Team Pwncaeks
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Project240
- Posts: 773
- Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2003 5:42 pm
Trying to decide between clutches.Right now, I have about $800 to spend on bits and pieces for the swap. I'd LIKE to do some sort of a clutch upgrade but that costs quite a bit. $330 from P2M (Exedy RB25 clutch) rated at 372ft/lb or $285 from HorsePowerFreaks.com (ACT NA 300ZX) that's rated at "59% Torque Capacity Increase." I have no idea what that works out to but we'll see. But then there's an OEM NA 300ZX clutch kit on eBay from high rated seller for like 93 bones. I'm kinda leaning towards that because well, I'm a poor white boy.
Hopefully, the clutch, and timing and AC belts will be ordered by tonight.
Hopefully, the clutch, and timing and AC belts will be ordered by tonight.
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whoflungpoo
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2003 8:30 am
- Car: 2006 Infinity G35 Sedan
2003 Evolution VIII
I know where you can get a 6 puck and pressure plate, an OEM, or a centerforce copy for a good price... it's a guy local here in louisville who rebuilds/manufactures his own, but i'm sure he'd ship one to ya.
it's called Kentucky clutch, here's a link with the phone # and a map too... -CLICKY- He's got a very heavy southern drawl, but he's real knowledgeable about his stuff. it's at least worth checking out.
I've got an OE style clutch of his in my 240, and I know the DSM guys around here use the hell out of the 6 pucks that he makes. If they'll stand up to AWD launches, they're okay in my book.
it's called Kentucky clutch, here's a link with the phone # and a map too... -CLICKY- He's got a very heavy southern drawl, but he's real knowledgeable about his stuff. it's at least worth checking out.
I've got an OE style clutch of his in my 240, and I know the DSM guys around here use the hell out of the 6 pucks that he makes. If they'll stand up to AWD launches, they're okay in my book.
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Project240
- Posts: 773
- Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2003 5:42 pm
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Project240
- Posts: 773
- Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2003 5:42 pm
One problem with lowering it in is that you have to position the chains *just right* on the engine, so that when you put it on the hoist and lift it up, it sits level, the way it's supposed to in the engine bay. Consider the fact that you have an engine and trans lifted high up over an engine bay that's already a little too small to accomodate it, and you're angling the whole driveline downwards at like a 45 degree angle as you drop it into the bay; you have to drop it an inch, push it against the firewall, drop it an inch, push on it, etc etc. Even with the driveline pushed up against the firewall as we were dropping it in, the crank pulley took some coercing just to fit past the body where the radiator bolts on.
Basically, it's an extremely tight fit. It took us well over 2 hours just to drop it into the bay. If the engine's leaning to one side at all, you will not be able to line the mount bolts up to the holes in the crossmember. Plus, it is WAAAAAY too easy to crush stuff this way; we crushed a power steering line where it enters the steering rack, and now I'm gonna have to go back, cut it off and reconnect it with high pressure line. Add to that the hernia that I almost got standing on top of the car and pulling up on one side of the motor to get it level just so the bolts would fall in, and it's just a hell of a lot more trouble than its worth.
If I were you, what I would do is use the engine hoist to lift the front end of the car up really high, slide the driveline under the car, and lower the car onto it. Once the car's low enough, set it on jackstands, unhook the engine hoist, and use the hoist to raise the driveline into place and bolt the crossmember to the frame. This doesn't require any more tools than if you dropped it in from above; me and my friend pulled it off in my driveway (the more difficult way) with nothing more than a hoist, a couple jackstands, a pep boys $19.99 floor jack and some boards
Basically, it's an extremely tight fit. It took us well over 2 hours just to drop it into the bay. If the engine's leaning to one side at all, you will not be able to line the mount bolts up to the holes in the crossmember. Plus, it is WAAAAAY too easy to crush stuff this way; we crushed a power steering line where it enters the steering rack, and now I'm gonna have to go back, cut it off and reconnect it with high pressure line. Add to that the hernia that I almost got standing on top of the car and pulling up on one side of the motor to get it level just so the bolts would fall in, and it's just a hell of a lot more trouble than its worth.
If I were you, what I would do is use the engine hoist to lift the front end of the car up really high, slide the driveline under the car, and lower the car onto it. Once the car's low enough, set it on jackstands, unhook the engine hoist, and use the hoist to raise the driveline into place and bolt the crossmember to the frame. This doesn't require any more tools than if you dropped it in from above; me and my friend pulled it off in my driveway (the more difficult way) with nothing more than a hoist, a couple jackstands, a pep boys $19.99 floor jack and some boards
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Project240
- Posts: 773
- Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2003 5:42 pm
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BoyWonder
- Posts: 864
- Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2004 10:51 am
- Car: '93 Nissan 240SX S13 Convertible (reclaimed... wootles)
- Contact:
The car has been in the street for awhile now.. we needed somewhere to put the clip, and work on the other car 
Update on the vert: As soon as I can get this transmission from Rob, pick up the resurfaced flywheel, and drill a hole for the master cylinder, I'll be set. New Clutch, Pressure Plate, throwout bearing, master cyliner, and slave cylinder - just a used hard line and transmission.
Update on the vert: As soon as I can get this transmission from Rob, pick up the resurfaced flywheel, and drill a hole for the master cylinder, I'll be set. New Clutch, Pressure Plate, throwout bearing, master cyliner, and slave cylinder - just a used hard line and transmission.
