t3 turbo oil inlet / wastegate question.

[wild_maxx]

i ordered all the parts from the t3 turbo oil lines stick that was posted above and have recieved all the parts but i was wondering what fitting do i need to screw into the turbo itself then screw into the oil line? what is it called?

the turbo i have has an internal wastegate that is currently set to open up at 10 psi. i was told by someone that if i loosen the nut on the actuator shaft and twist the shaft until its longer that will lower the amount of boost before it opens up. is this true. what i did was, took out the small "C" clip that is at the flat end of the shaft and took the shaft off the flapper arm and twisted it until it was about 1/2" longer. is this the proper precedure to lowering the boost amount? if not please let me know how before i really mess something.

thanx.

[WDRacing]

BEcareful when adjusting that rod, usually it's used only to increase the boost. Make sure the flapper that covers the wastegate whole on the bacj side of the turbo is still closed with the rod attached. You may have opened it to far, which will cause horrible lag.

WD

[wild_maxx]

so if its set at a max of 10 psi right now can i run lower than 10 psi? should i be able the manually pull down on the actuator shaft and have it move. it is kinda hard to pull down so i dont know if it shoudl be that hard. should i be able to open the flapper with my hand. i have tried moving it up and down but it wont move and the shaft is not connected to it.

[Jookmasta]

um for the oil line question, if ur oil feed line is -3AN and have female swivel fittings at the end of them, then usually u will need an adapter so that the line can connect to the oil inlet on the turbo. for me i know i had to get an adapter which had a -3AN flare male on one side and 1/8 NPT male on the other side.

for the internal wastegate question, i personally would like to know more about this as my turbo is also internally wastegated. me and a local buddy messed with the rod and stuff a couple days ago but we were just looking at the wastegate to see where the flapper sits. do all internal wastegates have rods which can screw in or screw out? i know i know sounds noobish but my turbo is a factory turbo so who knows. im gonna pull it up tomorrow and try it out. If it does work, would that technically be the only way to lower the boost on an internal wastegate besides using an EBC?

Last but not least, the actuator on mine is hard to pull down also so i think its suppose to be like that wild maxx. ive felt some other factory turbo and they did require some pressure to move the actuator.

[wild_maxx]

so any advice on the internal wastegate acutator? 2 of us need some help and i am sure some of you are knowlagable in this subject.

[Jookmasta]

well i thought about it for a bit and my turbo doesnt have an adjustable internal wastegate. if it did, there would be threading on the rod near the swing valve which would allow adjustment for the rod length. this can be seen here:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=WGT

so that settles that. now for pulling down the actuator, it is suppose to be stiff if the rod is still attached to the swing valve. i unhooked the rod from the swing valve and it move as easy as a light switch. its stiff due to the wastegate spring.

[Jookmasta]

oh ya, what turbo are u using and do u know what the wastegate is set at?

[Jookmasta]

bump for some more clarification

[wild_maxx]

well i was told by the guy i bought the turbo from that if you take off the small "C" clip on the flat end of the actuator shaft and twist the shaft and make it longer that will lower the boost. i dont know for sure if this works but the only way to find out is to try it.

[newbe40]

You are correct about adjusting the waste gate rod if you make it longer it will lower boost but as someone stated before you don't want the puck to open or be open to early or you will have boost lag you should try this adjustment first and see if the boost is low enough, if not your next option would be to port the waste gate hole, but not past the size of the puck you still need it to seal the hole. This will divert more exhaust and should lower your boost. If you don't have an adjustable rod it is very easy to make it adjustable just cut the rod and thread it on both sides and get a coupler, union what ever you want to call it at the hardware store the rod size is very standard, I think 1/4 ?

[Jookmasta]

so the rods would come pre-threaded or we would have to thread it ourselves? i know how the adjustable assembly works and what it looks like, but would the end of the rod thats inside the wastegate actuator also need to be threaded or are they all threaded?

[newbe40]

If you have one that is not adjustable (no threads) just cut the rod and use a die to put some threads on both sides that you cut you would need a die that is the size for the rod and the length of the threads don't need to very long a small number of turns will make a big adjustment.Do not put threads on the entire length of the rod.

[Jookmasta]

couldnt i also just use an MBC to control the boost as supposed to cutting the rod and going that route?