Sway bar bushings

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rover3l
Posts: 514
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 3:22 am
Car: 1998 Q45, 2000Q45 Anniversary, 1965 Rover 3L,

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I fitted by tension rods and upper links without problems but had some problems with sway bar bushings.

1. I can't seem to get the split ends of the bushings to meet when I tighten up the bracket. Is there any special technique I should have used.

2. On the sway bar ends, I can't tell from the pack of bushes that Joe sent me which are the ones to use. There are two bushes with a smaller diameter lip which seem to fit but I only recieved 2 of these instead of 4. What should these look like3. This weekend I was going to try to fit the rears but I seem to have about 10 bushes of approximately the same size that he sent me. I think some are for the struts?

Sorry for the very dumb questions but I would appreciate any advice


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rover3l
Posts: 514
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 3:22 am
Car: 1998 Q45, 2000Q45 Anniversary, 1965 Rover 3L,

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ok fixed. I took them off again cleaned the rust off the sway bay and greased the bushings

Q45tech
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Posts: 14296
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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Front has 2 endlink bushing per side, the rear has 4 per side both have 2 center mount support bushings.

Getting it right is critical as the motion ratio on both bars is divide by 4 [A 4" wheel movement will only move the bar 1.0" if perfectly tight]!

If you add up the compression [give] space [ 1/3 of thickness] on each bushing both sides on the front and rear ..........you see that the rear bar is half as likely to engage for the first 1-1.5" of wheel movement.

As the wheel moves the rubber slop compresses out before the bar receives much [any] force!

The endliks have limited threads that keep the bushing from being tightened too much to over stress them.

Why the bushing life and durometer hardness and just right tightening [till the nut reaches the bottom of the thread] is critical.

Actually I believe the end link bushings only have an as new life of less than 2 years depending on ozone and water exposure heat etc.

Since the front sway bar is 4 times stiffer than the rear 20mm bar it has half the number of endlink bushings to somewhat limit the age errors of the bar becoming more and more sloppy.

Using a metal [0.1"] spacer washer between the front bottom bushing retainer and the nut allows you to compress the bushing limiting the slop at the expense of vibration, impact harhness, and increased front under steer.

After the first inch of body roll the front bar should provide an extra 100-150 lbs per inch [more or less] of stiffness depending on the progressive compliance of the front bushings.

This progressive engagement of the front bar is what creates the progressively increasing under steer as the front roll stiffness goes up and up while the rear is relatively constant and weaker [stiffness]........remember the rears 8 endlink bushings and much littler [weaker] bar.

The springs are fixed rate with a perfect ratio based on weight balance [146 front 123 rear pound per inch]..........the front bar is the understeer Devil...............way too stiff if coupled tightly but decent with the correct new bushings and exact tightened correct slop.

Hope I'm being clear.

My Q has the 28 mm [T and A] front bar with the washer in place I can feel the difference with a 1/4 turn of the nut. That's how critical exactness is [why they only threaded the end link to limit over zealous techs]. That 1/4 turn probably changes the roll stiffness by 5% in the small 1" rolls and that changes the understeer oversteer ratio by about 1.25-2%...........per 1/4 turn till the bushing is compressed.

Wish I could think of a way to adjust inside the car on the fly to have neutral in the dry and no oversteer in the wet.

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rover3l
Posts: 514
Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 3:22 am
Car: 1998 Q45, 2000Q45 Anniversary, 1965 Rover 3L,

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Thank you now I appreciate how critical it is to do this right. When I received the pack of bushings from Joe (note mine is an active model) I was puzzled because only 2 bushings seem to have a concentric lip which seems to help them locate in the front say bar end link. All the other busings are smaller diameter with smaller diameter holes but now lip so I am not sure whether these are for the end links or not. The part numbers and description of everything he sent me are as follows

Here is the front: 54613-60U10 ASR 2 BUSH - STABILIZER V05A 2 4.38 8.76 56112-V0100 ASR 2 BUSH STABILIZER V05B 8 2.24 4.48 56112-A0100 ASR 2 BUSHING V05B 5 2.13 4.26 54468-66U00 2 ROD TENSION 0 87.36 174.72 54525-66U20 ASR 1 LINK COMPL-FRT SU J31 1 94.90 94.90 54524-66U20 ASR 1 LINK COMPL-FRONT J31 2 94.90 94.90

Here is the rear: 54613-04F01 ASR 2 BUSHING RUBBER V05A 2 3.24 6.48 54612-01P00 ASR 6 BUSHING-SHOCK V05B 9 2.18 13.08 Your component list shrinks due to the fact that your car is active. Your total would be $412.04 with ground shipping. If you have any other questions please feel free to ask. Thanks again Dave! -Joe Infiniti of Scottsdale 1.888.216.5328


Q45tech
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Posts: 14296
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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You need the parts blow up pictures to determine where the 2 old ball bushings go..........it believe the odd ones are the bottom rear on each side

XLower ARMX!!!XSWAY BARY


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