I replaced the scv solenoid and cleared codes. Started it let it run and warm up. Same issue. Check engine light came back on and same p1130 code. I have cleaned throttle body and maf sensor. Put 2 new O2 sensors in. I have an irregular idle and when motor hits 1700-1800rpm it will cut out like it's hitting a rev limiter. But if I push gas a little more it will run fine. It's just at around 1700rpm it cuts out and will come back. And the irregular idle.

With three hoses on the SVC solenoid, you don't want to have accidentally mixed them up. Also, you need to check for vacuum leak at all of the hoses for the EGR system (manifold to SVC solenoid, SVC solenoid to BPT valve, EGR valve to BPT valve, SVC solenoid to intake pipe). Often, there is a hose to the BPT valve on the bottom from the EGR Valve and that one springs a leak. Did you get a junk yard SVC solenoid or a new one? You can check it's flow path by blowing through it and then again with 12v applied and blowing through it again. The path should change with voltage applied. Also, there is a wire subharness and such that you need to do your due diligence in inspecting. Make sure you have continuity between the ECU pins and the SVC solenoid plug. You should use the FSM if you're not. The EC chapter has most of this information in it...

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/1996_D21_Truck/

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I believe I found the problem actually..My throttle position sensor is, I believe, causing this headache.. I checked it out with a multi meter and there is no voltage fluctuations at all on the signal wire when I move the throttle from closed to fully open.. it stays steadily at 2.4v no matter what. I tested it several times trying to get some fluctuations but no go. And if I understand correctly it's supposed to gradually increase from around 1.8v at closed position to around 4.5+ or so in wide open position.. so I think my TPS is the problem even though it's not throwing a code for it. I believe as long as the signal voltage is not greater than the max voltage on hot wire it will not say it's bad? I think since it's stuck at 2.4v that it's not telling the scv to operate properly.. also the scv solenoid was new.. I never use junk yard parts if at all possible always try to use OEM equipment.

Well, if you check voltage or Ohms on the wrong pair of wires, you'll get a constant like that I think. Anyway, unplug it and drive around. If it was toast, then plugged in or not shouldn't matter and you'll get the same driving experience. If driving gets worse, then it was working somehow and might not be the problem, so plug it back in.

Another idea is to unplug the TPS and instead test the sensor itself for Ohms (car is off). You should get a smooth range of resistance when you move from closed to open throttle (twist throttle by hand) and it's safe to test on any pair of TPS tabs since there's no real power being ran through it and the car is not running or anything.

Now, the TPS could be an issue in addition to the SVC solenoid, but wouldn't throw that code, so keep working on the original issue. Checking your wires from SVC solenoid to ECU pins is part of that and you should do it. Checking vacuum hoses is also part of it and should be done.

I'm pretty sure I tested it correctly. I did find specifically how to test it and I tried it several times with same result.I also, since posting, have talked with a tech who told me that if the TPS has failed in this way where it's stuck in one reading will not throw code for TPS seeing as it's a lower voltage Than the max voltage to TPS and also said if this is the case that it will cause the scv code since the scv solenoid is activated based on readings from the TPS. Especially since the TPS in this case is also the idle sensor. 2 plugs in the same sensor. Anyways I got a new TPS on the way and I guess will see if it fixes the issue.

Interesting. What the tech says makes sense on the surface. Please keep us updated.

Update... Problem solved! Slapped in a new throttle position sensor and cleared code. Issue gone. Idles beautiful and no cutting out at 1700 rpm. No check engine light.