T3/t4

Post by **matt0941** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

I am looking more into the T3/T4 Hybrid turbo for the KA24DE. Does anyone know if it will be mounted so that the oil return lines to the engine are above it and drained with gravity or below it? Also, are any turbo bearings still in production not cooled with a water jacket?

Post by **Exar-Kun** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

there are oil cooled bearings, chris mays first turbo was only oil cooled. and on the oil lines, it dependons on how the turbo manifold would mount the turbo I assume(but then..Im an ***...hehe).-chet

Post by **matt0941** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

Yes I know but in order to keep turbo bearing oil from "coking" up water jackets were put over the oil.

Post by **C-Kwik** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

matt0941 wrote:I am looking more into the T3/T4 Hybrid turbo for the KA24DE. Does anyone know if it will be mounted so that the oil return lines to the engine are above it and drained with gravity or below it? Also, are any turbo bearings still in production not cooled with a water jacket?

All turbos use gravity drain oil bearings. Except maybe the Aerocharger since it is self lubricated.

Post by **matt0941** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

Yes I know they are all initially drained through gravity but some are below the engine so in order to recirculate it they drain into a seprate cavity which is then sucked up into the engine to recirculate.

Post by **C-Kwik** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

Ahh, I misunderstood your post. But to answer your question then, I will ask you a question. Do you plan to put the turbo in a location that is lower than the KA's oil pan? Take a look at the engine compartment before you answer this.

Post by **WDRacing** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

Matt, as long as the return doesn't have any spots for oil to pool up and create back pressure you shouldn't have any problems. Meaning, if the return line goes from the turbine right to your pan, it shouldn't have any low spots where the line has to bend back up to connect to the pan. Hope that makes sense. Also, as long as you use a turbo timer, you shouldn't have to worry about oil coking/coagulating inside the turbo.

I would also use a water cooled turbine. I don't think oil cooled turbines last as long or are as efficient as the water cooled versions.

WD

Post by **matt0941** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

Yes I understand thanks WD. But By water cooled do you mean water AND oil cool as opposed to JUST oil cooled? Because I have not heard of any turbines just cooled by water alone.

Post by **S14Zilvia** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

I'm sure he's referring to water as well as oil. Having water flowing through the bearing section probably wouldn't cut it

Post by **WDRacing** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

Yep, water/oil...

Post by **matt0941** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

Hehe yea ok makes sense. I was gonna be shocked if water + bearing made the cut, would probably boil.

Post by **d240t2** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

The purpose of the oil isn't to cool...it is to lubricate. They aren't really oil cooled...since the only reason to cool the center section is to keep the oil from coking. Oil lubricated...water cooled. People still use non-water cooled center sections...as they are cheaper.

Using synthetic oil, water cooled center sections, cooling the turbo after use, and changing oil frequently is the best combined way to extend turbo life.

Dennis

Post by **Movingviolation240** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

The price of an oil cooled and water cooled center section is the same, some shops just charge more for them. (this is according to my price list's)

A water cooled turbo will run about 150-200 degree's cooler than an air cooled one, that's quite a bit IMHO and more than worth the hastle of running water lines.

PaulOrlando, FL

Post by **Exar-Kun** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

:withstup-chet

Post by **d240t2** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

Yeah...according to turbonetics price list, they are the same...except the water cooled Big shaft housing. But they sell new parts...and many many people buy used/rebuilt turbos...where dry bearing housings are still cheaper.

Dennis

Post by **trpower7** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

I don't believe we've really gone over the processes of running water lines to a turbo KA on this board, oil lines we have beaten to death, but I for one would like to know exactly how to run the lines for water cooling. I assume you would have to get a fitting for the upper rad and lower rad hose and hook them up to the appropriate inlet/outlet fittings on your respective turbo, WD can probably straighten this out for us though........

Post by **WDRacing** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

There are quite a few different ways to run water lines to your turbo. You simply have to tee off any of the existing lines that wrap around your head.

When I had to fab up new lines on my Skyline, I simply redirected the water line coming from the back side of the intake, should be very similer on the KA24, and routed it to the turbine. Then had the return line from the turbo tap back into the same line.

If that doesn't make sense let me know, I'll draw up a schematic.

WD

Post by **king_johnthegreat** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

Now all bearing housing are the same price, through Turbonetics. Dry, wet, standard, big shaft, 16mm, 3/8", doesn't matter. $65.00 for one and all. Not too bad!John

Post by **d240t2** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

Not by the price list I am looking at (which is the current one on their website).

20327 BRG. HOUSING, DRY $ 84.38 20360 BRG. HOUSING, DRY -BIG SHAFT $ 84.38 20234-2 BRG. HOUSING, WATER COOLED 16MM $ 84.38 20371-10 BRG. HOUSING, WATER COOLED 16MM BIG SHAFT $ 125.00 20234-1 BRG. HOUSING, WATER COOLED 18MM $ 84.38 20234 BRG. HOUSING, WATER COOLED 3/8" PIPE $ 84.38 20371 BRG. HOUSING, WATER COOLED 3/8" PIPE BIG SHAFT $ 125.00

Dennis

Post by **matt0941** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

is the standard T3/T4 a T04e or T04b - whats the difference?

Post by **C-Kwik** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

There is no standard. A T04E uses a slightly larger compressor section. They tend to flow better and have better peak efficiencies. But you will still need to map out the compressor to the boost and flowrate to determine which one is best for you. And within the family of T04E and T04B, there are various sizes as well.

Post by **matt0941** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

Thanks, but I have no idea how to select what size and trim is best for my engine (DE). I have read Corky's explenations on picking the best compressors and such, but don't have peak torque graphs and compressor efficiency maps at my use.

Post by **king_johnthegreat** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

Turbonetics' website (The "Updated" one) is two years old. I have the 2003 price list, not to mention the fact that I am a Turbonetics dealer. All center bearing sections for T3 and T4 applications are $65.00, regardless. For compressor maps, pick up one of their catalogs in the mail, or visit http://www.turboneticsinc.com to see a selection of comp. maps.John

Post by **Turbo_Nismo_EC** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

I also have a oil/water colled t3/t4. However the turbo dealer I bought it from said I did not have to hook up the water section. I am curious as to how to hook it up though. To prolong the life of my turbo is definately worth looking into.

Post by **matt0941** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

I would recommend it, water cooling your turbo prolongs its life, cools it more, and prolongs the time required for oil changes.

Post by **king_johnthegreat** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 4:29 pm

I would say that you could simply use the water lines meant for the heater core to supply water to the turbo, and route it back into the engine. There may even be plumbing fittings available to do the job. I mostly see 3/8" pipe threads to 5/8" hose fittings for the water inlet and discharge from the turbo. Using this as an example, you could get several feet of 5/8" heater core hose from the autoparts retailer near you, and brass fittings from home depot, if the autoparts store doesn't stock them. Use two "T" fittings, and put it inline with the hoses going into and out of the heater core. Connect the two sections of hose to and from the turbo to the hose fittings on the bearing section, and clamp them onto the T fittings in the water lines. For added cooling, put a water/glycol cooler in the line feeding into the turbo, with a small eight inch electric fan. This should make all the difference in the world; and even with the cooler, I bet you could do it all for under $100.John

T3/t4

T3/t4

Re: T3/t4

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