s13-t wrote:Does your heater work? Does it start pushing warm air pretty quickly after a cold start? Does the engine warm up to operating temp quickly or does it seem to take forever? Reason I ask is because the situation you describe matches a problem I had with an old honda. Turned out to be that my thermastat was stuck wide open. Thermostats are cheap so id say buy one, replace it and see if it fixes your problem. fixed mine.
yeah my heater works fine, it melted the ice that was on my windsheild yesterday morningprobably 4 min after i started the car, it SEEMS like its taking just a little more than before but im not exactly sure. no offense but i just want to understand this better, how does the wide open thermostat cause my temp gauge to go down when i step on the gas?Bstrd240SX wrote:i second the themostat suggestion. sounds like its stuck in a position that allows about the right amount of coolant flow for the car to warm up when the water pump is spinning its slowest
a thermostat is a valve thats ment to keep the proper amount of heat in the enginerms13Mike wrote:no offense but i just want to understand this better, how does the wide open thermostat cause my temp gauge to go down when i step on the gas?
alright thanks, ill check it, do you happen to know where is the ground for the sensor? or any other ground/power places that relates to the temp sensor?Cone Junky wrote:The 2 pin water sender is for the ECU and the single pin sender next to it is for the gauge. I would try to tighten up that connection first. maybe the accell is just enough for it to wiggle and lose connection. If not, check all your grounds and wires for possible breaks (if it were a short to ground it would peg at full hot.)
yea thanks i know what the thermostat does, i guess you thought that it goes down and stays there as if my water cooled down, i meant that it bounces when i step on the gasBstrd240SX wrote:
a thermostat is a valve thats ment to keep the proper amount of heat in the engine
picture that your in the kitchen making a huge christmas dinner, its 30 outside, you want the kitchen to be 70 because thats a comfortable temp, but the oven / stove is making it 120 in the kitchen
so what do you do? you open a window just enough to make the room 70* for yourself, all is well and good ... this is your car idling
now a storm kicks up outside and the wind starts to blow hard, the room temp drops because you have way more airflow through the open window, this is what happens when you start to drive ... the coolants moving faster thru the engine so it doent get as warm anymore, just like the stove isnt cranking out enough heat to keep the air in the room warm anymore
make sense ?
ooh i see, so maybe bleeding the coolant could work. taking the radiator cap and running it till bubbles stop popping out?H8tred wrote:Not saying that this is your problem, but air in the coolant passages can do this as well. I just put my aluminum radiator in due to the stocker taking a crap on my finally. I cut the overflow hose while routing it past the new rad and didn't know it. It was enough to allow coolant to get pushed out and air to make it's way back in.
Just another place to check.
I just went through this the other night. The terminal at the 1 wire sensor was loose. I just took the wire off and tried putting a little solder on the sensor where the terminal comes out. Fixed it. I also got some electrical cleaner and cleaned both ECU temp sensor, and Dash sensor connections. Its worked fine for the last week.Cone Junky wrote:The 2 pin water sender is for the ECU and the single pin sender next to it is for the gauge. I would try to tighten up that connection first. maybe the accell is just enough for it to wiggle and lose connection. If not, check all your grounds and wires for possible breaks (if it were a short to ground it would peg at full hot.)