Swaybar, endlinks...givin me a headache

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vonivo
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Modified by vonivo at 3:33 PM 10/31/2008


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ESP
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If you want optimal handling, grab both RSB and endlinks. Believe me, you'll never adjust them!

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dangeris
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I have both and love 'em!

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EzeebMOS3
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I'm interested in getting the front and rear endlinks, how hard is the install though? I'm also debating on waiting for the coilovers, would the endlinks and sway bar work with the coilovers?

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ESP
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EzeebMOS3 wrote:I'm interested in getting the front and rear endlinks, how hard is the install though? I'm also debating on waiting for the coilovers, would the endlinks and sway bar work with the coilovers?
The endlinks are the easiest things to install on the car (other than a new shift knob, of course! haha). The endlinks and swaybar(s) are completely separate from coilovers...so yes, you can use them both simultaneously.

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imdavit
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so today i noticed some scartching noise from the front right of the car. i can feel it when i gas that something is scraping. i jacked up the car and checked out the front right endlink, i saw that it is still there but when i looked at it closely the middle part was loose.

here is a pic

the part that i circled was not fully screwed in. could that be the reason for the noise? because my endlink is loose?

and any clue if the place will charge me again if i bring it back for them to check it. j/w lol ill call and ask if anything.

vonivo
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You can tighten it yourself in 5 seconds. You already have the car jacked so take a 15mm wrench and tighten it against the black / middle part of the endlink and make sure when it is tightened that from the top to the bottom it makes a 90 degree angle right now it isn't and if it were me i would check all 4 to make sure they are at a 90 degree angle if they are not you are going to get alot of binding and noise while under pressure along with loosing the small amount it is supposed to travel or move in the ball socket.

You said you had a shop install these...how much did they charge you?

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imdavit
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40

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EzeebMOS3
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What happend to the price of these endlinks? On the site the rears are only 80 and when added to the cart they go up to $200?? the price currently for front and rear endlinks are $330??

Thought they were cheaper than that?

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Racingline
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EzeebMOS3 wrote:What happend to the price of these endlinks? On the site the rears are only 80 and when added to the cart they go up to $200?? the price currently for front and rear endlinks are $330??

Thought they were cheaper than that?
you probably selected to add the front endlinks when buying the rears, then added the fronts again independantly thus 2 front endlinks and 1 rear ( my assumption) sound like you have extra stuff in your cart.
imdavit wrote:so today i noticed some scartching noise from the front right of the car. i can feel it when i gas that something is scraping. i jacked up the car and checked out the front right endlink, i saw that it is still there but when i looked at it closely the middle part was loose.

here is a pic

the part that i circled was not fully screwed in. could that be the reason for the noise? because my endlink is loose?

and any clue if the place will charge me again if i bring it back for them to check it. j/w lol ill call and ask if anything.
When tightening, be aware that one side has a LEFT HAND THREAD and therefore will be tightened in the opposite direction. The jam nut should be tight against the black. Put one wrench on the black the other on the nut to be tightened.

Also be sure the ball joint is straight when the wheel is straight befroe tightening.

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imdavit
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im gonna mess around with it tomorrow, also i hear sounds when i'm trying to park. when i turn the steering wheel all the way i hear noises any idea why?

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Racingline
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well if the links are loose then they are playing around inside the turnbuckle.

Grab any nut and bolt you have laying around ( matching sizes), put the nut on bolt only enough for thread to be exposed on both sides of the nut. Now wiggle the nut back and forth( not turning it, just wiggling it up and down).

This is the same thing that is happening with your endlinks, only because they are alot longer; the vibration is amplified. Sorta like a 3.2 earth quack; people on the ground likely wont feel it, but people on the 20th floor of a building will.
Modified by Racingline at 7:13 PM 11/2/2008

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imdavit
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my installers told me something about the joint being loose. is this a defect? or its suppose to be like that?

why am i the only one that has this problem? sorry about all the fuss but it feels very weird driving like this, always thinking this could affect my alignment.everyone says its easy to install but noone has ever encountered a problem like this? mayb its because everything is just so adjustable, i just need to find the right measurement for myself i guess because i told them to make it as tight as possible and this is what i ended up with. so im not sure what the problem is.
Modified by imdavit at 7:23 PM 11/2/2008

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Racingline
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if the ball joint can be pulled in and out then yes, however I doubt that is the Case as these are made with THK balljoints ( the very same supplier to nissan for G37 endlinks)

All of the problems you are describing can be caused by having the nuts at the TOP of the joint (the ones you circled) loose. You installers probably did not realize they were left handed threads and "tightened" them the wrong way- which is actually losening them.

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ESP
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Racingline wrote:You installers probably did not realize they were left handed threads and "tightened" them the wrong way- which is actually losening them.
Dude, if your shop doesn't have the sense to figure that much out, they have absolutely no business working on your car. Period.

imdavit, I'm sorry you're having so many problems with this. To the best of my knowledge, nobody on here has had even the remotest of problems with their endlinks. Racingline makes a quality product. Like I said though, if it's something that your shop screwed up...find a new bloody shop!

vonivo
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Racingline wrote:if the ball joint can be pulled in and out then yes, however I doubt that is the Case as these are made with THK balljoints ( the very same supplier to nissan for G37 endlinks)

All of the problems you are describing can be caused by having the nuts at the TOP of the joint (the ones you circled) loose. You installers probably did not realize they were left handed threads and "tightened" them the wrong way- which is actually losening them.
So THK has their balljoints made for them in china? that seems kinda cheap.

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Racingline
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No they make their stuff in Japan, it's stamped right on the black boot.

As for china products.. you'd be surprised how much stuff we all own is made in china. China does not mean cheap. Alot of high quality stuff comes from there. Location has little to do with final quality.

If made in America always meant high quality you'd all own fords! LOL

vonivo
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um....it says China not Japan


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Racingline
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that's not a ball joint or a front endlink

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imdavit
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so guys.......................

i found out the problem.... and.. LOL

it was installed upside down...

i took it apart myself and was like hmmm.. and decided to actually take a look at the instructions from racingline.com.

and yup it was upsidedown all along. what a BIG FAIL.

so i swapped it back and it works like a charm now. i can feel the 10% difference from the steering, its def a lil more stiffer and the turns are amazing now. I can def tell.

thanks god i decided to check it out myself.

edit : i saw the ball joint and it said made in japan.

vonivo
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imdavit wrote:so guys.......................

i found out the problem.... and.. LOL

it was installed upside down...

i took it apart myself and was like hmmm.. and decided to actually take a look at the instructions from racingline.com.

and yup it was upsidedown all along. what a BIG FAIL.

so i swapped it back and it works like a charm now. i can feel the 10% difference from the steering, its def a lil more stiffer and the turns are amazing now. I can def tell.

thanks god i decided to check it out myself.

edit : i saw the ball joint and it said made in japan.
they installed both of them upside down? or just one? make sure when remounting them that you set it so the angle is right so it dosent bind. I would also check the rear for tightness on the bolts and that they are at a 90 degree angle to be on the safe side.

In the future i don't think you should be going back to this shop. 40 bucks to have them mounted isn't a bad price but 40 bucks to have them mounted wrong isn't a deal at all. as you see now you could have done the job in 10min a wheel.


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imdavit
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F*** ABOUT THE RIGHT ANGLE PART. Im pretty sure the fronts are but the back.... UGH DAMN IT. its a pain in the *** to adjust man, gotta take off the wheels and stuff. but im pretty sure its aight i hope.

what happens if its not 90 degrees?

vonivo
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no no no...you don't need to take the wheel off just jack the car up and put a jack stand under the side you lifted for safety then slide underneath ( a pice of cardboard may help you slide underneath easier) this is how i installed my stillin rear sway bar it only took about 15 minutes total.

oh and if its not 90 degrees it will bind when under a load.
Modified by vonivo at 7:37 AM 11/4/2008


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