t3/t4 help with oil lines

[danielmcn]

I am getting a t3/t4 turbo to go on my rb20. I will mostlikly go top mount too. My question is were do you get the oil and water lines? Is there a kit or do you have to make them?

I searched alittle so if this is asked alot sorry just looking for some help.

[Sil240]

EBay or atp Turbo or local line and hose shop

[R32ONP]

most t3t4s dont run water lines...u dont "need" them even if the turbo does run waterlines (watch the posts i get back for saying that lol) oil lines are simple...get a 1 metre long braided line and u just need a new longer rubber hose for oil drain

[Sil240]

I have a t3/t4 and I have Water lines on mine.
But he's right most don't have them.
If you do have it, then I would make an effort to hook them up.
It'll help keep your turbo cool and prevent coking on the CHRA.
But... you don't have to hook them up.

Check here Read page 2:
t3-t04e-questions-t239945-40.html?hilit=Turbo

Oil feed: 1/8" NPT
Oil drain: standard RB20/25 2 bolt flange with 2" spacing IIRC. Function 7 makes two drain flanges, one with 1/2" NPT female port and the other with a AN-10 male fitting, search ebay for T3 drain flange.

Coolant feed: 3/8" NPT
Coolant Drain: 3/8" NPT

[Yellow4g63]

Don't forget to take the oil restrictor out of the block before you hook up the oil line.

[danielmcn]

Don't forget to take the oil restrictor out of the block before you hook up the oil line.

were is that thing at? the feed or the return line?

How would this turbo compare to a rb25 turbo (thats what is on the car now).
the cold side is a .50 and i am not sure of the hot side, but its no bigger then the cold side if anything its a bit smaller.

The reason I ask is, I only have a little money to play with and I want the best bang for the buck. I am getting a really good deal on the turbo (free) and a waste gate (free) (not sure of the kind), and the rb25 turbo thats on my car now is going bad. So do I spend the money to fit the turbo and a new downpipe or replace the rb25 turbo. My motor is stock. I am planning on getting a FPR to contral the fuel a little and maybe a tune if I can aford it.

Man I started going of the deep end, lol thanx for the help and insight.

[Sil240]

Oil restrictor in the block????

Really??? It would be in the Oil feed port on the block.
Do you know what pressure it puts out with the restrictor?

It's much bigger!!

A rb25 turbo is like a T28 turbine with a T3 Compressor
It'll hit like 300 max

A t3/t4 50 will hit about 500

How much $ do you have to play with??
How much HP do you want?

With either Turbo if your turning up the boost you should get bigger injectors and some kind of chip or management.
You should stick with the stock manifold and have someone weld the wastegate flange on.
You'll need a downpipe made for the new turbo also.

Don't "tune" with a FPR!!!!!
Thats a good way to blow your motor.
Either you get the tune aka chip which would be best and cheapest and the new turbo with bigger injectors.

Or you get another RB25 turbo and stay at low boost.

[Yellow4g63]

Crap forget I said that lol. If you use a banjo style feed that reuses the stock banjo bolt then u have to drill that out.

[danielmcn]

It's much bigger!!

t3/t4 50 will hit about 500

How would the lag be?

How much $ do you have to play with??
How much HP do you want?

around $500 not including the turbo.
Right now I am just shooting for about 300 whp

Don't "tune" with a FPR!!!!!
Thats a good way to blow your motor.

I was not going to "tune" it with the FPR, but the FPR will help me give the motor a bit more fuel. I am not looking to put this t3/t4 on and run 20psi with only a FPR, but it will help. What I am saying is, if I am on 10psi and its a little lien, then the FPR will let me run that boost a bit safer. I may not be able to run 10 psi on stock fuel pressure, but if I bump it up a little (not so much to hurt the idle or low end) it will put more fuel in the chamber.

Or you get another RB25 turbo and stay at low boost.[/quote]

[Sil240]

Stick with another RB25 Turbo

Using a FPR to get more fuel is late 80's ghetto tuning.
If you use the FPR its linear.
Even if you get a different ratio FPR.

I can tell you for sure, because I logged data today.
At about 10psi from my t3/t4e I wasn't at full throttle nor did I get to redline.
I hit 95 duty cycle.
And I have a 1:1 adjustable FPR, set to stock though.

[danielmcn]

Stick with another RB25 Turbo

Using a FPR to get more fuel is late 80's ghetto tuning.
If you use the FPR its linear.
Even if you get a different ratio FPR.

I can tell you for sure, because I logged data today.
At about 10psi from my t3/t4e I wasn't at full throttle nor did I get to redline.
I hit 95 duty cycle.
And I have a 1:1 adjustable FPR, set to stock though.

All I am saying is that it will help. I bet if you turned your FPR up a bit your duty would drop.

[Sil240]

It would help, but I wouldn't drive around like that.
Rb25 turbo is straight bolt on, not need for a new DP.
Plus you get great response out of it.
My buddy is running it, I'm super jealous of the throttle response.

I have bigger injectors I just put in yesterday.

[danielmcn]

really I am ok with a rb25 turbo, its just I came into this deal and was just wondering how it would or wouldnt work. I mean my car is quick now on 15psi with the t28, but I will need to buy a nother turbo anyways. Why spend 200 on a factory replacement that is only good for about 14-15psi on a 20 when I can get this thing for nothing. If I could find a good t28 that was around 150 that would be ideal. Then I could upgrade other aspecs of the motor (injectors, tune.....).

[Sil240]

Is this your daily?

How long do you think this turbo on the car will last you?

How much do they want for the t3/t4?
If its Free take it!!!!!!!
If not give it to me :-)

But if you put on the t3/t4
You will need the following:
Oil Feed and Return lines
Wastegate
Wastegate flange welded on your mani
New Downpipe and wastegate pipe
New hot pipe
Bigger injectors
New Tune ( Chip or EMS or AFC (at the least, no timing control))
Z32 MAF - you'll max out the stocker

[danielmcn]

yeah it is my daily, but I my wife also has a car so if this is down for a week or so it wont hurt me much.

The turbo thats on the car is spitting oil out of where the compresser meets the center section. Its not a whole lot but it is still doing it, and I at full boost I get a hint of blueish smock out the tail pipe. I like the t28, I just dont want to get the most out of what I will be able to do. I am still on the fence, I may just source another t28 and upgrade other stuff.

I was trading some stuff for the turbo, but the guy backed out so I dont think I will get that one. If I do upgrade the turbo I will fab up the down/wastegate pipe myself, along with the hot side piping. I am running a n60 maf (I know its not has good as the n62, but it is better then the stocker).

[Sil240]

The $ you spend getting that Turbo in, You could have a good running rb25 Turbo with supporting mods.

You could hit 275whp with awesome response.
550 Injectors and a z32 Maf.
Same Dp and hot pipe.

I don't know what the n60 is but I think its the Same as the RB20.


Actually my buddy has a RB20 Turbo rebuilt wig steel wheels good for about 350. Brand new never used, maybe started on the motor.
What's your email ill give him your info.

[danielmcn]

yeah I may just upgrade stuff around the motor. The n60 is the maf from a nonturbo 300zx. Its a little better then the stock rb20 maf, I think the older maximas have the same maf as the rb20.

is it a t25 or a t28? My email is [email protected]

[R32ONP]

correct me if im wrong but arent the water cooling lines on the turbo only there for wen u turn it off and the turbo is really hot that it cools down alot slower to help with damage...so if ya dont turn it off after giving it full spool and getting the EGT up u wouldnt "need" water cooling....corect me if im wrong tho guys