whiterps13 wrote:A good place to start is the coilovers on full hard (assuming your on the track) and reducing the dampeners from there. Experiment, try differant setups, and see what you like. Also, if you have adjustable swaybars, tune the rear to full stiff and the front to full soft to help induce oversteer.
This is wrong, and this is a mistake I see everyone making. There is no advantage from setting your "coilovers" on full stiff and assuming that harder is better.
When people say "adjust their coilovers," they mean adjust the dampers. Having hard dampers does not mean that your spring rates increase, but it means that resistance to suspension motion increases.
A car suspension is an vibrating system, and will respond to inputs (road irregularities, cornering displacements, etc.) by moving up and down, obviously enough. The entire goal of the damper is to manage that oscillation, and eliminate it vehicle use allows for it. Every virbrating system has a variable called "damping ratio," which quantifies the strength of the damper in relation to the springs and both the sprung and unsprung masses.
If your damping ratio is between 0 and 1, the system is called underdamped, which means that for a given disturbance, the wheel will keep oscillating for a short period of time before returning to its neutral position. Cars that are underdamped feel "bouncy," and are unpredictable and floaty in corners.
If your damping ratio is exactly one, the system is called critically damped. This means that in response to a given disturbance, the suspension will compress once, and then return to it's neutral position as quickly as possible WITHOUT vibrating. This is what you want to achieve for a race car. You want your damping ratio to be as close to 1 as possible, and your suspension's natural frequency to be around 1Hz or 2Hz. Cars that are critically damped feel stable over a wide range of road surface qualities and in most cornering conditions.
If your damping ratio is greater than one, the system is called overdamped. This means that the resistance to motion of the suspension is excessive, and that for a given disturbance, the suspension will compress once, and then return to it's original position without vibrating, but this process will take longer for an overdamped system than a critically damped system. Cars that are overdamped feel as though they skip over road imperfections, and change pitch and yaw unpredictably in response to road conditions.
By assuming that setting your dampers to full stiff is the best thing to do and then softening the dampers accordingly, you automatically make your car overdamped, and cannot tell when your car is reaching a critically damped state.
The way I'd adjust my dampers is to set them to full soft, and then gradually increase damper strength until the car JUST stops bouncing over road gaps, and bouncing on turn-in or turn-out. This ensures that you've reached the point where your suspension is critically damped, or underdamped to critically damped. This is where suspension function is the best.