Does it matter if I daily drive either of them for the next 4 months??? about 10 miles a day roughly.BigMACKenzie wrote:They are both good coil overs. I read recently that the JIC S15 uses the teins for both drift and TA. If I remember c orrectly they are using 8kg/9kg front/rear settings respectively for drifting and 12kg/14kg for time attack. To me this says you get a better TA setup from the teins bc as you stated, the tanabes don't go that stiff. On the other hand will you really be driving that hard? I highly recommend the TEAS or EDFC components in either case bc they are a little pricey (when added up with the cost of your coilovers) but the pimp factor and ease of use more than make up for the extra cost.
No offense but, if you can't help don't post mate.simmode1 wrote:You know this thread is gon get locked, right?
Roger that!!!BigMACKenzie wrote:thats why i say get the edfc or teas, you can switch from DD spongy to TA stiffness in a snap (just put it in park and hit teh button) gets rid of the hassle of having to crawl under the wheel well with the spcl tool everytime you want to switch back and forth.
Unless he's going to be changing spring rates frequently (which I HIGHLY doubt), there is no real reason to change damping settings all the time. Generally, damping level should be tuned to the spring rate and left there. I don't know why companies offer so many adjustment levels on their dampers. It's probably so they only have to use one shock for multiple spring rates and chassis designs.BigMACKenzie wrote:They are both good coil overs. I read recently that the JIC S15 uses the teins for both drift and TA. If I remember c orrectly they are using 8kg/9kg front/rear settings respectively for drifting and 12kg/14kg for time attack. To me this says you get a better TA setup from the teins bc as you stated, the tanabes don't go that stiff. On the other hand will you really be driving that hard? I highly recommend the TEAS or EDFC components in either case bc they are a little pricey (when added up with the cost of your coilovers) but the pimp factor and ease of use more than make up for the extra cost.
Sorry, that was just a conditioned response to a question that gets asked almost everyday. But since you were cool about it, this might help you...puchuco wrote:No offense but, if you can't help don't post mate. Peace to you!
Gladly appreciated !simmode1 wrote:
Sorry, that was just a conditioned response to a question that gets asked almost everyday. But since you were cool about it, this might help you...
http://www.240sxforums.com/for...67756
you got that right. Adjustable shocks are made for using with different spring rates without blowing up.nissanman04 wrote:
Unless he's going to be changing spring rates frequently (which I HIGHLY doubt), there is no real reason to change damping settings all the time. Generally, damping level should be tuned to the spring rate and left there. I don't know why companies offer so many adjustment levels on their dampers. It's probably so they only have to use one shock for multiple spring rates and chassis designs.
QFT! Other than adjusting for different grip levels, I agree 100%nissanman04 wrote:
Unless he's going to be changing spring rates frequently (which I HIGHLY doubt), there is no real reason to change damping settings all the time. Generally, damping level should be tuned to the spring rate and left there.
It's called marketing. "Sure you can go buy those Koni's for 600.00, but they only have one adjustment, and you have to get out of the car and do it manually. Now with our super tyt3 JDM dorifto units here; we have umpteen adjusters and knobs, along with in car damping adjustment. So you can adjust on the fly, as soon as the mood to dorifto strikes you. Will that be cash or credit?"nissanman04 wrote: I don't know why companies offer so many adjustment levels on their dampers. It's probably so they only have to use one shock for multiple spring rates and chassis designs.
That is probably due to the linear valving, and your spring rates. My Koni's are valved (Digressive, not Linear) in the front for 1000 lbs springs, I run 700, and 450 in the rear, with a 1 1/8th tubular front bar,and no rear bar. The car rides stiff, but it is no where near harsh, and that's with the shocks set where I run them at for AutoX. I would have no problems DD on them. They are down right passive when set at full soft, given the spring rates I run.B-TownSX wrote:. As for the stiffness, it's ridiculous for DD even at it's lowest setting.
I think it's cool to stop and pop my hood and trunk to adjust my valving.B-TownSX wrote:I like having the EDFC when I decide to go for a spirited drive, and it's pretty cool to show off. I have the S13 hatch and I find it more convenient then pulling over and adjusting the dampering by hand. It was well worth the $1900 I spent for it.
I think he changed his screen name, it's JimBob now or something, I forget what it is. EDIT: I think it is "JOE" now.musashin wrote:Just ask Kamin [a moderator]
I doubt he said they where the best coil over on the market. Maybe that they where the best in their price range. And even if he did say that they where THE BEST regardless of price(Which I HIGHLY doubt he did) that OPINION is HIGHLY debatable.musashin wrote: He said that the Tanabe Pro 7's are the best coilover on the market to date.
musashin wrote:He ..... a LS1 S14 Kouki, by the way. Badass.