T3/T4 + SR Head build i need help i have some ?

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Slideways^Jordan
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:24 pm
Car: 1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back

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I have some question about building my S13 SR head with a stock bottom end any advice would be greatly appricated. Thanks

When im rebuilding the whole head what all do i need list the parts?

I was wanting to know if Brian crower 272 in/272 ex cams are solid or lash type cams?

can i use the Tomei Solid Pivots or lifters and what does this part do exactly?

can some give me the link the fsm for the S13 SR

can I use the stock valves or do i need to buy new ones?

i will post my setup in little bit as soon as i get my pc running right again.

This is my setup

Enthalpy ECU TuneACT xtreme ClutchGarret dual ball bearing T3/T4 Turbo 50 trim .63 A/R Peak boost Top mount manifoldPeakboost wastegate 38mm DumptubeBrian crower 272 intake and exhuast camsBrian Crower valve springs and titanium retainerGreddy knockoff manifold from TopspeedTail 38mm Wastgatedeasch works 810cc injectors.Z32 MAF

what else do i need for the head.

Thanks guys

Modified by Slideways^Jordan at 7:44 AM 8/24/2007
Modified by Slideways^Jordan at 9:04 PM 9/1/2007


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Slideways^Jordan
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i would love to hear some info soon guys.

Thanks

Geno750
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Joined: Thu Oct 12, 2006 7:14 am

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You can run sla's on a hla cam, they run just fine. I'm running MBV sla's with bc264 cams and couldn't be happier. To run the tomei sla's just search on the site, a user on here had a massive thread showing his install. Just be prepared to have the car down for a while if you go the sla route since none of the kits currently available let you set your clearances with everything supplied in the kit.

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Slideways^Jordan
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Geno750 wrote:You can run sla's on a hla cam, they run just fine. I'm running MBV sla's with bc264 cams and couldn't be happier. To run the tomei sla's just search on the site, a user on here had a massive thread showing his install. Just be prepared to have the car down for a while if you go the sla route since none of the kits currently available let you set your clearances with everything supplied in the kit.
Thanks for the info

can you tell me what the sla and hla stand for, and could you post a link to were i can buy the the MBV sla you have. My car will be down for a long time its been down since May

Thanks
Modified by Slideways^Jordan at 5:00 AM 8/26/2007

Geno750
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Joined: Thu Oct 12, 2006 7:14 am

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Slideways^Jordan wrote:
Thanks for the info

can you tell me what the sla and hla stand for, and could you post a link to were i can buy the the MBV sla you have. My car will be down for a long time its been down since May

Thanks

Modified by Slideways^Jordan at 5:00 AM 8/26/2007
sla = solid lash adjuster hla = hydraulic lash adjuster

Unfortunately Matt is no longer selling his sla kits

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Slideways^Jordan
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Thanks

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Slideways^Jordan
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Anyone want to give me some more info?

Thanks

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usncorpsman
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Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 5:10 am
Car: 02 S15 Silvia
13 Ford Raptor

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they dont make and s13 sr20det fsm to my knowledge only japan got those...but you can get s14 fsms...theyre in english and are basically identical to my knowledge other than the vvt....try http://www.skylineking.com ...they have one

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chicos240
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Car: 1995 240 SX

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IIRCyou are going to need1) take everything apart in ORDER and keep everything in baggies and document it all.2) valve guides3) You can probably re use your valves, have the machine shop check them out, they will just 3 angle them and re seat them4)valve stem seals seals5)check to see if those BC cams will work with stock springs and retainers, you can save some cash this way.have the head decked and get a new gasket.6) get some arp head studs while you are at it7) depending if you stick with the HLAS or the SLAs you will need to reshim everything.heres an awesome write up.http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=238409

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Slideways^Jordan
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Thanks for the info guys.

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karmakaze
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Car: 98 240sx SE
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chicos240 wrote:IIRCyou are going to need1) take everything apart in ORDER and keep everything in baggies and document it all.2) valve guides3) You can probably re use your valves, have the machine shop check them out, they will just 3 angle them and re seat them4)valve stem seals seals5)check to see if those BC cams will work with stock springs and retainers, you can save some cash this way.have the head decked and get a new gasket.6) get some arp head studs while you are at it7) depending if you stick with the HLAS or the SLAs you will need to reshim everything.heres an awesome write up.http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=238409
They do not work with stock springs and retainers. and the step 3 bc cams will work with SLAs.

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Hijacker
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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An upgraded cam over a 256/256 setup really should consider upgrading springs/retainers.

If you do end up needing new valves, you can order intake valves fairly easily from a nissan dealer. Our parts thread sticky has the parts number in it. SpeedRacer posted a large post with numbers for just about every part in the motor.

Exhaust valves are a bit different. They're larger 7mm stemmed valves that are sodium filled (I think it's sodium at least). The USDM SRs have 6mm stemed exhaust valves, so I'm not sure if you can order RWD SR exhaust valves from a dealer. JGY Customs has a decent price on exhaust valves (although they had no valves in when I called them to order intake valves a few weeks ago), but plan to pay anywhere between $20-$30 per valve. Enjuku would be my next choice depending on availability.

Valve guides are best bought from Jim Wolf Technology. $50 for a set of bronze guides. You'll need 2 sets (6mm intake and 7mm exhaust), so about $100. Which is about what I can find a set of stock guides for on eBay.

courtesy nissan has an entire engine gasket set for about $80, which includes your headgasket, valve stem seals, and other hard to get gaskets. Their gasket set, however, is not a complete one. It only has gaskets for the head. The small o-rings on the block, and main front and rear seals, will have to be bought seperately.

When I dissassemble a head, I typically put down some paper towels and as I pull parts off the head, I lay them in front to rear order on the towel. And if I'm taking a head to a shop, I'll loosely reattach the cam retainers in order. keeping rocker arms and HLAs in the proper order isn't necessary, but if you're doing a quick teardown (to say replace cams), it's useful to keep them in order, but don't lose sleep if you get them mixed up. I stress keeping cam towers in order as they have bearings in them for the cam journals.

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Slideways^Jordan
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Car: 1989 240sx Coupe-1991 240sx Hatch back

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tenkawa_akito wrote:An upgraded cam over a 256/256 setup really should consider upgrading springs/retainers.

If you do end up needing new valves, you can order intake valves fairly easily from a nissan dealer. Our parts thread sticky has the parts number in it. SpeedRacer posted a large post with numbers for just about every part in the motor.

Exhaust valves are a bit different. They're larger 7mm stemmed valves that are sodium filled (I think it's sodium at least). The USDM SRs have 6mm stemed exhaust valves, so I'm not sure if you can order RWD SR exhaust valves from a dealer. JGY Customs has a decent price on exhaust valves (although they had no valves in when I called them to order intake valves a few weeks ago), but plan to pay anywhere between $20-$30 per valve. Enjuku would be my next choice depending on availability.

Valve guides are best bought from Jim Wolf Technology. $50 for a set of bronze guides. You'll need 2 sets (6mm intake and 7mm exhaust), so about $100. Which is about what I can find a set of stock guides for on eBay.

courtesy nissan has an entire engine gasket set for about $80, which includes your headgasket, valve stem seals, and other hard to get gaskets. Their gasket set, however, is not a complete one. It only has gaskets for the head. The small o-rings on the block, and main front and rear seals, will have to be bought seperately.

When I dissassemble a head, I typically put down some paper towels and as I pull parts off the head, I lay them in front to rear order on the towel. And if I'm taking a head to a shop, I'll loosely reattach the cam retainers in order. keeping rocker arms and HLAs in the proper order isn't necessary, but if you're doing a quick teardown (to say replace cams), it's useful to keep them in order, but don't lose sleep if you get them mixed up. I stress keeping cam towers in order as they have bearings in them for the cam journals.
Very nice info Thanks for the great details I appreciate it very much.

Just to let yall know i do already have the 272 BC Cams and BC spring and retainer set but Thanks for looking out for me.

I need to buy the SLA, valve stem seals and Valve guides and maybe the gaskit kit.

I make like 1500 dollars a week so money really isnt an issue, **** thats why im doing this build.

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Slideways^Jordan
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ok Guys i Was wanting to know what the snap-on tools name is called that you use to remove and install the Valve springs Retainer and keepers

Thanks

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Slideways^Jordan
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ok Guys quick question i Was wanting to know what the tools name is called that you use to remove and install the Valve springs Retainer and keepers

Thanks

is it a valve spring compressor

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Hijacker
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
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So...I was inspecting my head last night after it was back from the shop and I noticed something I had never noticed before. The cam towers are all labelled I 1-5 and E 1-5 with the proper direction to install them in. Nissan did their best to make it idiot proof short of keying each cam tower. So while organizing the pieces is a nice way to keep track of everything, don't loose sleep if you get them a bit mixed up. It should be easy to figure out what goes where.


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