tapping/ticking/knocking noise from my 1992 300ZX Turbo

[Kremlar]

Short history -

Bought a 1992 300ZX Twin Turbo manual transmission a few months back with ~97,000 miles. It's in great shape for its age, owner said it was always garaged and I believe it from how it looks. Owner said he used Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic.

I drove it for a few weeks occasionally and did not notice any issues.

I then had a local shop go through and do some general maintenance, including:
- oil & filter (used Mobil 1 10W30 High Mileage & Nissan 15208-55Y0A OEM filter)
- plugs (used PFR6B-11B)
- ran some Redline fuel system cleaner through
- differential fluid, transmission fluid, rear brakes, etc...

Not too long after (perhaps a week) I noticed a tapping/ticking noise coming from the engine. I can only hear the noise after the car has been running for 5 minutes or so, and it seems to go away by itself about 5-10 minutes later. It also only seems to occur if the car has not been driven for a couple of days.

I can't say with certainty that the noise didn't exist before I had the above listed work done, but can say I never noticed it in the 3 or so weeks I was driving it before the work.

Here is a video of the noise:
http://youtu.be/-EWnJc672xk

I drained the Mobil 1 10W30 and replaced with Royal Purple 10W40 (plus a new Nissan filter) and the noise still occured.

Because of the colder weather I haven't drive the car much but for the heck of it I drained the oil again today and replaced the Nissan filter with a cheap compatible STP filter from AutoZone. I then put the same Royal Purple 10W40 back in. I probably won't know for a week or 2 since I'm not driving the car much, but I can say that I took the car for a drive today and did not experience this noise.

I have receipts that indicate the belts (including timing belt) & water pump were done a couple years back at 92K miles.

- Is it possible for an oil filter to cause this kind of noise?
- Does this sound like lifter noise or something else?
- Timing belt tensioner?

Looking for some insight here.

Also, I'm in Massachusetts and would love to find a recommended local shop. I have a local guy for my general auto work, and I believe he does good work, but would prefer someone knowledgable in 300ZXs for major work. I just had a dealership open in my town, but they're new so not sure if they have any 20+ year Nissan mechanics there.

Thanks in advance!

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Sounds like a rod knock unfortunately. That's really loud for lifters, unless one is completely collapsed.

MA is kinda big, whereabouts are you? I can recommend a shop if you're near the South Shore area.

A quick fix for lifter tick is to run the engine with your usual oil + 0.5 QTS of ATF. The ATF detergents will clean the lifters. Don't drive super hard, but don't baby it either. Worked for me just before my dyno day earlier this year.

[Kremlar]

Ugh... if it's rod knock, does the timing of the noise make any sense at all? Only if not run for a couple days, no noise for first 5 minutes, goes away after 5-10 mins?

As for the ATF, I've read the same about Marvel Mystery Oil & Seafoam. Is it all the same, or do you recommend ATF over the others for some reason? Can I simply add .5 qts to a full engine, or do you recommend draining some first? Should I drain after so many miles, or leave it until the next oil change?

I am in Milford (metrowest area).

[ONEbadZ32]

I had the same problem. My oil pan was dented tho and pick up tube was a little bent. I replace oil pan and oil pump and it doesnt tick at all. I used royal purple 10w-30

[Chattzx]

Mine makes a semi similar noise when the engine is warming up and always goes away after a 15 min drive or so. Shell rosella t6 has worked best for me.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Ugh... if it's rod knock, does the timing of the noise make any sense at all? Only if not run for a couple days, no noise for first 5 minutes, goes away after 5-10 mins?

As for the ATF, I've read the same about Marvel Mystery Oil & Seafoam. Is it all the same, or do you recommend ATF over the others for some reason? Can I simply add .5 qts to a full engine, or do you recommend draining some first? Should I drain after so many miles, or leave it until the next oil change?

I am in Milford (metrowest area).

IIRC, I just added it to the engine with about 200 miles left before the oil change.

The sound is rhythmical, as a rod knock or lifter tick would be, but it's the loudest lifter I've ever heard.

Contact Luu Automotive in Randolph, (781) 961-8808 ‎ · http://www.luuautomotive.com Ask for Ben and tell him Tony sent you. He's a great mechanic who has a Z of his own, and very reasonable labor rates.

[NolimitZ32]

Mine sounded like that after I put the engine back in, the heads were never disassembled and the lifters just needed to get worked back in on mine, its gone away now after putting a couple thousand miles on the car. Yours sounds like some evil lifter tick its too fast to be rod knock at idle. If it hasn't gone away on its own you need to use one of the methods mentioned above and try cleaning out the lifters, hopefully its just aged gunk and will go away with a good cleaning.

[Kremlar]

Thanks for the referral - I will definitely give them a shot.

As for my current issue, I brought it down to my local place this AM and sure enough the ticking occurred. He also watched the video I had taken previously and now that he heard it in person he said it's definitely quieter than the video might lead you to believe. Must be my phone amplifying the noise.

He did not think it was rod knock or other major damage because he felt the noise would occur consistently, not come and go after the car had been running for a while. He also didn't feel it was loud enough.

He said it could be lifters, but wasn't sure based on the frequency of the noise. I will likely run something through it to see if the noise quiets, but not sure if I want to bother now since I won't be driving the car in the winter. Might do it in the spring where it will be easier to put some miles on the car and change the oil again after a couple hundred. I'm assuming it wouldn't be good to throw an additive in there and let it sit through the winter?

I am a bit OCD though, so waiting until the Spring to try and solve the issue will kill me.

Thanks again guys.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

If the phone is amplifying it, then it could definitely be lifters. Try the ATF trick first, even before going to Luu's, IMHO.

[Kremlar]

Thanks, I will do that. Anything bad about leaving it until the Spring? I plan on running the car every 2-3 weeks over the winter but not driving it.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Don't start it just to start it, that does more harm than good. I was of a similar school of thought, till I looked into it more. If you're not going to drive it till spring, I'd just leave it as is, then add the ATF in the spring. Drive it about 200 miles then change the oil and see how it does.

The 10W40 RP is good stuff, and what I use in my Z, so it's not a matter of the oil itself. Double check the level. Here's how I check it: Drive the car, shut it off parked on a flat level surface. Let it sit 5-10 minutes. Pull dipstick, clean reinsert then pull out slowly and check level. Checking it when cold or immediately after shut off can give you different levels.

[marty1mc]

I can't hear the audio since this desktop doesn't have speakers and my laptop is in for repair. But, listen to the frequency. A valve will tick at half the engine speed and a rod will be a fast knock. Also, listen for where its coming from top or bottom.

I had a bad lifter than sounded just like a rod knock and was extremely LOUD. It happened at idle and would clear as I rev'd the motor.

A rod knock will usually occur at a resonance point of around 2k rpm and at first start until the oil pressure comes up. Eventually, as it gets worse, it will get louder and occur during the entire rpm spectrum.

Last, don't start an engine that has been sitting for an extended time frame without priming the oil first. If you must pull the ignition relay and the fuel pump relay before cranking it. Then crank it for at least 10 seconds. Since my Z will sit for weeks at a time, I wired in a bypass for both relays. I can crank it until I see the oil pressure start to register on the gauge and then flip the switch and start the motor.

[Kremlar]

Definitely clears a bit as the engine revs. Seems like it's coming from the top but it's hard to localize.

Thanks guys, going to show some patience and tackle in the Spring.

[Kremlar]

Also, how did you get rid of the lifter tick? Seems like people use ATF, Marvell Mystery Oil, Sea Foam, Rislone... some swear by each, others say they would never touch each or all of them! Doesn't seem to be a clear consensus!

[marty1mc]

I don't add anything to my oil, nothing, ever. I pulled it apart and replaced the lifter. It's usually the exhaust lifters that get weak and collapse, so that is a pain.

[Kremlar]

Just wanted to follow-up and say I ended up draining a bit then adding 20% Marvel Mystery oil a couple months back. Drove it for a couple hundred miles, then drained and replaced with Royal Purple 10w40 - and no more tick!

Very happy, color me impressed...

[SLE-PR]

Not sure if anyone is still reading this post but I have developed a similar problem that sure sounds like lifter noise in my opinion. I put it on the car lift and the noise seemed to be all over the bottom end .....but after about 5 minutes, its gone, the power train (engine) has about 5000 miles on it since Z1 did the build and transmission upgrade.

I broke the engine in with 20w50, then found some Mobil 1 5w50 syn. The noise seemed to develop after the 5w50 went into it. I think I will try the fuel pump fuse out trick to pre-lube it next time to see if that does anything and then consider trying the 20w50 again to see if that makes a difference.

EDIT: I also installed a "sandwich" so I could install an engine oil temp gauge and only used one port for the sensor. Seb also had me install a window switch for the VTC's for 2500-6000 rpm range so I could build some boost before launch, so these were also done around the same time as the oil being flipped over to Mobil 1 5w50.

This is in my engine that was dyno tuned at 605 rwhp on MS 109 fuel by SZ. I also have a light vibration in the power train, even idling, and wondering if it could be coming from the torque converter area, as it has a 4000 stall converter and matching flex plate (SZ) in it and wondering if it is a balancing issue of some sort??????

I am always open to advice and ideas, so please feel free to let me know your thoughts on the issues.

J.