Post by
Q45tech »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/q45tech-u112.html
Sun Sep 26, 2004 12:53 pm
Front has 2 endlink bushing per side, the rear has 4 per side both have 2 center mount support bushings.
Getting it right is critical as the motion ratio on both bars is divide by 4 [A 4" wheel movement will only move the bar 1.0" if perfectly tight]!
If you add up the compression [give] space [ 1/3 of thickness] on each bushing both sides on the front and rear ..........you see that the rear bar is half as likely to engage for the first 1-1.5" of wheel movement.
As the wheel moves the rubber slop compresses out before the bar receives much [any] force!
The endliks have limited threads that keep the bushing from being tightened too much to over stress them.
Why the bushing life and durometer hardness and just right tightening [till the nut reaches the bottom of the thread] is critical.
Actually I believe the end link bushings only have an as new life of less than 2 years depending on ozone and water exposure heat etc.
Since the front sway bar is 4 times stiffer than the rear 20mm bar it has half the number of endlink bushings to somewhat limit the age errors of the bar becoming more and more sloppy.
Using a metal [0.1"] spacer washer between the front bottom bushing retainer and the nut allows you to compress the bushing limiting the slop at the expense of vibration, impact harhness, and increased front under steer.
After the first inch of body roll the front bar should provide an extra 100-150 lbs per inch [more or less] of stiffness depending on the progressive compliance of the front bushings.
This progressive engagement of the front bar is what creates the progressively increasing under steer as the front roll stiffness goes up and up while the rear is relatively constant and weaker [stiffness]........remember the rears 8 endlink bushings and much littler [weaker] bar.
The springs are fixed rate with a perfect ratio based on weight balance [146 front 123 rear pound per inch]..........the front bar is the understeer Devil...............way too stiff if coupled tightly but decent with the correct new bushings and exact tightened correct slop.
Hope I'm being clear.
My Q has the 28 mm [T and A] front bar with the washer in place I can feel the difference with a 1/4 turn of the nut. That's how critical exactness is [why they only threaded the end link to limit over zealous techs]. That 1/4 turn probably changes the roll stiffness by 5% in the small 1" rolls and that changes the understeer oversteer ratio by about 1.25-2%...........per 1/4 turn till the bushing is compressed.
Wish I could think of a way to adjust inside the car on the fly to have neutral in the dry and no oversteer in the wet.