Have you wee been in one? And it's not that much weight and I feel you bit I just love being under the hood that's what i want to go to school for.simmode1 wrote:I'm not really a big fan of the RB20, but I know some guys love them. Seems like alot of extra weight to carry around for the same power potential as the SR.
But seriously, if I was still interested in sticking with S-chassis, I'd save up for the S15 SR. But thats just because I want a 6spd so bad. But screw it. I'm just gonna buy a 350Z instead. I'm tired of dealing with swaps and crap.
How's the power in them things! Lol. And true but I like the sound of inline 6 just so nasty! And in a sense the rb20 and sr are the same engine besides the two cylinders.simmode1 wrote:Nah, been in some RB25 S14's though. They're nose heavy, but it doesn't seem to be a big problem to anybody I know. The RB20 would be lighter, so it's probably not a big deal for the average drifter/streetcar.
I just like really lightweight yet tough engines that sit as far behind the strut towers as possible and it's hard to find another 330lbs engine tougher and simpler than the SR.
simmode1 wrote:How was the power in those rb25 s14's? They were rape your face fast. Both were owned/daily driven by local shop owners and allegedly had at least 500hp. They were not cheap to build AT ALL. Easily $20k in parts and labor invested. And they weren't even show cars... just some really clean koukis with OEM aero.
simmode1 wrote:Honestly, I never really looked closely enough to compare/contrast the pros & cons of the RB25 vs the 1JZ.
But I'm all about simplicity, meaning I'd prefer to only swap in engines that are MEANT to be in a particular car. It'll take less money and effort to sell your 240 and swap a 1JZ into an SC300 than it would any S-chassis. Hell, you could buy an SC300 and turbo the stock 2JZ engine. Want an LSx? Go buy a Vette. They're light & getting cheaper. But some ppl like ice skating uphill though.
I can't really advise any more than this. Discussion is becoming kinda circular.
Lobo240sx wrote:Whichever engine you decide to go with, get ready to rebuild it sooner or later. Most of these engines are 15-20+ years old now. If you decide to go SR I'd get a S15 engine since they are newer, or find a low compression s13 long block and rebuild it.
Riding in 500+hp RB's will rip your face off.
Riding in a 600+hp Sequential Turbo GT35 feeding a GT42-76 Z31 300zx 2JZ swap will relocate things in your brain you thought you never had lol, priceless..
The rb is just as easy as the sr. (talking about the rb20 btw) but I like challenges but not to my wallet so idk just yetHawtShawt wrote:SR swaps are pretty easy to do, plus the kind of power you can make reliably is nice. jz swaps can get pricey, same thing goes for rb's. However when you're putting an engine in a car that came out of the same kind of chassis, it will be easier on you and your wallet.
You made the thread to ask, not to tell people.....Iball20 wrote:The rb is just as easy as the sr. (talking about the rb20 btw) but I like challenges but not to my wallet so idk just yetHawtShawt wrote:SR swaps are pretty easy to do, plus the kind of power you can make reliably is nice. jz swaps can get pricey, same thing goes for rb's. However when you're putting an engine in a car that came out of the same kind of chassis, it will be easier on you and your wallet.
simmode1 wrote:Iball, you seem fixated on the RB series. Check out some build threads by follow owners around here to get a sense of what's involved.
s-chassis-build-thread-list-t441933.html
Totally forgot about this stickie until just recently...
I see where your coming from.mechanicalmoron wrote:Ain't no raised voice here, unless it's yours. I'm just saying that you seem to be giving yourself advice, instead of listening to others.
Pardon me if I got it wrong.
*edit* and I'm not saying you shouldn't want an RB..... I've never seen one IRL, but they're pretty sweet looking, and getting past the strait-G aspect of a straight-6 isn't easy..... but yeah, you have to do a lot of cutting, welding, aligning, wiring, etc.....
How do you like your sr? I've cane to realize that I should stop dreaming for right nowblkvrtswp wrote:I would love to put a jet-engine turbine in my 240SX. Why don't I? Not enough money. You need to make a chart of the COST for each engine choice, then see what you can afford. It is pointless to say "I like the sound of an RB" if you do not have the funds to do it. I think you are seriously underestimating the cost for all these swaps.
Also, not to disparage anyone's favorite engine, but the RB20 is a dead dog IMO. Unless you get one for free, forget about it - not enough power, not enough upgrade options, not enough parts available, too much bother for such an old old engine.
Let's start with SR:
SR20DET into S13:
complete s13 engine set with wiring = $1800
engine shipping unless you can pick it up = $150
FMIC, BOV, Piping, intake filter = $400
Clutch kit = $250
Fuel pump, boost gauge, oil press gauge = $150
Downpipe, test pipe, cat back exhaust = $300
Minimum = $3050, you do install labor and do all the wiring. Add $1000 for S15 engine.
Someone else will have to provide RB20, RB25, RB26, 1JZ, 2JZ and LS1 costs.
Dreaming is wonderful, but reality is more fun.
Thanks I apperciate it.sancosys wrote:I think Im about $7,000 including the car for my VQ swap. Its really not that bad if you have any ability to read a wiring diagram. I picked up my motor and trans for $2200, customs motor and trans mounts about $350. Drive shaft about $300. UP Rev Flash was around $400 - $500 (cant recall at the moment) and then add some misc parts. I do have a lot of extra parts from the donor car(s) and 240's just to be safe. Not exactly sure what the guy meant by 'hotwire' gauges so don't let that stuff scare you. If you plan ahead it can come out clean and cost efficient for what your trying to do. The other cost for me comes into play because I ran a bunch of braided lines and am making my own body harness, that kind of stuff also adds to how long it takes. Not really a motor on your list but gives a example. Hope that helps AND
Troll Time:
This was so NOT ordinary its all over the internet from the dawn of swap history.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Best+240sx+motor+swap
RB20's are stupid. Why do you need that extra weight for about the same dang power. If your doing that because of the sound you will hate life and wish you had a different motor. Whats the point of a 2.0 RB? Hey if you like spending more money to go slow by all means....
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Really though its all up to you, see what works best for your power level, budges and future goals.
Aaron
OM3GA wrote:Take your time.
Do it once and do it right.