I was wondering if anyone here has replaced there stock t25 actuator, and if so I was wondering where you purchased it. I'm not looking to replace it with a used actuator so I dont encounter the same problem. Let me know guys.

I found an HKS one for 99$ I didn't search hard enough!

was it pretty easy to change? i just bought one of those too.

thread rezzing :nono

But I'll let it slide

It's an easy change, btw. There are two small bolts holding the actuator bracket onto the turbo, and an e-clip holding the armature to the wastegate door. Pop the clip off (don't lose it in case your new actuator doesn't have a replacement). i like to use a pick for it. It makes it easier. Then remove the two bolts (gear wrenches make the job much easier) and replace. I suggest setting the HKS unit's arm to a similar length as your old stock unit. Then go out and boost the car and see what it's pushing and shorten/lengthen the arm to change your boost settings.

Setting it can be a PITA cause you have to run the car to see what you're running, which makes it a long wait for the manifold and turbo to cool enough to alter. And if you have to do that 3 or 4 times....you get the idea.

But the adjustable wastegate will hit your ideal boost setting and hold it with no fuzzy logic computer or air bleeding fudging you up.

If you have a stock T25, I suggest setting the actuator to open around 12-13 PSI if you want max power and good durability. 14 psi is the ceiling on a T25, and at 15 you risk damage to the motor and the turbo is officially out of its efficiency range.

Also, when you consider the old formula that 1 pound of boost is equal to about 9 lb/ft torque, you're getting a fair amount at 13 since you just added 6 lbs. Although I question that gross over generalization of power production since every turbo's flow characteristics are different, but it should give you a rough estimation where you end up.

tenkawa_akito wrote:thread rezzing :nono

But I'll let it slide

It's an easy change, btw. There are two small bolts holding the actuator bracket onto the turbo, and an e-clip holding the armature to the wastegate door. Pop the clip off (don't lose it in case your new actuator doesn't have a replacement). i like to use a pick for it. It makes it easier. Then remove the two bolts (gear wrenches make the job much easier) and replace. I suggest setting the HKS unit's arm to a similar length as your old stock unit. Then go out and boost the car and see what it's pushing and shorten/lengthen the arm to change your boost settings.

Setting it can be a PITA cause you have to run the car to see what you're running, which makes it a long wait for the manifold and turbo to cool enough to alter. And if you have to do that 3 or 4 times....you get the idea.

But the adjustable wastegate will hit your ideal boost setting and hold it with no fuzzy logic computer or air bleeding fudging you up.

If you have a stock T25, I suggest setting the actuator to open around 12-13 PSI if you want max power and good durability. 14 psi is the ceiling on a T25, and at 15 you risk damage to the motor and the turbo is officially out of its efficiency range.

Also, when you consider the old formula that 1 pound of boost is equal to about 9 lb/ft torque, you're getting a fair amount at 13 since you just added 6 lbs. Although I question that gross over generalization of power production since every turbo's flow characteristics are different, but it should give you a rough estimation where you end up.

Do you recommend those? I was going to get one and I thought I saw one of your posts saying they're not really necessary.

In the thread you're thinking of, the kid had an electronic boost controller. Kind of redundant to have two boost controllers fighting each other. the EBCs usually work by stopping up the vac lin going to the actuator itself and when desired boost is reached, it lets vac through and the wastegate opens.

Adding the HKS unit wouldn't be very effective in that situation.

However, for cars without EBCs, the HKS units are very nice and very effective.

Thanks for clarifying.

so you can use the HKS ad. wastegate with a ele. boost controller?

for christs' sake. no. it would be stupid.

why the hell would you want to anyways? unless you like having 2 boost controllers fighting each other and wasting your money.

Yup HKS actuator is what I have. Cool thread!

Hijacker wrote:for christs' sake. no. it would be stupid.

why the hell would you want to anyways? unless you like having 2 boost controllers fighting each other and wasting your money.

I got the hks wastegate, it's on it's tightest setting and for some reason it would only hit 10 psi max. I've added a mbc to get it to boost to 13psi

Emperor_Tha wrote:
I got the hks wastegate, it's on it's tightest setting and for some reason it would only hit 10 psi max. I've added a mbc to get it to boost to 13psi

Huh. Thats weird. Correct me if I am wrong but the actuator can get it up to 1 bar, according to all the sites that sell it. wonder why you needed a mbc just to get to 13...interesting.

oh no...someone bumped this thread again..

ZOMBIE THREAD!!!!!!!!

frsport.com

I have a hks adjustable im welling to get rid of. 90 Bucks shipped to your door buddy

hijacker is right btw. Over boosting is against the law and bad for your health. if you are going to install an ajustable wastegate such as the hks just make sure you set the boost at the most to 13psi coming out of the turbo.... not the intake!! most intercooler designs will lower your psi about 1 psi due to the cooling of the air and new formed denisty. I set my old ka-t which at the time was running a sr t25 pee pee turbo to just barly under one bar (14.3-5ish) at the intake. with in a month a decent turbo went to crap.

Emperor_Tha wrote:
I got the hks wastegate, it's on it's tightest setting and for some reason it would only hit 10 psi max. I've added a mbc to get it to boost to 13psi

my buddy installed one on his sr and had the same problem..... dip stick didn't tightin the bolts good engouht since i warned him they would strip easy. If thats not the problem try using over sized washers to get rid of some of the flex from the wastegate mounting plate.

i think you need to cut down the hks arm

do not get a hks one they are crap and fall apart every 1000 miles

youngblood240 wrote:do not get a hks one they are crap and fall apart every 1000 miles

mine has lasted like 10,000 miles so far, so.....

I know this thread is years old but I figured I'd post my question in here rather than post a new thread

So my question is do I have to buy the entire HKS wastegate actuator kit ? Or can I reuse the stock bolts and bracket?

I have redtop with stock t25