Synthetic oil

[Big Tone]

I've been using Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic for the last couple oil changes (5W30 since it's been cold) and the last time I was shopping for oil (you all will be glad to know I kicked Jiffy Lube to the curb!) I noticed Quaker State has a synthetic that claims to provide the best gas mileage and horsepower over all the other synthetic oils. The name of it escapes me at the moment, but hopefully someone here will know what I'm talking about. Is it any good? Are there any other synthetics that are better than the Mobil 1?

Also, being in Chicago with the cold weather and all, when is a good time to switch back to 10W30?

[DominickJ30]

Ive been using 10w30 this whole winter without any probs

The name of the oil is Q by quaker state. But who cares, nothing is better than mobil 1. Maybe amsoil but it gets expensive.

[driverdriver]

I regularly use the Quaker State synthetic in both the Jeep(10w30) and Acura(5w20) with a Quaker State oil filter and have used it in the J on occassion(with Valvoline/Quaker State Max Life oil filter). Have noticed no difference between the Quaker State and Mobil1 Synthetics.

Use whichever one you want.

The only synthetic I would stay away from is Castrol. They defined the word "synthetic" on there own terms which basically means expensive regular oil with additives. I would also stay far away from Fram oil filters!

[VimyJJ]

I've been using Autozone (formerly Caostal) full synthetic 10-30. It meets all the latest specs and costs ~$3.50 per quart.

[Atomic-S14]

GI JOE's has redline synthetic motor oils on sale 5.99 per bottle herei picked up 4 bottle of 5W30

[supersnake83]

Just curious,

What is wrong with Fram oil filters? I have been using those on the J, my mom's 2002 Altima, and formerly my 1991 Camry V6. Is there something I should know about?

I know that it is highly recommended to use OEM oil filters on the J, but the dealer is quite far from my house and getting it shipped from AZ is probably a waste of time cosidering $8.00 shipping.

Please let me know because I thought Fram was a pretty good company.

Thanks,

Geoff.

[driverdriver]

You should cut open a Fram filter and then cut open a Quaker State, Nissan OEM filter or any other non Fram made oil filter. The "filter" part in a Fram filter is basically non-existent. Everyone in the auto industry (from mechanics to engineers) know that Fram filters do a very poor job of filtering motor oil. Its like using no filter at all. There are literally thousands of negative threads on the web about Fram oil filters.

[Big Tone]

So OEM and Quaker State are the best filters?

[yodawill2000]

Wonder what the Napa Golds are .. Hmmm..

[driverdriver]

Basically any oil filter NOT built from Fram is good. Friends and colleagues who work in the auto industry recommend oil filters by Quaker State/Valvoline, Mobil1, Mopar, K&N, AC Delco and Nissan OEM.

I stick to the above brands.

[atlanta_shooter]

I don't know about the Quaker State syns...I used to run Mobil 1 5w-30. Switched to the new "extended performance", i.e. 50% more "supersyn" last change. They were out of 5w-30, so I switched to 10w-30 and noticed my oil pressure light doesn't come on briefly at startup as it did with 5w-30. The new stuff runs abt. 26.00 for a 5-qt jug at Wal-Mart. I also use the new Mobil1 #M-108 "extended performance" oil filter which I get at AutoZone for abt 12 bucks. Plan to use a drain interval of 7500 mi.

[Gerardjg]

Here is a good article about oil filters by some one who bought every brandfilter he could find and then dissasemled and critiqued.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.n....html

[chiller]

yeah that's a good article i had read it a few years ago, the easiest thing to look for in the filter on that report is just look at the number of pleats, theoretically the higher number of pleats will equal higher amount of surface area to filter thru...more filtration means better ability to trap crap going back into your motor...seems simple science on that one to me...

as for synth versus reg. oil, i did notice fuel mileage was better using mobil 1 or valvoline synpower versus any reg. 'dino' oil, the engine did sound 'quieter" if that is possible and seemed to run just a hair smoother at highway cruising....however if you calculate out the cost of mobil 1 versus the mileage difference it doesn't add up, it maybe better for your motor but the flip side to that is i've not had a motor that didn't last to 200,000 miles anyway so the point is moot 'cuz at 200,000miles i'm getting tired of the car and am wanting something new...that isn't to say i didn't use it synth. i just used it in harsh driving conditions, as in when i was living down in utah/colorado to go up and down mountains all the time i used the synth, but since moving here to ontario where everything is flat and a mountain is considerred to be big at 500ft i switched over to using 'dino' oil because its just more economical...

my 2 cents...

[gr8scott72]

Wonder what the Napa Golds are .. Hmmm..

IIRC Napa gold is a relabeled Wicks filter. Good filter.

edit: it's wix not wicks. (Just put a new wix fuel filter on the J)
Modified by gr8scott72 at 11:30 AM 4/9/2006

[Q45tech]

You will be asked what filter and what oil grade, quality, you used as you try to enter paradise...........OH you didn't care about your cars future owner who will probably be some very poor hard working guy, trying to feed 6 kids.

The only safe way is to never sell a car except to the junk man.

305,000 miles on my Q.

[elwesso]

LOL!

I use M1 synthetic, and have used others too... ill run 1030 in the summer, which my summer fil is coming soon.

[cesoj]

keep in mind that older engines may not benefit from the synthethic properties. The oils are more refined meaning loss of compression and potentially increasing oil leaks or spills as the can fit through the cracks. I have had many mechanics state that it is better to get the right grade of oil that the engine was speced out at. Also factor in the temperature that the oil will be exposed to.

[gr8scott72]

I have switched my J30 at 170k miles and my last VW VR6 with 120K miles when I got them both over to Mobile 1 without and adverse side affects. No leaks, no noticable performance lose.

Had my VR6 till about 150k miles seeing over 7k rpms daily and never had any problems.

I say, if you want to switch to synthetic do it.

[elwesso]

keep in mind that older engines may not benefit from the synthethic properties. The oils are more refined meaning loss of compression and potentially increasing oil leaks or spills as the can fit through the cracks. I have had many mechanics state that it is better to get the right grade of oil that the engine was speced out at. Also factor in the temperature that the oil will be exposed to.

A lot of these things are only true with eariler synthetic oils..... This is not generally the case...

Sometimes, however, if you're expecting a leak you may find one you didnt notice before..

I will agree wiht your first sentance but for different reasons... bottom line is that say after 100k or so the engine has worn enough that you wont really benefit from synthetic's anti-friction characteristics.

[RussA89]

So, do engines benefit at all from the "high mileage" blends that they hawk at places like Spiffy Lube? They're a synthetic blend, as I understand it. Does that make any difference on 100k+ engines, or is it just marketing hype?

[elwesso]

I have to think its marketing hype.. I dont know the actual specifics, but as long as your engine still is in spec with regular oil (oil pressure) theres no reason to change.

[driverdriver]

So, do engines benefit at all from the "high mileage" blends that they hawk at places like Spiffy Lube? They're a synthetic blend, as I understand it. Does that make any difference on 100k+ engines, or is it just marketing hype?

You know, Consumer Reports asked that very question last year. They tested these so called higher mileage blends and found one of them did help a bit. I believe it was the Quaker State formulation. It had something that replenished dry oil seals and extra detergents. All the other ones where simply over-priced oil.

Having said, that I'm sticking to Mobil1.

[RussA89]

Good to know. You gotta love Consumer Reports. Thanks a lot.

[SR20drftSX]

i just put the mobil 1 full syn 10w-30 in my stock 89 240sx fastback 3 pedal and IMMEDIATELY i noticed it was much smoother and started up alot easier and idled much better. before it had castrol or some S*** brand in it and it stumbled and sputtered up and down between 600 and 800 rpm , now (after the oil change) it stays right at 750-780..big time difference...deff highly reccomend the full syn from mobil 1..also get the mobil 1 filter..deff a good carb and choke cleaner will help ANY accel or idle problem...after io cleaned my intake out with some good cleaner it ran like day one...got 169,000 on it now..stick with syn or atleast mobil 1