teach me something about my setup.

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5upra
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HU-old sony 35w x 4(max) 120W 2ch(max) to rear speakers(6.5in)

Now heres where I get stuck...I figure that I would have about 18wRMS going to each rear speaker wire into the amp. Now coming out of the amp would add up to be 78wRMS? So I need to look for a speaker that has a 80wRMS or greater correct?

I am really looking to a system with depth but doesn't need to be "king kong in the trunk". I plan a different more powerful HU in future so that helps, but do I ditch this amp idea and just get a small power sub? Never heard the powered woofers(ie. bazooka tube), but heard an amped 6x9 setup and its perfect. Really trying to keep the trunk clean.Anyway tell me if I am an idiot I am a noob


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the converted
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Welcome Noob!

First of all what brand/model is your 120w max amp? The car stereo industry is ridiculously inconsistent when it comes to power ratings, I've seen 1000w amps that struggle to get 100w out and 300w amps that can run a small city. amplifiers don't add power to what the head unit already has. When your running an amplifier you are using the rca connections as opposed to the speaker outputs to get the signal to the amp.

If your really looking for good sound quality adding a sub is one of the few ways to really fill in the bottom. Keeping a clean trunk is somewhat difficult in these cars but not entirely impossible if you want to get creative.

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5upra
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its a Audiovox UPA224CS...tried searching it for more info but didn't get what I wanted.

have you or anyone heard the result of powered 6.5" bazooka, or any of the other small powered subs on crutchfield?

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the converted
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From what I could find on that amp it's going to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 25w per channel. The bazooka tubes sound ok i guess. They are essentially a strange bandpass box and will sound accordingly. A similar product that sounds probably a little better even though I'm not to fond of them is the infinity bass link. Bigger driver so it can go a little lower in the bass frequencys.

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EW
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You do not add the power from amp and radio together. You really need someone to help you design a system. You are starting with some low end weak stuff. I would start over.

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the converted
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EW wrote:You do not add the power from amp and radio together. You really need someone to help you design a system. You are starting with some low end weak stuff. I would start over.
Yup already covered that. Was trying to be a little nicer about it though.

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5upra
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EW wrote:You do not add the power from amp and radio together. You really need someone to help you design a system. You are starting with some low end weak stuff. I would start over.
I'm a newb but I am learning. The reason I am using the weaksauce is because its cheap. Rather go faster than hear music better. I started off with getting away from the 4x6's idea for all 6.5". I might just start with basic system-50x4 HU and 6.5" name brands and listen how that sounds. Maybe I will be satisfyed.

I'll do some more R&D on amplification...also

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Looneybomber
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You mentioned how "amped 6x9's are perfect" and you also want to keep your trunk clean. How about doing a little cutting to your rear deck, attaching these to a 1/2" or 3/4" piece of plywood (cut to the same size as your rear deck) and use a pair of these for bass. They're light, they're fairly small and they'll get the job done so long as you're not wanting to entertain your neighbor.http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...4-837You could even use your existing amp with them.

I'm actually thinking about buying a pair of these to put in my explorer (factory locations in the rear) for a little extra bass without adding a sub box, because I don't have room for a box.http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...4-864

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the converted
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Just keep in mind that they are 8 Ohm rated (odd) and will drop power output of an amp by half!

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Looneybomber
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the converted wrote:Just keep in mind that they are 8 Ohm rated (odd) and will drop power output of an amp by half!
OOorrr, wire the pair in parallel, for a single 4ohm load. Bridge the amp to it and now the output is doubled since each channel is runnin at 2ohms...

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PoorManQ45
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Looneybomber wrote:You mentioned how "amped 6x9's are perfect" and you also want to keep your trunk clean. How about doing a little cutting to your rear deck, attaching these to a 1/2" or 3/4" piece of plywood (cut to the same size as your rear deck) and use a pair of these for bass. They're light, they're fairly small and they'll get the job done so long as you're not wanting to entertain your neighbor.http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...4-837You could even use your existing amp with them.

I'm actually thinking about buying a pair of these to put in my explorer (factory locations in the rear) for a little extra bass without adding a sub box, because I don't have room for a box.http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...4-864
You have learned wisely looney.

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5upra
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those would work good for strickly bass but I think the balance of the system would lack the crispness with just the door speakers suppling the high end.....I think I just got a lot of homework to do herethanks for all yours advice.

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Looneybomber
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5upra wrote:those would work good for strickly bass but I think the balance of the system would lack the crispness with just the door speakers suppling the high end...
That keeps your soundstage up front instead of floating all around above your head and behind you. In my explorer, I have my fade set all the way front. When/If I replace my rear speakers with those 6x9's (and add an amp) i'll use the fader as my adjustment for bass. The more I fade rear, the more bass I will get.
PoorManQ45 wrote:You have learned wisely looney.
Creativity is tough to learn.

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5upra
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I have available a set of 6in woofers that are free and I might give that a try with those not amp'ed for now though. How do I get them to do low freq only?

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Looneybomber
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If you don't use an amp (with a built in crossover) you'd have to add passive crossovers. You'd wire them up between the HU and the speaker. Not the most economical thing to do since you already have an amp and you'd need two of them at over 20 bucks each.http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...6-095

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5upra
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I don't have the amp...its all make believe for now.

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5upra
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also should I get 4ohm or 8ohm...keeping in mind that these might be crappy speakers. They come out of a roadmaster speaker kit. 30wrms for each speaker...but there is a total of 4 speakers in the encloser, they are a woofer and tweeter wired in parallel. So not sure if its actually 30wrms per side or actual speakers.

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PoorManQ45
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5upra wrote:also should I get 4ohm or 8ohm...keeping in mind that these might be crappy speakers. They come out of a roadmaster speaker kit. 30wrms for each speaker...but there is a total of 4 speakers in the encloser, they are a woofer and tweeter wired in parallel. So not sure if its actually 30wrms per side or actual speakers.
I've used roadmaster speakers before.

I say put the whole damn kit in there. Don't separate it

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5upra
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the tweeters are about useless on this thing though the woofers actually do alot of bandpass even into the high pass probably so they would sound bad at mid volume range.

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PoorManQ45
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5upra wrote:the tweeters are about useless on this thing though the woofers actually do alot of bandpass even into the high pass probably so they would sound bad at mid volume range.
I recommend you go to walmart and buy another set of those speakers. They cost $20 for the pair!

TunerTrifecta
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Why not amplify your front speakers for a better sound stage and power the rears off the deck?

If you want, I'm in o'fallon as well, I've got an OLDSCHOOL JL10w0-8 and a rockford 250a amp that I'll sell for $100, in a box, and I'll even try to scrounge up some 8awg wiring for you!

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5upra
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oh...I didn't know you posted, thanks for the offer but I am trying to stay away from the whole encloser idea in the 240.


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