T28 Oil Drain

[sjbsuperman1425]

ok so I'm a dumbass...

I got desperate and just did another test fit of the manifold and turbo on the car, took a pic, and then took a picture of a clock and imposed it over the turbo so I could see if the drain is facing the 5 o'clock position. It definately is! I'm super excited I dont have to go pay to have someone clock my turbo, but I feel retarded for not looking at it closer.

I unfortunately will not be able to do the Stainless Steel drain like I wanted though, since the angle is way to much of a curve for me to be able to use the fittings. If its cheaper for me to buy a 90degree fitting I may do that but otherwise I'm gonna just open the holes up on the stock drain and use that. Any suggestions guys?

[S13SilviaK]

I'm telling you Zak, I just modified my stock oil drain line and it worked perfect! Took me two seconds to do also!

[sjbsuperman1425]

maybe I just suck at fabricated, I dont have the proper tools, or my life just sucks because everytime I try to do something that is routinely done on here by everyone, I have the hardest damn time doing it lol

I'm trying to do that and I'm almost there, and right now I'm looking at cheap options..my second cheapest option is to buy a 90 degree AN fitting for the drain and run it like that. The straight just wont work

[sjbsuperman1425]

ok everyone i think I figured it out.

back when I went to the tubular manifold, i had to cut my stock drain pipe so it was basically straight, so its basically unusable with the center section having the drain at 5 o'clock. So I'm sticking with the stainless steel drain hose idea, but just need a 90 degree 10AN fitting for it to work. I will order that within the next day or two. Still have an iPhone to and a Sprint termination fee to pay off!

[float_6969]

I know you're gonna hate me for this, but I would seriously re-consider not getting that drain pointing straight down at "6 o'clock". Maybe it was just my luck, but when I didn't clock my center section on my T28, it was backing oil up past the seals. My turbo was new and so I was able to get it loosened up in the car and clock it that way, but I still wished I had done it while it was out of the car.

Have you tried heating the turbine housing with an Acetelene torch? (propane/mapp won't do it)

[sjbsuperman1425]

I've exhausted all the resources I have and have no idea who would be able to do this for me. I read somewhere that someone put theirs in an oven for 20 minutes at 350*f And that worked, but I'm really out of ideas... Any suggestions?

[sjbsuperman1425]

TERRIFIC NEW!

i used a acetelene torch when in class today to heat the exhaust side which easily allowed me to rotate the center section!

THE BAD NEW!

I rotated it to far and now the oil feed cannot be put on because the hose hits the flange that bolts to the manifold..no worries as I will remedy this tomrrow via the same process. Yay for college!

SIDE QUESTION:
I'm going to use my straight fitting like planned, but if the bend in the line is to tight and crimps the hose a little, can i put a spring inside the oil drain and use that to keep the structure of the hose? I think i read somewhere that someone did that (d-stirls maybe?), but just want to be sure. Thanks for all the help everyone! I owe you all a beer

[D_Stirls]

Yeah it would have been me, i have a spring inside that blue hose that i'm using for my drain. I used a stainless spring but since it's covered in oil i don't think it need to be stainless. In had stainless springs on my shelf as i have spring in my silicone coolant lines. If you are going to use a spring make sure that the hose is reinforced.

When you buy the hose there is a specs sheet that has the minimum bend radius. When i bought the hose, as the bend was < the 15cm bend radius the shop suggested the spring trick.

[float_6969]

Better idea yet, They sell a spring-like device that slides over a straight hose and allows you to turn it into any angle you want w/o it kinking. You should be able to get it at any parts store, although I think we (at my father in laws shop) gets them from NAPA.

[float_6969]

Found a link to the manufacturer, and now that I think about it, I think it's a NAPA only thing.
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?broch ... ion_id=541

[D_Stirls]

the issue with an external spring being that close to the turbine housing is that the heat soak that the metal would encounter could cause the spring to melt through/damage the hose.

[sjbsuperman1425]

if I can get the straight fitting to work, i'll be using stainless steel hose for my oil drain. I'm just covering all my basis before I throw everything on. I'll have it fully clocked by 5pm today so I may test fit it a couple times and see where my lines will be at.

[sjbsuperman1425]

Heres the deal:

I'm ditching the stainless steel line. Not easy enough to work with and I'm over the hole idea now..I found a thick, rugged hose to use in my basement that came off a KA so I'm using that with the stock drain. sucks that I didn't have the correct tool to open up the bolt holes though, so I have the guy in the machine shop at the auto parts store I work at opening them up a bit.

QUESTION:

I couldn't find a oil drain gasket under $11 shipped so I went to my local auto parts store (not my store haha) and got an EGR Gasket that is almost identical to the drain, except its for an EGR. Does anybody see any problems with this, or should I just take it back and buy the right gasket from say FRSport..?

[float_6969]

The stock gasket is just a paper gasket, and I would assume the EGR gasket is probably something similar.

[sjbsuperman1425]

Yea it's paper with metal in between

[DALAZ_68]

so since my t28 is still out of the car...what clock position should the oil drain be at then? lol

save me the trouble folks...lol...im reading 4:30 or 6 oclock positioning...?

[sjbsuperman1425]

5:00 is to far man. you need it around 6..

[s13drifter88]

between 5 and 7. not 5 and not 7. 630 is ok, 6 is perfect, 530 is ok. It also depends on the bearing tho too. JB turbo have a larger tolerance between the bearing, shaft and chra. Theyll tolerate a little more oil where BB turbos wont. They have tighter tolerances and dont like much oil at all, they just like to be pissed on and thats all. Thats why there are 2 different oil restrictors, .064" for JB and .032" for BB. JB can honestly go as far as dead on 5 or 7, anymore tho and youre pushing it. Its just to easy to clock it right the 1st time and not chance trashing the seals in your turbo imho

[float_6969]

As has been stated before, 6 o'clock is ideal. You can fudge a little away from there, but not much.