symptoms of a bad transmission? or is this my clutch

[toledo240]

This is a problem ive been trying to figure out for awhile now. let me explain.when is hoton a hot humid day after driving 20 minutes or so in stop go situations the clutch feels like it starts top slip at 4000 rpms. (when i mean slip it will accelerate till than and than will just rev up with no acceleration). The car will start shaking violently when it starts slipping. as time goes on it starts to slips at 3500,3000 than 2000 etc. by that time the car doesnt accelerate. I observed that letting it idle once this happens The car wont even move in any gear. The clutch will go in ever gear and it will rev all the way but will not accelerate at all! wont even move. But yet it doesnt smell let a fried clutchon the freewayI observe what would happen if i was doing a constant speed. Now after getting the clutch to slip i took it on the freeway. After about 15 minutes of just cruising speed. It cures itself and i can accelerate fully. this is only when im at a constant speed, getting off the freeway and driving again on a hot day will make it slip again.In the coldnow in the cold its a lot different. I dont get this problem at all driving in stop go situations. after pounding on the car, and leting it idle it will not do the same thing. I did get the clutch to slip about 4000 rpms after but than it sometimes it will catch. When it slips then it shakes my car violently again, and its pretty scary. It feels like that carzy shacking is coming from the differential.

what ive been told and what ive been thinkingclutch peedle could be adjusted. -when i installed the clutch i dont even think i adjusted the peedle that much. i have no slack in the peedle. but it catches very fast when i let off the clutch.throw out bearing assembly- i did not replace this but it was still in good shapetranny problems-the gears tend to slip when the fuid gets hot. or the gears itself are shot.the clutch is a spec stage 3 and its does not eat up the the master cylinder fluid. what should i do? how do i know if i have a bad transmission.

[Vr6WantSr20det]

wut kind of clutch is it? Definatley try adjusting the clutch master cylander by the clutch pedal first, this will be easy and save u money if it's the problem. But it does sound as if the clutch is worn, especially if it slips more when heated up. Good luck.

[toledo240]

now that its hot out i tried to see what happens. after driving a little it started to slip. I let it idle and it wouldnt moved in any gear, even though the pedal felt totally fine i would put it in gear and give it no gas, the thing wouldnt even stall out!!! i started to just put it in gear without even pushing the clutch and it would even stall out. what could it be?

[TanManS14]

Well all those syptoms are of a clutch going bad. I know a friends who's went bad, but these symptoms came very slowly not all of the sudden it just got worse and worse over time. Which is normal for a clutch going bad. It makes me think if its a brand new clutch its probably the TOB, but before you pull the transmission I would check the slave ect. before investing a bunch of time. Ive also heard of a lot of people that have trouble with those clutches. good luck.

[S13240]

Definitely a clutch issue, although the slippage on my brother's s13 was consistent no matter it was hot or not.

[Nismo_Freak]

Adjust the rod by the pedal so that the clutch engages normally and not off the floor. Engaging too high or too low in the pedal travel will cause slippage.

Also make sure your slave cylinder is working properly, get a friend to make sure the rod is pushing the bearing fork all the way.

A bad TO bearing would be noisy, they will squeel and chatter when they go bad.

[toledo240]

yeah its not the throw out bearing since it makes no noise. The slave cylinder is working fine, im just going to pull the clutch. Ill neve go back to spec clutches!

[xero1]

i heard in the 70's nissan had a air scoop and heat sink on their m/t, so if you find a way to get some air to the clutch it will cool it. drill some holes on the plate the seperate the transmission and the engine.

[Deadrodent]

definitely sounds like clutch adjustment. i had a very similar problem.

First, check if you have about half an inch of freeplay in the clutch pedal (i.e. you can press the clutch pedal lightly and it will depress without engaging/disengaging the clutch)

if not then your clutch is probably out of adjustment. there is a small rod with a 12 mm nut attached to it that attaches to the back of the clutch pedal and is inserted into the back of the clutch master cylinder. loosen the 12 mm nut and use some needle nose pliers/small vice grips to turn the rod

Question: After adjusting this rod do you have to bleed the lines again? i adjusted my own and after about a day of driving i have 3-4 inches of freeplay and about an inch of engagement at the very bottom of the pedals travel.
Modified by Deadrodent at 12:53 AM 4/24/2006

[Nismo_Freak]

yeah its not the throw out bearing since it makes no noise. The slave cylinder is working fine, im just going to pull the clutch. Ill neve go back to spec clutches!

Ugh...

Check the freakin' adjustment like I said, seriously before you go ripping crap apart only to find out it's not a $400 part, it's a 10 minute adjustment.

[toledo240]

hey forgot to give the update. Nismo freak was right i adjusted that bad boy and i run fine. thanks alot

[jin3001]

read the advice you gave another member expieriencing the same symptoms im having.you were dead on.you guys are the best.thanks.

[jin3001]

i have the same symptom on my car,did the adjustment you said to do and it worked.you guys are great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!