Tension rod bushings

[keef66]

I noticed a leak on the garage floor, which I figured out was due to the cracked rubber bushing on the tension rod. What's the best thing to do now? Replace just the bushing? The one rod? Both front rods?

Also, how soon do I need to do this, and am I possibly causing further damage by driving? I know that my alignment may be screwed up, but is there something more serious?

KK

[maxnix]

Welcome to our board!

Accelerated wear will ensue if the bushings are not replaced forthwith.

You can get the bushings from http://www.infinitpartsusa.com and have them pressed in. About 2 hours for shop time.

[keef66]

Thanks for the reply, but what do you mean "pressed in"? Are they spring loaded, needed a special press to put them in place? In other words, are you saying this is not something I can do myself?

K

[texasoil]

You can do it yourself IF you know how and have a BIG hammer. I use pipe coupling that just fits inside the arm 'circle, and a larger PVC coupling to rest the arm in. Then I smash it with an 8# maul. Usually takes 2 blows out, 2 in. It WOULD be so nice to have a 10ton hydraulic bench press though.

[maxnix]

Tight tolerances. 10 ton press is best as there is little chance of damage if you have the correctly sized drifts. Any machine shop can do it for you.

The arrows face forward.
Modified by maxnix at 6:20 AM 4/25/2007

[elwesso]

Actually you are supposed to point the arrow toward the tension rod.. So it would be facing back toward the rod itself.

Any shop that has a press should be able to do this for you.. just take the new bushings and old rods there and they shouldnt charge more than a few $$ to press in/press out.

[keef66]

Thanks to all. I've ordered the bushing and will take rods/bushings to machine shop or mechanic. Appreciate the help.

KK

[maxnix]

Actually you are supposed to point the arrow toward the tension rod.. So it would be facing back toward the rod itself.

Whiile this is indeed what the manual specifies, every other component with an arrow points in the direction of travel, forward. It wouldn't be the first mistake members have discovered in the FSM.
Modified by maxnix at 6:22 AM 4/25/2007

[elwesso]

well if the arrow was facing forward it would be pointing AGAINST the direction of travel.. Nearly everything on this car that has paint marks has it going toward the inboard part of the car... Idler pullies have a paint mark on the back so that side faces the motor, the upper links have a paint mark to determine which side goes on the INSIDE...

I cant think itd make a huge difference either way, though.

[ponzy]

how about the adjustable tension rod from skyline using bearing instead of a rubber which is, based on my research here in the forum, will fit on the G50? the cost of a new tension rod + bushing + labor on having the bushing pressed on a shop = $250 on a new adjustable tension rod? right or wrong, cause actually i dont have any idea?

Is it the same performance/ purpose or it's still better to use OEM parts for lowered springs and/or with FSB(28mm), RSB(20mm)?....

I'm tired man, i even dont understand my own question

The reason why i asked this is because i bought a RSB/FSB(20mm/28mm) and i'll be doing my suspension in 1-2 months now.....please advice.... thanks

[elwesso]

you can replace JUST the bushing, you dont have to replace the whole tension rod.... The bushing is something like $20

you can also use skyline/Z32/240sx tension rods on teh G50. Thats what Im running and have been for over a year.

[Q451990]

To add to the bushing arrow debate if you buy the whole tension rod assembly, the bushings come installed with the arrow facing toward the front of the car. Same for the originals from the factory I removed from Q2 that had never been replaced.



Heath

[Gerardjg]

Before I start a new thread this looks like a good place for my Question

I just purchased 2 Original Nissan bushings to put into my newly acquired 1997 J30 part # Nissan 54476-35F20

After pressing out the 2 old ones I find that the new ones are to small. The ones that came out are 70mm OD the new ones and the ones in my 1995J30 are 64mm OD. per every were I look they should both be the smaller ones.

Did the 1997 have a different size rod or does this car have the wrong rods installed?

If these rods are from another vehicle can someone look up the part number of the 70MM od bushing so I can order these.

Thanks

[Bibendum]

I'll ask here since this is the best I can find already started..dealer replaced tension rods on my 94 J30..now the car rides very very stiff..any of you know why? the car was smooth before, they are clueless...

much thanksE

[maxnix]

For the former, call Joe.

http://www.infinitipartsusa.com

For the latter, if the final torque is applied with the front wheels unloaded while the car is on the lift, the bushing will be stressed when the wheel is loaded and the bushing will fail sooner.

[Bibendum]

so if they were tightened in the air would the car ride stiffer then? am I understanding correctly? if yes then should I need to loosen and bounce up and down and then tighten back?

Anybody please let me know you thoughts. I just do not think that struts would go out just by replacing the rods.

Again thanksE
Modified by Bibendum at 12:39 PM 4/25/2007

[Gerardjg]

[QUOTE=maxnix]For the former, call Joe.

That was several months ago but that is what I did. My 97 J Has Q45 w activerods, so I just got the bushings for those rods.

[maxnix]

so if they were tightened in the air would the car ride stiffer then? am I understanding correctly? if yes then should I need to loosen and bounce up and down and then tighten back?

Anybody please let me know you thoughts. I just do not think that struts would go out just by replacing the rods.

Failing struts would not result in a stiffer ride.

Read the FSM. The final torque is applied with the suspension is loaded.

[Bibendum]

Thx maxnix, on my way to get an alignment (new tires) and then I can have them while on the rack loosen and re-tighten.

Thanks