Tanabe Spring ?
Tanabe Spring ?
I just ordered some Tanabe pro-sustec springs with a 2" drop all 4 corners on an 96 240 ...my question is this will wheel clearance with the stock wheels be affected and is this a way too low of a drop for our cars????...ill be quiet now so i may listen to your answer:help
suspension questions
The only thing that you should be concerned about is the camber problem that you might have with the rear. I just put Tein HA on my 95, put it to the recommened height and the rear camber is at -2.9degrees (within spec is -1.9...max). It looks phat, but I have a feeling the inside of the tire will wear quickly. Luckily http://www.pdm-racing.com has camber adjustment bushings that you can put in upper control arm (where the stock eccentric camber bolt is) and it will correct for 0.75 degrees on each side. So with these bushings and the stock eccentric bolt, the camber should be within spec.
you shouldn't have a problem with the fronts.
part number kca347 $60
good luck
hope this helps
you shouldn't have a problem with the fronts.
part number kca347 $60
good luck
hope this helps
I used Tanabe 1.8" drop springs on my '95 and i think the drop is just right. it's about a finger worth of gap from the top of the tire to the fender.
check out my pics to see the final result:http://www.az240sx.org/gallery2/ToWai
check out my pics to see the final result:http://www.az240sx.org/gallery2/ToWai
any questions?
If you've got any specific questions, let me know.
It should be self explanatory if the instructions are good but if you got Qs...let me know
One more thing....although the drop might look good, you can't go by finger breadths and stuff to see if it's ok. The 240 suspension geometry is such that even with very slight changes in ride height, one gets a large change in camber/caster/toe settings.
I would suggest getting it aligned after you have it lowered to at least take some of the camber out of the rear...otherwise the800$ you just spent on the suspension, just wore out the inside edge of your 500$ tires in like 5000 miles. Seems like the 50$ spent to align the thing is worth it.
Anyway, while we're all showing pictures....here are some of MY baby, in her early stages.
let me know what ya'll thinkhttp://briefcase.yahoo.com/ou1848
yes...that IS the 300zx brake kitmark
It should be self explanatory if the instructions are good but if you got Qs...let me know
One more thing....although the drop might look good, you can't go by finger breadths and stuff to see if it's ok. The 240 suspension geometry is such that even with very slight changes in ride height, one gets a large change in camber/caster/toe settings.
I would suggest getting it aligned after you have it lowered to at least take some of the camber out of the rear...otherwise the800$ you just spent on the suspension, just wore out the inside edge of your 500$ tires in like 5000 miles. Seems like the 50$ spent to align the thing is worth it.
Anyway, while we're all showing pictures....here are some of MY baby, in her early stages.
let me know what ya'll thinkhttp://briefcase.yahoo.com/ou1848
yes...that IS the 300zx brake kitmark
just jack up the rear, remove the wheels, remove the bolt the connects the bottom of the strut then upbolt the two bolts from inside (underneath rear speaker panel). pull out the strut, compress the spring (impact wrench w/ spring compressor helps) then take the nut off the top of the strut that hold the pillow mount onto the top. swap out spring and reassemble. when installing, make sure strut is aligned properly, loosly tighten nuts inside car (to hold it up, having a friend helps!) and have someone stand on the suspension arm to get it down to where you can put the bolt through the bottom of the strut and tighten everything down. the rear is easy, took about an hour for me.
the front: jack up front of car, remove wheel (hood opened), remove brake line from struts, remove the two bolts that are mounted near bottom of strut, unscrew the three nuts at the top of the strut (in engine bay). now that strut is out, compress the spring and unscrew the nut at the top of the strut that holds on the top plate and strut mount. swap in your drop springs (compressed). reassemble everything and make sure that your spring is seated properly and not upside down. plus make sure your top spring plate's notch is pointed in the correct direction (or the strut will not mount properly)...i don't remeber what direction it needs to be but i do know that the chilton's manual is exactly the opposite of what it should be. then put your lock washer on, strut mount and tighten the top nut. uncompress the spring and put strut back in....
make sure the strut is in the properly (should be, as long as the top plate was aligned properly) hand tighten the top strut nuts and align/tighten the lower 2 bolts. double check the torque on the bolts/nuts. put the brake line back on.
note: the top nut that mounts the strut mounts/plate is a pain in the *** because it causes the shock to twist (won't let the nut turn) hit it up with some pentrating oil and use an impact wrench. i was able to do a couple struts w/o the impact wrench but it was a pain in the ***!
keep in mind, i typed this up off the top of my head so there may be some things i left out. but overall it's an easy swap, just take your time. only hard part is compressing fron coils enough to remove without killing youself and those top nuts that turn when you try to loosen them.
the front: jack up front of car, remove wheel (hood opened), remove brake line from struts, remove the two bolts that are mounted near bottom of strut, unscrew the three nuts at the top of the strut (in engine bay). now that strut is out, compress the spring and unscrew the nut at the top of the strut that holds on the top plate and strut mount. swap in your drop springs (compressed). reassemble everything and make sure that your spring is seated properly and not upside down. plus make sure your top spring plate's notch is pointed in the correct direction (or the strut will not mount properly)...i don't remeber what direction it needs to be but i do know that the chilton's manual is exactly the opposite of what it should be. then put your lock washer on, strut mount and tighten the top nut. uncompress the spring and put strut back in....
make sure the strut is in the properly (should be, as long as the top plate was aligned properly) hand tighten the top strut nuts and align/tighten the lower 2 bolts. double check the torque on the bolts/nuts. put the brake line back on.
note: the top nut that mounts the strut mounts/plate is a pain in the *** because it causes the shock to twist (won't let the nut turn) hit it up with some pentrating oil and use an impact wrench. i was able to do a couple struts w/o the impact wrench but it was a pain in the ***!
keep in mind, i typed this up off the top of my head so there may be some things i left out. but overall it's an easy swap, just take your time. only hard part is compressing fron coils enough to remove without killing youself and those top nuts that turn when you try to loosen them.
Re: any questions?
Quote »Anyway, while we're all showing pictures....here are some of MY baby, in her early stages.
let me know what ya'll thinkhttp://briefcase.yahoo.com/ou1848
yes...that IS the 300zx brake kitmark [/quote]
how much did you pay for the parts to convert your 4-lug to 5?
let me know what ya'll thinkhttp://briefcase.yahoo.com/ou1848
yes...that IS the 300zx brake kitmark [/quote]
how much did you pay for the parts to convert your 4-lug to 5?