synthetic oh no!

[gumby]

well i have a jasper remanufacture KAE with around 21k on it. i dont know what it was running before. i used valvoline synthetic 10w30. ran it for about 1k. checked the oil and it was low. so it must be burning it. not sure why that would be.

sigh

so what should i do now 10w40?

[gumby]

im thinking what i'll do is top it off with 10w40. ive got a 600mile trip to make so i'll change it after that. 3qt 10w30 3/4qt 10w40 not quite sure what my reasoning is for that maybe thicken it up a little.

perhaps it was running regular oil and the switch to synthetic has something to do with it.

any input would be appreciated

[trackslut240]

huh?, synthetic from my experience does get burned up a little easier than regular, but on a high mileage engine, like past 170k not on a fairly new one, check for leaks, oil spots in the driveway, on my last 240 and this one both had 170k plus, use to burn a 2qts every 3000 miles, so i tried cd2, some oil additvie to increase the viscosity, it slowed it down, but i just reringed the first one and it stopped burning oil, these are cheap fixes: chemical additives, thicker viscosity, i would look for leaks and do a compression test, good luck and post ur findings thanksalso look around the main seals, front and rear, traces of oil means bad seal, also check vavle cover breather and throttle body for excessive oil buildup

[gumby]

no leaks its dry. couldnt find 10w40 so i just topped it off with 10w30 took a full quart. ill change it soon enough. get rid of whatever sludge it dissolved. i'll try maybe half and half 30/40

compression test might be the way to go. thanks.

im thinking it could be the rings dont seal well. maybe after they ream it out during the rebuild they dont fit as well. just a guess.

crap.

[koukiKA240]

check your PCV or as nissan puts it "Breather Seperator" it most likely isnt "seperating" the oil from the air and recycling it to the motor at a slow enough rate for it not to burn blue. Its $60 new at nissan.~Sam

[gumby]

$60? thats not the pcv valve then. i checked the hose going to the intake its clean as a whistle.

[RipShift]

yeah thats definatly not the pcv valve, those go for like $2-3, $5 tops

[koukiKA240]

Its the silver box on the side of the oil pump that has a hose going from its box to the 4 ports on the bottom of the intake, it is part of the pcv system and if its not functioning properly it will allow oil from the crankcase to the intake.~Sam

[Disciple]

I just baught an 89 240sx and I go through about 2 qts of oil in a month!! I dont want to put any money into this motor because I want to swap it. Any ideas on a possible cheap fix?

[Florida240sx]

Does it have a purple plug to it?Because I'm losing oil in my KA-T and have no idea.I don't see it burning and I have no oil leaks. When jacking my motor that plug got pulled on a little and could be damaged. It was a purple plug going into the intake mani at the back of the motor.

['90_240sx_Lover]

*gasp* my car is burning oil too. I filled it up, drove about 250 miles (thats about what i drive before i fill up) and the oil was barely touching the "ok" zone on the dip stick. i had it in the middle. I plan on doing a swap to. Anyone know what i can do to check? i noticed a burning oil smell when i was driving the other day, I was passing someone and went up to 5k, then i smelled it coming through the vents (i think that was where it was coming from). I'm not sure if its just getting hot so its burning the oil and gunk on the engine (the lady before me said she replaced a gasket, she didn't know which one and the mechanic only cleaned the top of the engine) I'm not sure where the oil is leaking/burning from but i would like to fix it. I don't have any oil spots on the driveway though, so i think its burning it. Any help?

[gumby]

ok i know what your talking about. that got transferred from the old motor. i doubt if it got cleaned during the process. can it be removed and cleaned to your knowledge?

[fire_head57]

You would want 15w40, not 10w40. Personally, i have never heard of 10w40 and i worked at a drive through lube shop. A can of Bardahl #2 or Lucas Oil stabilizer should be added if 15w40 does not stop the burning. (Not sure if Bardahl is compatible with synthetic oils. Lucas is available for regular and syn.). If you are still burning after 15w40 and Bardahl/Lucas, your next alternative is 20w50 instead of 15w40.

[gomer23]

Ya that Lucus Oil Stabalizer works pretty well, when I had my blazer it would burn some oil on start up, when I changed my oil I put 4 quarts of Valvoline 10w-30 in and 1 quart of Lucus Oil Stabalizer and pretty much stopped the leak, still did it once in awhile, but it was much much better.

[gumby]

ok 15w 40 thats good to know.

thanks

[nelson8708]

i started to use syn. oil in my car and for about 500 miles it was ok. Then it started to smoke when i take off. Only when it was sitting for a while. I switched back to a syn. blend oil for high milage engines and it stoped smoking. I use a 10w30 weight oil in the winter and a 10w40 weight oil in the summer. Lucas and Marvel Mystery oil stabilizer work very well to help thicken oil, and stop cars from smoking. Never used lucas but heard good things. I use about half a quart of marvel when i change my oil.

[HashiriyaS14]

I thought my car was burning, but it turns out I just had a very slow oil leake from the oil pan gasket.

Seems that a lot of cars end up with this problem.

[gumby]

ok old post but here it goes

the consumption had leveled off but it still burns about 1/2 qt every 1k

i called valvoline they recommended using the max life synthetic formula so i threw in a quart of it with oil change

[fullthrtl_tech]

i wish my car had only been leaking a little oil, last week my front crank seal tore. I replaced it today. hahaha it was using 1 quart a day.