talk my rb20

[justin s]

hey im gonna use this to ask question and general rb20 questions and talk.. with a little bit of build thread thrown in.
i got a 97 240 im about 2 rb swap..
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progress sep-8
sending the rb head 2 the machine shop and waiting on a new clutch n flywheel in the mail and then pulling the ka

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lookin for a good shop 2 get the rb tuned around abilene tx

cheap / preowned inercooler
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hey anyone know where i can find the following rb20 det parts

cheap / pre owned exahust manifold
real cheap/ pre owned cam gears


transmission bolts 2 the block

im always lookin for wheels n tires.

[themadscientist]

welcome. If you have RB questions, you would be better to post in the RB forum.

Please use "to." That "2" thing is really outdated and annoying.

Good luck with your swap. Be sure to burp the cooling system and hog out the top exhaust manifold bolt hole on #6.

[justin s]

welcome. If you have RB questions, you would be better to post in the RB forum.

Please use "to." That "2" thing is really outdated and annoying.

Good luck with your swap. Be sure to burp the cooling system and hog out the top exhaust manifold bolt hole on #6.

do what with the exhaust manifold bolt???

on cylinder 1 and 2 bolth bolts broke, and on #6 the bottom bolt broke.. i got all of em out exsept the bottom # 6

im gonna have the machine shop take car of it and mill the head and a polish job

[themadscientist]

Every RB20 I have had and most I have seen that were run hard bust the #6 exhaust bolt. When the manifold get really hot it begins to expand, it gets longer. I am not sure if the break is caused by horizontal movement or the manifold flexing away from the head. If it's sideways movement it may be correctable by drilling the bolt hole in the manifold bigger so it has room to shift without putting a side load on the bolt. Bell suggests as you move away from the center of the manifold increase the hole sizes more. I have only seen #6 being a consistent problem. I think the design, where it puts the turbo and that hard turn on the #6 port makes it get hotter there than the rest of the log. Be sure to grab some new tension washers. I've never been able to successfully reuse them; they shatter.

[justin s]

well, i oedered hardend exhaust studs.. you think that will be enuf or should i go ahead and get those three drilled and tapped bigger?
also you think an aftermarket manifold will solve the problem? the stock on is made of cast right? big thick heavy mother f***

[themadscientist]

I prefer cast manifolds because they are rugged. I am on a tight budget and while stainless flows better, they have problems sometimes with cracking and they are expensive. If you have 300 or less as a power goal the factory manifold will geterdone. You can port the inlets and the outlet for a little bit better flow.
Stock studs are fine. My theory is the manifold is expanding and imparting side loads on them. I am saying open up the holes on the manifold so it can shift around without coming in contact with the sides of the studs.

[justin s]

alright yeah good deal, i got heat treaped and stronger studs.. so that and yeah giving it a little little room 2 move will work just fine.. thanks for the advice

[Gold Digger]

Moving this to RB forum as it belongs there.

[justin s]

thank you

[justin s]

got it back today.. waiting on apr head studds and gaskets in the mail.

[Yellow4g63]

Already I can see this not going to work out. The word cheap is used just way too much. Just because it's a RB20 and not a RB25/26/30 won't mean it's cheap to have. If u really want to enjoy your motor save some money and buy the right parts you need. Then we won't have to hear some lame story about how RB20's suck because you tried to run 18psi on stock injectors and turbo.

[justin s]

uhh no... where is the word cheap used?

i know this isent a cheap build and i dont plan on it being on..
i dont plan on running nothing over stock..

my last post just said i post my head back and im waiting on head studds and gaskets..
i dont get it man, what casued you to chime in and start bashing me?

[justin s]

ok ill insert foot 2 mouth.. i see how i was talkin cheap in my first post...

[Yellow4g63]

cheap / preowned inercooler
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hey anyone know where i can find the following rb20 det parts

cheap / pre owned exahust manifold
real cheap/ pre owned cam gears

Key words that triggered my comment. once is fine but more than 2 times is a signal. I'm not bashing you but giving you a heads up.

[justin s]

i see what your saying... rest ashured im not spending my money on junk, ebay parts , or trash...
i was using cheap in a since of ..." hey if you got the s*** layin around your shop , sale it 2 me for a good price"
sorry i kinda snapped on my first post but still tryed 2 keep it civil.. you cought me right after work

cheers.

[justin s]

ill be sending the wire harness off next week

[Yellow4g63]

If u run the Mckinney mounts make sure to bash the tunnel where the starter hump on the trans is because it will rub and vibrate.

[justin s]

If u run the Mckinney mounts make sure to bash the tunnel where the starter hump on the trans is because it will rub and vibrate.

hmmmm exsplane more, thanks for the advice, anything else tricky like that i should know about?

[Yellow4g63]

If u run the Mckinney mounts make sure to bash the tunnel where the starter hump on the trans is because it will rub and vibrate.

hmmmm exsplane more, thanks for the advice, anything else tricky like that i should know about?

Not sure why it happens with the Mckinney mounts might be that it moves the motor back a little more. I had this happen in my S13 then on my S14 I didn't take the same chance and when I looked at it after the install it was pretty close. It's just a small spot like what the RB25 guys do.