Tapping Oil Pan Help

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morpheus78
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Joined: Wed May 12, 2004 4:25 pm

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I was wondering if there was a way to tap the oil for the turbo without having to remove the oil pan from the car and drilling a hole in it? Maybe an adapter for the oil plug or something? Anyone know?



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DammitBobby
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IAP one of our sponsors. Check the threads on first page.

morpheus78
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Joined: Wed May 12, 2004 4:25 pm

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Yes, i read the install instructions, but you still need to tap the oilpan for the oil return. The benefit of theirs is that you dont have to actually remove the oilpan to install it, but you still need to drill it. This is a good option if there is nothing else. Anyone else have any input?


kapower06
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Joined: Sun Aug 15, 2004 4:36 am

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Well the only other way that any one has tried was to use a pump to pull the oil away from the turbo... bad results tho... I would like to know how the greddy kit uses a banjo bolt on the oil drain plug to returm the oil, IIRC the kit was for an RSX.

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Import_Ant
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It's not too hard to drop the oil pan, might as well do it right the first time. I have an IAP kit and I tried installing the bung as per their instructions then i removed the oil pan. it didnt work so well and there were ALOT of shavings in the pan. I'm not trying to be a wet blanket and I'm sure it can be done but based off of personal experience and WD's experiences I'd say to just drop the thing and do it right. there have been numerous threads about this and this is almost always the end result.

as far as a banjo bolt for the oil drain, since the return line is gravity feed I dont see how this could be feasable.

(for the record WD tried to make an oil return system to return the oil without having to tap the oil pan at all. search for 'White Devil' I think he called it but the end result was a blown turbo)

I will be the LAST person to discourage innovation and open thinking but this seems to be one place where compromise is NOT warmly accepted by the motor/turbo. if you'd like I can supply thread links to the threads I am refrencing in my response and pictures of my oil pan with the shavings or instructions on how to drop the oil pan (the easiest way I found without removing the engine).

I just don't want to see another fellow KA-T owner get bummed because their car is messed up because of an attempted short-cut gone wrong.

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GEO
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grease the HELL out of the drill bit

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onosqv
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Import_Ant wrote: (the easiest way I found without removing the engine).
yes, post easiest way please . I've read so many different ways my head hurts.

:-D.

I'll be replace motor mounts at the same time.

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Import_Ant
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BE CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING AND PUTTING THE OIL PAN BACK IN NOT TO BEND THE MESH STRAINER ON THE END OF THE PICKUP. (sorry for caps but it's VERY important.)

After draining the oil, I removed the front anti-sway bar. then I got an engine lift and ran a chain around the AC bracket on the driver's side of the car. I lifted the motor just a little bit to take tension off of the Driver's side motor mount and removed the 4 bolts on the block. then I lifted the motor up as far as I could (it will start hitting on the back of the block where the EGR stuff is, be careful not to break anything unless you have completely removed all the EGR bs.) at this point you should be able to get to all of the bolts holding the oil pan on. they are 10mm and some are a bit tough to reach but if you have a 1/4" drive you shouldn't have too much trouble. the fun parts are coming though. Nissan uses a silicon gasket to seal it to the block so you're going to have fun breaking the seal. I used a tiny flat-head screw-driver and found a small crevice to wedge it in and I actually ended up bending it a little in the process but that's why I buy Craftsman tools the next part is the difficult one. you'll have to navagate the oil pan around the pickup. there really isnt any way around it so just take your time. it can be done. there are baffles in the oil pan you'll just have to move it around following the baffles like a maze. I have a ton of pictures to take tonight so I'll try and get one of my spare oil pan while it's off and draw a line where I moved the pickup to get it off. I think it took me 20-25 mins. (my exhaust was off at this point btw)

These directions are for SOHC but should be able to be followed w/ the DOHC.

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DammitBobby
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I would also recommend doing it before your turbo kit comes in. That way you can test and make sure there are no oil pan or bung leaks. From personal experience I would go the extra mile and get a -10AN Earl fitting on the pan. You wont have to worry about leaks.


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