t3/t4 hybrid turbo for drift/autox

[cloud3648]

would a t3/t4 hybrid turbo for a ka24de be good for drift/autox? also i know that t3/t4s are cheap so would a ebay kit be okay for those kinda turbos?

[SloTwoFourOhh]

would a t3/t4 hybrid turbo for a ka24de be good for drift/autox? also i know that t3/t4s are cheap so would a ebay kit be okay for those kinda turbos?

What are your power goals? A friend of mine has no problem with his t3/t4 setup putting down 303whp. He doesn't hit boost til around 3500rpm. T25 or T28 would give you some nice torque down low but they have power limitations.

I'm not a big fan of ebay turbo's, let alone the kits. They are people who run fine with them though. Brand names are worth it imo. Look at the cheap ebay turbo kit sticky. It has great info.

[Chris28]

In autocross you want a bunch of power on tap. Depending on the size of the t3/t4, you will run into problems with spool time. I suggest going bottom mount t28 if you want to have responsive power. Granted this will limit you in power, it will be perfect for an autocross car.

Bottom mount t2 is usually costs less than top mount t3/t4, but maintenance gets a little tricky when the turbo is under the manifold instead of sitting right on top. If you can find a small enough t3 you can go top mount, but otherwise slap on an ebay t2 manifold with a legit Garrett turbo and you'll have a long lasting setup.

[neverlift]

/\/\/\

good advice

I have probably the smallest t3 on the forum lol, I love it, hold boost to redline and hits it before you are ready. Easily do 10psi before 3k which leaves you 4k to move the car.

I love ebay manifolds they are cheap and replaceable, my t2 manifold is somewhere in florida being used right now, I was the 3rd or 4th owner.

my first t3 manifold cost me 50 bux and held up good till I got into a crash, it lasted 4 days or something after I built my new chassis then the wastegate blew off, from the crash impact and the car shutting off with no cool down.

Current manifold is the pricey ebay unit, it sucks for fitment but its more solidly built than the cheaper one cost me 50 bux new in box. Going on 2 months now.

keep in mind the countless name brand manifolds that have failed I know two local guys... IF you want the most reliable setup, cast manifold is the way to go and it will support the weight of the turbo better than SS as well as decrease spool up being less of a "bucket" to fill. T3s are heavy lol my t3 looks similar in size to an sr t25 BUT it came in almost 2lbs more. Plus typically you use an external waste gate on a t3 setup which is more weight on the manifold.

[SloTwoFourOhh]

In autocross you want a bunch of power on tap. Depending on the size of the t3/t4, you will run into problems with spool time. I suggest going bottom mount t28 if you want to have responsive power. Granted this will limit you in power, it will be perfect for an autocross car.

I love ebay manifolds they are cheap and replaceable, my t2 manifold is somewhere in florida being used right now, I was the 3rd or 4th owner.

my first t3 manifold cost me 50 bux and held up good till I got into a crash, it lasted 4 days or something after I built my new chassis then the wastegate blew off, from the crash impact and the car shutting off with no cool down.

Current manifold is the pricey ebay unit, it sucks for fitment but its more solidly built than the cheaper one cost me 50 bux new in box. Going on 2 months now.

50 bucks! Thats not bad(I'm interested now). Your current isn't 50 bucks is it? Didn't understand that last little statement that I quoted you. I would buy a turbo manifold. I've heard better reviews than I've heard negative. I just don't recommend the kits. Brand name "turbos" are worth it is what I meant to say in my first post. My buddies t3/t4 is a 50 trim with .63a/r. So he has some lag, but it doesn't bother him when he autocrosses. At the sametime though, autox isn't his forte or his favorite he's more drift/street racing type. Thats why he went with that size turbo.

So the question ->

"would a t3/t4 hybrid turbo for a ka24de be good for drift/autox?"

depends on what kind of performance you want. A t3/t4 is a good choice for either drift or autox but, maybe not the best depending on your looking for.

Modified by SloTwoFourOhh at 10:55 AM 10/5/2009
Modified by SloTwoFourOhh at 10:57 AM 10/5/2009

[neverlift]

well kinda, I bought injectors for 50 bux, and traded them for the manifold, same for my other t3 mani, except cusco upper plates instead of injectors.

Just hit craigslist and any place that has kat related parts used, people drop out before finishing all the time.

I am a lucky dawg when it comes to scoring parts cheap, my turbo cost 40 bux and had no shaft play and was very clean when I got it..

20 for the fmu used ,50 for recal kit, fixed the lower half with a dew can. ANd made a down pipe from some 2.5" part store crap and an ebya flange I had to mod to fit. 40 for an IC again I am a cheap f***er.

[SloTwoFourOhh]

well kinda, I bought injectors for 50 bux, and traded them for the manifold, same for my other t3 mani, except cusco upper plates instead of injectors.

Just hit craigslist and any place that has kat related parts used, people drop out before finishing all the time.

I am a lucky dawg when it comes to scoring parts cheap, my turbo cost 40 bux and had no shaft play and was very clean when I got it..

20 for the fmu used ,50 for recal kit, fixed the lower half with a dew can. ANd made a down pipe from some 2.5" part store crap and an ebya flange I had to mod to fit. 40 for an IC again I am a cheap f***er.

Well if it works you can't complain. Once I get started with my turbo build(hopefully b4 thanksgiving) I hope I'm as lucky.

[neverlift]

I forget to mention the patience .... I wait if the deal does not suite me...

[SloTwoFourOhh]

Very true.

[chaosli]

i just got my sohc out of the shop today with a garret t04e t3/t4 it spool pretty fast( it got 10psi at 2500) i could test it till redline cause something is holding me back either fuel or the maf i am getting a map setup and migger injectors so those will fix that. getting back on topic a garret t3 super 60 could probally get you what you wanted

[WDRacing]

Depends on the power goals. Don't buy anything T2 flanged...it's to small for the KA...PERIOD. Especially if you're into motorsports. The .48AR hotside T3/TO4 has almost no lag and the ability to make FAR more power then any T2 flanged POS.

Stay away from eBay turbo's. For every one person that has good luck, there are 400 that had the turbo die within 100 miles. Wanna roll the dice with those odds?

Adding a turbo to a car is not something you wanna cheap out on guys.

The eBay FMIC kits are decent. The BOVs leak, the gauges aren't to be trusted, the turbo's aren't balanced and journal bushings are crap.

Buyer beware.

WD

[neverlift]

my tiny t3 at 6psi feels sportier than 11~12 on a t25.

my greddy knock off has a leak, like the real one does, its not so much a leak as it is a response port, it assists the valve open... now the ssqv was a diff story... best one off ebay I had was the simple alu body brass piston... but the sound was failure.

[WDRacing]

Bosche makes an excellent bypass valve that's only like $80.

Here's one onsale for $47.

http://exaltmotorsports.com/i-....html

[neverlift]

yeah man but I took off a denso that was very efficient in favor of the greddy, but I like the ricer bov sounds Best one that comes stock(IMHO is from a volvo) adjustable from factory and they are a valve type. Sounded like the greddy but much crisper as the valve area was so much smaller.

wd should make a bov thread for people to compare and get others incite... I have personally had 5+ bovs, all had plus and minus about them. moar bad advice