surge or BOV sound

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blckkat
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Car: 95 240sx

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okay guys I've been messing this the damn Gredddy type RS BOV for over a month pulling springs, adjusting switching back and forth between open and recirc.....can anyone tell me does the sucker flutter and that's just the sound it makes, or is it not operating correctly and it's surge I'm hearing. darkforcejackel on ka-t.org had the same thing (we both run an IAP kit) is this the sound it's supposed to make:http://media.putfile.com/240SX...l-Lot

I can pull the recirc hose and rev the motor at idle and feel a small puff of air so I know its not stuck, if I run only one spring it will leak completely at idle. the one time I got it to run open atmosphere I had only one spring and set it fully light and I'd hear one big puff come out, but the second I run it recirculated or even just put the recirc fitting on and run it open it does the flutter. I've tried 2 separte vacum source (one under the TB and the FPR line) and neither made a difference. this damn thing is driving me insane and no one seems to know if its surge or not.


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GEO
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getting closer to what my sounds like.. straight flutter.

blckkat
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seems everyone I talk to tha has this identical problem is running an IAP kit. coincedence?

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GEO
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where's marc?

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Fenvy
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on my sr20det, first it came with the greddy and it fluttered like a *****

I don't think it is faulty adjustment, I just think it is how it is

98240
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I have the greddy type rs bov and it flutters also. I dont know if it is compressor surge or not. It seems when i am in low boost it doesnt flutter much but then when i get to 10psi it flutters alot. I cant get the file on putfile to open so i dont know if it is like mine.

chmercer
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dunno if this helps but my stuff is kindof similar so i thought id throw it in. my greddy type s (not rs) does the general woosh on my iap manifold. no flutter, cant hear any surge.

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f1seb
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I also have the IAP kit with the Greddy Type-RS BOV.And yes it also flutters. It'd be nice if Marc came and explained this and tell us if it's just how it's supposed to be or should we be getting worried.

ceniack
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i'm having a smilar sound when i installed my old school ARC bov i got on e-bay, can't tell if it is compressor surge or not, but sounds exactly like that first video

ceniack
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oh, i am also only running 5psi, so that may make a difference, i have tried to adjust the BOV as much as i can (had the set screw completely out)

anyone know if some of these springs are interchangeable?

blckkat
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well I emailed Marc about it and linked him to this thread. so hopefully he'll either post the answer here, just reply to my email, or call me.

blckkat
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what a shocker I never heard from Marc anybody else wanna try?

s14noob
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Car: 97 240sx LE 5-speed

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wow, that just sounds horrible. did you buy a replica greddy bov or an authentic greddy one? it should sound something like this

http://www.935motorsports.com/...8.MPG

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GEO
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Also on the BOV, we have found this to be the best solution: Loosen the set nut and then backing the set screw all the way until it is loose and wiggling around. Then turn it back into the hole until you feel it hit the top of the plunger (do it by hand and you will feel it), once it hits the plunger, turn ½ turn more then tighten the set nut back down and you should be golden.

Try that out and elt me know if ti works. I havn't tried this yet

thats the solution MARC gave me.

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Chezedik
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You mean the hiccup?

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GEO
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any luck?
Modified by GEO at 5:20 AM 5/28/2006

Florida240sx
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I installed my kit. Drove for a day test driving. Perfect whoosh sound. Next day and thereafter I can't get it again. According to Marc when I talekd to him last year, the BOV is very sensitive. He has to readjust his every couple days.

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GEO
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Thats dumb if thats true, why would he put it in the worest spot.

Florida240sx
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I'm not him now am I.That's the explanation I got from him last year.

RPS1392
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if its any condolence I realized I had mine hooked up wrong (no vacum source to open the actual valve) I have an Apexi dual chamber. Felt like a total *** when I figured that out. Before it was hooked up right, all i got was the elusive fluttering. Hooked it up right and its like a shaken up soda bottle being opened quick. Best analogy I could think of...

blckkat
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yup Marc gave me the same explanation as you Geo. its never made any difference. i've adjusted it to every damn setting on the thing with every spring combination. I'm done with it, I'm just gonna hook up a DSM BOV for $10.

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GEO
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its got the same flange? I think I might go with a RFL.

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AZhitman
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Mine was doing the same thing... I'll keep all posted when I get it back put together.

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DammitBobby
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The person who fabricated my IC piping told me to order a HKS Type 1 bypass valve. He has worked on a lot of different turbo setups and has never had problems using HKS. I like the HKS because it has 2 ports one is used for signal the other is assistant port that you leave hooked up for normal driving. If you want you can disconnect the assistant port at the track. The other thing I like about it is that it can come with different springs. I never had a problem with it and never adjusted it. Only problem is that not everybody sells that version of the HKS bypass valve. Seems like there are to many people with Greddy RS that have flutter problems. Sounds more like a design flaw then everybodies setup.

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GEO
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Will the Greddy Type S fit on the same flange and be better off?

darkforcejackal
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The Greddy flange will fit Type-S or Type-RS, so they're compatible and i've done it to prove it.

When I tried a Type-S on my car and it opened (but stalled like a madman), I decided to give the RS another go because mine just would NOT open. It worked. I had it open and blowing off to atmosphere. One of the best sounding BOV's ever (Type-RS), had both springs in, using the vent piece, about halfway tightened was my sweet spot as I recall. To make things better, it could open at only 1 PSI if you wanted it to. To recirc, it seems to like just the 1 spring on a loose setting. But it will still "flutter". I think this is mostly, if not all, surge.

Thing is, the idle felt like fluctuating on me when it was vented and sounding great. More stalling stopping at lights. I eventually decided to remove it for driveability concerns because I do not have an SAFC for correcting the idle falling.

So it's like you're losing both ways. The IAP BOV spot is not fun to get at either. It also gets wet in rain, and mine is covered decently well with the OEM splash guard.

But anyways where i'm at now has the car happy - BOV is out of the equation (lol). I will slowly try to experiment some more with venting.

My theory is that the recirculation piece (and perhaps the rubber hose diameter) is just not big enough to flow enough of the blow off air fast enough. Because otherwise when I recirc it should still "woosh", just sounding a bit more "cushioned".

I'm gonna try venting with the recirc piece to test this theory.

A lot of work to get a blow off valve working!

To all the other IAP guys, please keep sharing all your experiences and hopefully we can find a happy way of setting this up for all of us.

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GEO
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Yeh I know, that spot that they have it in is not fun. I was figuring, the Type-S but reciruclated.


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