T32, MY2014, US - VERY rough idle, engine sometimes stalls, sometimes it is hard to get going

[V6er]

Yello!
soooo... as a background - T32 has P0300 and intermittent P0303. been outtatown for a month or so. came back. VERY rough idle, hard to get going, sometimes even stalls.

have two DTCs:
- P0011 - INT/V TIM CONT-B1 (″A″ Camshaft position - timing over-ad-vanced or system performance bank 1)
- P052A - CAMSHAFT POSITION TIMING B1 (Cold start “A” camshaft position timing over-advanced bank 1)

at idle "INT/V TIM(B1) degreesCA" shows 48.5. FSM says it should be around 10, +/-2...

if I slightly apply gas pedal - it all starts sounding really good and smooth.
Oil pressure seems a little bit low like 1600mv (I think few months ago it was more like 1900).

found old post from VStar650CL - post6853050.html?hilit=P0011#p6853050

from what I googled - suggestions like "just change all three solenoids - intake, exhaust and lock" from guy like Eric the car Guy - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1yrU-W6h0Y

looked at prices:
https://parts.nissanusa.com/parts/nissa ... 237963ta4a - 110usd
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 0&pt=12910 - NTK 40usd
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NGKVV0157 - at the same time the same NTK VV0157 is 90ish bucks at NAPA...

what are opinions, experiences and suggestions?

[VStar650CL]

I've never seen the slightest issues with aftermarket solenoids as long as you stick to parts that list equivalence to the original. I also don't see any point in replacing your exhaust solenoid when your issue is with the intake. Replace the intake (frontmost) and intermediate lock (rearmost) and leave the EVT (middle) alone.

[V6er]

I've never seen the slightest issues with aftermarket solenoids as long as you stick to parts that list equivalence to the original. I also don't see any point in replacing your exhaust solenoid when your issue is with the intake. Replace the intake (frontmost) and intermediate lock (rearmost) and leave the EVT (middle) alone.

thanks (again and again and again!) )

in your older post I quoted - you said that exhaust is in front, intake is in the middle and lock is the rear...
https://prnt.sc/H6hSmrMbzMBK (screenshot from FSM - though there might be errors, of course

[VStar650CL]

Yep, that was a brain fart, sorry. They flipped it around on the PR's, but the IVT/EVT's are always on the same side of the timing cover as the respective intake manifold / exhaust manifold. I own two QR's for cryin' out loud.


Anyway, don't fix what ain't broke unless you want to. The EVT's spend most of their time doing nothing, so it's pretty rare for them to fail. The IVT's are a different story, they're pretty much always working, and the ILS works every time you start the car.

[V6er]

ordered NTK one (will try to replace intake one first), tomorrow should be delivered. will check access today... I think I have extensions and long pliers, but just to be sure and ready...
will see how it goes and then will order second one for locking solenoid.

p.s. interestingly. in 2019 at 64kmiles car had P0014 and P300. exhaust solenoid was replaced.

[VStar650CL]

They can be got from underneath but it isn't easy. You'll need a long extension for your ratchet too.

[V6er]

recieved solenoid, went for scouting underneath... it is absolutely NOT easy looks like may be half shaft removal might be useful...

[VStar650CL]

recieved solenoid, went for scouting underneath... it is absolutely NOT easy looks like may be half shaft removal might be useful...

No, you're much better off supporting the engine on a floor jack and removing the nose mount if you don't have the tools or conditions to do it from underneath. That's a much smaller PITA than removing the drive axle.

[V6er]

No, you're much better off supporting the engine on a floor jack and removing the nose mount if you don't have the tools or conditions to do it from underneath. That's a much smaller PITA than removing the drive axle.

oh, yes! after looking and comparing videos on youtube - they all somehow have enough room going from underneath, but may be that is because they are doing that to altima-s. in my case - I don't see possibility going from underneath. or may be I am just too effing fat

after looking at Eric the Car guy video - I will be going from above.

[V6er]

hell.
I don't see yet - how will(will I?) I be able to undo that damn solenoid from above.
https://prnt.sc/Dja7BexfXUf6
https://prnt.sc/JnSZVyQ-hu_c

p.s. also wanted to note that nissan putting that torque arm/rod bolt under the cowl and using "so typical head" of number 18.... also seems like I proper *****. had to go to store to buy said wrench
anyway... will keep on wrenching

[V6er]

https://prnt.sc/fop_vSHAkMWA
this is how much space is in god damn fffffffflorida altima.........
I don't have much love for nissan right now....

[V6er]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7MWmVq4qjo - looking in this video - it seems that key is to lift engine a bit up (relative to cars body) - to a point where you CAN actually put your fingers from above to reach solenoids......
though interestingly enough - when I jack up under cars oil pan - it seems that it lifts the whole car front...

will check it again in the morning.

[VStar650CL]

Take the dogbone loose along with the nose mount to jack the engine way up, then push it toward the driver's side with a prybar. The trans mount will usually give enough to make space. Once the mounts are loose, you can also drop the engine and get to the IVT's a lot easier from below.

[V6er]

my car is on the ground on wheels right now. next time will try to do proctologist thing from below (just this morning bought longer extensions)

on a more serious note - jacked up the engine and now I am getting somewhere...
https://prnt.sc/uE8ftv9Q1wLL

this dude - https://prnt.sc/JAKU4Gj4BkCs - is a hero of the day
now I wonder - is there like ratcheting crowfoot (or whatever it is called). update - yes, there are for example - https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/1 ... 07229.aspx

[V6er]

I wonder - what would be better to be used in wiring plug - deoxit d5 or d100?
googles ai says this:
DeoxIT D5 is a 5% concentrated spray that includes petroleum solvents to flush out heavy dirt and corrosion, making it ideal for deep-cleaning accessible, dirty components. DeoxIT D100 is a 100% pure concentrate with no solvents, perfect for delicate plastics or precise, spot-lubricating applications.

since everything there lives in oil, dirt and heat - probably that d5 is better to clean whatever there is...

[VStar650CL]

The IVT connectors are silicone-gasketed, so unless they get damaged or the IVT blows a seal and floods the connector with oil, they're immune to the environment. The receptacles are also spring-loaded, so leaving a film is irrelevant. You can clean them with pretty much anything, even Brakleen.

[V6er]

... that little shhhhhining star 08120-61628.....................

[V6er]

ok. success.
that intake camshaft shows ~17.5degrees on idle (but it wasn't warmed up, just first start up).
invalueable experience. bunch of tools I want to add to my collection.
next time I will want to try that "going from underneath" approach. ))


unfortunately - also discovered that RH engine mount intermediate bracket - has that long bolts (in front) thread messed up. probably those guys who got 500+ bucks for exhaust solenoid 7yrs ago. unpleasent. now I need/want to find a way to fix that thread...

p.s. @VStar650CL - as always - your support is just magnificent!

[VStar650CL]

If that's the bolt I'm thinking of, 'bout the only way to fix it is to pull the mount and heli-coil it. With aluminum alloy, you probably won't get away with just chasing the threads. They'll just pull out and strip again.

[V6er]

If that's the bolt I'm thinking of, 'bout the only way to fix it is to pull the mount and heli-coil it. With aluminum alloy, you probably won't get away with just chasing the threads. They'll just pull out and strip again.

https://prnt.sc/w0XeTbG0cmhv - this one.
I am thinking - may be use slightly thinner threaded rod and put flanged nuts on top and bottom (if the hole is through)

also - observation. when I removed old solenoid - it's working "part" was rotating separately from "mounting part". https://prnt.sc/nLdB3IJkeuY7 - rough drawing
is that normal thing?

[VStar650CL]

The coils on those are self-contained so they don't necessarily die if the potting fails, but it sounds like yours did.

You might still have good threads at the bottom of that hole, but I'd shine a flashlight first and see if it's blind or through. If it's blind, measure veeeery carefully before cranking anything in there. You could easily crack the head by bottoming.

[V6er]

You might still have good threads at the bottom of that hole, but I'd shine a flashlight first and see if it's blind or through. If it's blind, measure veeeery carefully before cranking anything in there. You could easily crack the head by bottoming.

yep. I will do that first.