Swap Done, Running, But Problems

Post by **rico05** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

Well, the clutch ain't stock:) And the motor sounds nuts w/o exhaust (drove it home with none). Turbo spools well, and the SS clutch line and removed dampener is GREAT. BUT there are 3 problems:

1) Hood won't close right. Any comments? We looked and couldn't figure anything out. A simple fix I am sure, but I would like to avoid hacking up my hood if possible.

2) It seems the coolant hard line that runs under the intake manifold is cracked. We removed the line that runs to the TB and put a nipple on it, but it seems that the line has a small crack, running for 10 minutes gets a 4" diameter puddle under the car. We are thinking JB Weld as we don't really want to remove the mani to get a real welder in there.

3) Below ~3500RPM the motor bogs and suptters and barely pulls. Above, MY GOD. I LOVE BOOST! Any thoughts? I am going to check the IC piping tomorrow and see. Also, we think the motor may be intermittendly running on 3 cylinders. More on that after we play tomorrow.

And here is the money shot:

Post by **USDM_OneVia** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

Number 1.... probably misaligned on the hinges... take some time and line it all up right.

Number 2.... you could jbweld it for the time being, but I wouldn't trust it. Probably will have to take if off and reweld it or at least replace it.

Number 3... timing is stupid retarded and/or you don't have your knock sensor hooked up. Check your ecu for codes.

Joe

hit me up on AIM, hybridsol.

Post by **slw240sx** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

me and joe are just goin to take turns since we almost always agree on the advice we give.

Post by **rico05** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

Thanks guys. Joe discussed with me about the knock sensor. Total duh. We found 3 plugs on the passengers side that were not plugged into anything. We concluded that one was for the knock sensor (other 2 are for a/c we guessed?). I'll get to it in the morning light. Then off to get the line welded:(

Post by **rico05** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

Here are the rest of the picsRico's Gallery

And she fired up and idled at 850 RPM steady off her first crank.

Post by **float_6969** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

You need to plug that opening in the drives side valve cover that was a fitting for the PCV system. When you are off boost that will be like a big vaccuum leak and the car will run like hell. Either that or plug the opening in the back of the mani that the PCV valve screws into. I wouldn't recommend that long term though...

Post by **rico05** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

So I need to plug that valve cover vent then? K. And where exactly is that knock sensor? I looked with my flashlight , but I couldn't see it;)

Post by **float_6969** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

Yea, plug that hole. Or if you want to do it right, run a line from there to the suction side of the turbo where you have a big bolt plugging the opening. The knock sensor is under the intake mani, between the #2&3 cylnders. It's attached to the block.

Post by **240_Keyy** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

I am sure that plugging that hole isn't gonna do diddly poop, however, we do have the little dealie that goes there and we can rout it back into the intake thingie if it makes you happy

I don't think we hooked up the knock sensor, now that I think about it, but the computer isn't throwing any codes, so all appears to be well...

It sounds fooking great above 3500rpm

Post by **NeedCAforS13** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

float_6969 wrote:You need to plug that opening in the drives side valve cover that was a fitting for the PCV system. When you are off boost that will be like a big vaccuum leak and the car will run like hell. Either that or plug the opening in the back of the mani that the PCV valve screws into. I wouldn't recommend that long term though...

^lol ryan. its the crankcase vent. it is NOT metered air (measured by the afm) so it doesn't matter if you plug that back into anything! mine is just hanging out the bottom of the car (same way Ray had his, and Paul had his...)

the knock sensor is green and tucked waaaay up there under the intake manifold. its a bit<h to see and get to...

Sean

Post by **rico05** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

Yeah, I thought that it was just a vent, but I didn't want to openly question the greatness of teh Ryan;)

Yeah, I am jealous that Keith got to hear it run from far off. Inside, it was jsut BBBBLLLLAAAAPPPPPP WWWWHHHOOOOSSSSHHHHHHHHHHH BBBBLLLAAAAPPPPP

I even tried to listen to the stereo. Heh. Right.

Oh yeah, dumb question: I picked up some Bar's Leaks Liquid Aluminum to try and stop the leak. Think this will work? No possibility of it clogging the turbo coolant line is there?

Post by **rico05** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

Ok, looked at knock sensor and it is plugged in. Here is a little better description of the problem:At partial throttle, it pluss pretty clean and no problems. If I gun it at anything under 3500-4000 RPM, it bogs BAD and backfires. Above, it pulls like a champ no matter what the amount of throttle input. Any more ideas? And where in the FSM (or a link to a thread) can I find how to set timing. That was the nice thing about rotary, no damn timing issues.

Post by **float_6969** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

But it's going to act like a vaccumm leak when you are off boost. That not only ventilates the crankcase, but the head. If you pull that line off the back of the PCV valve and blow through it, air will come out of the other side of the valve cover. I've had that line blow off on my car and the car acted like it had a big vaccuum leak. When I put it back on, it quit. The only thing that might be different is that my rings are in horrible shape.

Post by **rico05** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

So once again, I jsut plug it off? What did you use? I am going to pull codes tomorrow.

Post by **Notchbackca** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

you don't want to feed blowby into your manifold... get a catch can remove the valve and seal the hole

Post by **NeedCAforS13** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

like I said originally.. makes NO difference what so ever if that hole is open or closed... the PCV valve is a one way valve Ryan, and doesn't care if its opening into the manifold or the outside air! Mine is set up exactly like Ray and Paul had theirs (and Dee didn't mention it when I asked him about it either IIRC):)

Sean

Post by **float_6969** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

I guess it doesn't matter. We can keep arguing about it, but it won't get us anywhere. Regardless, he needs to either get a line hooked up so that he's not blowing crap on the valve cover, or get a catch can. I've got one and it works well.

Post by **slw240sx** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

there is no oneway valve on the side he has open, he needs to plug off the intake manifold port, then run hoses off each valve cover into a TEE then to a catch can, somthing cheap simple will do. then run that into the intake after the MAf. if your gion to do it then at least do it right...

get a catch can in there, make one they are cheap... check out autospeed.com for DIY ideas.!

Post by **rico05** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

Ok, ran the diagnostic. Codes 13 and 34 (water temp and knock). The water temp sensor seems to ahve corrosion of the terminals. I assusme that I can just clean this. The knock sensor is plugged into the harness that runs off the battery and starter and such. When I get my harness, it had 2 wires that were without a connector. The wires were black and white. We wired them to a plug and run it to the connector below the passengers side fuse block to a connector that had a yellow/red anda yellow/ blue (running the black to y/b and the white to y/b) Any comments? I can take a pic if necessary.

EDIT: I tried to scrape off some of the crud on the temp sensor then ran the diagnostic again. The knock sensor stopped comming up, but the temp sesnor came back again. I busted out the multimeter and at ~80degrees ambient, I got .22 kilo-ohms (kOmega) So, where can I get a new temp sensor? Or can I pull it out and clean it and that amy work? Grrrr......

Further edit: Tried to get another reading because the last one really wasn't steady. Now, I can;t get it to level off. I think i may be just uber corroded. How do I get the sensor out?

Post by **XtremeHKS** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

slw240sx wrote:there is no oneway valve on the side he has open, he needs to plug off the intake manifold port, then run hoses off each valve cover into a TEE then to a catch can, somthing cheap simple will do. then run that into the intake after the MAf. if your gion to do it then at least do it right...

get a catch can in there, make one they are cheap... check out autospeed.com for DIY ideas.!

Make sure you have all of your vacuum lines on properly.

Post by **240_Keyy** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

it isn't vacuum, we only have 3 vacuum lines on the motor and all of them are good (FPR, butterfly, and WG solenoid)

Post by **rico05** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

Double checked all of those and they are fine. I am still getting 13 from the ECU though.

Post by **float_6969** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

1987 Nissan Pulsar SE DOHC.... get a new H20 temp sensor.

Post by **rico05** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 4:55 pm

Cool. Thanks. Is this a common thing to crap out?

Swap Done, Running, But Problems

Swap Done, Running, But Problems

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