Pads, like polishes, come in various levels of abrasiveness. I generally use a medium pad and adjust the polish unless the car is either really, really screwed up or looks mostly fine but needs light work. Work it in and wipe it off (doesn't need to haze). Inspect the surface and if it's cleaned up, move on. If not, go with a more abrasive combo until it does clean up. I've actually had to go with super-abrasive combos in the past that got the worst swirls out but created minor ones which I then had to take out with less-abrasive combinations.ArbitrageMan wrote:These responses were exactly what I was looking for!! Thanks!
Is applying polish done with the same mechanics as waxing? Put some on the pad of the porter cable, work it in, let it haze then wipe off? THT you mentioned using the right polishing pad. What does that mean?
Im going to assume that light abrasive (SSR 1) is used on light swirls?
P.S. THT that car is awesome.
true, but the 3m 1200 extra cut (part num 06060) is smooth as butter . This stuff is a long way from being heavy. The cuttng power is awesome and it breaks down and comes off with ease(sp) without any problems or marring. Thank for the info on the Meguiars #105.. I'll look into that one.paperfootball wrote:Cakedaddy, FWIW the 3M PI-3000 extra cut compound is not recommended for use by orbital buffer. One should only use such a heavy compound with a rotary buffer because of the nature of abrasive. When an orbital is used and the abrasives don't break down properly micromarring can occur.
Meguiars #105 cuts *almost* as much, but will leave a much better finish via PC(porter cable for those who aren't detailing nerds).
I've read a little about this PB blk Hole while browsing on autogeeksonline.netTHT wrote:I strongly recommend being careful with heavy abrasives. There's a Porsche that a friend of mine used to detail and the owner wanted it polished every weekend...in about two years, he needed to have it re-cleared...
Youve got mailpaperfootball wrote:You are in Wahsington DC correct? If you would like I can find you a professional in your area who can do some *real* detailing to your car--not just make-up/oily glazes.
Doing this on your own would require months of reading, about $200+ in products, $325 or so for a good polisher, pads, etc. You could just pay a professional, learn to wash/dry your car correctly, and be done with it.
I own/operate a *real* detail shop here in Memphis, but can find you a talented detailer in your area--someone that I would allow to work on my car.
It really has nothing to do with "feel" or the "texture" of the compound, moreso with the nature of the abrasive used--it really needs the friction of a rotary in order to preoperly break down. You might not even see such micromarring in full sun, but under 1000 watt haolgens it would be obvious.CakeDaddy wrote:
true, but the 3m 1200 extra cut (part num 06060) is smooth as butter . This stuff is a long way from being heavy. The cuttng power is awesome and it breaks down and comes off with ease(sp) without any problems or marring. Thank for the info on the Meguiars #105.. I'll look into that one.
Modified by CakeDaddy at 2:58 PM 11/12/2008
Just shoot me an email with your contact info.Fafdawg wrote:paperfootball, Can you recommend anyone in VA or DC area. I need to get mine done with Professional. Thanks
exactly... I see people with these nice new blk cars lined up at these rain tunnel, octopus style automated systems. Bad move! Wash it yourself and blow it dry with a leaf blower. There are numerous way to eliminate swirls/scratched on a black car, but keep in mind that the best products aren't cheap and aren't always found in auto-zone,pep boys, etc... Don't sell out to using cheap product and expect to get results. Visit your local napa paint store for the quality products. Also, do some research on http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/. Sign up and look around and I promnise... you'll find what you are looking for. Good luck and keep it BLACK!GJEMD wrote: The main issue is NEVER subject a black car to an automated contact car wash. Hand wash only
LOL... I think the full sun puts out more than a 1000 watts, so thats the unltimate test for mepaperfootball wrote:
You might not even see such micromarring in full sun, but under 1000 watt haolgens it would be obvious.
Like I said man, if it works for you--cool. We examine paint under mulitple sources of light to gather the *real* state of the clear and I promise there will be micromarring.CakeDaddy wrote:
exactly... I see people with these nice new blk cars lined up at these rain tunnel, octopus style automated systems. Bad move! Wash it yourself and blow it dry with a leaf blower. There are numerous way to eliminate swirls/scratched on a black car, but keep in mind that the best products aren't cheap and aren't always found in auto-zone,pep boys, etc... Don't sell out to using cheap product and expect to get results. Visit your local napa paint store for the quality products. Also, do some research on http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/. Sign up and look around and I promnise... you'll find what you are looking for. Good luck and keep it BLACK!
LOL... I think the full sun puts out more than a 1000 watts, so thats the unltimate test for me
It has 0 cutting properties and is applied using a 0 cutting pad so you should use it after you're done polishing and using all abrasives (even the most minor ones). I usually apply it just before the wax.CakeDaddy wrote:
I've read a little about this PB blk Hole while browsing on autogeeksonline.net
question: Poorboy's Black Hole? How and at what point do you apply this when detailing your exterior? I read that it can be applied at any time, true? ....and, your car looks amazing thx
Modified by CakeDaddy at 7:57 PM 11/12/2008
thanks for the info and the props on my car. I ordered some last week so it should arrive anyday now. I've read reviews on this stuff and I like what I saw, but hearing and seeing another blk y34 owner approve of it makes it officialTHT wrote:
It has 0 cutting properties and is applied using a 0 cutting pad so you should use it after you're done polishing and using all abrasives (even the most minor ones). I usually apply it just before the wax.
And thanks, yours is lookin' pretty sweet too!
I found someone for you. Can you shoot me an email and I will give you his contact info.zoomie wrote:I am in Atlanta. Can you recommend someone re: detailing/removing swirls on black M35. Appreciate it!
Follow up post here:ArbitrageMan wrote:I recently bought a 2006 M45 sport, in black. I was very hesitant to buy a black car because every time I see one on the road, the first thing that stands out are the swirl marks. When I bought this one I made sure the paint was in excellent condition. However, in the sun I can see some light swirl marks on the quarter panels and the trunk.
My first question is, how do these swirl marks/scratches form? Are they from washing with a dirty cloth? Using a chamois? Using an orbital polisher? Automatic car washes?
Second of all, I dont mind fixing these myself (clay bar for the residue, meguiars scratch X, then wax), but its getting cold here and Im lazy, so Im cool with paying someone. In general, are professional detailers going to know how to remove these swirl marks? Am I taking too much of a chance by taking it to someone? Am I better off doing it myself (I have zero experience other than applying wax)? Thoughts?
And third, should these scratch removal products (Scratch X) be applied by hand, or by an orbital polisher?