Group IV base stock very stable.GoinBoostYey wrote:I just switched over to amsoil. Its nice.
There is some validity to this arguement it often comes up.As a matter of fdact non syn oils are currently the best they ever been.All Shell products are group 2+ as is Pennzoil, Quaker State and Chevron Supreme.Bubba1 wrote:Mind if I ask a dumb question? what's wrong with the oil that you're using now?
You're talking about changing your oil every 1900 (?!) miles, which is maybe 3 times more often than Nissan recommends,. As long as you're using the correct grade/viscosity as recommended by the manufacturer, why does it matter whether you use a grade 2 vs grade 3, or what brand. I've run all of my cars on old fashioned fossil (non-synthetic) oil, following the manufactuer's instructions. Never once have I had any engine problems on any car I've ever owned. And there were years that I comuted less than a mile.
I'll be disappointed if I get a "my baby is worth it" response. IMHO changing synthetic oil that often, is simply wasting money.
Fred, comments?
1) I suspect my typos arent helpfull..2)Yes One good thing about 10w-30 is it doesnt aspire to cover a huge viscosity spread so it uses less polymeric voiscosity index improvers than say a 5w-30, a group 4 syn like Mobil 1 uses none. and not too many in wider spreads. the less VII, the more stable an oil is.3)4)Yes, its one of a number of good applications out there but since GA is pretty miuld and you are NA a non syn would do fine as well like Durablend 10w-30 or or Chevron Supreme 10w-30. In summer and if your engine is hi mile maybe the 10w-40 versions.nametakennow wrote:1)Every time I read one of Fred's posts on this oil stuff I'm getting more of it, but I still don't get a lot of what you're saying, lol.
2)Anyways... kinda leads me to a question... from what you just said, Mobil 1 synthetic in a 10W-30 is good for somewhat rough lives (say, lots of short trips with occasional runs through back roads and a foot that likes to accellerate), changing at manufacture's suggested (in this case, 3750)?
3)I try to give a good 5-10 minute warm up before I push past 3000 at all, and always light for the last 5ish minutes as well.
4)Right, to uncomplicate all that mess: those driving habits, GA climate (we've had maybe 1 frost thus far this year, and we'll probably only have true cold Dec->Feb), 3750 intervals, on an SR20DE with a couple mods --- Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic a good choice? I know I need a different filter, and I'm too embarassed to say what I've got now, suggestion there?.
Turn to your left, and ask the guy standing at the other end of the car, wearing the brown leather coat/blazer thingJesda wrote:Im thinking about using the SuperTech (Wal-Mart) full-synthetic 10w30 for the winter on my Q, changing every 1900 miles. I consider my duty cycle "very severe" with extremely short trips (less than a mile).
For seven quarts, its just under $21. Add $5.99 for a Bosch Premium filter. Any opinions on it?
-Jesda
a lil off topic here but its pretty cold here in ATL. right now!nametakennow wrote:Right, to uncomplicate all that mess: those driving habits, GA climate (we've had maybe 1 frost thus far this year, and we'll probably only have true cold Dec->Feb), 3750 intervals, on an SR20DE with a couple mods.
It wasn't yet when I posted. Yeah, it's pretty cold all the sudden, but the SR is loving CAI-fed goodness once it warms up.Nismo240SX90 wrote:
a lil off topic here but its pretty cold here in ATL. right now!
back on track,
what oil would you all recomend for my application... rb20det, not a daily driver but like to go fast when i do drive, in GA weather?
lol yea i was just messin with ya, but yes gotta luv the cold air for motors.nametakennow wrote:
It wasn't yet when I posted. Yeah, it's pretty cold all the sudden, but the SR is loving CAI-fed goodness once it warms up.
Exact reason why i haven't gone to synthetic, i think on higher mileage cars ( i have 112k), that go short distances and get the occasional back-road/auto-x beating --Syn-blend is a good compromise. I've heard of people going full synthetic and new, magial oil leaks appear (perhaps going to a higher viscosity would be better?). When i first got my car i had it on Castrol high mileage (dino oil) with PureOne filters. I've since did some research and i currently run Mobil 1 Syn-blen high mileage formula with the Nissan OE filters. I'm thinking of going with Mobil 1 filters for my next oil change though. I've also been changing oil around every 2k now too.andrave wrote:on the only car I tried synthetic on, it lost a lot more oil.