, I've been at this for 15 years.

If ambient temp were the main factor, then AZ (specifically, the PHX area) would see a higher percentage of CVT failures than any other state - 116* F today.

A fluid cooler will alter the viscosity, which, unless you're an engineer with specific knowledge of that particular CVT's functionality, may cause it to function oddly (or not at all).

Frankly, I don't think a CVT is suitable for ANY vehicle, but I'm rapidly becoming the minority.

With that said, I agree with your contention that Nissan has failed its customer base - by slinging these POS transmissions as God's gift to drivers, AND by failing to stand behind them when they DO prematurely fail.

Post by **amc49** » Fri Jul 27, 2018 1:03 am

If you overcool past the normal hot fluid the VB will likely make up for it, they do it all day long on normal ATX, the issue may be though that the ECM eventually picks up on it being overcool to post some kind of a code similar to the one for engine not heated up enough. The TCM would likely play into that. The VBs have millions spent on the design to be able to control the the hydraulics properly at all temps imaginable. That of course cannot make up for fluid breakdown due to heat. That temp range I quoted is normal though and if the radiator keeps it there then fluid failure due to heat is NOT the issue.

Lubing the belt? Like most ATX designs I'd bet that belt is flooded with too much oil rather than not enough.

We'll see, I have a '17 Alt SR with one too. I'm pretty convinced driving style can have much to do with life on them. If you drive around tromping on the gas off a light you are gonna kill it earlier for sure.

Post by **Rogue One** » Fri Jul 27, 2018 6:23 am

THROWAWAYCAR wrote: ↑
Thu Jul 26, 2018 2:28 pm
Yes, I changed it at 50K. Nissan North America Absolutely says that If there are no Dealership Maintenance records for them to look at, even if you have your own maintenance records, that they will not take your records, receipts or proof that anything was ever done to your vehicle and will not assist in a replacement.

Refusing to accept your maintenance records is a violation of the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act, which is a United States federal law (15 U.S.C. § 2301 et seq.) enacted in 1975.

Do I have to get my car serviced at the dealership to keep warranty?
No. An independent mechanic, a retail chain shop, or even you yourself can do routine maintenance and repairs on your vehicle. The manufacturer or dealer can, however, require consumers to use select repair facilities if the repair services are provided to consumers free of charge under the warranty. In fact, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, which is enforced by the FTC, makes it illegal for manufacturers or dealers to claim that your warranty is void or to deny coverage under your warranty simply because someone other than the dealer did the work.

Post by **Rogue One** » Fri Jul 27, 2018 6:49 am

If it were me (and I've done it before), I'd contact the dealership and Nissan and tell them you're filling a complaint with the Attorney General for Texas, and the Federal Trade Commission.

Post by **amc49** » Sat Jul 28, 2018 2:01 am

X2, throwing your weight around can be very productive. BTDT on insurance claims before, you just have to make sure you are in the right.

The squeaking wheel always gets the fix, the quiet ones burn down to the ground with no outside help. Forced of course.

Post by **AZhitman** » Sat Jul 28, 2018 10:18 pm

^ This. All this.

Making sure you're in the right, as AMC said, is important. Don't go spewing about the ambient temperature, or thinking you know why it failed. Simply state your case clearly, in an emotionless manner.

We'll be waiting for an update. Believe it or not, NNA spends quite a bit of time on this site.

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Mon Jul 30, 2018 3:47 am

The Oil warmer is also the Cooling System for the tranny and it is a small little thing that does little good. From what I understand from reading the service manual is that the oil warmer is needed for colder climates because the fluid would need to be warmed up. It also serves as a cooler because it has 2 circuits. Have you seen the chain on the oil pump? It is a tiny thing. How can you say that heating of the fluid would not cause it to thin out and cause the oil pump to work harder at pumping more than likely less fluid onto the chain? Forget about what the guy said in the video, I say this makes logical sense

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Mon Jul 30, 2018 3:58 am

AZhitman wrote: ↑
Sat Jul 28, 2018 10:18 pm
^ This. All this.

Making sure you're in the right, as AMC said, is important. Don't go spewing about the ambient temperature, or thinking you know why it failed. Simply state your case clearly, in an emotionless manner.

We'll be waiting for an update. Believe it or not, NNA spends quite a bit of time on this site.

Nissan absolutely denied any assistance with my paying for tranny, They charged me $3000
I got it back on Thursday Evening and did not really drive it until yesterday. It is much worse than it was before and I know they put in a reman but now I am getting 5 MPG and before I was getting 32 MPG. I used to get 550 miles off of a full tank and since I got it, I have driven 30 miles and it has burned 153 miles of fuel. Same gas mileage as a Peterbilt 18 Wheeler that has an Oversized Load weighing about 300K pounds.
The gauges are all over the place and the digital dashboard does not match the speedometer.
I used to get 6000 RPMS at 60 MPH now I only get 1500 RPMs at 60 MPH. When I accelerate it drags and when I turn on the AC it makes noise and also drags on the car.
I am taking it back to dealer this morning and I will not accept anything less than how it was before. Before I brought it to them. Not only that, every day that I have been without my car, I lose $500 as I am not able to work. I am really afraid that my car will never be the same. It seems like a different car completely

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Mon Jul 30, 2018 4:02 am

Rogue One wrote: ↑
Fri Jul 27, 2018 6:49 am
If it were me (and I've done it before), I'd contact the dealership and Nissan and tell them you're filling a complaint with the Attorney General for Texas, and the Federal Trade Commission.

Yes, I am afraid this is going to get really ugly

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Mon Jul 30, 2018 4:08 am

Rogue One wrote: ↑
Fri Jul 27, 2018 6:23 am

THROWAWAYCAR wrote: ↑
Thu Jul 26, 2018 2:28 pm
Yes, I changed it at 50K. Nissan North America Absolutely says that If there are no Dealership Maintenance records for them to look at, even if you have your own maintenance records, that they will not take your records, receipts or proof that anything was ever done to your vehicle and will not assist in a replacement.
Refusing to accept your maintenance records is a violation of the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act, which is a United States federal law (15 U.S.C. § 2301 et seq.) enacted in 1975.

Do I have to get my car serviced at the dealership to keep warranty?
No. An independent mechanic, a retail chain shop, or even you yourself can do routine maintenance and repairs on your vehicle. The manufacturer or dealer can, however, require consumers to use select repair facilities if the repair services are provided to consumers free of charge under the warranty. In fact, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, which is enforced by the FTC, makes it illegal for manufacturers or dealers to claim that your warranty is void or to deny coverage under your warranty simply because someone other than the dealer did the work.

Nissan North America on the phone used this very reason as why they would not help me.
Thank you for the information. I am the one who works on my car and I have receipts showing what I purchased.
This lady named Amanda specifically told me that they will not accept records from anyone other that a Nissan dealership.
She said that and also since my mileage was 79K She said Nissan only guaranties them for 60K

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Mon Jul 30, 2018 3:02 pm

Please advise...

'
I took car back to dealership this morning with this note to them which I might add did not go over too well.

July 19, 2018
Left car here at Clay Cooley I had 489 miles left on the gas tank.
The mileage was 79561
July 30, 2018 Mileage is 79591 and I have 336 miles left on the tank.
I have driven a total of 30 miles yet Car has burned 153 miles in fuel
Before you replaced my transmission, even with the problem that I was having with the one that originally came with the car, I always got 32 mpg
When I fill up the tank, I get 550 miles before tank is empty.
I will not take this car back unless I get the same gas mileage as I did before.
Also, now this transmission jerks and surges and the gauges are all over the place.
With the good transmission, the RPM’S almost tracked the mph, now it drags.
I can go 60 mph and still only get around 1500 RPM’S
I owe 10K on this car and it is not even worth 10K. I just spent $3000 on this transmission
that does not work right.
In the service manual there are all kinds of procedures that you must do when replacing the transmission
Mainly all of the computers have to be updated.
Not only the computers for transmission but all of the computers should have been updated to the latest software that Nissan offers on this car.
The original transmission worked better that this one. When I accelerated, it did not have drag.
The miles per hour on the speedometer matched the digital readout which it does not now.
I always got 32 mpg and 550 miles per full tank and I will not accept anything less.
Either the transmission that you installed is defective or who ever installed it, did not follow all of the procedures and set it up correctly.
Also, I notice a significant drag on car now when the AC is turned on and noise that was not there before.
Last week, I had to give away $2000 to 2500 in business away to other people because I did not have my car and this I had to cancel the work that I had for today. Every day, that I do not have my car, I am losing $500.
I do not want it back unless it is right and what I paid to have done and my car works as good as it did before you put this transmission in my car.
I DID NOT HAVE ANY ISSUES AT ALL WITH MY CAR BEFORE I LEFT IT HERE WITH YOU except for the transmission. Now, there seem to multiple issues with my car.
My car is getting 5 MPG

I want a transmission put in that comes from Canton, Mississippi
and NOT made in Mexico
Also, in 1975 a law was passed regarding maintenance of vehicles and dealerships are required to accept maintenance records from other places or records of the maintenance that I have done myself.
Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act, which is a United States federal law (15 U.S.C. § 2301 et seq.) enacted in 1975.

Service Manager had an attitude with me and said something like he did not like the way I was acting.
I told him it is because this car has put me out of work.

I left car there and came home and within 30 mins they called and said to come get it and there was nothing wrong.
They will not take my word that it is not right and do not seem concerned about the fuel mileage.

They told me that it would level out after I go through this tank and it may take a month before it straightens out.

Am I in the TWILIGHT ZONE?????

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Mon Jul 30, 2018 3:11 pm

Is there a way to reply without using the quote?

Post by **amc49** » Mon Jul 30, 2018 5:57 pm

'How can you say that heating of the fluid would not cause it to thin out and cause the oil pump to work harder at pumping more than likely less fluid onto the chain?'

It's wrong for one thing, hotter thinner fluid is ALWAYS EASIER to pump than cold thicker. Any mechanical oil pressure gauge will show one that in a second. The pump pretty much does not change in loading either, the bypass valve that sets up the pressure is what changes operation there. Besides that ALL hydro fluids change viscosity when hot, the VBs are set up to work with that by modifying working pressures on the fly to make up for it.

As for using Clay Cooley as the dealer, can't help you there, one of the biggest crooks in the D/FW area. I walked out on them at buying a new car because they kept UPPING the absolute price of the car while trying to bury an $8000 down payment in the monthly payments. At the end they wanted me paying as much in monthly payments as the car was without any down at all. Then when I called them crazy they actually physically blocked the back of my car so I couldn't get out of the parking lot. I told 4 sales and managerial people there that I was leaving and anyone who kept standing there would be backed over and I meant it. They STILL were stupid enough to try to block the car but at the last realized I was serious.

2 hours later I bought same car at another dealership and saving well over $230/month in payments, those Cooley people were freakin' CRAZY.

The Clay Cooley group is the last one I would purchase anything from at all, they will politely insinuate that you are misinformed or a liar if you simply bring in a deal you heard that morning on one of their commercials. I know, I recorded one and played it back to their salespeople when they told me I must be mistaken. I asked in the meeting at least 5 times what the realworld retail car price was they were charging and not once got an answer, yet the second place I went to gave me that virtually instantly. It became just as clear that the original Cooley saleswoman was a plant to pacify me, she put the sex to work and hard but that doesn't impress me at all, finally I got tired of it and called her out on it and they changed her out for another woman who could not understand basic math done to get car payments from a retail price. Every time she 'renegotiated' to what was supposed to be a BETTER deal for me my monthly payment went Up $50-$75 bucks. After like 4 rounds of 'let's get even more stupid', I had had enough and popped my cork.

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Mon Jul 30, 2018 11:24 pm

amc49 wrote: ↑
Mon Jul 30, 2018 5:57 pm
'How can you say that heating of the fluid would not cause it to thin out and cause the oil pump to work harder at pumping more than likely less fluid onto the chain?'

It's wrong for one thing, hotter thinner fluid is ALWAYS EASIER to pump than cold thicker. Any mechanical <a class="vglnk" title="Link added by VigLink" target="_blank" href="http://i.viglink.com/?key=97a6e2e747f97 ... %2Fspan%3E" rel="nofollow">oil pressure gauge</a> will show one that in a second. The pump pretty much does not change in loading either, the bypass valve that sets up the pressure is what changes operation there. Besides that ALL hydro fluids change viscosity when hot, the VBs are set up to work with that by modifying working pressures on the fly to make up for it.

As for using Clay Cooley as the dealer, can't help you there, one of the biggest crooks in the D/FW area. I walked out on them at buying a new car because they kept UPPING the absolute price of the car while trying to bury an $8000 down payment in the monthly payments. At the end they wanted me paying as much in monthly payments as the car was without any down at all. Then when I called them crazy they actually physically blocked the back of my car so I couldn't get out of the parking lot. I told 4 sales and managerial people there that I was leaving and anyone who kept standing there would be backed over and I meant it. They STILL were stupid enough to try to block the car but at the last realized I was serious.

2 hours later I bought same car at another dealership and saving well over $230/month in payments, those Cooley people were freakin' CRAZY.

The Clay Cooley group is the last one I would purchase anything from at all, they will politely insinuate that you are misinformed or a liar if you simply bring in a deal you heard that morning on one of their commercials. I know, I recorded one and played it back to their salespeople when they told me I must be mistaken. I asked in the meeting at least 5 times what the realworld retail car price was they were charging and not once got an answer, yet the second place I went to gave me that virtually instantly. It became just as clear that the original Cooley saleswoman was a plant to pacify me, she put the sex to work and hard but that doesn't impress me at all, finally I got tired of it and called her out on it and they changed her out for another woman who could not understand basic math done to get car payments from a retail price. Every time she 'renegotiated' to what was supposed to be a BETTER deal for me my monthly payment went Up $50-$75 bucks. After like 4 rounds of 'let's get even more stupid', I had had enough and popped my cork.
I did not buy my car there. I used them for the transmission because they were the closest dealer to me. I would never buy a car from them. I already knew that they are not an Actual Dealer. The only Nissan dealerships that I consider to be an Official dealership in this area is Trophy Nissan. All of the others that were bought out by Clay Cooley are Nissan dealerships by name only.

All they needed to do when I picked up my car is to explain that my car and transmission needed to reaquainted and that it would take driving it for a tank of gas or a couple hundred miles before the MPG the Vehicle display, the speedometer and the DTE miles would level out. It is getting better after I drove it for close to 70 miles tonight just to get it back on track. So you have a Nissan now? You bought it knowing about the CVT's before hand?

Post by **amc49** » Tue Jul 31, 2018 8:54 am

Yes.

If a trans messes up I will likely rebuild it as I have on every other car I've ever owned. No dealer or other ever touches one of my cars after I buy it, I do 100% of whatever is needed myself. I have never paid for a car repair in 40+ years.

Of course that may mean I have bit off more than I can chew, but so far it has never happened. I rebuilt CVTs in the print industry, lots of equipments use them. The CVT automatics are actually quite a bit more simple inside than the standard ATX is.

Hey, I could have made a massive mistake, it has to happen sooner or later but relying on my skills to pull my fat out of the fire like I have with everything else.

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Tue Jul 31, 2018 10:39 am

After seeing the videos on youtube the CVT failure Analysis part 1 and part 2 by Pine Hollow Auto repair and seeing even just the millions of belt pieces blown everywhere and the broken bands there is no way i would ever attempt to do it.
How long does it take you to rebuild one? Do you do other peoples? I use my car for my work and I just cannot wait for a rebuild. I am a pilot car for oversized loads. I really had no choice because I have been out of work already for 2 weeks and it is hard to get my grove on and get back to work.

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Tue Jul 31, 2018 12:25 pm

amc49 wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 31, 2018 8:54 am
Yes.

If a trans messes up I will likely rebuild it as I have on every other car I've ever owned. No dealer or other ever touches one of my cars after I buy it, I do 100% of whatever is needed myself. I have never paid for a car repair in 40+ years.

Of course that may mean I have bit off more than I can chew, but so far it has never happened. I rebuilt CVTs in the print industry, lots of equipments use them. The CVT automatics are actually quite a bit more simple inside than the standard ATX is.

Hey, I could have made a massive mistake, it has to happen sooner or later but relying on my skills to pull my fat out of the fire like I have with everything else.

I tried to replied to you and I did reply but, how come you cannot reply without quoting on this forum?

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Tue Jul 31, 2018 2:44 pm

Rogue One wrote: ↑
Fri Jul 27, 2018 6:23 am

THROWAWAYCAR wrote: ↑
Thu Jul 26, 2018 2:28 pm
Yes, I changed it at 50K. Nissan North America Absolutely says that If there are no Dealership Maintenance records for them to look at, even if you have your own maintenance records, that they will not take your records, receipts or proof that anything was ever done to your vehicle and will not assist in a replacement.
Refusing to accept your maintenance records is a violation of the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act, which is a United States federal law (15 U.S.C. § 2301 et seq.) enacted in 1975.

Do I have to get my car serviced at the dealership to keep warranty?
No. An independent mechanic, a retail chain shop, or even you yourself can do routine maintenance and repairs on your vehicle. The manufacturer or dealer can, however, require consumers to use select repair facilities if the repair services are provided to consumers free of charge under the warranty. In fact, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, which is enforced by the FTC, makes it illegal for manufacturers or dealers to claim that your warranty is void or to deny coverage under your warranty simply because someone other than the dealer did the work.

BTW the transmission was not under warranty I had 79K miles on it. I suspect that this law applies to vehicles that are still under the warranty from the manufacturer which in my case was 60K miles.

Post by **amc49** » Tue Jul 31, 2018 6:30 pm

Likely you are posting out of a quoted window or the like, the site easily posts with no quotes at all if wanted.

My days of work for others are pretty much done, I walked away from a turnkey family garage due to my lack of patience with customers, they always wanted something for nothing, the cars themselves by contrast stayed fixed and they don't argue back. I mainly spent my life running and repairing big web offset printing presses with computers on them from one end to the other. I commanded complete crews my entire life pretty much.

I have never rebuilt a car automatic CVT but I recognize the parts and what they do in a blowup or cutaway and I never had done all the ATX I rebuilt before either, it means nothing. All I need is a service manual with clearance and torque specs and I can even wing those without it if needed. I have not had a personal ATX rebuild last under 15 years so far but CVT may break that record if I have to go there. You can really do nothing for a unit that is simply not designed strong enough to do what it must.

The CVT chain or belt has a million pieces in it but it never should come apart in normal use to worry about it. The idea being to fix the trans before that happens. I hear a lot of talk about 'whine'; that will be the belt slipping and the only warning you get before blowup I'm betting.

I DO take relatively forever to rebuild a trans and why I keep 3 to 4 older cars up and running at all times, it allows for that. It being death to be down to only one car. I rebuild in far more detail than you could ever pay for and why they always last often longer than the new one did. There is no shop on the planet that does that as they have no way to pay those that competent and why now we simply yank trans to put in another, rebuild skills are dead as it costs money to teach them and then the valuable employee quits to get more money elsewhere. Even the dealerships won't pay for that type of skill now, easier to go third party vendor to blame them when things mess up. The way of capitalism nowadays, they want the maximum buck and no responsibility for the resulting crap product delivered as a result of that.

Look close at the Renault/Nissan 'takeover', that billionaire at the top has no interest in being the best car brand, it is to sell the MOST cars and to mostly indigent countries that have populations dumb enough to not know any better. America, with millions of $8/hr. employees that want the cars of their parents who made effectively much more, and vote an idiot into the WH who simply has to say 'they are his people', is ready for Nissan and it has hit bigtime. I used to buy American Motors cars back in the day and Renault took them over to do the exact same thing and it bankrupted the company, not that it was that well off before, but Renault put that into turbo-overdrive with engine and transmission platforms that went BACKWARDS in life and performance. The Nissan CVT thing is more of the same, the transmissions are used because they cost half what a normal one does and more money for the billionaire while people sort out things to figure out that the once great car brand has turned to utter crap since about the year 2K or so.

I personally went to Ford in '78, and stayed loyal until they began to do the same stuff as here. 2 Nissans now and likely the last ones, this marque is as messed up as Ford. Likely the rest of them are as well. I went Japanese as I always appreciated the finer detail they put into things from back in my motorcycle days, but this company has lost most of that, they have no problem putting out as cheap a piece of crap as any other crap company out there.

Post by **Rogue One** » Wed Aug 01, 2018 8:37 am

THROWAWAYCAR wrote: ↑
Wed Jul 25, 2018 4:57 pm
...
At 79K miles my 2016 Nissan Altima S has failed and dealer is replacing tranny.
Dealer tried to make me understand that the normal cost would be 4200 to replace but to make it seem more appealing to me they said they would discount it to 3300. But I know it will be a reman and it is still too expensive

Nissan consumer affairs is absolutely no help whatsoever...

So I'm lost here. Why would you try to involve NNA if the warranty for your CVT had already expired and you were aware of that fact? If I'm reading things right, you have a two year old car with extremely high mileage and you're upset because, what? The CVT didn't last forever? One of the downsides of owning a vehicle is the fact that parts fail, and sometimes that happens sooner than expected. It's even happened to me.

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Wed Aug 01, 2018 4:30 pm

To Rogue:

Excuse Me? Are you serious? You call 79K high mileage? I guess you are used to driving Nissans. 79K is nothing. I have another vehicle that the warranty is good for 100K miles and they say to not even change the fluid until 100K miles. Right now that vehicle has 330K miles with the original transmission and the original motor. Usually, if you take care of a vehicle it will last for a very long time. If it was a good design or manufactured vehicle to begin with. Yes, a manager that used to work at a Nissan dealership told me that these transmissions have very high failure rates, he suggested that I mentioned that and even with the number of miles that I have, to get assistance on replacing it. Nissan knows they have problems with these. And, from what I have experienced already dealing with Nissan America, is they do not stand behind their product and talking to them about anything so far is a complete waste of time.

I have not even had my car back for 1 week and I have been so easy driving it wondering when it will crash again because they put a reman transmission that I just spent 3200 for. Well, it has a drag on it and today when I put it in reverse, it had a loud whine. But, supposedly they only reuse the case to the transmission. This is in no way the car that I had before and the car that I still owe 10K on. I am upside down already since I just spent 3200 and I ordered OEM front and rear bumper covers and for 400 plus i need to spend another $700 for a paint job just to get it to where I can try to sell it or trade it in. Trade in is only $9000. So, what am I supposed to be celebrating what a good car I have? Hell no, I have a POS throwaway car. I really like my car before they put this reman in. I made double payments all last year to try and get the loan down. It did not matter. It is losing value much faster than I can pay it off.

Maybe you do not have a real car to compare it to.

Post by **THROWAWAYCAR** » Wed Aug 01, 2018 4:40 pm

Rogue One wrote: ↑
Wed Aug 01, 2018 8:37 am

THROWAWAYCAR wrote: ↑
Wed Jul 25, 2018 4:57 pm
...
At 79K miles my 2016 Nissan Altima S has failed and dealer is replacing tranny.
Dealer tried to make me understand that the normal cost would be 4200 to replace but to make it seem more appealing to me they said they would discount it to 3300. But I know it will be a reman and it is still too expensive

Nissan consumer affairs is absolutely no help whatsoever...
So I'm lost here. Why would you try to involve NNA if the warranty for your CVT had already expired and you were aware of that fact? If I'm reading things right, you have a two year old car with extremely high mileage and you're upset because, what? The CVT didn't last forever? One of the downsides of owning a vehicle is the fact that parts fail, and sometimes that happens sooner than expected. It's even happened to me.

Excuse Me? Are you serious? You call 79K high mileage? I guess you are used to driving Nissans. 79K is nothing. I have another vehicle that the warranty is good for 100K miles and they say to not even change the fluid until 100K miles. Right now that vehicle has 330K miles with the original transmission and the original motor. Usually, if you take care of a vehicle it will last for a very long time. If it was a good design or manufactured vehicle to begin with. Yes, a manager that used to work at a Nissan dealership told me that these transmissions have very high failure rates, he suggested that I mentioned that and even with the number of miles that I have, to get assistance on replacing it. Nissan knows they have problems with these. And, from what I have experienced already dealing with Nissan America, is they do not stand behind their product and talking to them about anything so far is a complete waste of time.

I have not even had my car back for 1 week and I have been so easy driving it wondering when it will crash again because they put a reman transmission that I just spent 3200 for. Well, it has a drag on it and today when I put it in reverse, it had a loud whine. But, supposedly they only reuse the case to the transmission. This is in no way the car that I had before and the car that I still owe 10K on. I am upside down already since I just spent 3200 and I ordered OEM front and rear bumper covers and for 400 plus i need to spend another $700 for a paint job just to get it to where I can try to sell it or trade it in. Trade in is only $9000. So, what am I supposed to be celebrating what a good car I have? Hell no, I have a POS throwaway car. I really like my car before they put this reman in. I made double payments all last year to try and get the loan down. It did not matter. It is losing value much faster than I can pay it off.

Maybe you do not have a real car to compare it to. Maybe you should try a vehicle that does not have a CVT. You can actually pay one off before you have to worry about replacing a transmission. Vehicles that you take care of an do regular maintenance on do last forever.

TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

Re: TEXAS CLIMATE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR NISSAN CVT'S

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