Well...Darinz is trying to convince me to go to a full standalone. I'd love to go to one just to clean up my wiring harness and simplify my sensors since I'm trying to hook up a digital Racepak dash too.
There's a few issues here
Well...the first one is justifying the cost since I probably won't see much of any performance gain. I'll be ready for future upgrades (I'd like to go forced induction as soon as my Pathfinder is running again!) but it's tough for me to justify it on a rebuilt "4.6L" VH with basically just an intake and exhaust for performance modifications.
2nd...did you adapt your OEM crank angle sensor to your Autronic ECU? Did you keep your Variable Valve Timing? I guess I've never understood why almost nobody who does aftermarket ECUs or cams keeps the VVT. It seems like it helps a ton on the low end but it's always quick to get thrown out.
3rd...which one do I want? It sounds like Megasquirt is a waste as the factory ECU is better. Motec is pretty expensive (there's a few second hand units for $1500 with no accessories). I think Darinz is running a Autronic? Seems like a Z32 AEM unit could be adapted pretty easily but is it an upgrade from stock? A lot of the ECUs seem to only run 4 or 6 cylinders. Nistune? (means not getting rid of the harness!!!)
Honestly, I'd love to scrap half the wiring harness and go to a new ECU. There's a few things holding me back, but if it's really better I may have to put more thought into it.
Tell me about going to a Standalone ECU
Re: Tell me about going to a Standalone ECU (tmorgan4)
Well since you are blaming me for this I'd better respond
I'm running an Autronic SMC and an Autronic CDi.The biggest problem with the model I have and 8 cylinders is the lack of aux outputs. eg only one which was used for VVT. This meant I had to run fans, boost control etc manually. If I put the SM4 in then it had 8 outputs so no dramas.Running the CDi means no worries about ignitors and give much better dwell control. It also gives huge spark.Again due to running the low spec model I'm running wasted spark rather than full sequential ignition that the higher spec models would.
I made the decision to go with a top end brand and use a low spec model to keep costs down as the use I'm giving it is pretty hard so didn't want cheap cheap gear.
So with my setup I have sensors for, intake temp, MAP, TPS, water temp, and CAS. The advantages are, no MAF, no oxygen, no emissions crap etc. I was running mine on Avgas eg real leaded fuel, so not very environmental but the tuning advantages are pretty good.
I put a new disc inside the CAS that was supplied with the ECU. It is a standard thing to do with most Nissans aparently.
Originally we didn't run the VVT but that was due to running out of injector at 6000rpm so there was no need. It was planned just didn't happen and then I ran out of money to fit 8 new injectors. The 375rwhp was on factory injectors at 6000rpm and no VVT. You could say I will have a wee bit more once new injectors and vvt is used!
In the new build I'm refitting the same ecu / cdi but will get a frequency switch for the VVT and use the output for boost control. The fans are run via a thermo switch and I have manual over ride to turn them off completely when in water and on if the motor is hot and I need to turn it off. The old setup use to thermo syphon really well and it would cool really well when the engine was off.
From a wiring point of view, i used new plugs for everything bar the coils where I just cut the wire close to the plug then soldered and heat shrank new wire on. It meant there were 2 very simple looms. One for the CDi and one for injection and engine sensors. With this there is plugs to the sensor and nothing else until the ECU. Simple and very reliable.
The whole key to it is getting a very good tune done. I don't run knock sensors etc so the engine life is completely down to how good the engine tuner was. If he gets it wrong the computer will only step in when it gets hot, detonation will just keeo happening. That being said you can run knock sensors, oxygen etc it just depends how far you want of need to go.
Another thing I really liked is the easy of changing the tune. I have had a couple of tunes done and it means plug the laptop in and download a different tune. The idea for me was being able to reduce the power when in the dry and tune it up when it is wet. The total power I have isn't needed when it is dry as when there is traction we just don't use the power.
Anything else??
I'm running an Autronic SMC and an Autronic CDi.The biggest problem with the model I have and 8 cylinders is the lack of aux outputs. eg only one which was used for VVT. This meant I had to run fans, boost control etc manually. If I put the SM4 in then it had 8 outputs so no dramas.Running the CDi means no worries about ignitors and give much better dwell control. It also gives huge spark.Again due to running the low spec model I'm running wasted spark rather than full sequential ignition that the higher spec models would.
I made the decision to go with a top end brand and use a low spec model to keep costs down as the use I'm giving it is pretty hard so didn't want cheap cheap gear.
So with my setup I have sensors for, intake temp, MAP, TPS, water temp, and CAS. The advantages are, no MAF, no oxygen, no emissions crap etc. I was running mine on Avgas eg real leaded fuel, so not very environmental but the tuning advantages are pretty good.
I put a new disc inside the CAS that was supplied with the ECU. It is a standard thing to do with most Nissans aparently.
Originally we didn't run the VVT but that was due to running out of injector at 6000rpm so there was no need. It was planned just didn't happen and then I ran out of money to fit 8 new injectors. The 375rwhp was on factory injectors at 6000rpm and no VVT. You could say I will have a wee bit more once new injectors and vvt is used!
In the new build I'm refitting the same ecu / cdi but will get a frequency switch for the VVT and use the output for boost control. The fans are run via a thermo switch and I have manual over ride to turn them off completely when in water and on if the motor is hot and I need to turn it off. The old setup use to thermo syphon really well and it would cool really well when the engine was off.
From a wiring point of view, i used new plugs for everything bar the coils where I just cut the wire close to the plug then soldered and heat shrank new wire on. It meant there were 2 very simple looms. One for the CDi and one for injection and engine sensors. With this there is plugs to the sensor and nothing else until the ECU. Simple and very reliable.
The whole key to it is getting a very good tune done. I don't run knock sensors etc so the engine life is completely down to how good the engine tuner was. If he gets it wrong the computer will only step in when it gets hot, detonation will just keeo happening. That being said you can run knock sensors, oxygen etc it just depends how far you want of need to go.
Another thing I really liked is the easy of changing the tune. I have had a couple of tunes done and it means plug the laptop in and download a different tune. The idea for me was being able to reduce the power when in the dry and tune it up when it is wet. The total power I have isn't needed when it is dry as when there is traction we just don't use the power.
Anything else??
Re: Tell me about going to a Standalone ECU (darinz)
THANK YOU darinz!!!! I need another day to finish reading up on this....thanks so much for taking the time to type this out!
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solidglobe
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Sun Oct 09, 2005 3:57 pm
Re: Tell me about going to a Standalone ECU (darinz)
I would like to get some info about the autronix. i have been looking at aem but since not in a hurry to buy i still have options. i was wanting that i can still use factory coil packs and cam sensor. i would like to ask some questions if you have time. thanks.