T04 turbo nut issues

[Darius]

I was hoping to have the damned car running tonight but ran into a road block...go figure.

I can't get at this 15mm nut to torque it down and prevent an exhaust/air leak at the turbo flange. Does anyone have any ideas as to what to use to get ahold of that thing? Or do I need to install the exhaust housing first and then install the turbo onto the exhaust housing??? ThI think that might be even tougher to get a wrench on all of the turbo housing bolts.

[Coolwhip]

perhaps...

buy or use a cheap closed ended 15mm wrench.

cut off a third to a half of it.

also bend it to become like and offset handle.

and sing happy tunes while you mess with it.

Or just go the route of installing it piece by piece, had the same issue with the GTK.

[Coolwhip]

like a "crow's foot" wrench

[Darius]

That's what I'm thinking I need. A shorter wrench.

cdorhout says he has a shorty 15mm 12-point wrench that I can try. Gonna give that a shot tomorrow night.

[OpeLok]

all else fails.. my suggestion would be to uninstall center section and leave turbine housing. Tighten down, and reconnect center section to turbine housing. From the picture it looks like you havent connected the hot pipe yet, and that oil return line looks flexible so you won't have to take that off. And feed line isn't installed so... that's how I would do it if it was mine. Is that a lock nut I hope?

[BoostFab]

damn; how the he11 you got it in there the first place?!?looks like you may have to clock the turbo to get to it. or remove the blue adapter that is blocking the way, and inch it out slowly.

my advice (once you get the turbo off), get new Allen bolts for your turbo; it will save you a lot of busted knuckles.

[gawdzilla]

That bolt is a PITA. since you already have the manifold on the car, you probably should remove the turbine housing all together. tighten the turbine housing to the manifold by itself. in order to take off the turbine housing you probably need to remove the water line fittings and that oil drain flange.

the way i did it was took off the oil drain flange and tightened the entire turbo to the manifold off the car. even that method was pretty tough to get that bolt down. mine isn't as snug as i'd like it to be. after that i put the turbo+manifold on. with the turbo being on first, it doesn't make tightening the manifold too much harder. it's more annoying but not impossible

the last method (slowest, but probably best) is to remove the turbine housing, AND tighten it to the manifold off the car. reassemble the turbo off the car so you can reach all the housing bolts easily. then put the manifold+turbo on.

i would try the first method above... see if you can separate the chra/compressor side from the turbine

edit: i dont know what thread your manifold is, but maybe see if you can get that same nut head size in a 14mm or 9/16"... that will give you a tiny bit more room to work

[l0nestar]

Immediately after seeing that picture I thought of either of the following:

1. Crows Foot fitting2. Disassemble the front / compressor housing3. remove turbo and manifold, set them on a bench / vice and assemble outside of car4. Change bolt to a hex-head (Allen) cap-screw instead of a bolt.

I think some of these may have been covered already :-\

The design of the CHRA for this bolt is a p!ss-poor design

Oh yeah, make sure to get the bolts out of stainless, not carbon steel, and coat the threads to prevent galling.

gawdzilla also brought up a good point about going with a smaller head bolt. You may be able to also use a washer for additional surface area, if you wanted.

[Darius]

like a "crow's foot" wrench

I can get that end of the wrench on, but the sides of the wrench bind on the housing so no turny.

Is that a lock nut I hope?

Yep, they are lock nuts.

damn; how the he11 you got it in there the first place?!?

I have dainty, skinny fingers resembling those of women.

i dont know what thread your manifold is, but maybe see if you can get that same nut head size in a 14mm or 9/16"... that will give you a tiny bit more room to work

That would make a huge difference because I have a short, 12-pt, 9/16" wrench that I can probably get the closed end over if I had a smaller nut on there.

4. Change bolt to a hex-head (Allen) cap-screw instead of a bolt.

Oh yeah, make sure to get the bolts out of stainless, not carbon steel, and coat the threads to prevent galling.

gawdzilla also brought up a good point about going with a smaller head bolt. You may be able to also use a washer for additional surface area, if you wanted.

l0nestar - is there a good way to keep the allen bolt from backing out? Do lock washers work after heat cycling on a manifold? An allen bolt in this location seems to be the simplest alternative to disassembling and reassembling everything in varying orders.

[l0nestar]

l0nestar - is there a good way to keep the Allen bolt from backing out? Do lock washers work after heat cycling on a manifold? An Allen bolt in this location seems to be the simplest alternative to disassembling and reassembling everything in varying orders.

I would most definitely recommend using lock-washers. I cannot confirm if they would back out or not, due to the extreme heat produced by your snail, but I will tell you this, I have and continue to use them (Allen bolt + flat washer + lock washer) on my V8. (Shorty "block-hugger" headers and on the collectors as well). Just make sure to use anti-seize and stainless hardware. Clear as mud?

I have dainty, skinny fingers resembling those of women.

LAWL! That made me laff!

[240z4u]

Heat cycling lock washers will remove the tension, you want these.

http://search.ebay.com/search/...gory0=

Evan

They are discussed in this thread;

http://forums.hybridz.org/show...+lock

[Shocker]

Look at my tuning update thread oh how I installed mine. It's easy and takes less time in the long run. Hardest part is the lowest screw on the hotside when reinstalling the center section.

EDIT: also make sure that drain is -10an... It doesn't look like it is in the pics.

[Darius]

yep it is -10.