Swirl Control Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction

[jlibed]

I have 01 Pathfinder SE 4WD VQ35D. It threw out a P1131. I have been reading all the posts related to it. I want to replace the valve but after reading all the posts. I do not know
1. Where it is.
2. Is it known by another name. I went to O'Reilly's and when they looked it up they couldn't find it. I have searched NAPA and the rest and no part comes up when I type Swirl Control Solenoid Valve. I have even typed the part number I saw in another post.
3. Is it an easy job. I am by far no mechanic but I can get by if it is not to difficult.
I really don't want to take it in because I know it will cost an arm and a leg. Plus I have to replace the front wheel bearing hub assembly for my Titan also. ughh that will be another post. I use my Pathfinder more.
Can any help?

Thanks!

[atraudes]

1. Per the FSM, page EC-461, which is the section on the P1130 code which appears to be the same thing

2. The FSM refers to it as a "swirl control valve control solenoid valve". It makes perfect sense if you don't think about it too much Which part number did you search for that didn't work out?
3. It's as simple as it gets to access and replace. You'll probably only need a 10mm wrench. It's front and center right below the plastic engine cover.

Be sure to blow out the vacuum lines first to rule that out. If you find that any of them are clogged, replace them or blow them out, clear the code and see if it comes back. This probably won't work based on what I read, but it's free and worth the shot, considering the cost of the part.

You probably can't get the part from your local parts place; you'll probably need to get it from a dealership. I'm guessing it's going to be one of the 14956 parts on this page, but I'd give them a call, describe what you're looking for, and have your VIN ready. Looks like you can plan on spending $80-90 before shipping. If you don't go to a local dealership, I'd recommend just getting it from Courtesy Parts. Myself and many others here have had good luck with them.

These two threads might be good reading if you haven't gone through them already:

post6553367.html
post6517435.html

[rgk]

The solenoid itself is very easy to replace, but difficult to track down. A few tips:

Be very careful when removing it. It's very easy to break either one of those solenoids, vacuum housing, or hoses.

Remove the old one and write down the exact part number molded into the solenoid.

Apply 12v to the solenoid when removed to makr sure it is stuck.

Search eBay for the exact number. A new solenoid will run you over a hundred bucks.

Make sure there are no vacuum leaks going to the solenoid or the vacuum housing. Pay particular attention to the vacuum hose entering the housing from the rear. It goes down into the intake manifold area. Don't break it or you will be pulling the engine apart.

[jlibed]

Thanks for the info. Reading through all the posts looks like my 01 Pathfinder is basically the same as the QX4. The picture above looks like what I see under the hood.
I called two dealers and they told me the part would run $461...... HUH????? I just need the Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve. They said the part comes with the manifold? So I would have to get the whole thing not the part. Not a big time mechanic so I really do not know what he meant by that. I can pretty much do what Atrudes recommends but I don't have any idea how to check for vacuum leaks or what hose goes to what.
Do you guys think going to a junk yard and getting a part from there would be beneficial?
I am gonna try and search for the part online.
Thanks!

[atraudes]

They had to have been looking at the power valve actuator, not the solenoid you're looking for.

You're looking for something like this



and they're thinking of something like this:



That gold thing is the actuator. Even if you were just looking for the gold bit, you could certainly acquire just it.

[rgk]

If they want to sell him the entire manifold, they might also be throwing the power valve solenoid in with the assembly. You can find just the swirl control solenoid on courtesyparts.com, but it will still run over a hundred bucks. You can try your luck on eBay or at junkyards, but make sure to have the correct number, because some of these are shaped differently than others.

I had a bad swirl control solenoid, and I picked up a replacement from a junkyard. It has worked fine ever since. It ran me $50.

In regards to vacuum, just make sure all of your hoses are intact and not leaking air. Make sure the hose in the back of the manifold (the big black piece of molded plastic that the solenoid is bolted to) is intact. Air leaking through the vacuum hoses sounds like a whistle.

When you remove the solenoid, take a 9v battery and attach a wire to each terminal. Then touch these two wires to the two terminals on the solenoid. You should hear it click. If it doesn't click, it's toast. If it clicks, check to make sure air flows through it the right way. You'll have to look through the Factory Service Manual (FSM) to find out which way the air is supposed to flow. Check out the EC section of the FSM. In the table of contents look for your trouble code (P1131).

You don't have to be a big time mechanic. You can do this.

[jlibed]

Thanks.. I got under the hood and going by the diagram the swirl valve looks like it has a green wire connector attached to it. There is another valve to the left of it that has a brown one. I removed three hoses attached on the one that has the green connector. They were not long at all (no more than 2 inches each). I blew out all three of them an reattached and reset the SES light. I did hear air come out when I pulled the first one off.(is that normal) I drove around after I reset the SES.

I did call the courtesy parts folks and he asked me which one I needed. I had no idea so he gave me two part 14596VB and 1496VA. (they are both labeled Solenoid Valve Assembly) Looking at the diagram he was looking at the VB looks like it is the connector with the brown wire connector and the VA looks like its in the same location like the diagram from the FSM. Am I guessing right?

If I do replace it looks like I will need baby hands to get at the back bolt without disconnecting or removing anything. Unless I buy one of those wrenches that can bend in different directions which a set costs about 80.00. Anyone know what size that bolt is? I'm guessing 10 or 12 mm.

I have pictures of it but I cant attach them.

[rgk]

Yes, you should hear air when you remove a hose. Did the code return after driving around?

Remove the vacuum hoses going to the manifold, then unbolt the manifold and remove it off the engine, and then finally replace the solenoid. This is the easiest way. I believe they are all 10mm bolts.

Remember to label the hoses and their connectors so you put everything back in its place. Don't forget that rear hose.

[jlibed]

This is what I see after removing the cover. I am assuming the swirl control solenoid I might need to replace is the one on the right with the green connector harness??????

If it is I removed the connector and 3 small hoses and blew air threw them.


Could I get a part number off of this? The numbers are upside down but part did not move. K5T46681 0405

[jlibed]

No... SES light has not come back on after I blew air through the three hoses. But I did not drive far (3miles).
Do you know if I have to do anything with those clips just right of the 2 black nipples? Or does that whole thing come off? If I can get at that 1 bolt back there the less I will have to pull apart and remove. I don't want to cause more problems if I mess up putting it back together again.

[rgk]

My bad, from the photos it looks like your 01 does not have a plastic manifold.

I'm also not sure whether that metal is part of the solenoid or whether it comes off.

Sorry. Maybe someone with an 01 can chime in.

You can apply voltage to the solenoid while it's bolted on, though, and listen for a click. You can also then blow through it using a few hoses.

[atraudes]

Is it K5T46681 or K5T46581? It sorta looks like a 5, but you'd know better than me

I'll take a look tonight and see if I can figure out the proper way to get it out and see if there's any other part numbers on it. Based on the pictures I've seen of these things, I'm guessing the metal bracket you're looking at comes out too.

[atraudes]

I just connected some dots and realized the part you want is 14956VA. 14956VB is indeed the solenoid to the left with the brown connector. Just to double-check though...what's the production date of your car? It's on the sticker on the driver's door jam along with the VIN. It'll be a two-digit month, dash four-digit year. I'm guessing it's sometime in late 2000. Before you spring for the new part, apply some voltage to the leads and see if it clicks like rgk recommended. If you get a click, you may not need to drop the change on a new part.

[jlibed]

It is 04/2000. What's the difference or how important is that date? I thought I had a 2001 SE 4wd
I will try the 9V battery and listen for the click.
My SES has not come on after I blew out those hoses yet.(23 miles).

[atraudes]

Ok, 14956VA is definitely the one you would get. The manufacture year and the model year aren't generally the same thing; you still have a 2001. Though, for later reference you have a 2001.0, not a 2001.5. The notable difference between those two is the .5 had some coil pack changes to rectify some problems the .0's had. No big deal for now, just FYI.

The reason the manufacture date is important here is if it was manufactured after 03-2001, you'd be getting a slightly different part.

I have my fingers crossed the code stays away, though it may take a little while to reappear. It'll still be interesting to see if the solenoid clicks or not. You may have fixed the problem the cheap way Got my fingers crossed!

[jlibed]

Thanks so do I. I still have to replace the windshield washer motor. Both front and back do not work. Not to mention the Crack in the rubber boot for the inner tire rod. Oh yeah Can't forget the front wheel hub bearing assembly for the Titan. But I am skeptical about that. I took it in for tire change they ended up replacing the front brakes and machined the rotors. Now it shakes when I brake. They told me the wheel bearings need to be replaced. Funny thing is it did not shake at all when I used the brakes. Only after they replaced the brake shoes and machined the rotors. Maybe I just replace the rotors and see what happens. After all this I should be a certified Nissan Mechanic...............m

[rgk]

You can also run two wires from your car battery and apply voltage that way.

[atraudes]

Cheese and crackers, I just looked at mine and it's not quite the 15 minute job I originally thought it was. It looks like you're meant to undo the three bolts and all of the vacuum lines attached to that bracket and remove the entire bracket with the two solenoids attached. That's not to say you can't, it just means unplugging and detaching a few more things than originally anticipated. Just be careful pulling the lines off as they may be brittle and crack. If you do end up having to do that, I'd buy 10 or so feet of vacuum line and replace as much as you can while you have it apart. Also, detach the bracket from that large hose in the rear last, so you can swivel the bracket and detach it that way. You don't want to force that big hose up. That's the EVAP hose that connects the two valve covers and I can pretty much guarantee the ends will crack if you put too much stress on it and replacing it means pulling the intake runners off

[atraudes]

That shop's diagnosis for the shaking sounds super sketch. If your bearings are causing vibration, you shouldn't be driving it down the block. If the shaking only happens when you're braking, I guarantee you it's the rotors. If it was the bearings you would get the vibration while just driving, especially while turning, and you'd be hearing something. If you only get it while braking, bring it back to them and make them fix it at their expense. Or just replace the rotors yourself. Jealous of the Titan, by the way! My ride before last was an 08 SE and I loved that thing.

How expensive are new wiper motors?? $300 just for the front If the front and back aren't working I'd unplug the harness and make sure you're even getting voltage to them. It may end up being a blown fuse or busted stalk or something.

You'll be expert on this stuff in no time!

[jlibed]

I think it's the pump to get water to the wipers. Not the wiper motor. They both move but when I pull the control for water nothing comes. I just realize there is a big difference in the 2.

[atraudes]

lol, washer motor. Missed that

[jlibed]

Well SES light came back. Looks like I will need to replace the valve.

[jlibed]

Well here are the tools I used


I used the wire cutters to cut the Zipp tie holding the wires so I could move them to get the 3/8 wrench back there. Took some work but managed to lose the bolt enough to take it off with my fingers. Only took off the six hoses leading to both the green and brown solenoids. The needle nose was used to grab the bolt when it fell. Oh ya rightie is not tighty in this case. You have to loosen backwards. Righty is lloosie. If you know what I mean....... in any case replaced the valve and reset the SES light. After about 100 miles will see if it comes back on. Used a new SCV valve from Napa. But it was called an ERG Solenoid.

[jlibed]

Well here are the tools I used


I used the wire cutters to cut the zipp tie holding the wires so I could move them to get the 3/8 wrench back there. Took some work but managed to loosen the bolt enough to take it off with my fingers. Only took off the six hoses leading to both the green and brown solenoids. The needle nose was used to grab the bolt when it fell. Oh ya rightie is not tighty in this case. You have to loosen backwards. Righty is lloosie. If you know what I mean....... in any case replaced the valve and reset the SES light. After about 100 miles will see if it comes back on. Used a new SCV valve from Napa. It was called an ERG Solenoid.