SuperTech Synthetic 10W30, any good?

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Jesda
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Im thinking about using the SuperTech (Wal-Mart) full-synthetic 10w30 for the winter on my Q, changing every 1900 miles. I consider my duty cycle "very severe" with extremely short trips (less than a mile).

For seven quarts, its just under $21. Add $5.99 for a Bosch Premium filter. Any opinions on it?

-Jesda


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PalmerWMD
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Its a group III oil, a lot of quality for the Buck.But if the best oil for the money is your goal you cant beat Chevron Supreme.Its a group II+ oil.Nearly as good a lubestock as the low end syns such as super Tech Syn.

Good additive package and only 1.14/qt.

Fred...

PS: Bosch filters arent as good as they used to be ( changed production lines a couple years ago. Even tho the OEM filter for your car has dropped a bit in quality too, its about same price as Bosch...

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GoinBoostYey
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I just switched over to amsoil. Its nice.

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Jesda
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Lots of misinformation out there, these folks cant seem to agree on who makes SuperTech for Wal-Mart:http://boats.gmp.co.nz/messages/192398.html

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PalmerWMD
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I used to know who made it but I forgot, I dont think it was Pennzoil's refinery however.

Eitehr way we do know for sure its a group III.

Fred..

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PalmerWMD
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GoinBoostYey wrote:I just switched over to amsoil. Its nice.
Group IV base stock very stable.

Fred..

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Bubba1
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Mind if I ask a dumb question? what's wrong with the oil that you're using now?

You're talking about changing your oil every 1900 (?!) miles, which is maybe 3 times more often than Nissan recommends,. As long as you're using the correct grade/viscosity as recommended by the manufacturer, why does it matter whether you use a grade 2 vs grade 3, or what brand. I've run all of my cars on old fashioned fossil (non-synthetic) oil, following the manufactuer's instructions. Never once have I had any engine problems on any car I've ever owned. And there were years that I comuted less than a mile.

I'll be disappointed if I get a "my baby is worth it" response. IMHO changing synthetic oil that often, is simply wasting money.

Fred, comments?

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PalmerWMD
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Bubba1 wrote:Mind if I ask a dumb question? what's wrong with the oil that you're using now?

You're talking about changing your oil every 1900 (?!) miles, which is maybe 3 times more often than Nissan recommends,. As long as you're using the correct grade/viscosity as recommended by the manufacturer, why does it matter whether you use a grade 2 vs grade 3, or what brand. I've run all of my cars on old fashioned fossil (non-synthetic) oil, following the manufactuer's instructions. Never once have I had any engine problems on any car I've ever owned. And there were years that I comuted less than a mile.

I'll be disappointed if I get a "my baby is worth it" response. IMHO changing synthetic oil that often, is simply wasting money.

Fred, comments?
There is some validity to this arguement it often comes up.As a matter of fdact non syn oils are currently the best they ever been.All Shell products are group 2+ as is Pennzoil, Quaker State and Chevron Supreme.

Much has been typoed about teh advantage sof syn oils over regular oils and they are real but it also depends on your application.This means your climate, driving habits and engine go into this equation.

Certain Toyota engines are terribly hard on oil and running the dealer recommended 5w-30 Dino at schedule 2 intervals has led to many disasters.

Some engines like the GM 3.8 V6 w/o the SC are easy on oil.If you live in a hot climate but your manufacturers tells you to use a thin oil like a 5w-30, that would be a good rrason to make that 5w-30 a syn , as syns have better hi temp shear resistance than same viscosity non syns.

If you drive hard you might want to upgrade too, or if you do extended drain intervals, a Mobil1 10w-30 is hard to beat for the $$.

Its all a trade off and if you use a good dino and support it with smart viscosity choices you can get a lot of protection for the money.

Fred..


nametakennow
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Every time I read one of Fred's posts on this oil stuff I'm getting more of it, but I still don't get a lot of what you're saying, lol.

Anyways... kinda leads me to a question... from what you just said, Mobil 1 synthetic in a 10W-30 is good for somewhat rough lives (say, lots of short trips with occasional runs through back roads and a foot that likes to accellerate), changing at manufacture's suggested (in this case, 3750)?

I try to give a good 5-10 minute warm up before I push past 3000 at all, and always light for the last 5ish minutes as well.

Right, to uncomplicate all that mess: those driving habits, GA climate (we've had maybe 1 frost thus far this year, and we'll probably only have true cold Dec->Feb), 3750 intervals, on an SR20DE with a couple mods --- Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic a good choice? I know I need a different filter, and I'm too embarassed to say what I've got now, suggestion there?

Not trying to hijack, Jesda. On your thing, I'd personally wonder about Walmart oil, but from what Fred's said, it sounds fine.

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PalmerWMD
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nametakennow wrote:1)Every time I read one of Fred's posts on this oil stuff I'm getting more of it, but I still don't get a lot of what you're saying, lol.

2)Anyways... kinda leads me to a question... from what you just said, Mobil 1 synthetic in a 10W-30 is good for somewhat rough lives (say, lots of short trips with occasional runs through back roads and a foot that likes to accellerate), changing at manufacture's suggested (in this case, 3750)?

3)I try to give a good 5-10 minute warm up before I push past 3000 at all, and always light for the last 5ish minutes as well.

4)Right, to uncomplicate all that mess: those driving habits, GA climate (we've had maybe 1 frost thus far this year, and we'll probably only have true cold Dec->Feb), 3750 intervals, on an SR20DE with a couple mods --- Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic a good choice? I know I need a different filter, and I'm too embarassed to say what I've got now, suggestion there?.
1) I suspect my typos arent helpfull..2)Yes One good thing about 10w-30 is it doesnt aspire to cover a huge viscosity spread so it uses less polymeric voiscosity index improvers than say a 5w-30, a group 4 syn like Mobil 1 uses none. and not too many in wider spreads. the less VII, the more stable an oil is.3)4)Yes, its one of a number of good applications out there but since GA is pretty miuld and you are NA a non syn would do fine as well like Durablend 10w-30 or or Chevron Supreme 10w-30. In summer and if your engine is hi mile maybe the 10w-40 versions.

Fred..

nametakennow
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You rock.

Not high mile, by the way, got her with 37k in August of '03, about 47k now, lol. But I will look in to see if there is a 10W-40 around in next summer.

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Rex
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Jesda wrote:Im thinking about using the SuperTech (Wal-Mart) full-synthetic 10w30 for the winter on my Q, changing every 1900 miles. I consider my duty cycle "very severe" with extremely short trips (less than a mile).

For seven quarts, its just under $21. Add $5.99 for a Bosch Premium filter. Any opinions on it?

-Jesda
Turn to your left, and ask the guy standing at the other end of the car, wearing the brown leather coat/blazer thing


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Mr1der
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what about jumping from dino to syn?

anything to it other then dumping in the oil and changing a filter?

andrave
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on the only car I tried synthetic on, it lost a lot more oil. 70k is too late to start. I might use it after I break in my new ka24de though.I used supertech a few times. I haven't used their synethetic, but when I use the regular super tech, when I take it out it is brown and frothy like a cappucino. I don't think thats good...

RBpoweredSileighty
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nametakennow wrote:Right, to uncomplicate all that mess: those driving habits, GA climate (we've had maybe 1 frost thus far this year, and we'll probably only have true cold Dec->Feb), 3750 intervals, on an SR20DE with a couple mods.
a lil off topic here but its pretty cold here in ATL. right now!

back on track,

what oil would you all recomend for my application... rb20det, not a daily driver but like to go fast when i do drive, in GA weather?

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PalmerWMD
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RB20det driven in a mild winter:Mobil 1 0w-40Valvoline SynPower 5w-40.Valvoline Durablend 10w-40

Fred..

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thank you Fred

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elwesso
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Fred repeats himself so much, i say we make an oil thread to end all oil thread

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PoorManQ45
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It has already been created:http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

I would like Fred's opinion on what those guys say. Are they knowledgable oil/lube people? Or are they just blow hards baffling people with bull$hit?

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Jesda
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Courtesy of my friends at dodgeintrepid.net:


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PoorManQ45
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So, It seems that Supertech is made by Pennzoil-Quaker State.

Good find Jesda

nametakennow
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Nismo240SX90 wrote:
a lil off topic here but its pretty cold here in ATL. right now!

back on track,

what oil would you all recomend for my application... rb20det, not a daily driver but like to go fast when i do drive, in GA weather?
It wasn't yet when I posted. Yeah, it's pretty cold all the sudden, but the SR is loving CAI-fed goodness once it warms up.

James- Change the filter and drain a little extra (try to get every possible drop out) when switching. Other than that, as long as the engine was broken in with dino poo (helps seals), you're clear, I believe.

RBpoweredSileighty
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nametakennow wrote:
It wasn't yet when I posted. Yeah, it's pretty cold all the sudden, but the SR is loving CAI-fed goodness once it warms up.
lol yea i was just messin with ya, but yes gotta luv the cold air for motors.

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skydragoness
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andrave wrote:on the only car I tried synthetic on, it lost a lot more oil.
Exact reason why i haven't gone to synthetic, i think on higher mileage cars ( i have 112k), that go short distances and get the occasional back-road/auto-x beating --Syn-blend is a good compromise. I've heard of people going full synthetic and new, magial oil leaks appear (perhaps going to a higher viscosity would be better?). When i first got my car i had it on Castrol high mileage (dino oil) with PureOne filters. I've since did some research and i currently run Mobil 1 Syn-blen high mileage formula with the Nissan OE filters. I'm thinking of going with Mobil 1 filters for my next oil change though. I've also been changing oil around every 2k now too.



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